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06-26-2019, 06:49 AM | #23 |
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You don't need -2 degrees of front camber for driving on public roads. For track driving, -2.0 front camber is too little, and you should get -3.0 or more negative. However for public roads around -0.7 to -1.3 degrees is plenty for the front. You can get in this range with M3 arms and a slight lowering.
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06-26-2019, 12:03 PM | #24 | |
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You need more camber when... https://www.turnology.com/tech-stori...ke-you-faster/ |
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06-26-2019, 08:47 PM | #25 | |
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Initially, I wanted to add Dinan fixed camber plates but the hassle to remove the struct/shocks etc. Can I just remove the wheel alignment pins for slighly more -ve camber or don't bother at all. |
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06-26-2019, 10:28 PM | #26 | |
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Dinan camber plates may be a little help if you want to track the car occasionally and still do a lot of mileage as a road car. However they are not adequate for regular track day use. Last edited by John_01; 06-27-2019 at 07:25 AM.. |
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06-27-2019, 03:15 PM | #27 |
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Not sure I agree with less than 1.5 degrees negative front being adequate for ANY driving on this chassis unless you're doing a 5m <15mph grocery trip. I absolutely chewed up my shoulders with -1.5 and it's been fine since upping to -2.5deg. Zero toe.
Camber plates are necessary if you want more than -1.5 and or don't want to install M LCAs, which are not always necessarily what you want as they impede front tire fitment.
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06-27-2019, 06:34 PM | #28 | |
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06-27-2019, 08:30 PM | #29 |
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Front anti roll bar upgrade is a good help to improve the steering response in road car driving situations. Particularly with OE style shocks and struts, increasing the overall roll stiffness helps the steering response as well as the ultimate grip.
Last edited by John_01; 06-28-2019 at 12:47 AM.. |
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06-27-2019, 08:40 PM | #30 |
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As long as using stock spring rates, yes.
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06-27-2019, 08:42 PM | #31 |
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Could be an ok middle ground compromise for someone that doesn't want to do camber plates I guess
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06-28-2019, 08:20 AM | #32 |
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Could also slot your strut tower some more.
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