BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      02-01-2018, 04:14 AM   #23
Gangplank
Colonel
Gangplank's Avatar
United_States
1334
Rep
2,798
Posts

Drives: 2011 e82 135i n55 Sprt DCT - S
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Port St. Lucie, FL

iTrader: (1)

Garage List
2011 135i  [0.00]
Belts are a wear item but I'd expect it should go 5years or 100k mi. That said they often get changed before that due to a leaking OFHG and squeaky belt/tensioner. Oil from the OFHG leaks on the belt and tensioner and causes a squeak (or better described as a chirping) sound at idle.
__________________
2011 135i DCT | Sport pkg | Ohlins R&T swift sprigns | M3 front arms | Diff. brace | RSFB inserts.
Appreciate 0
      02-01-2018, 06:18 AM   #24
02Pilot
Malcontent
02Pilot's Avatar
185
Rep
302
Posts

Drives: 128i
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: NY

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by bung206 View Post
Here are photos of my tensioner. I didn't find any damage on any of the other pulleys.

In addition to the slightly melted pulley, there is a rubber o-ring in between the bolt that goes into the engine and the engine block itself. That had completely dried out and was brittle like plastic. Fell to shreds as soon as I took off the tensioner. Not sure if that was the cause or what.
Those pulleys look rough. The one is scored, and the other one is melted, which is just bizarre. How do the bearings in those pulleys feel? Rough? Any binding? Any play?
__________________
Life's tough. It's tougher when you're stupid. -John Wayne
Appreciate 1
Dackelone9481.00

      02-01-2018, 07:49 AM   #25
mr.fabulous
Captain
mr.fabulous's Avatar
192
Rep
890
Posts

Drives: Women Crazy
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Florida Gulf Coast

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by bung206 View Post
There’s nothing to it man. I was really concerned when I did mine but it was easy. Just need patience. Don’t force anything (too much).

- remove upper intake pipes
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lement/Hm4jdid

- if you have DCT, remove under body protection
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ement/AlpHh5nD

- remove the single torx screw that holds on the transmission cooler
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lement/HEzhiPa

- remove the screw at the top left of the radiator fan (as you face the car), unplug the power connector and pull up to remove. Pay special attention to the various clips. There is one clip on the opposite end of where the torx screw is about halfway down. One which clips into the cowling and the other which clips into one of the intercooler pipes.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lement/HEzhiPa
So no need to be under the car if 6MT... right?
__________________
2011 135i MSport 6MT AW/black, 72Kmiles, bone stock, moneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoney I LOVE THIS CAR
Appreciate 0
      02-01-2018, 10:14 AM   #26
OkieSnuffBox
Lieutenant
287
Rep
408
Posts

Drives: '13 135i
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: OKC, OK

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gangplank View Post
Belts are a wear item but I'd expect it should go 5years or 100k mi. That said they often get changed before that due to a leaking OFHG and squeaky belt/tensioner. Oil from the OFHG leaks on the belt and tensioner and causes a squeak (or better described as a chirping) sound at idle.
This is what my local indie shop told me before I picked up the car.

Had him flush the brakes and change the oil Monday, he said everything is bone dry so I'm not going to worry about it at the moment.
Appreciate 0
      02-01-2018, 11:53 AM   #27
KNS
Lieutenant
130
Rep
439
Posts

Drives: 128i and Porsche
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Arizona

iTrader: (0)

I noticed on those kits that there aren’t any bolts included. Don’t you need to replace the bolts with this job? Have done it many times on my E46 (which is a piece of cake) but not yet on my 128.

Edit: I see that bolts do come with the kits...

Last edited by KNS; 02-01-2018 at 12:55 PM..
Appreciate 1
Dackelone9481.00

      02-01-2018, 06:11 PM   #28
mr.fabulous
Captain
mr.fabulous's Avatar
192
Rep
890
Posts

Drives: Women Crazy
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Florida Gulf Coast

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox View Post
This is what my local indie shop told me before I picked up the car.

