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      04-17-2019, 07:37 PM   #1
kmore324
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Help please should I buy this 135i?

2008 bmw 135i
70,000 miles
Stock
Has been wrapped since he bought it so when he took it off the paints basically new
Slight wear on the seats
Never in an accident
Recently replaced whole brake system, hpfp, and spark plugs
Was parked in the driveway through winter
He wants to sell it for 14,000 but I can drop it to 11,000
Is it worth less or is this a good deal?
Are n54's as unreliable as I've heard?
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      04-17-2019, 08:18 PM   #2
swunder
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lol at that ///M.

11k is fine if the records are there and the PPI comes through OK.

Just about any 10+ year old BMW is a risk though so make sure you can afford to keep it running. Not the right car if you have $11,500 in the bank.
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      04-17-2019, 08:29 PM   #3
kmore324
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Quote:
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lol at that ///M.

11k is fine if the records are there and the PPI comes through OK.

Just about any 10+ year old BMW is a risk though so make sure you can afford to keep it running. Not the right car if you have $11,500 in the bank.
Yea lol it's my uncles he put that m badge on there I think. This would be my first car ever since he bought it I've loved that car he's the only owner
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      04-17-2019, 10:09 PM   #4
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I wouldn’t....looks like it hasn’t been well cared for.
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      04-17-2019, 10:11 PM   #5
kmore324
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I wouldn’t....looks like it hasn’t been well cared for.
How so?
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      04-17-2019, 10:13 PM   #6
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For a 2008 with that many miles, I wouldn't pay more than 10,000.

Sure it might be clean, but still. It's an 11 year old car at this point.
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      04-17-2019, 10:17 PM   #7
kmore324
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Originally Posted by HyeWarrior View Post
For a 2008 with that many miles, I wouldn't pay more than 10,000.

Sure it might be clean, but still. It's an 11 year old car at this point.
Yea I get it sometimes I think I'm blinded by the sound and feel of the car but it has only been to the mechanic about 4-5 times in the 11 years he's owned it besides oil changes
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      04-18-2019, 12:25 PM   #8
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11k is a good deal, but you'll want a thorough inspection as mentioned. And it's going to break, and it will be expensive, and yes n54's have issues (as do many n55's). If you're buying this car expecting reliability, run away.
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      04-18-2019, 01:32 PM   #9
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'09 135i  [10.00]
Would you be doing your own maintenance and, when required, your own repairs?

These are great cars, entertaining and a joy to drive. That said, even good examples can require a significant investment in time and money for preventative maintenance just to stay ahead of the curve. Beyond that things can and will break/wear/leak, and quite often are not trivial to replace. That doubles (or more...) if you need to pay somebody to do that work for you.
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      04-18-2019, 01:38 PM   #10
kmore324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1and1 View Post
Would you be doing your own maintenance and, when required, your own repairs?

These are great cars, entertaining and a joy to drive. That said, even good examples can require a significant investment in time and money for preventative maintenance just to stay ahead of the curve. Beyond that things can and will break/wear/leak, and quite often are not trivial to replace. That doubles (or more...) if you need to pay somebody to do that work for you.
Yea I want to learn how to maintain it so that I can enjoy my car as long as possible
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      04-18-2019, 07:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmore324 View Post
How so?
front bumper is scratched up and the wheels have curbs.
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      04-18-2019, 08:01 PM   #12
kmore324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c1pher View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by kmore324 View Post
How so?
front bumper is scratched up and the wheels have curbs.
That's the remaining vinyl wrap it was cracked from the sun and yes the wheel hit the curb once
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      04-18-2019, 09:35 PM   #13
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Things to find out...
Water pump and thermostat replaced?
High pressure fuel pump
Injectors
Look for oil leaks. Oil filter housing, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, rear main seal.
Brakes
Tires
Any one of these is $500-1000.
Have someone look at it to know what you are getting into. Get the repair records from the dealer.
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      04-19-2019, 12:59 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HyeWarrior View Post
For a 2008 with that many miles, I wouldn't pay more than 10,000.

Sure it might be clean, but still. It's an 11 year old car at this point.
That's actually pretty low miles for the age. The car just looks a little rough plus the brakes look like a cheap kit. I'd offer $10,500 if you really like it.
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      04-19-2019, 07:54 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swunder View Post
lol at that ///M.

11k is fine if the records are there and the PPI comes through OK.

Just about any 10+ year old BMW is a risk though so make sure you can afford to keep it running. Not the right car if you have $11,500 in the bank.
This x100
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      04-19-2019, 12:34 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icegrill View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by HyeWarrior View Post
For a 2008 with that many miles, I wouldn't pay more than 10,000.

Sure it might be clean, but still. It's an 11 year old car at this point.
That's actually pretty low miles for the age. The car just looks a little rough plus the brakes look like a cheap kit. I'd offer $10,500 if you really like it.
Low mileage for the chassis, sure. But these cars have proven to never be bullet proof based on mileage. At that age, the water pump, thermostat, alternator, and valve cover are probably on their last legs and deteriorating. Not to mention ALL the coolant hoses and gaskets.

Who knows, maybe the owner took amazing care of it and was on top of all these things. But I'd be willing to bet that this car will need a significant overhaul within the next 5,000 miles. It wouldn't be my first choice if i was shopping for a daily. As a weekend car, it might make for a fun project
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      04-20-2019, 12:43 PM   #17
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Be ready to replace valve cover/oil filter housing gaskets and make sure vacuum hoses for the turbos are not leaking/cracked. And look up DIY on the water pump or get solid documentation on when that was done. The HPFP is a big plus...You will probably want to replace the rear subframe bushings as this was a design flaw where engineers thought everyone would stay with run-flat tires since they keep the rear stiff.

The stock bushing makes the rear swim like jello...
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      04-22-2019, 12:32 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmore324 View Post
Yea lol it's my uncles he put that m badge on there I think. This would be my first car ever since he bought it I've loved that car he's the only owner
If this is your first car it may be a rolling coffin.

If this was your uncle's car and you know if he takes care of his cars you dont need to ask us our opinion based on a few pictures.
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      04-22-2019, 12:40 PM   #19
kmore324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommm View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by kmore324 View Post
Yea lol it's my uncles he put that m badge on there I think. This would be my first car ever since he bought it I've loved that car he's the only owner
If this is your first car it may be a rolling coffin.

If this was your uncle's car and you know if he takes care of his cars you dont need to ask us our opinion based on a few pictures.
Makes sense and I know he's taken care of it just asking cause there's lots of stigma around n54s out there ya know but I fell in love with the car when I first got to ride in it in 2009 it's sounded and felt the same ever since lol
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      04-22-2019, 12:42 PM   #20
kmore324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommm View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by kmore324 View Post
Yea lol it's my uncles he put that m badge on there I think. This would be my first car ever since he bought it I've loved that car he's the only owner
If this is your first car it may be a rolling coffin.

If this was your uncle's car and you know if he takes care of his cars you dont need to ask us our opinion based on a few pictures.
You think? Is it too much power?
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      04-22-2019, 04:50 PM   #21
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This a manual? I'd go for the DCT control box, 2010 onwards.
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      04-22-2019, 04:51 PM   #22
kmore324
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This a manual? I'd go for the DCT control box, 2010 onwards.
Yea it's manual
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