BMW 135i Suspension

[BrodyShuffles]

Originally Posted by asbrr

I'd say they are roughly equivalent. But if you're talking about looking for better body control/performance because you're increasing power on the car, then these should not be where you look.

The problem with suspension is it's very difficult to get everything, it's usually a case of "ride, handling, price - choose 2" type of decision.

Yea I know what you're saying. I assumed that's how it was. I was thinking of just putting the the B4's if they're better then OEM for the time being because they're pretty cheap. Once the mods are done I can see how everything is from there because my suspension is shot right now. If these aren't the ones to look at like you said what are?

[asbrr]

Originally Posted by Mason1327

Yea I know what you're saying. I assumed that's how it was. I was thinking of just putting the the B4's if they're better then OEM for the time being because they're pretty cheap. Once the mods are done I can see how everything is from there because my suspension is shot right now. If these aren't the ones to look at like you said what are?

I mean you could put them on and re-evaluate once you've done your other mods - as you say they are cheap and will be an improvement over blown stock ones. Issue is you're paying for labour multiple times, especially if you decide to upgrade later - not to mention you may decide to upgrade springs also.

If you are dead set on increasing the power and can handle a stiffer/slightly lower ride but don't want to go whole hog and buy coilovers, you should look at a well matched set of springs and dampers, maybe a Bilstein B12 kit or similar Koni based kit. I would suggest adding Dinan fixed camber plates up front with the B12 kit, that will raise the front 5mm and even out the suspension rake front to back, and add a bit of camber for front end grip.

This will ride stiffer than stock, but will have better body control. You should still purchase some of those rubber parts to swap out as well, total cost around $1000 USD for parts + labour. That's really an entry level performance upgrade solution....you can see how this is a slippery slope.

If you don't want to go that far, want to keep ride height the same, want to improve performance a little bit (compared to functioning stock dampers), and not blow the bank something like Koni Active Sport is a decent solution. And then you should just stop thinking about it....otherwise you go down a rabbit hole of never ending tinkering etc etc...like most of us on here.

[BrodyShuffles]

Originally Posted by asbrr

I mean you could put them on and re-evaluate once you've done your other mods - as you say they are cheap and will be an improvement over blown stock ones. Issue is you're paying for labour multiple times, especially if you decide to upgrade later - not to mention you may decide to upgrade springs also.

If you are dead set on increasing the power and can handle a stiffer/slightly lower ride but don't want to go whole hog and buy coilovers, you should look at a well matched set of springs and dampers, maybe a Bilstein B12 kit or similar Koni based kit. I would suggest adding Dinan fixed camber plates up front with the B12 kit, that will raise the front 5mm and even out the suspension rake front to back, and add a bit of camber for front end grip.

This will ride stiffer than stock, but will have better body control. You should still purchase some of those rubber parts to swap out as well, total cost around $1000 USD for parts + labour. That's really an entry level performance upgrade solution....you can see how this is a slippery slope.

If you don't want to go that far, want to keep ride height the same, want to improve performance a little bit (compared to functioning stock dampers), and not blow the bank something like Koni Active Sport is a decent solution. And then you should just stop thinking about it....otherwise you go down a rabbit hole of never ending tinkering etc etc...like most of us on here.

Yea that makes sense. I just can't lower the car. It's already pretty low and I don't want to scrape the bumper on things. That's why I was leaning toward B4/B6 bc they don't involve lowering the car like B8's or B12's.

[asbrr]

Originally Posted by Mason1327

Yea that makes sense. I just can't lower the car. It's already pretty low and I don't want to scrape the bumper on things. That's why I was leaning toward B4/B6 bc they don't involve lowering the car like B8's or B12's.

Then it's relatively simple:

- B4 w/ stock springs if you want cheap, similar ride to stock
- Koni Active Sport w/ stock springs if you want somewhat cheap, better ride than stock, minor upgrade in handling/body control
- B6 (or Koni Yellow) w/ stock springs if relatively cheap, stiffer ride (depending on the type of bumps/road) but better performance and body control
- Coilover that allows height adjustment close to stock (may types and price point)

[BrodyShuffles]

Originally Posted by asbrr

Then it's relatively simple:

- B4 w/ stock springs if you want cheap, similar ride to stock
- Koni Active Sport w/ stock springs if you want somewhat cheap, better ride than stock, minor upgrade in handling/body control
- B6 (or Koni Yellow) w/ stock springs if relatively cheap, stiffer ride (depending on the type of bumps/road) but better performance and body control
- Coilover that allows height adjustment close to stock (may types and price point)

Appreciate it.. You've been a great help. Ill update you when I'm done and tell you how it went

[Luftmeister]

Originally Posted by Mason1327

Appreciate it.. You've been a great help. Ill update you when I'm done and tell you how it went

Good luck 007!

