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      12-30-2019, 11:15 AM   #1
84gearhead03
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New to me 2012 128i manual sport

Just picked this up a couple weeks ago. 1st time BMW owner. It has 93,000 miles and I paid $8800. Its in excellent shape and I'm really enjoying it. I replaced my 1997 Jeep Wrangler with it. I'm trying to decide when to replace the water pump. I think I'm going to take the gamble on the water pump. I'll shoot to replace it in the spring before I take a trip to the Smoky Mountains.

This does have the N51 engine but I'm not too concerned about it. It sounds like the radiator is costly to replace, but I work on all my own stuff. My I've rebuilt a couple AX-15 transmissions for both Jeeps I've owned....I'm hoping I can drive the wheels off this car without too many surprises.

I have a Honda Civic as my daily so I expect and don't mind a little one on one in the garage with a car that drives as well as this one.

I am on the hunt for a spare tire, the wheels I have I believe are directional and the rears are wider than the fronts, so basically I can't rotate at all....good thing 17 inch tires are cheap.
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      12-30-2019, 11:19 AM   #2
desertman123
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Congrats and welcome! Post pics if you can.

For the spare, check Facebook marketplace for "BMW Wheels", I'm sure you'll quickly find a cheap OEM wheel in the same size.
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      12-30-2019, 11:37 AM   #3
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Beautiful machine.
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      12-30-2019, 02:49 PM   #4
The Wind Breezes
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Replace pump as soon as you don't want to be stranded.
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      12-30-2019, 10:20 PM   #5
84gearhead03
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Yeah Ill probably replace the pump by spring. Im close enough to work and rural enough I can tow strap it home! Lol
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      12-31-2019, 02:16 AM   #6
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Congratz

btw you don't need to rotate tires on this car, if you get a wear pattern replace a pair of shocks, struts or knuckles, control arms.
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      01-01-2020, 06:28 PM   #7
84gearhead03
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuxedo View Post
Congratz

btw you don't need to rotate tires on this car, if you get a wear pattern replace a pair of shocks, struts or knuckles, control arms.
Thanks. Any suspension or bushings that need replaced at 100k? I dont notice anything and it feels super tight.
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      01-13-2020, 11:23 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84gearhead03 View Post
Thanks. Any suspension or bushings that need replaced at 100k? I dont notice anything and it feels super tight.
If it's tight and feels strong, no ka-chunks it's prob been replaced already. Buying an $8800 BMW results in replacing something you want/need to and while you're doing that might as well upgrade xyz too. That done you seek out the next fine detail to perfect... rinse n repeat.
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      01-19-2020, 04:51 PM   #9
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Congratulations. Great car as is and almost unlimited upgrading available if you want. Hard to find model, I looked 6 months for mine. For a spare I bit the bullet and got a donut spare from BMW. I like rotating my tires, so changed to 4 lightweight 18x 8.5 wheels ( and lost about 6 lbs. per wheel ).
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      01-26-2020, 07:37 PM   #10
84gearhead03
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Been daily driving it and no problems have cropped yet!
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      01-28-2020, 07:03 PM   #11
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Welcome to the party! I have the same car as you but in DSB!
bmw1racer you finally have a twin, old man!
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      01-29-2020, 07:10 AM   #12
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The SULEV warranty on the N51 is nice. I just had all of the coils and plugs on my 2009 128i replaced for free.
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      01-30-2020, 05:56 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by m_thompson View Post
The SULEV warranty on the N51 is nice. I just had all of the coils and plugs on my 2009 128i replaced for free.
I know theres alot of talk about that on here. It was a PA car but I live in Indiana, so I don't kmow what the sucess rate is for warranty work.
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      01-30-2020, 06:58 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84gearhead03 View Post
Thanks. Any suspension or bushings that need replaced at 100k? I dont notice anything and it feels super tight.
My first one was a 12 Sport 128i. Congrats. Great price...



M3 front control arms.
Pull locating pins.
Max camber alignment.
Rear subframe bushing inserts at minimum...m3 bushings at most.
REMOVE THE Clutch Delay Valve if it exists.
Remove the clutch helper spring too.
Get Carly to code stuff how you like it...or find someone with one.

Performance exhaust if you can find one....

Lovely car!!!
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      02-05-2020, 10:15 AM   #15
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      05-31-2020, 03:28 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84gearhead03 View Post
Just picked this up a couple weeks ago. 1st time BMW owner. It has 93,000 miles and I paid $8800. Its in excellent shape and I'm really enjoying it. I replaced my 1997 Jeep Wrangler with it. I'm trying to decide when to replace the water pump. I think I'm going to take the gamble on the water pump. I'll shoot to replace it in the spring before I take a trip to the Smoky Mountains.

This does have the N51 engine but I'm not too concerned about it. It sounds like the radiator is costly to replace, but I work on all my own stuff. My I've rebuilt a couple AX-15 transmissions for both Jeeps I've owned....I'm hoping I can drive the wheels off this car without too many surprises.

I have a Honda Civic as my daily so I expect and don't mind a little one on one in the garage with a car that drives as well as this one.

I am on the hunt for a spare tire, the wheels I have I believe are directional and the rears are wider than the fronts, so basically I can't rotate at all....good thing 17 inch tires are cheap.
Congrats on the car. I disagree about changing the electric water pump based solely on time or mileage. Per Mike Miller, these newer cars aren't experiencing catastrophic engine failure when the WP suddenly dies, the car will just go into limp mode (which means usually you won't even be stranded). Just flush your coolant every couple of years. Anecdotally these cars often throw codes before the WP fails, so consider scanning the ECU at regular intervals, like oil changes.
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      05-31-2020, 03:46 PM   #17
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I will also say that I noticed a slow coolant leak on my car a couple of years ago (mine is MY2010). I was also getting codes for low coolant volume. I was sure the water pump was failing, but I changed one of the main water pipes, flushed the coolant, and not a problem since. It makes me wonder if some of these water pump failures are being precipitated by an unrecognized leak, or perhaps some sort of contamination in the coolant that damages the pump. In any case, if you do your own maintenance and are regular and methodical about it, I think you can pick up a lot of small problems before they become big ones. And you can also avoid spending time and money replacing parts that don't need replacing.
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      06-01-2020, 02:34 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer-Bob View Post
I will also say that I noticed a slow coolant leak on my car a couple of years ago (mine is MY2010). I was also getting codes for low coolant volume. I was sure the water pump was failing, but I changed one of the main water pipes, flushed the coolant, and not a problem since. It makes me wonder if some of these water pump failures are being precipitated by an unrecognized leak, or perhaps some sort of contamination in the coolant that damages the pump. In any case, if you do your own maintenance and are regular and methodical about it, I think you can pick up a lot of small problems before they become big ones. And you can also avoid spending time and money replacing parts that don't need replacing.
I agree with BB. I might add keeping an eye on OFHG for ANY leakage. Super easy to replace at an oil change. Also might recommend pulling the engine cover [unless it's super dry on right (passenger) side of engine] to check for any leakage from the valve cover gasket (or associated parts)
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      06-07-2020, 08:10 PM   #19
84gearhead03
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Still zero problems to date. I really enjoy this car. I do have it for sale at the moment because its a third car. I may go to a 5 series for more practicallity.
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      06-08-2020, 10:15 AM   #20
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After only 23 weeks of ownership!
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