Road to 400HP

Clainer98 · 03-21-2019, 11:11 PM

So I recently invested in a 2008 BMW 135i with 100k miles on it now it is approaching 120k miles and I've done some modifications like after market VRSF cone intake along with a aluminum charge pipe and a Tial BOV. I've got the car on lowering springs and have a custom exhaust with a resonator and muffler delete. I also have 18" Element wheels running 235s in the back and 225s up front.

Never had the car on a dyno but wondering about what HP I'm making now and what my next modification should be? I'm leaning to installing an intercooler probably the VFSF 7" performance FMIC and maybe investing in a Cobb or a JB4.

What are you opinions? I want to keep the car to the point where I can still daily drive it and not have to worry about an e85 setup or meth injection.

xQx · 03-21-2019, 11:34 PM

You'll need downpipes and MHD.

The MHD Stage 2 flash with your mods above plus downpipes will get you to about 380whp - which is well over 400hp at the crank. The easiest way to get above 400hp at the wheels is to mix in 25% E85 and run the MHD E25 flash.

If you can pick up a JB4 for about $100, that'll save you buying the MHD monitor or MHD Maps licenses and give you some nice JB4 features in addition to the MHD features (it'll be cheaper than going pure MHD).

I wouldn't bother with cobb, but the VRSF FMIC is a good idea.

Really what's holding you back at the moment is your OEM downpipes and Stock flash.

Clainer98 · 03-22-2019, 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xQx

You'll need downpipes and MHD.

The MHD Stage 2 flash with your mods above plus downpipes will get you to about 380whp - which is well over 400hp at the crank. The easiest way to get above 400hp at the wheels is to mix in 25% E85 and run the MHD E25 flash.

If you can pick up a JB4 for about $100, that'll save you buying the MHD monitor or MHD Maps licenses and give you some nice JB4 features in addition to the MHD features (it'll be cheaper than going pure MHD).

I wouldn't bother with cobb, but the VRSF FMIC is a good idea.

Really what's holding you back at the moment is your OEM downpipes and Stock flash.

I already have down pipes, forgot to include it in the mods list, so the next step is JB4 and FMIC. Im also afraid that when I install the JB4 Im going to get a whole lotta misfire messages.

mfindigital · 03-22-2019, 12:12 PM

If you're worried about issues just get MHD and and FMIC. Gets the power you want as mentioned for very little effort and pretty trouble free mods.

Clainer98 · 03-22-2019, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mfindigital

If you're worried about issues just get MHD and and FMIC. Gets the power you want as mentioned for very little effort and pretty trouble free mods.

So whats the difference between a MHD flash and a JB4? I understand that they connect up to your car different one being a external flash and one being a piggy back. Whats the difference in tune ability?

Clainer98 · 03-22-2019, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mfindigital

If you're worried about issues just get MHD and and FMIC. Gets the power you want as mentioned for very little effort and pretty trouble free mods.

So whats the difference between a MHD flash and a JB4? I understand that they connect up to your car different one being a external flash and one being a piggy back. Whats the difference in tune ability?

xQx · 03-22-2019, 04:10 PM

So, you're going to get a whole lot of misfire messages if your spark plugs, injectors or coils can't handle the extra load. It's equally likely to happen with MHD as it is with JB4.

The difference is the MHD re-flashes your OEM ECU with a new tune. The JB4 is a piggyback module so it can increase the boost without flashing your ECU.

But the JB4 has two modes of operation, you can run it with the OEM tune, which nobody does these days because it's not very good. Or, you run the JB4 backend flash - which you flash onto your ECU using the MHD software.

So your options in 2019 are:

1) Run the BMS backend flash with the JB4 piggyback computer
2) Run the MHD backend flash alone.

Either way, you'll need to use the MHD software to flash your ECU.

... and when the JB4 was a $1,000 item, MHD used to be the best choice because it was every bit as good for half the price.

... but now that you can generally pick up a JB4 for $100 or $150 - it gives you the same functionality (if not more) as the MHD 'only' option for cheaper.

MN.BIMMER · 03-22-2019, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xQx

So, you're going to get a whole lot of misfire messages if your spark plugs, injectors or coils can't handle the extra load. It's equally likely to happen with MHD as it is with JB4.

