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01-13-2019, 02:38 AM | #1 |
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Huge oil splatter after changing OFHG
Hey all first post and I hope I'm posting in the correct place. Went to get an oil change done to my 1er and the dealership told me i had a bad leak from my OFHG and it needed to be replaced asap and wanted $1400 total. So I looked up some DIY's and got to it. Went smoothly, I replaced hot and cold side gaskets and bled my coolant system once everything was buttoned back up. On my way home tonight i did some pulls and she pulled just fine but when i pulled up to park i noticed smoke. Popped the hood and oil is everywhere...(just after i cleaned her up last night ) So i let her cool down and checked connections and everything is tight. Oil filter housing isn't moving and all hoses as well are nice and tight. Any ideas what could have caused this? where i should look or what to check other then connections on oil filter housing and cooler housing?
Side note... if anyone could link any DIYs to replace coolant level sensor it would be much appreciated. keep getting low coolant warning but it is at max. Thanks |
01-13-2019, 12:36 PM | #5 |
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No i didn't replace those O rings? Just get oil cooler hose o rings from bmw? Those are the two hoses from the H plate correct? Appreciate the feedback.
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01-13-2019, 01:02 PM | #6 |
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01-14-2019, 08:43 PM | #7 |
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i didnt replace those and mine leaked but very minor but i guess some gaskets vary on how they change shapes due to the hot/cold cycle. My bet is somehow someway the gasket didnt get a perfect seal and is causing this leak. That is an excessive amount of oil My oil cooler lines were only sweating oil from not replacing them
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02-09-2019, 02:20 AM | #8 |
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Might be a good idea to replace the serpentine belt and thoroughly degrease the engine bay, especially all the rubber coolant hoses and they will swell a lot with prolonged oil contact.
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02-09-2019, 07:31 AM | #9 |
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agree, this is a huge ounce of prevention. not a bad idea to replace the tension pulley too.
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02-12-2019, 08:23 AM | #11 |
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Did you replace the aluminum bolts with new ones? The old bolts won't torque down correctly. Also notice the OFHG kit from FCP Euro:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...11428637821kt2 This kit solves the problem without any additional parts. |
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02-14-2019, 07:53 AM | #13 |
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Change your belt. I had an oil cooler line fail and shoot oil all over a BRAND NEW belt and not even a week later it snapped and the engine ate it. It's not worth the risk over the price of a new belt. It's a ton more work to replace the front crank seal and drop the oil pan than just throwing on a new $30 belt.
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02-15-2019, 10:34 AM | #14 |
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Wrong!
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02-15-2019, 07:34 PM | #15 |
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If you replace the belt make sure the pulleys and anything else the belt contacts are clean. It may or not be the oil on the belt that is an issue, i.e degrading it, but instead the oil on the interface between the belt and pulleys causing it to slip off.
I think too the bolts are steel but would also there suggest checking them with a magnet to be sure (if it sticks they are steel if not they are aluminum and shouldn't be reused). An important area of course for torquing correctly when a gasket is squished in the middle. |
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02-16-2019, 04:48 AM | #16 | |
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Oil filter housing bolts are steel. Even on the first generation N52 they are steel. N55 sump does have aluminium bolts Only sure way is the magnet test which is also advisable before removing a fastener so you know how much strife you'll be in when it flies into the abyss |
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02-16-2019, 05:38 AM | #17 | |
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Quote:
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