|
|
|
03-12-2014, 10:20 AM | #24 |
Second Lieutenant
9
Rep 234
Posts |
I don't have the dreaded rattle yet but I have had great success with 3m strip caulk in other vehicles.
__________________
PE exhaust, tints...more to come
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-19-2014, 05:15 PM | #25 |
Second Lieutenant
53
Rep 227
Posts |
|
Appreciate
0
|
01-07-2016, 02:36 PM | #26 |
First Lieutenant
24
Rep 382
Posts |
Mine hasn't come back since I first did this write up. There might be other pieces of the dash near the apillar that are rattling. This foam tape stuff works pretty good anywhere that you think a rattle might be happening. Maybe the vent rattles, try the foam tape behind it?
__________________
2011 Space Grey 135i Sold
06 GTO , 06 WRX, 59 Bug AV cars and Coffee www.facebook.com/Avcarsandcoffee/ |
Appreciate
0
|
05-03-2016, 10:12 PM | #27 |
Second Lieutenant
87
Rep 263
Posts |
So I had a lot of noise, the 'rock hitting windshield' stuff plus some creaks from the passenger end of the dashboard. It got to the point where I had to solve this, so I removed the end trim panel, the a-pillar trim, and then the vent assembly (much better to take it out intact by releasing the tabs through the two holes seen after removing the end cover, but also needed to pop the edge of the vent cover to get the end cover off!).
There was some creaking in the vent assembly, so I sprayed B'laster the Dry Lube (contains Teflon) on the edges of the vent cover to quiet the assembly. Try not to spray too much as it gets all over; if you hold the assembly at the proper angle, the 'run' doesn't make such a mess. With all the pieces removed, I still had noise from the glove box cover, so I used a small strip of nylon webbing plus some double-sided tape (for golf club grips) to build up the area near the bumper and quiet the cover. One at a time, I replaced the end cover and then the vent assembly with neither producing any noises over bumps. When I started to put the A-pillar trim back, it was already creaking as I was trying to connect the dashboard end. After some thought, I decided to try to wrap the tabs on the trim as well as the trim buttons on the pillar with Teflon tape (it sort of stays put long enough to assemble the pillar trim) but discovered that I needed to install the pillar trim before the vent assembly, so I disassembled the pieces again and started by installing the pillar trim then the end trim, and finally the vent assembly. So far, no funny noises! |
Appreciate
0
|
05-04-2016, 03:43 PM | #28 | |
Lieutenant
183
Rep 537
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-05-2016, 10:18 PM | #29 |
Second Lieutenant
87
Rep 263
Posts |
Markslc,
I tried to isolate the noise first. Began with driving with the glove box cover open and discovered it was a contributor to the noises when it was closed but not when it was open. First step in eliminating noise from the cover by putting 1/4" wide rubber bands" between the farthest (door) side of the cover and the rubber bumper. This solved one source, so I found a more permanent solution by trying varying thickness items such as nylon webbing. To isolate dashboard/vent noises, start by pulling the rubber door strip/seal away from the body. It is a 'squeeze fit' over the overlapping sheetmetal. Next, carefully (not a lot of pressure nor pull) work the outer edge of the vent cover toward the door and slightly toward the seat. There are a series of tabs and interlocking clips to pull apart and create a bit of space between the vent cover and the trim piece at the edge of the dash. This step is helpful because the end trim of the dash has an edge that is covered by the vent cover. I started at the top of the end trim, slowly pulling it away from the dashboard itself (outward toward the door). There are some plastic tabs that you'll need to disengage in order to remove this. Work your way to the bottom of this trim piece. Once this piece is off, push the vent cover back into place. There are two holes, perhaps about 1/4" in diameter, that are exposed with the end trim out of the way. I used a torx driver that fit the hole to push into the vent assembly in order to disengage two tabs on the outboard side. Depressing the tabs will permit removal of the vent assembly (not just the vent cover). Push but don't force the tool in while gently pulling the vent assembly toward the seat, first from top, and then from bottom (order doesn't matter, just wiggle either the top or bottom out while depressing the corresponding tab; then move to the other end). The vent will pop out. (When you get the vent assembly out, you'll see the tabs you have depressed to release it.) The next step was to remove the a-pillar cover. Remember that there is an airbag hidden by it. Some may advise disconnecting the battery first, but I did not and tried to work carefully. Use an auto trim tool (plastic) or very carefully use a small, flat head screwdriver to pry the "airbag" rectangle away from the trim. I worked from the highest edge. It comes off easily. Beneath this cover is a torx head fastener. Remove this and set it aside. The pillar cover has two fasteners on the pillar itself; they use a trim button located on the pillar and a plastic slot on the cover that slides over the button (in two places). Slide the trim piece up the pillar while gently pulling the bottom of the trim toward the seat. The bottom has a hook shaped tab that will prevent it from being lifted straight upward. This will get the parts out. Once I had the vent assembly out, I discovered that it had some squeakiness that I treated with 'Blaster TDL', a Teflon lube with some type of spray aerosol. Be careful how you hold the piece so that the wet delivery solution doesn't run all over the cover and vent flaps. I just sprayed around the edges where the cover snaps onto the vent body. The PD TDL label says the Teflon is 'long lasting'. I'll reserve judgment until later! In my instance, I put the pieces back one at a time. I recommend the end trim piece first, then the a-pillar cover, and finally the vent assembly as it's more difficult to install the a-pillar cover if the vent assembly is in place first. For the a-pillar cover, I decided to try Teflon (plumbing) tape, wrapping it around the trim buttons on the a-pillar. Twice around is sufficient; do this carefully and pull the tape tightly so as to get the tape into the slot of the button and on the outer surface in order to cover all possible contact surfaces. While the tape does not have an adhesive surface (after all, it is designed to reduce friction), wrapping it tightly seems to help keep it in place. I then wrapped some tape on the hook tab and around the flat tab, again trying to cover the full surface and all edges that make contact with the top of the dashboard. I would recommend installing this piece next. With one hand positioned near the top of the trim (top button height) and looking at the mounting area through the windshield, you can line up the buttons/slots while pushing the cover against the pillar and thus engage the buttons with the slots. Your other hand needs to be lining up the bottom of the cover with the two slots for the bottom tabs. At the bottom, push both downward and forward, toward the windshield. It's a bit tricky, but it's also much more difficult to install this after the vent assembly is in place. If a test drive confirms that all is quiet, then slide/snap the vent assembly into place. Remember to push the door seal trim back into place before you close the door! Good luck! |
Appreciate
2
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|