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      06-13-2020, 07:54 PM   #14521
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Retrofitted the Homelink mirror (Compass, Auto-Dimming, and Garage Door opener). $70 and an hour of work. Pretty cool.

Best part of it is that the mirror doesn't slip down when I hit bumps any more. That'll make giving point-by's on the track a little easier...
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      06-14-2020, 02:24 PM   #14522
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M Performance Exhaust

Got my M Performance exhaust the other day and put it on Friday night. Super easy install, even with the cutting of the resonator. Took about an hour. Love the sound (everything else on the car is stock) compared to stock. Gives it a little more of a growl. Will try to post a video here soon.
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      06-14-2020, 07:22 PM   #14523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petro135 View Post
Smart man, I just read about harbor freight recalling jackstands. I have several different pairs but only one pair from harbor freight. And they are the recalled model number. To think I pulled my subframe and turbos out with those holding my car up scares the hell out of me. Luckily I decided to go to 6ton so I could get it up higher for the rest of the turbo install.

So anyone who has harbor freight jackstands the recalled models are 56371, 61196, and 61197.
Be careful!!!!
I'm just now reading this, but my roommate has the Harbor Freight jack stands and they started splitting on him while he was working on his Jeep. I'll try and take a picture and post it tonight for everyone to see. He is returning them and getting his money back, but still scary.
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      06-14-2020, 11:11 PM   #14524
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Got my 335i front brake calipers on!

I couldn't beat $80 shipped for the calipers. Went with Centric rotors and Akebono pads too, same as before.

Cleaned, spray painted them, stuck them on and gave the whole brake and clutch system a bleed.

Everything felt great but the pedal was definitely a bit softer. Looked it up and turns out people benefit from adding the performance brake option to the DSC unit. Did this and now the pedal feels a bit better! Doesn't need as much travel.

(Add +SPBR to your VO in both FRM and CAS)
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      06-15-2020, 05:34 AM   #14525
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I have a 09 128i. ABS light came on, then off, then came back and stayed on. Connected OBDLink LX, and it says 0 codes stored. I'm just trying to figure out where the issue is so I can decide if I want to tackle it or take it to the shop.
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      06-15-2020, 05:54 AM   #14526
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PCNewman View Post
I have a 09 128i. ABS light came on, then off, then came back and stayed on. Connected OBDLink LX, and it says 0 codes stored. I'm just trying to figure out where the issue is so I can decide if I want to tackle it or take it to the shop.
From what I remember, ABS and DSC type codes are stored elsewhere. Do you have INPA?
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      06-15-2020, 07:24 AM   #14527
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Forgive my ignorance but no idea what INPA is?
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      06-15-2020, 07:54 AM   #14528
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So I googled INPA. Need to do some research on that. Thanks for the input.
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      06-15-2020, 08:23 AM   #14529
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Dropped the 1er at my Indy for the N53 head and Hydra turbo install. Should have it back sometime next week!
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      06-15-2020, 08:24 AM   #14530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PCNewman View Post
So I googled INPA. Need to do some research on that. Thanks for the input.
INPA or any other way to read BMW specific codes. INPA is good & it's free (except you need a cable) but a little tricky to get setup and comfortable with.

There are other scan tools and telephone apps that you can use to accomplish the same thing and actually code.

I only know INPA and have a Foxwell scanner but do some more digging and see what is right for you.

Or you can take the car to a shop with the ability to read the codes, but, that could cost as much as getting setup to read it yourself.
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      06-15-2020, 08:25 AM   #14531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
Dropped the 1er at my Indy for the N53 head and Hydra turbo install. Should have it back sometime next week!
Curious who you are using in Charleston.
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      06-15-2020, 08:28 AM   #14532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gjm120 View Post
Curious who you are using in Charleston.
Ultimate Autowerks in the West Ashley neighborhood. Nothing else compares honestly.
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      06-15-2020, 09:56 AM   #14533
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Installed PowerFlex sub-frame inserts this weekend. Might look at a few other bushing to change out as well; after this and the differential bushings, the car feels firm and planted.
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      06-15-2020, 09:59 AM   #14534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
Ultimate Autowerks in the West Ashley neighborhood. Nothing else compares honestly.
Thanks. I'm in Charleston a good bit. Usually without my car, but, this is good to know.
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      06-15-2020, 01:19 PM   #14535
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Hearts out fellas.
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      06-15-2020, 01:23 PM   #14536
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Afam28 View Post
3 weeks and my subframe is finally put in...
Between my insurance paying for the subframe...
Getting the subframe...
And then finally getting it put in and picked up today...