Had him flush the brakes and change the oil Monday, he said everything is bone dry so I'm not going to worry about it at the moment.
https://blog.bavauto.com/17239/bmw-n...ting-subframe/

(shared here without permission)
__________________
2011 135i MSport 6MT AW/black, 72Kmiles, bone stock, moneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoney I LOVE THIS CAR
Appreciate 0
      02-02-2018, 10:11 AM   #29
OkieSnuffBox
Lieutenant
287
Rep
408
Posts

Drives: '13 135i
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: OKC, OK

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.fabulous View Post
My '13 only has 27k miles at the moment. I'll probably have it changed before I start doing any HPDEs with it though.
Appreciate 0
      02-02-2018, 10:46 AM   #30
MightyMouseTech
Major General
MightyMouseTech's Avatar
3627
Rep
5,618
Posts

Drives: 13 135i 6MT LeMans Blue MSport
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Ottawa, Canada

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by bung206 View Post
Here are photos of my tensioner. I didn't find any damage on any of the other pulleys.

In addition to the slightly melted pulley, there is a rubber o-ring in between the bolt that goes into the engine and the engine block itself. That had completely dried out and was brittle like plastic. Fell to shreds as soon as I took off the tensioner. Not sure if that was the cause or what.
Holy crap. Looks like the pulley was rubbing against the block or something.
Appreciate 0
      02-02-2018, 06:29 PM   #31
Dackelone
European Editor
Dackelone's Avatar
Germany
9481
Rep
23,014
Posts

Drives: N54 e82
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Bayern, Germany

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys,

I sent a PM to CRP Automotive - to ask for the correct kit for a 135i N54.


The correct CONTITECH Drive Belt Kit for a N54 135i is: ContiTech ADK0050P


__________________
Appreciate 0
      02-02-2018, 07:44 PM   #32
YearOneOne
Captain
YearOneOne's Avatar
354
Rep
769
Posts

Drives: 13 135i mineral grey
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Maryland

iTrader: (1)

cheaper kit including 4 pulleys for n55

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...1287582946kt2/

And n54

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...t/n54acbeltkt/
Appreciate 1
Dackelone9481.00

      02-03-2018, 12:54 AM   #33
tock172
Beachtown Bill Collector
tock172's Avatar
United_States
565
Rep
1,059
Posts

Drives: 2012 135i
Join Date: May 2011
Location: San Diego

iTrader: (1)

Garage List
2012 BMW 135i  [0.00]
1999 Lexus LS400  [0.00]
1985 BMW 325e  [0.00]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Don't worry... my car also squeaks at idle.
Likewise, and my 2011 N55 made an identical sound as well. Whatever.

As far as belts getting sucked into the engine around the crank, I have heard this is an issue isolated to the N54. My independent mechanic has seen it more than a few times now.

Any more data on that?
__________________


2012 BMW 135i Space Grey Metallic M-Sport DCT Dinan S2
Appreciate 0
      02-03-2018, 08:30 AM   #34
mr.fabulous
Captain
mr.fabulous's Avatar
192
Rep
890
Posts

Drives: Women Crazy
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Florida Gulf Coast

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by bung206 View Post
- remove the screw at the top left of the radiator fan (as you face the car), unplug the power connector and pull up to remove. Pay special attention to the various clips. There is one clip on the opposite end of where the torx screw is about halfway down. One which clips into the cowling and the other which clips into one of the intercooler pipes.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lement/HEzhiPa
picture caption says "Release charge air duct (1) from rubber mount (2) on fan cowl." Any advise on how to do that would really help, I am stuck.
__________________
2011 135i MSport 6MT AW/black, 72Kmiles, bone stock, moneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoney I LOVE THIS CAR
Appreciate 0
      02-03-2018, 01:23 PM   #35
ndfan
Enlisted Member
19
Rep
46
Posts

Drives: 128i m-sport
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Virginia

iTrader: (0)

I heard of the same issues with the 128i/N52, so a couple weeks ago, I changed my idler pulley, tensioner pulley, and serpentine belt as my car is approaching 60k miles.

While it's admittedly a plug for an ad I posted here, I also wanted to flag for others reading these posts that I have new in-the-box OEM tensioner pulleys for sale for less than the retail price here at this link:
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1463178

An order mistake resulted in me getting more pulleys than the one I intended to order for the swap I mentioned earlier. I'd merely like to get some money out of them but also clear them off my parts shelf. Thanks.
Appreciate 0
      02-03-2018, 06:03 PM   #36
bung206
Enlisted Member
24
Rep
49
Posts

Drives: E82 135i MSPORT
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Australia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 02Pilot View Post
Those pulleys look rough. The one is scored, and the other one is melted, which is just bizarre. How do the bearings in those pulleys feel? Rough? Any binding? Any play?
Nope! They all seem smooth as butter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.fabulous View Post
So no need to be under the car if 6MT... right?
Correct. Only DCT have the transmission cooler which is secured to the bottom of the radiator with a single torx screw.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.fabulous View Post
picture caption says "Release charge air duct (1) from rubber mount (2) on fan cowl." Any advise on how to do that would really help, I am stuck.
First of all (if you have the DCT) ensure you’ve unscrewed the torx screw at the bottom of the fan cowling to release the transmission cooler.

