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      01-28-2019, 07:54 PM   #45
tuzige
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Is it possible to tie the USB cable into the factory location? If I have to plug my phone in for carplay functionality, I don't want to be opening the glove box every time.
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      01-29-2019, 08:41 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuzige View Post
Is it possible to tie the USB cable into the factory location? If I have to plug my phone in for carplay functionality, I don't want to be opening the glove box every time.
It should be possible but I haven't done it myself. Go on aliexpress.com and search for "BMW USB adapter". Something like this:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/USB-...906995407.html

Pull out the USB/Aux jack from your car and check if that green Fakra plug looks like it will fit and is the correct male/female. But if you get that cable you'll also need a USB-A male to USB-A male adapter or cable to connect it to the Joying unit.

I saw this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/USB-...804175657.html

which has a USB-A male plug, and you can buy it without the port panel for $6.99 + $2.41 shipping, but it's for a VW so I'm not sure if the green Fakra plug is wired the same as BMWs.
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      02-15-2019, 10:54 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stubbie Blue View Post
Backup Camera

I also used a relay so that the camera doesn't draw current from the reverse lights.

However, when the engine is running I get wavy interference in the video. So I ordered a PAC CSS12 noise filter and will see if that helps.
UPDATE: I installed the noise filter but I also improved the ground by connecting the bolt next to the tail light to the main battery grounding point. There's no more interference but I'm not sure if the noise filter or grounding helped more.
Stubbie: BMW is using some sort of AC signal riding on the DC. A simple rectifier was all that was needed. I found one on Amazon for $10 and it solved the problem. You don't need a switching relay. click here
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      02-17-2019, 06:21 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doane2u View Post
Stubbie: BMW is using some sort of AC signal riding on the DC. A simple rectifier was all that was needed. I found one on Amazon for $10 and it solved the problem. You don't need a switching relay. click here
That's good to know. I don't really know much about electronics but perhaps the PAC CSS12 noise filter that I used also does the job of a rectifier?
https://www.amazon.com/PAC-CSS12-Pas...dp/B000CEDZBA/
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      02-17-2019, 10:55 PM   #49
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Did a DIY walk through on my camera install for my 2012 135i convertible E88 but it may help others wanting a camera with out costing a lot and involving a lot of complicated install labor.
See it here

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      02-18-2019, 02:23 PM   #50
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How did it fail? Black with yellow guide lines?

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Originally Posted by jamespaoli View Post
Bump + Update

So i finally have everything working.... after going crazy and pulling my teeth out the root cause was i had been sent 2 faulty cameras and the third one worked... After this incident i probably wouldnt reccomend the Weivision camera and go with the Liebmaya or something else that fits the OEM handle...

SO MUCH APPRECIATION TO THE PO! Stubbieblue has been incredible, answering my noobie emails and questions night and day

(if you are super noob like me you may have questions)

THANKS STUBBIE! IM 100%....

P.S - I will bother you one last time for programming, i got my steering wheel working and bluetooth set up but any reccomendations for maps to work? Apps? carplay? etc Or tell me how you set up yours and ill mimic it
Hi James,

I was wondering what happened when it failed? I had the whole thing working well doing just a 'dry fit'. But then when did the actual install and ran the car, I was getting static, and now when I put the car in reverse, all I get is a black screen with the yellow guide marks. Was that how it failed on yours? I'm just trying to narrow down if it's the camera, the wiring, or something else. Thanks

Last edited by Lowerfredrick; 02-18-2019 at 02:30 PM..
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      02-18-2019, 02:55 PM   #51
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Wiring for filter

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stubbie Blue View Post
That's good to know. I don't really know much about electronics but perhaps the PAC CSS12 noise filter that I used also does the job of a rectifier?
https://www.amazon.com/PAC-CSS12-Pas...dp/B000CEDZBA/
Hi Stubbie,

Your thread was invaluable to doing the deed. Wasn't easy, but the Joying unit is nice. One question though: The rear back up camera worked fine until the car was running. I ordered the filter you suggested but I'm not sure how to wire it in. Is there any chance you could show/sketch how this is integrated into the wiring? Thank you. You've done some great work for the BMW community.
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      02-18-2019, 05:41 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowerfredrick View Post
Hi Stubbie,

Your thread was invaluable to doing the deed. Wasn't easy, but the Joying unit is nice. One question though: The rear back up camera worked fine until the car was running. I ordered the filter you suggested but I'm not sure how to wire it in. Is there any chance you could show/sketch how this is integrated into the wiring? Thank you. You've done some great work for the BMW community.
Sure I updated the original post to show how the PAC CSS12 is wired in.