The difference is the MHD re-flashes your OEM ECU with a new tune. The JB4 is a piggyback module so it can increase the boost without flashing your ECU.

But the JB4 has two modes of operation, you can run it with the OEM tune, which nobody does these days because it's not very good. Or, you run the JB4 backend flash - which you flash onto your ECU using the MHD software.

So your options in 2019 are:

1) Run the BMS backend flash with the JB4 piggyback computer
2) Run the MHD backend flash alone.

Either way, you'll need to use the MHD software to flash your ECU.

... and when the JB4 was a $1,000 item, MHD used to be the best choice because it was every bit as good for half the price.

... but now that you can generally pick up a JB4 for $100 or $150 - it gives you the same functionality (if not more) as the MHD 'only' option for cheaper.

And 2012+ need their DME removed and unlocked still, right?

xQx · 03-22-2019, 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MN.BIMMER

Quote:

Originally Posted by xQx

So, you're going to get a whole lot of misfire messages if your spark plugs, injectors or coils can't handle the extra load. It's equally likely to happen with MHD as it is with JB4.

The difference is the MHD re-flashes your OEM ECU with a new tune. The JB4 is a piggyback module so it can increase the boost without flashing your ECU.

But the JB4 has two modes of operation, you can run it with the OEM tune, which nobody does these days because it's not very good. Or, you run the JB4 backend flash - which you flash onto your ECU using the MHD software.

So your options in 2019 are:

1) Run the BMS backend flash with the JB4 piggyback computer
2) Run the MHD backend flash alone.

Either way, you'll need to use the MHD software to flash your ECU.

... and when the JB4 was a $1,000 item, MHD used to be the best choice because it was every bit as good for half the price.

... but now that you can generally pick up a JB4 for $100 or $150 - it gives you the same functionality (if not more) as the MHD 'only' option for cheaper.

And 2012+ need their DME removed and unlocked still, right?

OP has a 2008, and so do I

So as I understand it - yes - some newer DME's need to be removed and unlocked before you can do your first flash.

For people in this situation putting up with a JB4 piggyback only tune is certainly better than nothing (especially given how cheap a second hand JB4 is) - but there are lots of people who can unlock your DME now - I think it's worth the effort.

The reason I prefer JB4 over cobb is BMS are still supporting / developing the platform, whereas Cobb gave up years ago, and a JB4 isn't locked to a specific car - so you can easily sell it when you're done.

Also, there are so many JB4's around they're dirt cheap.

MN.BIMMER · 03-22-2019, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xQx

Quote:

Originally Posted by MN.BIMMER

Quote:

Originally Posted by xQx

So, you're going to get a whole lot of misfire messages if your spark plugs, injectors or coils can't handle the extra load. It's equally likely to happen with MHD as it is with JB4.

The difference is the MHD re-flashes your OEM ECU with a new tune. The JB4 is a piggyback module so it can increase the boost without flashing your ECU.

But the JB4 has two modes of operation, you can run it with the OEM tune, which nobody does these days because it's not very good. Or, you run the JB4 backend flash - which you flash onto your ECU using the MHD software.

So your options in 2019 are:

1) Run the BMS backend flash with the JB4 piggyback computer
2) Run the MHD backend flash alone.

Either way, you'll need to use the MHD software to flash your ECU.

... and when the JB4 was a $1,000 item, MHD used to be the best choice because it was every bit as good for half the price.

... but now that you can generally pick up a JB4 for $100 or $150 - it gives you the same functionality (if not more) as the MHD 'only' option for cheaper.

And 2012+ need their DME removed and unlocked still, right?

OP has a 2008, and so do I

So as I understand it - yes - some newer DME's need to be removed and unlocked before you can do your first flash.

For people in this situation putting up with a JB4 piggyback only tune is certainly better than nothing (especially given how cheap a second hand JB4 is) - but there are lots of people who can unlock your DME now - I think it's worth the effort.

The reason I prefer JB4 over cobb is BMS are still supporting / developing the platform, whereas Cobb gave up years ago, and a JB4 isn't locked to a specific car - so you can easily sell it when you're done.

