EVO 8 to 135i

[madaz07]

Is that 1M from around the caloundra area I keep seeing a white one

[elburbs]

Originally Posted by koastal

Yes Evo's were both modified - Autronic / ohlins etc etc

135 is a great daily and just as good on the weekend

Torque everywhere / good fuel economy / girls like u more

N55 with DCT only requires a JB4 and downpipe to have similiar performance to FBO N54

I was under the impression n54s outperformed n55s mod-for-mod ???

but either way, it looked like a good run!

If the car was daily and i had to go auto i'd def get a n55 (dct), but as a weekend car, i am really only interested in a stick ~

Love the 1m too, if only i had the money for it haha

[vtl]

Originally Posted by elburbs

I was under the impression n54s outperformed n55s mod-for-mod ???

but either way, it looked like a good run!

If the car was daily and i had to go auto i'd def get a n55 (dct), but as a weekend car, i am really only interested in a stick ~

Love the 1m too, if only i had the money for it haha

Yes, mod for mod N55 are less powerful than N54s. The ecu flash tuning is much more mature for N54 as well, piggybacks tend to have inconsistent power (autotuning maps) or jerky driveability sometimes.

Another thing to consider when purchasing a manual transmission is the clutch. Most of the time, the stock clutch will hold FBO power. But its hit and miss depending on the car and sometimes the pressure plate will not have enough clamping force to hold the power and will slip under the increased power. A new clutch and dual mass flywheel is bloody expensive (mine cost around $1500 in parts) so its something to keep in mind. Jan 09+ cars have a different flywheel and that is even MORE expensive

[koastal]

Originally Posted by elburbs

I was under the impression n54s outperformed n55s mod-for-mod ???

yeah - nah
I went the N55 cos of my experience with twin scroll turbos from evo days

go the manual if you want be slower. Driving stick isnt that much of a skill. My 21 year old daughter can heel and toe half the "purists" cant. Learn left foot braking, thats a skill

N55 dont overheat at the drop of a hat and sound better

[dh58]

Originally Posted by koastal

yeah - nah
I went the N55 cos of my experience with twin scroll turbos from evo days

go the manual if you want be slower. Driving stick isnt that much of a skill. My 21 year old daughter can heel and toe half the "purists" cant. Learn left foot braking, thats a skill

N55 dont overheat at the drop of a hat and sound better

Good luck with that

[mcmn]

Originally Posted by koastal

yeah - nah
I went the N55 cos of my experience with twin scroll turbos from evo days

go the manual if you want be slower. Driving stick isnt that much of a skill. My 21 year old daughter can heel and toe half the "purists" cant. Learn left foot braking, thats a skill

N55 dont overheat at the drop of a hat and sound better

Seriously???

[elburbs]

lol so many wrongs in 1 comment haha

[koastal]

[QUOTE=mcmn;19420401[/QUOTE]


Ok was trolling a bit

You confirming you cant heel and toe ? I can get my kids to teach u if u like

You obviously havent had your N54 to the track, otherwise you would know about overheating.

[dh58]

Originally Posted by koastal

Ok was trolling a bit

You confirming you cant heel and toe ? I can get my kids to teach u if u like

You obviously havent had your N54 to the track, otherwise you would know about overheating.

lol have you?

[elburbs]

okay guys so i ended up selling my EVO8 a couple of weeks ago. i had an offer i couldnt refuse.

now im in the market for a 135i, but honestly in melb its quite limited (for manuals). im also reading up on forums such as this one as well as floating around on fb groups and tbh im getting a little worried about the 135i platform. it seems the issues are expensive and pop up anytime they want?

spark plugs and water pump are obvious maintenance items so thats no big issue. also 3rd brake light/seatbelt sensors are knit picky

also anyone heard of the sticky accelerator throttle (wtf !?)

lastly just wanted to know issues such as hpfp, coil packs, injectors, vanos - are they all OEM parts, can you purchase after market ones?? (cheaper if not at least stronger?)

is there anything else i missed?? lol.. and do issues occuring have anything to do with cars that are modded or stock?

i actually wouldnt mind a n55 either but they are still out of my price range (also none in Vic in manual).

[PG]

Originally Posted by elburbs

okay guys so i ended up selling my EVO8 a couple of weeks ago. i had an offer i couldnt refuse.

now im in the market for a 135i, but honestly in melb its quite limited (for manuals). im also reading up on forums such as this one as well as floating around on fb groups and tbh im getting a little worried about the 135i platform. it seems the issues are expensive and pop up anytime they want?

spark plugs and water pump are obvious maintenance items so thats no big issue. also 3rd brake light/seatbelt sensors are knit picky

also anyone heard of the sticky accelerator throttle (wtf !?)

lastly just wanted to know issues such as hpfp, coil packs, injectors, vanos - are they all OEM parts, can you purchase after market ones?? (cheaper if not at least stronger?)

is there anything else i missed?? lol..

i actually wouldnt mind a n55 either but they are still out of my price range (also none in Vic in manual).

hey mate I know im being obvious, but just be picky and pick a car with all that stuff done. It's what I did, and try and get a car off this forum, or at least an enthusiast. People that have these as loan cars under BMW warranty are the ones that you need to watch out for.