But apparently, according to doane2u, you just need a rectifier and don't even need a relay.

By the way, jamespaoli did PM me with the same problem like you: black screen with only guide marks in reverse with car running.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stubbie Blue View Post
I drew in the PAC CSS12 noise filter and additional ground wire and updated the photo.

You have to disconnect the backup cam red wire from the relay (yellow wire on mine) and insert the PAC CSS12 in between them.

The PAC CSS12 has 3 wires:
The red input wire connects to the 87 yellow wire from the relay
The blue filtered output wire connects to the red backup cam wire
The black wire connects to the grounding point

I also used a wire to connect the grounding bolt next to the lights to the main grounding point below that the battery negative is also connected to.
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      02-18-2019, 07:18 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowerfredrick View Post
Hi James,

I was wondering what happened when it failed? I had the whole thing working well doing just a 'dry fit'. But then when did the actual install and ran the car, I was getting static, and now when I put the car in reverse, all I get is a black screen with the yellow guide marks. Was that how it failed on yours? I'm just trying to narrow down if it's the camera, the wiring, or something else. Thanks
I pointed that out in several threads and the DIY install I linked to above. With the German cars you are going to need an isolation unit between the power and your camera. You can do this by using a relay, but a much easier way is to use a rectifier that blocks the BMW signal riding on the DC that is causing the static and black screen.
The one I used is the Dasaita 12V DC Power Relay Capacitor Filter Rectifier that sells on Amazon for about $10 with shipping.

You just wire it in between the camera plus and negative and the cars reverse plus wire and the negative ground wire.... very easy. If you are getting separate power for the front screen from power there, you will probably need to do the same thing.
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      02-19-2019, 03:48 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowerfredrick View Post
Hi James,

I was wondering what happened when it failed? I had the whole thing working well doing just a 'dry fit'. But then when did the actual install and ran the car, I was getting static, and now when I put the car in reverse, all I get is a black screen with the yellow guide marks. Was that how it failed on yours? I'm just trying to narrow down if it's the camera, the wiring, or something else. Thanks
Hey sorry guys i have been very busy with work and now dealing with my car needing a jump to start...

Lowerfredrick: My issue was when going into reverse the screen would trigger to the reverse cam with the yellow lines/black screen, would never turn on video.. I triple checked all my wiring and made sure it was EXACTLY the way stubbie has shown.

I replaced my camera 2 or 3 times, and re-wired/replaced my relay as well. I performed the test that stubbie also says where you can use the camera in wire directly to the back of the unit.

My issue was solved overall being a faulty camera, i did also connect the 2 previous cameras and use it on a TV and it still didnt show video, confirming the 2 previous cameras were dead.

I would triple check your wiring, try your camera on a TV or using the camera-in port on the headunit... If you have a volt meter you can test the power wire to the camera to see if it is getting voltage too...
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      02-19-2019, 03:53 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowerfredrick View Post
Hi James,

I was wondering what happened when it failed? I had the whole thing working well doing just a 'dry fit'. But then when did the actual install and ran the car, I was getting static, and now when I put the car in reverse, all I get is a black screen with the yellow guide marks. Was that how it failed on yours? I'm just trying to narrow down if it's the camera, the wiring, or something else. Thanks
Hey replying again, if it worked while doing a dry fit i wonder when you snaked the cable from inside the trunk to the reverse camera if you teared/frayed? I would test the power cable for the camera from the relay and possible put a tap on the power wire above the relay(near the camera)and test it there too
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      04-28-2019, 09:13 AM   #56
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Name:  Screenshot_20190428-034235_WhatsApp_resized[3455].jpg
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Size:  206.5 KB Hey I was wondering if anyone had issues with the bmw chimes ie seatbelt chime low fuel etc. I fitted a new head unit and now my bmw chimes have changed to a really annoying beep/buzz. has anyone got a solution on how to get the original chimes back, the chimes used to come out the speakers but now it sounds like they come from the tacho/spedo is it a possible wiring issue or did i need to code something. everything appears to work. speakers. mic . steering wheel controlls , reverse camera etc its just the chimes thats the issue.

