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10-11-2011, 11:39 PM | #23 |
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Funny the price quote I got was higher than what is posted in forums just a couple months ago. Not stirring the pot, just saying... That was after an initial email with no response, ever. Sorry guys, need to be a little more on your game...
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10-12-2011, 11:51 AM | #24 | |
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10-12-2011, 01:50 PM | #25 |
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10-12-2011, 01:52 PM | #26 |
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I'm also FBO with the AA FMIC, so my cooling system air flow is more limited than most.
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10-12-2011, 02:19 PM | #27 |
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Good to know. I was looking over ER's options and thought maybe of getting (if I end up purchasing a 1) the dual. But if a single works then I'm okay with that. I won't be doing any professional racing but for fun a handful of times a year.
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10-12-2011, 02:21 PM | #28 |
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Make sure to get the shrouding!
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10-12-2011, 02:33 PM | #29 |
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05-03-2012, 07:47 AM | #31 |
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I run the cpe intercooler and oil cooler combo. For the price of an intercooler, you get both and install is simple since the oil cooler is mounted on top of intercooler
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05-03-2012, 08:46 AM | #32 |
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yes it does
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05-03-2012, 07:44 PM | #33 |
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The Sport Series Oil Cooler (single) can be upgraded later on to the Competition (dual) so go with the Sport first and see if it's enough for you.
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05-03-2012, 07:45 PM | #34 |
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Yes, it does. The factory brake ducting is practically useless so there was really no need to keep it. The only thing it cools is your tires .
Our race car has the Competition Series Oil Coolers with the factory ducts removed. We do not suffer from any brake cooling issues without the ducts. Regards, Fred Su Evolution Racewerks www.evolutionracewerks.com |
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06-02-2012, 02:47 PM | #36 | |
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06-02-2012, 04:22 PM | #37 |
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Hi Gents,
there is another option from Advan performance worth considering. Here are some pics of our Stage 2 kit, both on and off the vehicle. The kit features the use of a Setrab 20 row "Extra-Wide" oil cooler, -10 AN Aeroflow 550 Series "Full-Flow" hose ends and fittings, -10 AN braided nylon hose and a 180 degree fahrenheit external thermostat. Cheers, JD. |
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06-24-2012, 02:24 AM | #39 | |
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Also, what ended up being the final price of your stage 1 and 2 kits? I saw about 3 different prices in the other threads and got confused |
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06-24-2012, 10:33 AM | #40 | |
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I imagine the post I have quoted in italic is the one you were referring to, if not you will find some additional info. We have another local customer who is also running our Stage 2 kit, with very similar results on the track to BMW86, I will ask him for more specifics regarding the temps he saw at another recent track day. I must confess due to the evolution of the two kits, plus the pre-delivery GB we held, the pricing has changed a bit. I am still yet to finalise pricing on the Stage 1 kit, but I can tell you that the Stage 2 oil cooler kit is most definitely locked in at $1,295.00 excluding shipping. "Hey Gents, here is some track data following the installation of our Stage 2 oil cooler kit. FYI, that car is N54 135i with an AT gearbox and is FBO. All the temperatures quoted are obviously in degrees Celsius and on the previous track day, at I believe the same race track, the car went into "limp mode" due to excessive oil temps on a number of occasions." Quote: Originally Posted by BMW86 Justin - if I recall correctly, temps hit 125 degrees momentarily but quickly came down to 120 degrees. The temps would range between 110-120 degrees for the most part, which is a decent result at this track. Also, keep in mind the temp conditions outside were 10 degrees cooler than my last day out at the track at 16.5 degrees which is ideal, imho. No oil temp related limp modes. "Here is another quote from the same customer, that pertains to daily driving." I've driven the car a bit more since then. I'm noticing the car takes a bit longer to warm up now. I assume this is because the thermostat is working as soon as you start the car? The highest temp I get on the street is 110 degrees, but this is only driving around town or in start/stop traffic. It does take at least 30 minutes of driving to get up to those temps though. On the highway it usually sits between 85-95 degrees. I don't ever recall hitting 120 degrees on the street and if I go to say 110-115 degrees, it drops back down to around 100 degrees fairly quickly. The conditions are a lot better as we are in winter but we've still had a few 18-19 degree days so it's not exactly freezing cold either. The 'normal' range seems to be 90-110 degrees when the car is fully warmed up. Before, I would sit between 110-120 degees. The setup is definitely doing its job. Cheers, JD Last edited by Justin@ADVAN Performance; 06-24-2012 at 10:40 AM.. Reason: Typo |
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10-06-2012, 07:59 PM | #41 |
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So did anyone really find out what is the best way to go for reducing oil temps?? Is there any data anyone has compiled from other users and track logs with different oil coolers?
I have tried everything including bigger intercooler, methanol injection, max cool mode on tuner, etc and in the time trial competitions on track I'm still hitting limp mode after half a session. I can go a lot longer now with the methanol but my lap times go down every lap with heat. It seems like the dual oil coolers would be best for racing but any additional info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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10-07-2012, 07:56 PM | #42 |
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I love my ER oil coolers. Although had a hard time with fitment bc ducts were poorly cut and improperly cut looked liked some used a dremel. I except better but my shop got it installed. 800 dollars later.
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08-20-2013, 06:13 AM | #43 |
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Looking for a DIY Guide for the install of the Stett Oil Cooler on a 135i.
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12-08-2013, 05:34 PM | #44 |
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for the us-spec and sport bumper application, can i convert one ducting (passenger side) for an oil cooler and the other ducting (driver side) for for an ATF cooler???
PnP or minimal cutting would be preferred.
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