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      04-12-2023, 08:51 AM   #1
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Auto diff is leaking. Options?

My diff is leaking from the right side axle and possibly the driveshaft.

Question: should I just grab one from the junker and refresh that and just drop it in? Or would you just pull yours and refresh that one? This isn't my only car so it's okay to go into a longer "service mode".

Next: Do I need to drop the entire carrier to do this if I keep my diff to refresh?

Lastly, I'm not quite ready for my manual swap, but I had planned on keeping the auto gearing diff, at least for now. Is it a bad idea to let it leak into the middle of the summer when I have to pull everything for the swap anyway? I'm putting less than 100 miles on the car a week.

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      04-13-2023, 06:22 AM   #2
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It depends on how much it's leaking and your willingness to check it periodically if you leave it until you do the swap this summer.

You can definitely pull just the diff out, no need to drop the subframe. The side axle seals are pretty easy to replace, I did them on mine while it was out.

But I want to say there's enough room once you unbolt the axle and take out the stub shaft that you could pop out the side seal and replace with the diff still in the car.

If the driveshaft seal is leaking, you'll definitely need to pull it out. Be careful with that one, you don't want to over torque the nut holding the input shaft because you'll compress the sleeve inside the nose of the diff that sets the preload.

The method I've used is to mark the position of the nut relative to the pinion and then take it all apart/replace the seal, then only install the nut right back to that mark. It's worked well for a couple diffs I've had in the past that had leaky front seals.
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      04-15-2023, 02:44 PM   #3
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Decided to put the car on stands for a while. Going to keep my diff and service it. Going to knock out subframe and diff bushings while I'm in there. Possibly do engine and transmission mounts while I'm at it to make for a truly noticable maintenance "upgrade".

Anything else y'all recommend while I'm in there?
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      04-16-2023, 09:14 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blau View Post
Anything else y'all recommend while I'm in there?
LSD
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      04-16-2023, 09:20 AM   #5
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LSD
I wish. That's like $3,000+ and I think I'd rather manual swap it first.
It kills me that there isn't a cheaper drop in option.
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      05-02-2023, 12:52 PM   #6
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Going to get cracking on the diff seals this weekend. Here are some questions:

1. I'm pulling the diff off the car to do the seals. That should make accessing everything a little easier, right?

2. I don't care too much about NVH, what's the easiest subframe bushings? As long as it doesn't squeak like a mouse I'm fine (Anyone who did poly RTABs on their e46 knows what I'm talking about).

3. What's the easiest diff bushings and does the diff carrier need to come off the car to do them?

4. I'm adding a 12mm and rear sway bar. Hoping to do this while the diff is out. Really trying to avoid taking the carrier off the car. Think it's possible?

Thanks in advance for any advice, parts recs, links to anything useful.
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      05-02-2023, 01:25 PM   #7
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1. Access to the diff seals? Yeah, you'd have all the access to them.

2. I have whiteline in my car. The subframe isn't supposed to move at all so there should be no squeaking.

3. I didn't want crazy NVH from the diff, so I used M3 front bushings and a stock non-M rear bushing. I bought a bushing press set from Amazon and was able to get them all done with the subframe in the car.

4. I removed the 12mm rear sway to install a 20mm. Honestly, the 12 was extremely easy to remove because it was so bendy, installing it shouldn't be a big deal. I did drop the subframe down as far as I could on the bolts just for more room but I did not remove it.
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      05-02-2023, 05:07 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spidertri View Post
1. Access to the diff seals? Yeah, you'd have all the access to them.

2. I have whiteline in my car. The subframe isn't supposed to move at all so there should be no squeaking.

3. I didn't want crazy NVH from the diff, so I used M3 front bushings and a stock non-M rear bushing. I bought a bushing press set from Amazon and was able to get them all done with the subframe in the car.

4. I removed the 12mm rear sway to install a 20mm. Honestly, the 12 was extremely easy to remove because it was so bendy, installing it shouldn't be a big deal. I did drop the subframe down as far as I could on the bolts just for more room but I did not remove it.
Thank you for the response and info. This is exactly what I needed.
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      05-04-2023, 11:12 AM   #9
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Fyi, Advance Auto Parts (yeah, I know...) Has the Whiteline bushings and they have a 20% off coupon. Got the diff bushings and the subframe bushings all for under $300. Best deal out there.
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      05-22-2023, 04:59 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spidertri View Post
1. Access to the diff seals? Yeah, you'd have all the access to them.

2. I have whiteline in my car. The subframe isn't supposed to move at all so there should be no squeaking.

3. I didn't want crazy NVH from the diff, so I used M3 front bushings and a stock non-M rear bushing. I bought a bushing press set from Amazon and was able to get them all done with the subframe in the car.

4. I removed the 12mm rear sway to install a 20mm. Honestly, the 12 was extremely easy to remove because it was so bendy, installing it shouldn't be a big deal. I did drop the subframe down as far as I could on the bolts just for more room but I did not remove it.
How's that 20mm rear sway treating you? I just checked again and the bar I have is 15mm. I'm hoping to install it but leave the front alone for now. Based on my friends who track their cars they say take it out to the track and feel it out before I do anything else.
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      05-23-2023, 05:44 AM   #11
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It's good, I haven't really thought about changing it. My car has E92 M3 bars front and rear, 500F/800R springs, and a LSD, so it all works together.

I would agree, the best thing to do is make sure the car is in shape maintenance-wise and then head to the track and see what it feels like. What you read about on here that one person does may not feel good to you on track because you end up having a different driving style and preferences.
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