I know the unit I have is different to this guide but Ive tried searching for my specific issue with my specific head unit and found nothing.

the head unit i have is from eresin.

many thanks
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      04-28-2019, 12:49 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spitfire148 View Post
Hey I was wondering if anyone had issues with the bmw chimes ie seatbelt chime low fuel etc. I fitted a new head unit and now my bmw chimes have changed to a really annoying beep/buzz. has anyone got a solution on how to get the original chimes back, the chimes used to come out the speakers but now it sounds like they come from the tacho/spedo is it a possible wiring issue or did i need to code something. everything appears to work. speakers. mic . steering wheel controlls , reverse camera etc its just the chimes thats the issue.

I know the unit I have is different to this guide but Ive tried searching for my specific issue with my specific head unit and found nothing.

the head unit i have is from eresin.

many thanks
The chimes are sent over the CAN bus and your Eresin headunit appears to have a built-in CAN bus decoder so it is playing the chimes. You can check on the headunit if there are any options to configure the chimes but I doubt it.

I'm using the PAC RadioPro for chimes and they just copied the BMW sounds. It also hooks up to directly to the chime speaker under the steering wheel.
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      04-28-2019, 01:16 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stubbie Blue View Post
The chimes are sent over the CAN bus and your Eresin headunit appears to have a built-in CAN bus decoder so it is playing the chimes. You can check on the headunit if there are any options to configure the chimes but I doubt it.

I'm using the PAC RadioPro for chimes and they just copied the BMW sounds. It also hooks up to directly to the chime speaker under the steering wheel.

thanks for the reply, so im guessing the anoying beep is erisins version of a chime and they cant be changed. ive checked every setting within the unit from factory settings to canbus settings and there doesnt appear to be any options to change this. the PAC RadioPro is that something i could add to my car to resolve this ?
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      04-28-2019, 01:36 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spitfire148 View Post
thanks for the reply, so im guessing the anoying beep is erisins version of a chime and they cant be changed. ive checked every setting within the unit from factory settings to canbus settings and there doesnt appear to be any options to change this. the PAC RadioPro is that something i could add to my car to resolve this ?
I guess it's possible for you to use a RadioPro, but you would have to splice in all the wires like the harness picture in my original post, and I'm not sure if your Erisin headunit will take the steering control output from the RadioPro. In short, I don't think it's practical.
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      04-28-2019, 01:55 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stubbie Blue View Post
I guess it's possible for you to use a RadioPro, but you would have to splice in all the wires like the harness picture in my original post, and I'm not sure if your Erisin headunit will take the steering control output from the RadioPro. In short, I don't think it's practical.
Ok thanks, yeah if it was plug and play it might be worth a shot but if im having to dig into wires for a maybe it might work then i think ill just put up with the annoying sounds, i guess as long as there working then thats the main thing i haven't lost anything.
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      05-26-2019, 10:39 PM   #61
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I seriously can't get the PAC to work with the steering wheel controls. I have no clue what I'm doing wront
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      05-27-2019, 01:36 AM   #62
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Also, if anyone has figured out how to turn off the god awful beep when you press the volume/home controls on the left side of the unit, that'd be great lol
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      05-27-2019, 01:00 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HyeWarrior View Post
I seriously can't get the PAC to work with the steering wheel controls. I have no clue what I'm doing wront
See this post by me to someone else who was also having trouble with the SWC. The DIP switches on the RadioPro need to be set to Pioneer/other before powering it on. If it still doesn't work, post back with more details.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stubbie Blue View Post
Make sure the DIP switches are set on the RadioPro before you power it up. If you try to change it while it is on, it won't work properly. Just unplug the power wires, set the switches and plug it back in to restart it.