If you're unsure, get someone at BMW run the VIN to see what its had done. When mine was run through their program, it had new injectors, HPFP, waterpump/TS, clutch/flywheel, turboes all done under warranty already.

[vtl]

Originally Posted by elburbs

okay guys so i ended up selling my EVO8 a couple of weeks ago. i had an offer i couldnt refuse.

now im in the market for a 135i, but honestly in melb its quite limited (for manuals). im also reading up on forums such as this one as well as floating around on fb groups and tbh im getting a little worried about the 135i platform. it seems the issues are expensive and pop up anytime they want?

spark plugs and water pump are obvious maintenance items so thats no big issue. also 3rd brake light/seatbelt sensors are knit picky

also anyone heard of the sticky accelerator throttle (wtf !?)

lastly just wanted to know issues such as hpfp, coil packs, injectors, vanos - are they all OEM parts, can you purchase after market ones?? (cheaper if not at least stronger?)

is there anything else i missed?? lol.. and do issues occuring have anything to do with cars that are modded or stock?

i actually wouldnt mind a n55 either but they are still out of my price range (also none in Vic in manual).

They not cheap cars to run but they're not too bad. The earliest 135is were 2008 and in my opinion are more reliable than the 2006-2007 335is. Only thing that has been expensive for me was the new clutch and flywheel (~$1500 for a DIY install).

HPFP seems to be fixed on the latest revision, don't hear too much complaining and all the threads seem to be from ages ago.

Coilpacks, Bosch ones are only $45 each, just get a full set and you won't have to worry about it for another 7 years or so.

VANOS solenoids you can get chinese ones for really really cheap off ebay, but I didn't want to gamble it and just bought genuine ones off schmeidmann. Theyre not that expensive, $300 for the pair

Injectors are super expensive and the only thing i'd worry about along with turbos. If you can find a car that already has fresh ones then its a plus.

Never heard of a sticky accelerator until recently, doubt its a common problem.

Factor in the cost of a clutch if you are going FBO. Sometimes the stock clutch holds fine and people don't have issues with it even with E85. Some people have had to replace the clutch low low kms as the stock pressure plate doesn't have enough clamping force. In my case the clutch was slipping and was worn out after 142k kms. I went with a BMW 550i clutch and new dual mass flywheel, has more holding power and drives like stock.

[elburbs]

Originally Posted by PG

hey mate I know im being obvious, but just be picky and pick a car with all that stuff done. It's what I did, and try and get a car off this forum, or at least an enthusiast. People that have these as loan cars under BMW warranty are the ones that you need to watch out for.

If you're unsure, get someone at BMW run the VIN to see what its had done. When mine was run through their program, it had new injectors, HPFP, waterpump/TS, clutch/flywheel, turboes all done under warranty already.

Cheers, I'll def look into doing that and give bmw a call.

another question, once these issues have been addressed, are they replaced with updated and improved parts OR the same original parts that were prone to failing ?

[PG]

Originally Posted by elburbs

Cheers, I'll def look into doing that and give bmw a call.

another question, once these issues have been addressed, are they replaced with updated and improved parts OR the same original parts that were prone to failing ?

BMW has updated most parts, and the waterpump and HPFP have both had a lot of revisions. Look on RealOEM and plug in a part number and see which revision its on haha

also I doubt you could call BMW directly, I just have a friend that works for their IT department.

Good luck mate! Mines been super reliable in 14thousand km and 2 track events. I'm coming from a bulletproof Honda though, so I'm constantly worried however

[martymil]

Well I had the sticky accelerator and i'm not the only one.

These are fitted to many bmw and share the same part number from 2006 - 2011 from memory, its a cheap fix.

Do a search on google as there has been a few cases and a bulletin released on it.

if there wasn't a problem with it why did bmw change the design.

last time I checked they where 120 usd

I came from an evo x to a 135 to a 1M and I love the cars, they have their problems
just like evos do.

[elburbs]

Originally Posted by martymil

Well I had the sticky accelerator and i'm not the only one.
I came from an evo x to a 135 to a 1M and I love the cars, they have their problems
just like evos do.

do you find the car more fun than the EVO X? and is your car a daily ?

Originally Posted by vtl

Injectors are super expensive and the only thing i'd worry about along with turbos. If you can find a car that already has fresh ones then its a plus.

Factor in the cost of a clutch if you are going FBO. Sometimes the stock clutch holds fine and people don't have issues with it even with E85. Some people have had to replace the clutch low low kms as the stock pressure plate doesn't have enough clamping force. In my case the clutch was slipping and was worn out after 142k kms. I went with a BMW 550i clutch and new dual mass flywheel, has more holding power and drives like stock.

