Car is "waking up" every 1min 15sec, draining battery. CAS issue?

[nazali]

when mine went out, it never got warmer, but mind you, maybe that is not how it failed ? i,e shorted, perhaps the tx/rx in the handle failed ?

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

Usually it is one the handles that goes out first. 10 min job to pull off the outer handles, disconnect the two connectors going to the handles and see if that fixes the battery drain issue.

Often when a handle shorts out, it will be warmer than the other handle as well.

[turbodriven]

Originally Posted by nazali

yes, that sounds like a good bet, the pas handle, in my case I can't spend $500 for a new one, the handles can't be painted and are special order from BMW, UNLESS you get one the right color of ebay, they start around $75

I was thinking of doing that for a test.

I have INPA, dont really used it LOL.

I found a passenger side comfort access door handle today new for about $250 through an online bmw parts shop somewhere. If it comes to that I'd rather spend $250 on a new one, than $100 on some beat up 100k mile used one off ebay. But only if I knew for SURE that it would fix the issue.

I'm going to try tonight to remove the passenger handle, unplug the sensor, and see what happens. I'll report back.

[turbodriven]

Originally Posted by nazali

My mate loaded up all the BMW software, it's be reingold, it's "hmm" not officially released by BMW and you can get uploads,

if for sure you do, I can give you some screenshots

when I was trouble shooting I used it to find were the fault is

I started to stumble through ISTA today. I couldn't find out how to test the door handles? I know it's possible, but I looked various places but couldn't find the specific test.

How did you test yours? Can you tell me the "path" in ISTA?

[turbodriven]

Just a quick update for anyone reading.

Initially I was running INPA and it told me my sole key number was 2. The only key given to me at the dealer I bought the car from. But as I got into ISTA it told me differently that my key was actually number 3? I don't understand the reasoning behind why they are conflicting?? But in ISTA I then blocked/disabled key number 1 and voila, now my comfort access is working... sort of. We'll get to that in a minute. I'm assuming that although you can't change key numbers, with key 1 now decommissioned, it allows key's 2 and 3 to operate comfort access (as 1 and 2)? We know that only two keys are given comfort access permission, despite being able to have 10 keys assigned to the car.

So anyways, I also tested both door handles in INPA. The drivers side seems fine, but the passenger side gives me a pop up error like it doesn't exist. I unplugged the passenger handle and it didn't seem to affect anything in regards to my battery drain issue. Still have my start/stop lighting up every 1min 15sec. after "going to sleep". But the handle definitely appears bad? I might swap driver and passenger handles (plug in only of course) and see what INPA shows me then. If the drivers side pulls a pop up window error then, and the passenger shows good, then I'll know for sure the passenger handle is simply bad and I'll replace it. What that'll fix though, in regards to battery drain, we'll have to see??

So my comfort access is sort of working now. But only after I use the key fob buttons to unlock and wake the car up first? And then only my drivers door CA handle functions to lock/unlock, and the car starts/stops with the key in my pocket. Passenger door of course doesn't work. And the trunk button on the lid doesn't work still. And the biggest issue is that my car is still pulling amps every 1min 15sec.

So the next step is to test the passenger handle some more and likely replace it. And then see where that takes me. It is possible, perhaps, that my battery drain issue is completely unrelated to my CA issues. We'll see though.

[turbodriven]

After the engine is off and the car has been shut down for a while the car goes to sleep with nearly all computers shutting down except the remote entry, clock, convenience settings, etc.) While the car sleeps the IBS wakes up about once per minute to take a quick measurement to assess whether there is enough voltage to restart the car. If the voltage is dropping too far the IBS can send a signal to the DME and wake it up, with the purpose that the DME can then turn off systems in the car using power. This wake up is designed to be a one time event.

The IBS has a microprocessor that can be damaged by moisture (common for older models before they began waterproofed the IBS). If the IBS is malfunctioning it can wake up the DME over and over for no reason. The DME draws a large amount of power and will quickly drain a battery.

By disconnecting the IBS you interrupt the repeated wake ups of the DME and preserve battery voltage. When the IBS is disconnected the DME has no information regarding battery health so it sets the alternator output at around 14.2V, which may over a period of time shorten battery life.