I'm in a similar situation and you guys are very helpful. I have 68k on my 11 and I'm sure I want to go with the B6's. With that much on the ODO I'm not sure that I would need to do the ECS kit?

I'd rather spend the money on the bushing replacement route.

OP: Food for thought, it will cost more but I've not found ANYone who said doing the bushings isn't worth it. It's a royal PITA and not for the weak of heart (so I'm told). If you don't want to tackle the struts/shocks by yourself you will have to hire this out.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...33326763092kt/

Regards,

[dtla1]

Originally Posted by Luftmeister

Good luck 007!

I'm in a similar situation and you guys are very helpful. I have 68k on my 11 and I'm sure I want to go with the B6's. With that much on the ODO I'm not sure that I would need to do the ECS kit?

I'd rather spend the money on the bushing replacement route.

OP: Food for thought, it will cost more but I've not found ANYone who said doing the bushings isn't worth it. It's a royal PITA and not for the weak of heart (so I'm told). If you don't want to tackle the struts/shocks by yourself you will have to hire this out.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...33326763092kt/

Regards,

Would recommend a 2 piece subframe bushing replacement kit (I have Whiteline, no regrets), and the M rear upper control arm kit rather than having to press out and in all those bushings. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-trw-part...3322283547kt4/

[Ftpohyeah]

Originally Posted by Mason1327

So I have a 2008 BMW 135i. It has around 115k miles on it, and my tires are starting to rub. Overall I can feel the car is not a tight and planted as before in general. My mechanic told me I needed new struts and shocks. The dealer told me for OEM replacement suspension it is around $2200. So now my question is what is the better option aftermarket or OEM? I daily the car and the roads where I live are terrible. So I want something that is good for daily driving but still firm for the good handling and what not. Also I don't think Ill have this car for more then 3 more years at the max. Let me know what's the best option here. Thank you.

My 135i was in the same situation. I replaced the struts and shocks to blistein b6 performance, not the adjustable ones. I also replaced the rear subframe mounts. The car feels SO much more stable and planted when tossing it around. It handles the shit roads ny has daily NO PROBLEM. Very comfortable ride in fact and it just eats curves.

[thez99]

I can't honestly see the point in spending nearly $700 on bushings along.. Not trashing the parts by any means, but when the rear M3 arm kit is $200 less, that is where the majority of the difference is going to come from in the rear.

I'm too considering a swap to B6's all around, I've used the FSD's on my previous 2010 135i and had some installation issues including odd noises and harsh ride over bumps which could've been a combo of install and or parts but it kinda turned me off Konis.

I'm def not lowering the car as I dont feel it needs it, I just really want to balance out the handling and get rid of most of the stock bounciness and slop. I can notice it more now after driving my previous GTI for 2 years before this. Kind of surprising that the GTI felt like it handled quicker and tighter than the 1er...Specially the 135i msport, though there's a 5 year difference and obviously different drivetrain, etc.

I'm still getting used to the 1er again..Things I now remember loving so much about the 135i like the insane stock power and sexiness, and also some things I remember disliking (though few there are) like the sloppy higher speed handling and odd seat position to the pedals

[NBGV]

Originally Posted by asbrr

I mean you could put them on and re-evaluate once you've done your other mods - as you say they are cheap and will be an improvement over blown stock ones. Issue is you're paying for labour multiple times, especially if you decide to upgrade later - not to mention you may decide to upgrade springs also.

If you are dead set on increasing the power and can handle a stiffer/slightly lower ride but don't want to go whole hog and buy coilovers, you should look at a well matched set of springs and dampers, maybe a Bilstein B12 kit or similar Koni based kit. I would suggest adding Dinan fixed camber plates up front with the B12 kit, that will raise the front 5mm and even out the suspension rake front to back, and add a bit of camber for front end grip.

This will ride stiffer than stock, but will have better body control. You should still purchase some of those rubber parts to swap out as well, total cost around $1000 USD for parts + labour. That's really an entry level performance upgrade solution....you can see how this is a slippery slope.