I finally have my car back!

Only...


To go to the alignment shop for a drop off...
They are about a week behind in work...
Sooooooooo, I guess I'll have it back next week!


My daily Toyota with 230,000 miles on it is pulling all duty, she's getting close to retirement!
Glad to hear the insurance is covering it, I'm guessing under a comprehensive coverage claim?
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      06-15-2020, 01:25 PM   #14537
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WA_135i View Post
I'm just now reading this, but my roommate has the Harbor Freight jack stands and they started splitting on him while he was working on his Jeep. I'll try and take a picture and post it tonight for everyone to see. He is returning them and getting his money back, but still scary.
The current recall is for a bad casting in the pawl system, but I do remember people also having issues with the weld along the side of the base splitting. There's reports of the current "replacements" also failing from the weld at the base though now, just FYI.
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      06-15-2020, 01:27 PM   #14538
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PCNewman View Post
I have a 09 128i. ABS light came on, then off, then came back and stayed on. Connected OBDLink LX, and it says 0 codes stored. I'm just trying to figure out where the issue is so I can decide if I want to tackle it or take it to the shop.
Could be a wheel speed sensor, either failing or getting a faulty reading. Do some searching around here and you'll find a few threads about this. Easiest first thing to do is to remove the sensor and clean/look for corrosion. I guess if your code reader doesn't tell you which one it is then it might be a bit tougher though. Good luck.
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      06-15-2020, 02:23 PM   #14539
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtla1 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Afam28 View Post
3 weeks and my subframe is finally put in...
Between my insurance paying for the subframe...
Getting the subframe...
And then finally getting it put in and picked up today...

I finally have my car back!

Only...


To go to the alignment shop for a drop off...
They are about a week behind in work...
Sooooooooo, I guess I'll have it back next week!


My daily Toyota with 230,000 miles on it is pulling all duty, she's getting close to retirement!
Glad to hear the insurance is covering it, I'm guessing under a comprehensive coverage claim?
Would assume so...
All i know is they told me that they want my car in as best condition as possible...
They even fixed a worn boot I had on the steering rack...
And best of all, my insurance didn't go up a bit...
Actually it went down when I gave them an updated address!
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      06-15-2020, 05:08 PM   #14540
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Well gents...
Finally got my car back today...
Drives superb...
No steering wheel shake(as posted in a thread I have)...
Then i go to check the current measurements(per my alignment results)...

And my castor is still off...
New subframe is in and still my castor is off...
7.2 on the left, 6.8 on the right...

Sigh!
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      06-15-2020, 05:29 PM   #14541
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtla1 View Post
Could be a wheel speed sensor, either failing or getting a faulty reading. Do some searching around here and you'll find a few threads about this. Easiest first thing to do is to remove the sensor and clean/look for corrosion. I guess if your code reader doesn't tell you which one it is then it might be a bit tougher though. Good luck.
Thanks for input. I've been researching and I think I'll try the washer under the sensor trick on one side, then the other.
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      06-16-2020, 04:23 AM   #14542
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PCNewman View Post
Thanks for input. I've been researching and I think I'll try the washer under the sensor trick on one side, then the other.
Emailed OBDLINK Support and got the following response:
The OBDLink app, by default, only connects to OBD-II (emissions related) data. Because ABS parameters/DTCs are OEM data, you will not be able to read this data for your vehicle without an app that has access to BMW Proprietary data.



The OBDLink app does not currently have this data as an OEM enhanced add-on at this time, but I have added this as a feature request and we are tallying request for this data.



Users have reported success using our scan tools and the BMW specific apps made by SG Software GmbH & Co. KG. You can verify support for your vehicle by either visiting their website or by emailing them directly at info@bimmerlink.app




Best regards,


I bought this dongle to use with Track Addict App, which it does very well. Now looking at plug in scanners ESC carries by Foxwell.
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