Another water pump down, <48k

[PA135i]

Originally Posted by 1AddictsAnonymous

I'm on my second N5x engine (second car) and knock on wood I haven't had to deal with this yet but I've been giving a lot of thought to just doing it before it blows.

Seeing as the two pumps are different, does anyone know if the faults in the original pump have been corrected? I read a while back that some of the bearings go causing the pump to fail, has anyone had a look inside the new ones?

Interested in this. Since I;m on my second pump would be nice to know if the new replacements are better built from BMW. Anybody know?

[Venom]

Originally Posted by awns729

Oh, also the water pump will cycle on and off, so it's not constantly on when doing the bleed procedure.

And I had a 2aaf code afterwards for fuel pump plausability. no other codes. i googled, and everyone says not to worry about it if its the only code. it could be unrelated to this entirely, it could be the actual fuel pump (i thought i had some longer starts recently), or it could be because the battery drained as i was bleeding the pump (didn't hook up a charger). just wanted to mention, in case it is related and it happens to anyone else. but i'm not saying it is related necessarly, could just be a coincidence.

That fuel pump plausibility means it's on the way out according to a tech I talked to recently in trying to diagnose what was wrong with my car. I had that for a little while and when I got on it WOT @ 4-5k RPM it would shudder and I would have to restart the car to drive safely.

[6MT_Addict]

Originally Posted by PA135i

Interested in this. Since I;m on my second pump would be nice to know if the new replacements are better built from BMW. Anybody know?

I've done some more reading and several posts seem to lean towards this, suggesting OEM be used over aftermarket, and alluded that the new pumps were better. I have yet to find out if they are for certain though.

[drewster99]

Has anyone taken their old/broken water pumps apart after replacing them to diagnose what keeps happening to these? I took mine apart and saw that the plastic propeller shaft broke in half, causing the propeller to bind up and stop spinning. I'm interested to know if this is one of the common reasons for the water pumps to fail.

[awns729]

Originally Posted by Venom

That fuel pump plausibility means it's on the way out according to a tech I talked to recently in trying to diagnose what was wrong with my car. I had that for a little while and when I got on it WOT @ 4-5k RPM it would shudder and I would have to restart the car to drive safely.

Personally, that code hasn't returned for me and I haven't had any issues yet running 3 gallons of E85.

[Venom]

Originally Posted by awns729

Personally, that code hasn't returned for me and I haven't had any issues yet running 3 gallons of E85.

Nice! Well that's good to hear. I'd run logs to be on the safe side. But if you're running 20%+ e85 in a tuned system it might have just been a hiccup.

[sixburgh]

Thanks Freon for the complete post. I am bookmarking this thread. I changed out (4) waterpumps in my previous rides so I could. Thanks too, Dackelone for the links.

[jcoop269]

Is this primarily an issue with the pumps on the 135??? I only ask because I didn't know if the pumps were different than the 128's and everyone posting on topic are 135 owners. My 2010 128 is at 118,000m and I'm pretty sure the pump has not been replaced yet so I'm wondering if I'm just lucky. I know with my fiance's Honda, they recommend water pump and timing belt at 120,000m and most last until that time without any issue.

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted by jcoop269

Is this primarily an issue with the pumps on the 135??? I only ask because I didn't know if the pumps were different than the 128's and everyone posting on topic are 135 owners. My 2010 128 is at 118,000m and I'm pretty sure the pump has not been replaced yet so I'm wondering if I'm just lucky. I know with my fiance's Honda, they recommend water pump and timing belt at 120,000m and most last until that time without any issue.

Do you know the typical operating temperature in the 128i? The 135i runs pretty hot compared to my other vehicles.

Scanning obd, the coolant in my 135 is typically 220F or higher. In my five other cars, none go over 200. Remember that chemical aging goes by Arrhenius, meaning that degradation rates double for every 8 degrees (Celsius) hotter it is.

[dannypwr]

Water pump failed at <48k as well....

[Judge]

Mine died at 53k. Can't say I'm thrilled by how our cars just shutdown to protect the engine without regard for driver safety. I was on a major interstate when I got the warning and was able to pull off just in time before losing all power. I could have been in an accident, but at least my engine didn't overheat!

[Freon]

Well, it could be a lot worse if the engine completely shut down and you were left with just some residual vacuum for the brakes and no power steering.

Without cooling I imagine the engine would warp the heads and blow the gaskets very rapidly, so it's saving you from grenading a $10k engine within 15 seconds.

I fixed my photos last week since dropbox killed off hotlinking a while back.

[QuebecDIY]

They're alumimium bolts, should be replaced - you don't want to break them on such a crampy space.

If you guys would like to remove it easier and faster than so many hours...

[QuebecDIY]

Torque, for 135i...
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-drive/5Wl9as9