More Camber - Options?

[Kwroz21]

Looking for some input here.

I'm currently running SPC camber plates on my 09 135i with Ohlin R&T coilover with Swift Springs & m3 control arms. The SPC plates for those who haven't come across them. They're very basic. In that they allow the strut to slide in both +/- directions.

Right now I'm only able to get -2.2 degrees of camber (-2.3 max) on the driver's side. The passenger side can easily get to -2.8. The limitation appears to be the construction of the strut tower. (see image)

I'd like to get closer to -3.0 on both sides. But with the strut tower on the driver's side limiting me. I think I need to explore other camber plate options. Any suggestions?
Anyone have a similar issue with their car?

The car primarily sees track use.

[drunkenup]

So if I'm seeing this correctly, the gold-ish ring is against the inner edge of the tower and the eye needs to line up with what is underneath-

Can you disassemble the camber plate to flip the gold ring 180 degrees? the eye is off center and you could bring the strut farther in if it was set the other way.

On my TMS plates and the GC's my friend had, the top nut of the strut can be brought all the way in, touching the inside of the tower opening.

[Mark Aubele]

Looks to me as the plate itself is limiting camber rather than the tower itself.

[Kwroz21]

Originally Posted by drunkenup

So if I'm seeing this correctly, the gold-ish ring is against the inner edge of the tower and the eye needs to line up with what is underneath-

Can you disassemble the camber plate to flip the gold ring 180 degrees? the eye is off center and you could bring the strut farther in if it was set the other way.

On my TMS plates and the GC's my friend had, the top nut of the strut can be brought all the way in, touching the inside of the tower opening.

The plates are directional. flipping them 180 miss-aligns the studs with the hole in the strut tower. but perhaps they maybe off center.

[Kwroz21]

Originally Posted by Mark Aubele

Looks to me as the plate itself is limiting camber rather than the tower itself.

there's still room on the plate to move over. just like on the passenger side. Every alignment I've had done, tops put at -2.3

[lowside67]

Has your car been in an accident? If your subframe is shifted underneath to one side, it would explain why similar physical positions at the top equal very different camber.

For reference, my car with stock control arms and camber plates that put the top nut right against the edge of the strut tower opening provided almost exactly -2.8 degrees on each side, the difference was less than 0.1 degrees.

To get more camber, your options are to cut the opening larger to move the top of the strut further inboard, or use a longer control arm in the bottom to move the bottom of the strut outboard. Without any rules on classing, I'd for sure be starting with the top, but I think there is something funky in your car I'd want to get to the bottom of first.

-Mark

[imported_mega]

get rid of the strut tower brace, no matter what plates you use it's going to be a problem. You can also lengthen the slots

[lowside67]

Originally Posted by imported_mega

get rid of the strut tower brace, no matter what plates you use it's going to be a problem. You can also lengthen the slots

Why do you say that? You can clearly see that the brace is larger than the diameter of the strut tower opening; it is the strut tower opening that is limiting the camber, not the brace. I have the factory 1M brace and -3.6 degrees camber with 0 issues whatsoever.

-Mark

[davidwarren]

I'm running Ohlins with Vorshlag plates, built as a custom kit from 3DM. Barry built spacer rings that go on top of the plate, between the camber plate and the underside of the strut tower, that allows much more room for adjustment. Perhaps you could look into some sort of spacer so the adjuster can go past the strut tower.

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by davidwarren

I'm running Ohlins with Vorshlag plates, built as a custom kit from 3DM. Barry built spacer rings that go on top of the plate, between the camber plate and the underside of the strut tower, that allows much more room for adjustment. Perhaps you could look into some sort of spacer so the adjuster can go past the strut tower.

Barry from 3DM is the bomb!

[Ginger_Extract]

Seems like the camber plate design is the issue. With Vorshlag plates and M3 arms my car is at -3.3 degrees up front, and it's not super low.

Alternatively, you could always gave aftermarket control arms, from Wisefab or similar, and run as much camber as you would like.

[berns]

Vorshlag plates and SPL adjustable control arms here, -3.8 degrees and can go past 5 probably.

[Kwroz21]

Originally Posted by lowside67

Has your car been in an accident? If your subframe is shifted underneath to one side, it would explain why similar physical positions at the top equal very different camber.

For reference, my car with stock control arms and camber plates that put the top nut right against the edge of the strut tower opening provided almost exactly -2.8 degrees on each side, the difference was less than 0.1 degrees.

To get more camber, your options are to cut the opening larger to move the top of the strut further inboard, or use a longer control arm in the bottom to move the bottom of the strut outboard. Without any rules on classing, I'd for sure be starting with the top, but I think there is something funky in your car I'd want to get to the bottom of first.

-Mark

I maybe the second owner but... the car hasn't been in any accidents. I'd have to double check but I feel as if without the Ohlins and camber plates I was getting around -2 camber with just the m3 control arms

[Kwroz21]

Originally Posted by davidwarren

I'm running Ohlins with Vorshlag plates, built as a custom kit from 3DM. Barry built spacer rings that go on top of the plate, between the camber plate and the underside of the strut tower, that allows much more room for adjustment. Perhaps you could look into some sort of spacer so the adjuster can go past the strut tower.

Interesting approach. I'll definitely take a look at some like this. Any chance you can pm Barry's contact info?

[Kwroz21]

Originally Posted by berns

Vorshlag plates and SPL adjustable control arms here, -3.8 degrees and can go past 5 probably.

Not tryin to "stance" the car here. After all, it's a track toy. But I definitely see fully adjustable controls in its future.
Are the SPL arms worth the price?

[berns]

Originally Posted by Kwroz21

Not tryin to "stance" the car here. After all, it's a track toy. But I definitely see fully adjustable controls in its future.
Are the SPL arms worth the price?

You think I bought the arms to "stance"?
SPL makes amazing products. Adjustability is awesome. Ability to get camber out of the car without notching the towers and gaining some roll center back is awesome too.

Here's my stance car at the track.

[davidwarren]

Originally Posted by Kwroz21

Interesting approach. I'll definitely take a look at some like this. Any chance you can pm Barry's contact info?

https://3dmmotorsport.com/

[Kwroz21]

Originally Posted by berns

You think I bought the arms to "stance"?
SPL makes amazing products. Adjustability is awesome. Ability to get camber out of the car without notching the towers and gaining some roll center back is awesome too.

Here's my stance car at the track.

Haha. Very nice.
And you never know these days. Everyone's about that "stance".
I have SPL sway bar end-links. Great stuff. Looks like they maybe able to solve my issues.