Is there no after market injectors / turbos you could get that are if not cheaper, at least more durable/better quality?

i can see from your sig youre not standard, did you have your mods for a large portion of those kms? n do you think mods increases chances of parts failing like injectors/turbos/hpfp plugs etc?
142k kms is pretty good.. I don't know anyone with an evo that has gotten over 70k kms with a clutch lol

[martymil]

...

[The Wind Breezes]

Nobody sane would prefer daily driving a stock evo 8 over a stock 135.

Yes, there's a way to get more reliable injectors / turbo, it's called buy a N55. Otherwise you're stuck with what comes on the N54 which isn't actually bad, since the injectors flow more than the N55's, are higher end, and the twin turbos flow significantly more than a N55 single turbo.

[martymil]

Originally Posted by elburbs

do you find the car more fun than the EVO X? and is your car a daily ?

The 135i was a daily and so much more fun and shit load more power every where just with a jb4

The 1m is only a weekender now

You would be lucky if a evo x clutch last you 35k

Originally Posted by elburbs

Is there no after market injectors / turbos you could get that are if not cheaper, at least more durable/better quality?

i can see from your sig youre not standard, did you have your mods for a large portion of those kms? n do you think mods increases chances of parts failing like injectors/turbos/hpfp plugs etc?
142k kms is pretty good.. I don't know anyone with an evo that has gotten over 70k kms with a clutch lol

Not all injectors fail if you regularly put injector cleaner through them they will last

My 135 had 85k on the original injectors running 400 rwk on e85, yes you can get way better turbos for cheap like the hexon rr600, hpfp is only a fuel pump just like any pump don't last forever.
Plugs should be changed every 10k and not what bmw says 100k and coils are disposable items like they where in the early cars spark plug leads, points and the coil, they never lasted either.

you will get at least 40k from a set of coils, no big deal

The only things I had problems and changed is

HPFP (if it fails)
Turbos (get rattly but work fine if you leave the stock dumps on or catted aftermarket ones, its only the wastegate flapper)
water pump (will fail at some point before 80k)
accelerator pedal (highly unlikely, but cheap insurance to change it)
Coil packs (failing or not I would change this no matter what)
Sparkplugs (change to ngk gappable ones and save your self the heart ache and money when tuning)

Things you want to do is

inlets, downpipes and a custom tune

on e20 it will be good for around 300rwk on stock turbos

if getting auto make sure you change the pan filter and oil, they say lifetime oil but that's bs.

[vtl]

Originally Posted by elburbs

Is there no after market injectors / turbos you could get that are if not cheaper, at least more durable/better quality?

i can see from your sig youre not standard, did you have your mods for a large portion of those kms? n do you think mods increases chances of parts failing like injectors/turbos/hpfp plugs etc?
142k kms is pretty good.. I don't know anyone with an evo that has gotten over 70k kms with a clutch lol

Mines been fbo since 100k. Plugs wear out faster, turbo life will be reduced but my car is still running fine after 144k kms.

HPFP from my research, it was the fuel quantity control valve crapping out and not the actual pump internals failing. Running a modified car seemed to not have much effect, plenty of stock cars failing. Revised part number seems to have fixed it.

Aftermarket turbos make a lot of power but reliability is dubious. Plenty reports of rb turbos smoking, even just on the australian section! Most reliable turbos are the oem ones.

If you are free on April 10th theres a go kart meet up. Just pop by before we leave and you can have a look at the cars. We are meeting at a petrol station before heading off so it might be a good chance to pop by and see the cars in the flesh:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1232403

You can learn a lot by looking at different cars and talking to the owners.

[elburbs]

Thanks heaps for the detailed responses guys. Really appreciate it ! Vtl Cheers for the invite I also saw it on the fb group too as I've been lurking there too lol.
The maintainance is no issue or anything new with me as I was pretty anal with my evo.
10k plugs and coils at 40k is fine, I will probably only do 10k kms Max a year as it won't be a daily.
Ideal plans weren't anything excessive either, only planned on dp/turboback exhaust, cooler n charge pipe. Didn't plan on e85 or meth, planning to just aim for 250rwkw but I guess things might change later on.
.. as well as light suspension work n sticky tires.

So would it almost b worthwhile purchasing a car that's sitting at 75-100k kms with issues resolved than a low km example with not much done?

anyways, Thanks again guys !!

[T1M]

Depends on how it's been maintained. I had an Evo 8 as well (EvocentriK on EvoOz) and consolidated from that plus a daily to just my 1M now. It's got 45K on it as has been rock solid so far. I am stock hardware but tuned on 18psi with no injector or coil issues to date (making 266kw/559nm).

I changed my gearbox and rear diff oil at 30,000km and do the engine oil every 10,000km. I plan to do the waterpump proactively at 60,000 kms.

Nothing out of the ordinary reliability wise on these cars, just stay on top of the little things and it should be fine. If my turbo wastegates start to go I'll throw a set of hybrids on and retune! HPFP has been fine, but mines a 2012 I think they may have been on a more reliable revision by then. If you can stretch the budget a 1M has all the suspension and diff upgraded to M3 spec and the Hnggg widebody, or even the E90/E92 M3's are mid 70's now if you are scared off the N54.