Also, there are so many JB4's around they're dirt cheap.

Right, my newly acquired car came with JB4, not sure if it has the BMS BEF. Should probably check that out and remove/flash the DME if it hasn't been done already.

So much to learn on the N54/55 platform, I love it.

xQx · 03-22-2019, 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MN.BIMMER

Quote:

Originally Posted by xQx

Quote:

Originally Posted by MN.BIMMER

Quote:

Originally Posted by xQx

So, you're going to get a whole lot of misfire messages if your spark plugs, injectors or coils can't handle the extra load. It's equally likely to happen with MHD as it is with JB4.

The difference is the MHD re-flashes your OEM ECU with a new tune. The JB4 is a piggyback module so it can increase the boost without flashing your ECU.

But the JB4 has two modes of operation, you can run it with the OEM tune, which nobody does these days because it's not very good. Or, you run the JB4 backend flash - which you flash onto your ECU using the MHD software.

So your options in 2019 are:

1) Run the BMS backend flash with the JB4 piggyback computer
2) Run the MHD backend flash alone.

Either way, you'll need to use the MHD software to flash your ECU.

... and when the JB4 was a $1,000 item, MHD used to be the best choice because it was every bit as good for half the price.

... but now that you can generally pick up a JB4 for $100 or $150 - it gives you the same functionality (if not more) as the MHD 'only' option for cheaper.

And 2012+ need their DME removed and unlocked still, right?

OP has a 2008, and so do I

So as I understand it - yes - some newer DME's need to be removed and unlocked before you can do your first flash.

For people in this situation putting up with a JB4 piggyback only tune is certainly better than nothing (especially given how cheap a second hand JB4 is) - but there are lots of people who can unlock your DME now - I think it's worth the effort.

The reason I prefer JB4 over cobb is BMS are still supporting / developing the platform, whereas Cobb gave up years ago, and a JB4 isn't locked to a specific car - so you can easily sell it when you're done.

Also, there are so many JB4's around they're dirt cheap.

Right, my newly acquired car came with JB4, not sure if it has the BMS BEF. Should probably check that out and remove/flash the DME if it hasn't been done already.

So much to learn on the N54/55 platform, I love it.

the easy way to tell is to go into menu 4 on the JB4 using your steering wheel controls, and see what it's set to.

3 = no backend flash
2 = backend flash

if it's set to 3, you're going to get more power and a much smoother torque curve if you flash the DME.

MN.BIMMER · 03-22-2019, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xQx

the easy way to tell is to go into menu 4 on the JB4 using your steering wheel controls, and see what it's set to.

3 = no backend flash
2 = backend flash

if it's set to 3, you're going to get more power and a much smoother torque curve if you flash the DME.

I haven't had too much wheel time this week, I got delivered on Tuesday and life got in the way. From what I can tell, it's been very linear, similar to the v8 I'm leaving behind soon.

Really appreciate the tip though, I'll probably take a quick spin tonight and check it out.

Clainer98 · 03-24-2019, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MN.BIMMER

Quote:

Originally Posted by xQx

the easy way to tell is to go into menu 4 on the JB4 using your steering wheel controls, and see what it's set to.

3 = no backend flash
2 = backend flash

if it's set to 3, you're going to get more power and a much smoother torque curve if you flash the DME.

I haven't had too much wheel time this week, I got delivered on Tuesday and life got in the way. From what I can tell, it's been very linear, similar to the v8 I'm leaving behind soon.

Really appreciate the tip though, I'll probably take a quick spin tonight and check it out.

Which one would be better Cobb AP or the JB4? I like the fact that you can remove the Cobb like it never even happened and the fact that you don't have to "break seals". On the contrary the JB4 has cool features like gauge Hijacking and TPMS decoding. Can someone show me where they have found a JB4 for 150$

:

mfindigital · 03-25-2019, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clainer98

Which one would be better Cobb AP or the JB4? I like the fact that you can remove the Cobb like it never even happened and the fact that you don't have to "break seals". On the contrary the JB4 has cool features like gauge Hijacking and TPMS decoding. Can someone show me where they have found a JB4 for 150$

:

MHD is the answer you're looking for. It's just a flash, can be flashed back to stock in 3-4 minutes and no one will be the wiser. Stage 2+ with supporting mods will get you the power you want.