Leave the RadioPro on the default Pioneer programming in the beginning to test it, and you can customize it later. When you press a button on the steering wheel the red light on the RadioPro should come on. Then on the Joying SWC screen, some of the numbers should change to like 50 or something, and you can assign it to a function while still holding down the button.

If that doesn't work, check the wire (blue/yellow from RadioPro to brown wire of Joying) or try restarting the Joying headunit (swipe down from top and the middle icon I think).
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      05-27-2019, 01:11 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HyeWarrior View Post
Also, if anyone has figured out how to turn off the god awful beep when you press the volume/home controls on the left side of the unit, that'd be great lol
Settings - Device - Sound - Keypad Tone Off
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      05-28-2019, 02:40 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stubbie Blue View Post
See this post by me to someone else who was also having trouble with the SWC. The DIP switches on the RadioPro need to be set to Pioneer/other before powering it on. If it still doesn't work, post back with more details.
I have a feeling I'm still doing something wrong here, so forgive me. Unplugged the PAC, replugged it in with the DIP switches in the 'Pioneer/other' setting. Open the SWC menu on the headhunt, hold the program button for a couple of seconds on the PAC, press volume up on the steering wheel (at the same time pressing the volume up switch in the SWC of the headunit?), and then leave it to get out of programming mode. I did this as a test and it still didn't work. I haven't hooked up the chime wires yet, but I doubt that has anything to do with it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stubbie Blue View Post
Settings - Device - Sound - Keypad Tone Off
Got it, thank you!

Two more questions:
1. Theres a persistent buzz/static noise. It only goes away when I put the volume at completely zero. I can vaguely hear it when I'm actually playing music.

2. Also, for the reverse camera, I tapped the wires for the rear tail lights, but for the power wire off the RCA yellow cable coming to the headunit, does it matter where you tap the power wire?


Again, thank you so much for helping out
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      05-29-2019, 08:47 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HyeWarrior View Post
I have a feeling I'm still doing something wrong here, so forgive me. Unplugged the PAC, replugged it in with the DIP switches in the 'Pioneer/other' setting. Open the SWC menu on the headhunt, hold the program button for a couple of seconds on the PAC, press volume up on the steering wheel (at the same time pressing the volume up switch in the SWC of the headunit?), and then leave it to get out of programming mode. I did this as a test and it still didn't work. I haven't hooked up the chime wires yet, but I doubt that has anything to do with it.


Got it, thank you!

Two more questions:
1. Theres a persistent buzz/static noise. It only goes away when I put the volume at completely zero. I can vaguely hear it when I'm actually playing music.

2. Also, for the reverse camera, I tapped the wires for the rear tail lights, but for the power wire off the RCA yellow cable coming to the headunit, does it matter where you tap the power wire?


Again, thank you so much for helping out
Programming the RadioPro and programming the headunit are actually two separate things.

First you should reset your RadioPro by holding the program button until the LED starts blinking, then release.

To start programming, press the program button on the RadioPro (all buttons are short presses from here on) and you will have 7 seconds to press each steering wheel button in the order specified under 'Optional Programming Order, Pioneer' in the RadioPro manual. If you don't press the SWC button within 7 seconds, it will end the programming process and you'll have to start again.

This is how I did it:
1. Volume +
2. Volume -
3. skip by pressing the program button on the RadioPro
4. skip
5. skip
6. Source
7. Track +
8. Track -
9. skip
10. skip
11. Phone
12. Recirculation
13. Voice Command
You can now wait 7 seconds for the programming to end. The LED will flash 3 times.

Now you can program the headunit by going into the SWC menu. Hold down the steering wheel button that you want to program and at the same time, tap the function on the screen that you want to assign it to. Besides the obvious ones, I mapped the recirculation button to start the navigation app.

For your other questions:
1. I'm not sure because I also changed my amp and speakers. You may need to use a power filter on the power wire from the battery to the headunit.

2. There are different ways to use that wire alongside the RCA. In my setup, the reverse lights switch on the relay to power up the backup camera. The wire alongside the RCA is actually on the same circuit as the backup camera positive wire for my particular camera, so the wire gets powered up as well. It then carries power up to the front, and since it's connected to the Joying's orange wire reverse cam trigger input, the power signal will trigger the screen to switch to the backup cam view.
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