Then, put a large flathead screwdriver thru the opening on the rubber piece. Put it in sideways so it goes in with no resistance. Then turn it 90 degrees and simultaneously pull up on the fan, taking care not to over stress anything. The rubber piece is attached to the fan cowling, and clips in to the “charge air” piping.

Make sure you’ve released the plastic clip that is just above that rubber piece as well.
Appreciate 0
      02-03-2018, 06:10 PM   #37
mr.fabulous
Captain
mr.fabulous's Avatar
192
Rep
890
Posts

Drives: Women Crazy
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Florida Gulf Coast

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by bung206 View Post
Then, put a large flathead screwdriver thru the opening on the rubber piece. Put it in sideways so it goes in with no resistance. Then turn it 90 degrees and simultaneously pull up on the fan, taking care not to over stress anything. The rubber piece is attached to the fan cowling, and clips in to the “charge air” piping.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lement/HEzhiPa

Sorry if I'm being dumb. Put a flathead screwdriver in to the slot, crank it clockwise, and pull up? That might make sense (and I clearly need a longer screwdriver). How do I get it back together?
__________________
2011 135i MSport 6MT AW/black, 72Kmiles, bone stock, moneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoneymoney I LOVE THIS CAR
Appreciate 0
      02-03-2018, 06:13 PM   #38
bung206
Enlisted Member
24
Rep
49
Posts

Drives: E82 135i MSPORT
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Australia

iTrader: (0)

You push it in of course. Don’t be afraid to force it a little so long as you have ensured it’s not catching on anything. Don’t get frustrated and pull.

Also take care when working on the tensioner. you’re working right in front of the radiator so be careful not to ram wrenches or scewdrivers or anything into it to damage the fins and cause a coolant leak.
Appreciate 0
      02-03-2018, 08:52 PM   #39
KNS
Lieutenant
130
Rep
439
Posts

Drives: 128i and Porsche
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Arizona

iTrader: (0)

^^ Put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator.
Appreciate 1
Dackelone9481.00

      02-04-2018, 04:23 PM   #40
Dackelone
European Editor
Dackelone's Avatar
Germany
9481
Rep
23,014
Posts

Drives: N54 e82
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Bayern, Germany

iTrader: (1)

Someone should take some pics and make a DIY thread for the forum.
__________________
Appreciate 0
      02-07-2018, 10:03 AM   #41
olds350
Needs a long road trip...
United_States
301
Rep
516
Posts

Drives: '11 e91, '13 e88, '19 golf R
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: NC

iTrader: (0)

Just received my 2 belt kits from ECS, one for my 128 and one the wifes e91. I think I know what I'm doing this weekend...
Appreciate 0
      02-07-2018, 12:57 PM   #42
YearOneOne
Captain
YearOneOne's Avatar
354
Rep
769
Posts

Drives: 13 135i mineral grey
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Maryland

iTrader: (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by olds350 View Post
Just received my 2 belt kits from ECS, one for my 128 and one the wifes e91. I think I know what I'm doing this weekend...
Do mine too!!
Appreciate 0
      02-07-2018, 12:59 PM   #43
YearOneOne
Captain
YearOneOne's Avatar
354
Rep
769
Posts

Drives: 13 135i mineral grey
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Maryland

iTrader: (1)

I want to do mine while it's stored up but I check and it seems fine but I'm at 55k and I'm torn. What do you guys think?
Appreciate 0
      02-07-2018, 05:17 PM   #44
HyeWarrior
Major
681
Rep
1,076
Posts

Drives: 2012 135i DCT
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: San Dimas, CA

iTrader: (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by YearOneOne View Post
I want to do mine while it's stored up but I check and it seems fine but I'm at 55k and I'm torn. What do you guys think?
Personally I wouldn’t do it unless a belt or pulley need to be replaced
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:46 AM.




1addicts
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST