Help with ride height on ohlins r&t

[Grainwashed]

Ive got the rear set about where i want but i cannot get the front to come down to even stock ride height. Ive done what i can through pre-load and the instructions that come with it for setting ride height are very vague and im not sure actually fully apply to our vehicles since they seem to make references to things that are either very different or dont apply at all to our cars.

So is there a way to further adjust ride height or did i pay nearly three grand to have a carolina squat bmw? The only thing i can think of are switching to lighter springs in the front

[spidertri]

Double check and make sure the front springs they sent you are the correct length. I want to say the front springs should be about 7" long when uncompressed, but don't hold me to that.

[Grainwashed]

Originally Posted by spidertri

Double check and make sure the front springs they sent you are the correct length. I want to say the front springs should be about 7" long when uncompressed, but don't hold me to that.

Is this a common issue? Because i absolutely struggled getting the rear close to where i want it, like i was fighting something off with the kit

[spidertri]

I have no idea if it's a common issue, but it's good to check and make sure they sent the right parts. Who did you buy the kit from?

Just fyi, the rear springs should be longer than the front springs. My ohlins came with 7" front springs and 8" rears, but I had the swift upgrade as part of it so I never saw the original ohlins springs spec'd with the kit.

[Grainwashed]

Originally Posted by spidertri

I have no idea if it's a common issue, but it's good to check and make sure they sent the right parts. Who did you buy the kit from?

Just fyi, the rear springs should be longer than the front springs. My ohlins came with 7" front springs and 8" rears, but I had the swift upgrade as part of it so I never saw the original ohlins springs spec'd with the kit.

I ordered from fcp euro, kit MI01. It doesnt look like there was a way for them to send the wrong parts as the boxes were sealed and it lists that kit number for my car on every other site i looked at them on. Originally yeah i had the springs switched around on the wrong sides but i figured it out pretty quick. Iirc the kit should drop around like 10mm off stock ride height but the fronts are a smidge TALLER than stock height from me eyeballing it

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by Grainwashed

I ordered from fcp euro, kit MI01. It doesnt look like there was a way for them to send the wrong parts as the boxes were sealed and it lists that kit number for my car on every other site i looked at them on. Originally yeah i had the springs switched around on the wrong sides but i figured it out pretty quick. Iirc the kit should drop around like 10mm off stock ride height but the fronts are a smidge TALLER than stock height from me eyeballing it

IRC the r&t you have come with 70N/mm front springs and 120N/mm rear springs and the front damper length is FIXED and cannot be adjusted. The lower spring perch is adjustable though.

You're only option is to take preload off the front spring using the lower spring perch collar until you drop to your desired front ride height. Chances are the spring will go loose. Not a big deal to be honest but doesn't make sense that you should have to do that...

here are some people who installed this kit:https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1789614

I don't see anyone else had an issue with the front being too high? Seems a few said the front ended up too low? What camber plates are you using? Different plates have different stack heights which raise or lower the front end...

[tracer bullet]

Also when you say "stock ride height" what are you using for that measurement? If it's your previous ride height, there's a small chance it was actually low (i.e. dead struts).

Maybe take a measurement from the very center of the wheels straight up to the edges of the fenders and post it here, let some others compare.

[Grainwashed]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

IRC the r&t you have come with 70N/mm front springs and 120N/mm rear springs and the front damper length is FIXED and cannot be adjusted. The lower spring perch is adjustable though.

You're only option is to take preload off the front spring using the lower spring perch collar until you drop to your desired front ride height. Chances are the spring will go loose. Not a big deal to be honest but doesn't make sense that you should have to do that...

here are some people who installed this kit:https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1789614

I don't see anyone else had an issue with the front being too high? Seems a few said the front ended up too low? What camber plates are you using? Different plates have different stack heights which raise or lower the front end...

Im using vorschlag plates. Im on the bare minimum preload currently, i can adjust a bit lower but im iffy on loose springs at full sag, and it still wouldnt get me where i wanna be

[Grainwashed]

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

Also when you say "stock ride height" what are you using for that measurement? If it's your previous ride height, there's a small chance it was actually low (i.e. dead struts).

Maybe take a measurement from the very center of the wheels straight up to the edges of the fenders and post it here, let some others compare.

the stock struts were not dead. Car has around 42k on it and rode fine. No evidence of leaks or anything. Ill get data and pics when i get home tomorrow as im currently on vacation, but for now it looks like i have half a lift kit on

[Grainwashed]

Okay so I’ve measured from the center caps to fender and the fronts are a hair over 14 & 3/4 inches and the rears are right 13 & 1/2 inches. Im at max droop in the front and I don’t know how i can take any more length out of the fronts. Im honestly not super happy with this kit. It rides great and handles great too but it really seems like this kit was not meant for our cars. I have no clue why ohlins would send out a kit like this that feels so half-assed, at nearly $2800 its not even dual height adjustable. Probably should’ve gone with kw but that ohlins name is alluring.

[spidertri]

Did you ever measure the length of the springs they sent you?

It sounds like the front spring is too long. I had to add strut spacers to get mine up to the ride height I wanted it at.

You can always call up ohlins and ask them to help troubleshoot.

[tracer bullet]

Originally Posted by Grainwashed

Okay so I’ve measured from the center caps to fender and the fronts are a hair over 14 & 3/4 inches and the rears are right 13 & 1/2 inches.

I've got a 2011 135i M-sport. Original factory parts. I'm about 13" even in the rear, 13-1/8" in the front. You are definitely riding high, at least in the front (and maybe both), no doubt about it.

[Grainwashed]

Originally Posted by spidertri

Did you ever measure the length of the springs they sent you?

It sounds like the front spring is too long. I had to add strut spacers to get mine up to the ride height I wanted it at.

You can always call up ohlins and ask them to help troubleshoot.

Unfortunately its gonna have to wait til the weekend for me to measure the spring length. Just dont have enough time (or more importantly, energy) to take that all back apart after work. Im gonna contact the guys over at HPA to see what they recommend i do for springs. I probably should have gotten their upgraded swift springs anyway but i saw they were mostly recommended for track use and i got the ohlins because of how well they ride on roads. Honestly thats the one area im not disappointed with this kit on, they ride so supple yet i can feel every little thing my tires go over.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by Grainwashed

Unfortunately its gonna have to wait til the weekend for me to measure the spring length. Just dont have enough time (or more importantly, energy) to take that all back apart after work. Im gonna contact the guys over at HPA to see what they recommend i do for springs. I probably should have gotten their upgraded swift springs anyway but i saw they were mostly recommended for track use and i got the ohlins because of how well they ride on roads. Honestly thats the one area im not disappointed with this kit on, they ride so supple yet i can feel every little thing my tires go over.

Keep us in mind should you want to improve the road manners of the BMS Mi01 kit. We can set you up with Swift springs.

The complaint on the older Mi00 kit was how soft it was. Mi01 is an improved kit with more track duty in mind. The front spring is a bit on the stiff side for street duty in our opinion. 6kg is more or less what we like to see instead of 7kg. Rear is fine at 12kg, but a slight reduction rate can further improve the ride quality.

[Yvrbmw]

I also have this kit with the Vorshlag plates. I also was disappointed that the lower shock body was not adjustable independant of preload. I ordered them with 9/12 swift springs setup since my main usage is autocross.

I had to pre-load the crap out of the 7” springs to get the front end down. One big concern with doing this is normally coil bind, but with the swifts, there are less turns per inch. Looking at Swifts website, I’m sitting just within range of the usable stroke. The other issue I had was the lower spring perch rubbing on the tire (255/40/17 a052 on 17x9+42 Apex arc-8).

The other option, then, is to use 6” Swift springs. Barry at 3DM indicated that they would not have enough useable stroke/compression. They seem to work fine, thiugh, without and weird handling characteristics

[Jeff9962]

Originally Posted by Yvrbmw

The other option, then, is to use 6” Swift springs. Barry at 3DM indicated that they would not have enough useable stroke/compression. They seem to work fine, thiugh, without and weird handling characteristics

I'm running the 6" Swift springs with Vorshlag camber plates so that I could clear 245's on an 18x8.5 ET45 ARC-8 wheel. I've run time trials at Sebring in it and never had a problem with any weird handling characteristics. Ride height looks great without excessive pre-load so I love the setup.

[Grainwashed]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

Keep us in mind should you want to improve the road manners of the BMS Mi01 kit. We can set you up with Swift springs.

The complaint on the older Mi00 kit was how soft it was. Mi01 is an improved kit with more track duty in mind. The front spring is a bit on the stiff side for street duty in our opinion. 6kg is more or less what we like to see instead of 7kg. Rear is fine at 12kg, but a slight reduction rate can further improve the ride quality.

I will absolutely keep you guys in mind, i was going to ask what you suggest to help get my ride height down without sacrificing ride quality too much

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by Grainwashed

I will absolutely keep you guys in mind, i was going to ask what you suggest to help get my ride height down without sacrificing ride quality too much

If you have the newer kit, the front spring is already 7". A shorter 6" at the same rate will lower the vehicle further but will likely bind on large bumps.