Clainer98 · 03-25-2019, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mfindigital

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clainer98

Which one would be better Cobb AP or the JB4? I like the fact that you can remove the Cobb like it never even happened and the fact that you don't have to "break seals". On the contrary the JB4 has cool features like gauge Hijacking and TPMS decoding. Can someone show me where they have found a JB4 for 150$

:

MHD is the answer you're looking for. It's just a flash, can be flashed back to stock in 3-4 minutes and no one will be the wiser. Stage 2+ with supporting mods will get you the power you want.

Who's the best bang for your buck when it comes to MHD flashing?

mfindigital · 03-25-2019, 02:38 PM

You just buy it through the Google app store. It just an app you download onto your phone. Once you download the app, you can download the maps you need and the MHD flasher (and monitoring tool if you want). I purchased the flasher, and since then have purchased stage 1 maps and stage 2 maps. The maps are 50$, I think the flasher is like 150 or so.

I am stage 2 plus and fbo (mods in signature). I'd feel really comfortable saying that I make 400hp at the crank, probably around 350ish to the wheels right now, and the car is a rocket that rips through the tires in 1st-3rd gear. Probably runs low 12s on good tires.

Clainer98 · 03-25-2019, 08:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mfindigital

You just buy it through the Google app store. It just an app you download onto your phone. Once you download the app, you can download the maps you need and the MHD flasher (and monitoring tool if you want). I purchased the flasher, and since then have purchased stage 1 maps and stage 2 maps. The maps are 50$, I think the flasher is like 150 or so.

I am stage 2 plus and fbo (mods in signature). I'd feel really comfortable saying that I make 400hp at the crank, probably around 350ish to the wheels right now, and the car is a rocket that rips through the tires in 1st-3rd gear. Probably runs low 12s on good tires.

You said (mods in signature) but I can't seem to find your signature?

mfindigital · 03-26-2019, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clainer98

You said (mods in signature) but I can't seem to find your signature?

2011 Space Grey 135i, DCT MSport Suspension, Berk Street Axle Back, MHD Stage 2+, VRSF Catless DP, VRSF 5" STEPPED FMIC, VRSF LCP, BMS UCP.

Keep in mind i'm n55. So you'll make more power with these same mods than I do.

Clainer98 · 03-26-2019, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mfindigital

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clainer98

You said (mods in signature) but I can't seem to find your signature?

2011 Space Grey 135i, DCT MSport Suspension, Berk Street Axle Back, MHD Stage 2+, VRSF Catless DP, VRSF 5" STEPPED FMIC, VRSF LCP, BMS UCP.

Keep in mind i'm n55. So you'll make more power with these same mods than I do.

So how much HP are you making and do you have any pictures of your car?

inevitab1e · 04-08-2019, 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clainer98

So how much HP are you making and do you have any pictures of your car?

My guess is your car is making around 300whp. That's with your current mods.

0nePutt · 04-19-2019, 12:35 PM

100K is a lot for the N54 turbos, Im hoping you have addressed the wastegate actuator arm. Do you have any rattle in decel/low rpm revs?

Clainer98 · 04-19-2019, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 0nePutt

100K is a lot for the N54 turbos, Im hoping you have addressed the wastegate actuator arm. Do you have any rattle in decel/low rpm revs?

I'm sorry I forgot to say that the turbos were replaced at 80k miles. Thanks for the concern though!