I just read this somewhere after researching my three most significant error codes (A732, A559 and A3BD on my first post), It sounds EXACTLY like my problem. I'm going to try and disconnect the IBS to see if that solves my start/stop lighting up and battery drain problem. Maybe the IBS is bad?? And it's constantly telling my DME to wake up every minute! I'll report back. If that's bad, that will be a SUPER easy fix for $100 or so to replace it.

[nazali]

I think there are a few things and there all interconnected and this is the problem in fault finding. Yes your correct on the IBS, if the IBS detects a current drain it will do that, doesnt mean that the IBS is faulty, just that there is a current drain.

alternate, the IBS is faulty and causing issues with reading current and causing the DME /car to wake

I also went down this thought, thinking possibly the IBS is at fault, due to after a few times changing the leads, it did give a nasty spark and I'm wondering if that fried the IBS, althought there is no IBS errors, BUT I did see an IBS error showing on the current drain section.

My options was/were/are

1> replace passenger door handle
2> replace IBS
3> replace CAS / startgo module in trunk

$450
$300
$300

from BMW

I'm also just pissed off with the whole thing and waiting to find a 2 vert to trade my oner in for LOL

GOOD idea on swapping the pass/door handle I can at least run a chek on it in ISTA

when I get it out I can give you the path, wont be for a while

[turbodriven]

Passenger door handle isn't $450. See the link below. I talked to the parts guy here and he said it's pre-painted, ready to go. I think it's $10-15 to ship. You have an E88 though, which is different. But similarly priced I believe.

https://www.bmwdiscountparts.com/oem...bC1sNi1nYXM%3D

So, $260 or so. I mean, I know mine is bad, but I don't think replacing it is going to fix my overall issue. When I unplugged the passenger handle there was no change in my wake up issue. The more I think about it, the more I think my IBS isn't the issue either. When I unplug that, the condition changes (from a clockwork 1min 15sec wake up, to random wake up). But ultimately it's still waking up and draining the battery. If it's not either of those two things (IF)... then I've exhausted all options that don't require a dealership coding something as they replace it. :-(

[turbodriven]

I'll probably replace those two parts anyways. So that way when I walk into a dealer I can definitely cross those two things off the list without a dealer charging me 3x as much to diagnose them.

Oh, forgot, IBS isn't $300. Hella is the OEM supplier. They are on ebay for $115.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-BMW-E82...YAAOSw6ZZauJVw

[nazali]

hey turbo, yeah I checked out thoes links, the prices I quoted was dealer as some stuff I would rather get. BUT, I'm in Canada, so there is an exchange rate difference, I'll pay customs and also freights, I guess that, 260, you can add at least 100 on that all told, 360, which yes is cheaper than dealer, but more than I'm willing to spend on a car I'm trying to sell/PX

I'll keep an eye on ebay LOL

[nazali]

hey I found some screen grabs when I was trying to diagnose my circuit draw issues, hope this helps

[stansmithm]

Turbo,

Did you find an answer as this is driving me nuts?

Here's my post from another bm site.

Folks,
My 2008 325i E92 coupe has developed the dreaded discharge error ID CC-415 after a few hours of being locked and I am a bit stuck.
I have replaced the battery and the alternator so decided to do a current draw test after shut down and after 30 mins the car sits at around 230mA which I guess isn't bad for all the bits and bobs (but don't actually know what the figure should be). Anyway then I noticed a spike up to 6A for a few seconds returning down to 230mA and after watching the meter this happens every 75 seconds to the second.
I disconnected the IBS and the discharge fault remained.
The car is completely clear of faults (checked by the excellent guys at Autohaus in York) so I am flummoxed.
I'm not sure if there is a tracker fitted yet so will have to check that.
Apart from going through each circuit pulling fuses and waiting for a few hours each time does this ring any bells for anyone?
Update: I also get the engine start button lighting up for a few seconds when the current draw kicks in.

Can anyone help?

[jfodchuk]

Hey there, is there a solution to this? I am troubleshooting what appears to be the exact issue on my 2012 x1, E84.