[Yvrbmw]

Sorry yes that’s what I meant. Handles great. Have not noticed coil bind or wished that I had more travel.

Forgot to add that I’m running a 7mm spacer on front. Also have the powerflex offset bushings since I can’t run both the m3 control arms AND Vorshlag plates in my autocross class (STX)

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by Yvrbmw

I also have this kit with the Vorshlag plates. I also was disappointed that the lower shock body was not adjustable independant of preload. I ordered them with 9/12 swift springs setup since my main usage is autocross.

I had to pre-load the crap out of the 7” springs to get the front end down. One big concern with doing this is normally coil bind, but with the swifts, there are less turns per inch. Looking at Swifts website, I’m sitting just within range of the usable stroke. The other issue I had was the lower spring perch rubbing on the tire (255/40/17 a052 on 17x9+42 Apex arc-8).

The other option, then, is to use 6” Swift springs. Barry at 3DM indicated that they would not have enough useable stroke/compression. They seem to work fine, thiugh, without and weird handling characteristics

Thsi post makes no sense. a 9k spring up front is what 500lb? The car should still be lower than stock using that front spring rate. To lower the car you would not "preload" the front spring. you would put sag into the spring making it come loose from its perch. I do agree though that preloading the spring reduces the available travel of the spring...

to the comments about running 6" springs, you likely have tall progressive bump stops (maybe stock?) preventing the coil from binding. You really don't want to be on the bump stop that much. you want travel and 6" springs give very little travel to work with. Factually they give less travel than your front strut stroke. Z65-152-090 swift springs give 3.1" of usable stroke and 3.9" of MAX stroke (completely bound). Front strut stroke is usually around 4.25-4.5" on every coilover I have seen. If your spring isn't binding then you're probably riding on the bump stop after as little as 1" of bump travel in braking/turning. or, you have coil bind and you don't even realize it.

[Yvrbmw]

Thsi post makes no sense. a 9k spring up front is what 500lb? The car should still be lower than stock using that front spring rate.

I’m not following you here — with a stiffer spring (standard ohlins r&t is 7k), the weight of the front would not compress the spring as much, so it sits higher.

To lower the car you would not "preload" the front spring. you would put sag into the spring making it come loose from its perch.

When you preload a spring, you compress it by dialing the lower spring perch upward. Preloading the spring, in this sense, would logically be better than a loose spring when unloading the suspension. Ideally a tender/helper spring would be ideal, but there is no vertical room for that.

Originally Posted by bbnks2

to the comments about running 6" springs, you likely have tall progressive bump stops (maybe stock?) preventing the coil from binding. You really don't want to be on the bump stop that much. you want travel and 6" springs give very little travel to work with. Factually they give less travel than your front strut stroke. Z65-152-090 swift springs give 3.1" of usable stroke and 3.9" of MAX stroke (completely bound). Front strut stroke is usually around 4.25-4.5" on every coilover I have seen. If your spring isn't binding then you're probably riding on the bump stop after as little as 1" of bump travel in braking/turning. or, you have coil bind and you don't even realize it.

I am using whatever bumpstops came with the Ohlins. I may be riding on bumpstops, which in itself is not necessarily bad. Having said that, I am not feeling any unusual sudden increase in stiffness, hopping or loss of traction. I did a fair bit of bumpstop tuning on my Miata when working with FatCatMotorsports, so I think I have a good feeling for what bumpstop engagement feels like. Emphasis on “I think”. Could be totally wrong.

I also did look at the spring specs from the Swift website for useable stroke and maximum compressed length (coil bind). When I was setting up the car and realizing that in order to get the lower spring perch high enough to clear the tire, the 7” spring was compressed a significant amount (~1”).

So, comparing useable compression for two springs based on just the springs themselves is not an equitable comparison to real-world springs: The 6” spring has 3.9” max stroke. The 7” spring has 4.6” max stroke. If the 7” is already preloaded/compressed 1”, then real-world available compression is only 3.6”.

[ShocknAwe]

Retorque all your arms at new ride height? If not that's a big part of it. Loosen everything, jack up the hub until the spring compresses fully and torque everything down to spec. Rinse repeat in other side. Set preload loosen collar or lower perch all the way, tighten until spring under minimal compression. Spring preload best set with 1/8" of preload IMO.

Obviously set your preload first. Ohlins R&T kit doesn't have separate ride height adjustment, only preload.

If you've done all that likely the springs are too long, which I'd doubt.