03-21-2019, 11:11 PM	#1
Clainer98 Enlisted Member 3 Rep 34 Posts Drives: 2008 BMW 135i Join Date: Mar 2019 Location: South Carolina iTrader: (0) Garage List 2008 BMW 135i [0.00]	Road to 400HP So I recently invested in a 2008 BMW 135i with 100k miles on it now it is approaching 120k miles and I've done some modifications like after market VRSF cone intake along with a aluminum charge pipe and a Tial BOV. I've got the car on lowering springs and have a custom exhaust with a resonator and muffler delete. I also have 18" Element wheels running 235s in the back and 225s up front. Never had the car on a dyno but wondering about what HP I'm making now and what my next modification should be? I'm leaning to installing an intercooler probably the VFSF 7" performance FMIC and maybe investing in a Cobb or a JB4. What are you opinions? I want to keep the car to the point where I can still daily drive it and not have to worry about an e85 setup or meth injection.
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03-21-2019, 11:34 PM	#2
xQx General 903 Rep 1,003 Posts Drives: 2008 BMW 135i (E88 N54 6AT) Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Sunshine Coast QLD Australia iTrader: (0)	You'll need downpipes and MHD. The MHD Stage 2 flash with your mods above plus downpipes will get you to about 380whp - which is well over 400hp at the crank. The easiest way to get above 400hp at the wheels is to mix in 25% E85 and run the MHD E25 flash. If you can pick up a JB4 for about $100, that'll save you buying the MHD monitor or MHD Maps licenses and give you some nice JB4 features in addition to the MHD features (it'll be cheaper than going pure MHD). I wouldn't bother with cobb, but the VRSF FMIC is a good idea. Really what's holding you back at the moment is your OEM downpipes and Stock flash.
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03-22-2019, 12:12 PM	#4
mfindigital Lieutenant 349 Rep 574 Posts Drives: 2011 135i Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: los angeles iTrader: (0)	If you're worried about issues just get MHD and and FMIC. Gets the power you want as mentioned for very little effort and pretty trouble free mods. __________________ 2011 Space Grey 135i DCT: Pure Stage 2, Fuel-it Stage 2 LPFP, ST XTA Coilovers, Berk Street Axle Back, MHD Stage 2+, VRSF Catless DP, VRSF 5" FMIC, VRSF LCP, BMS UCP, M3 FSB, e92 M3 Drivers Seat.
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03-22-2019, 04:10 PM	#7
xQx General 903 Rep 1,003 Posts Drives: 2008 BMW 135i (E88 N54 6AT) Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Sunshine Coast QLD Australia iTrader: (0)	So, you're going to get a whole lot of misfire messages if your spark plugs, injectors or coils can't handle the extra load. It's equally likely to happen with MHD as it is with JB4. The difference is the MHD re-flashes your OEM ECU with a new tune. The JB4 is a piggyback module so it can increase the boost without flashing your ECU. But the JB4 has two modes of operation, you can run it with the OEM tune, which nobody does these days because it's not very good. Or, you run the JB4 backend flash - which you flash onto your ECU using the MHD software. So your options in 2019 are: 1) Run the BMS backend flash with the JB4 piggyback computer 2) Run the MHD backend flash alone. Either way, you'll need to use the MHD software to flash your ECU. ... and when the JB4 was a $1,000 item, MHD used to be the best choice because it was every bit as good for half the price. ... but now that you can generally pick up a JB4 for $100 or $150 - it gives you the same functionality (if not more) as the MHD 'only' option for cheaper.
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03-25-2019, 02:38 PM	#16
mfindigital Lieutenant 349 Rep 574 Posts Drives: 2011 135i Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: los angeles iTrader: (0)	You just buy it through the Google app store. It just an app you download onto your phone. Once you download the app, you can download the maps you need and the MHD flasher (and monitoring tool if you want). I purchased the flasher, and since then have purchased stage 1 maps and stage 2 maps. The maps are 50$, I think the flasher is like 150 or so. I am stage 2 plus and fbo (mods in signature). I'd feel really comfortable saying that I make 400hp at the crank, probably around 350ish to the wheels right now, and the car is a rocket that rips through the tires in 1st-3rd gear. Probably runs low 12s on good tires. __________________ 2011 Space Grey 135i DCT: Pure Stage 2, Fuel-it Stage 2 LPFP, ST XTA Coilovers, Berk Street Axle Back, MHD Stage 2+, VRSF Catless DP, VRSF 5" FMIC, VRSF LCP, BMS UCP, M3 FSB, e92 M3 Drivers Seat.
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04-19-2019, 12:35 PM	#21
0nePutt New Member 7 Rep 18 Posts Drives: 135is, GS430 Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: New Jersey iTrader: (0)	100K is a lot for the N54 turbos, Im hoping you have addressed the wastegate actuator arm. Do you have any rattle in decel/low rpm revs?
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