If you don't want to go that far, want to keep ride height the same, want to improve performance a little bit (compared to functioning stock dampers), and not blow the bank something like Koni Active Sport is a decent solution. And then you should just stop thinking about it....otherwise you go down a rabbit hole of never ending tinkering etc etc...like most of us on here.

Omg, thanks for this info!

[adrianconst76]

I'm looking to buy a set of yellow koni shocks and struts for my 135i. Does anybody have any idea if the shocks can be adjusted without removing them (I know I have to remove the trunk liner to have access to the top of the shock)?
I'm asking this because I saw a Youtube video where a guy was adjusting the shocks by first compressing them all the way down.

[thez99]

Originally Posted by adrianconst76

I'm looking to buy a set of yellow koni shocks and struts for my 135i. Does anybody have any idea if the shocks can be adjusted without removing them (I know I have to remove the trunk liner to have access to the top of the shock)?
I'm asking this because I saw a Youtube video where a guy was adjusting the shocks by first compressing them all the way down.

I have a feeling you have to at least jack that end up enough to take the load off the shock, but don't quote me on that.

[asbrr]

Originally Posted by adrianconst76

I'm looking to buy a set of yellow koni shocks and struts for my 135i. Does anybody have any idea if the shocks can be adjusted without removing them (I know I have to remove the trunk liner to have access to the top of the shock)?
I'm asking this because I saw a Youtube video where a guy was adjusting the shocks by first compressing them all the way down.

The standard Koni yellows need to be removed pretty sure (for the rear, front is easy and done while on the car). TC Kline makes custom valved ones that you can get remote cables punched through your trunk liner to adjust with.

[gjm120]

Originally Posted by adrianconst76

I'm looking to buy a set of yellow koni shocks and struts for my 135i. Does anybody have any idea if the shocks can be adjusted without removing them (I know I have to remove the trunk liner to have access to the top of the shock)?
I'm asking this because I saw a Youtube video where a guy was adjusting the shocks by first compressing them all the way down.

I guess in you could compress them enough while installed to adjust, but, it will be difficult and probably inexact. When you compress them it's pretty subtle when the adjuster mechanism grabs internally.

Honestly, the hardest part of removing the rear shocks is the trunk liner R&R.

Fronts are easy - just turn the knob while they're on the car

[adrianconst76]

Thanks guys. I didn't get the answer I was hoping for but I got if fast.
I wonder why koni made the shocks different than the struts. They should adjust in a similar fashion.

[adrianconst76]

Originally Posted by thez99

I have a feeling you have to at least jack that end up enough to take the load off the shock, but don't quote me on that.

Well, what's the point of taking the load off if I need to compress the shock anyway to adjust it? I imagine the way the shock is adjusted is by closing or opening up a valve. In static conditions where there is no flow through the valve it shouldn't matter if there is any load on the shock.

[Luftmeister]

I really want the B12 kit based on the opinions here and want more performance. The roads are pretty good where I live. I don't daily drive it, more of a weekend fun car and occasional autox (fun, not hyper-competitive). I'm really worried about ruining the ride and is that anyone's opinion? The stock struts stink and I just hit 70k.

I know the B12 kit is well-matched but has anyone done a B8 with the H&Rs?

TIA

[thez99]

Originally Posted by Luftmeister

I really want the B12 kit based on the opinions here and want more performance. The roads are pretty good where I live. I don't daily drive it, more of a weekend fun car and occasional autox (fun, not hyper-competitive). I'm really worried about ruining the ride and is that anyone's opinion? The stock struts stink and I just hit 70k.

I know the B12 kit is well-matched but has anyone done a B8 with the H&Rs?

TIA

I always thought the b12 kit was fairly similar to the m sport suspension? Almost like stock replacement.

[Luftmeister]

Originally Posted by thez99

I always thought the b12 kit was fairly similar to the m sport suspension? Almost like stock replacement.

Thanks!

[asbrr]

@Luftmeister

The B12 Kit is not like stock M sport. It's probably 15mm lower. The M-performance suspension is about 10mm lower than M-Sport as a comparison.

The B12 kit is B8s with Eibachs, the B6s are almost exactly the same damper but with a longer shock body - they are meant to be used with stock springs/springs that are NOT lower. There has been a lot of debate on if the M sport springs should be matched to B8s or B6s. People on here have both combos with good results. Bilstein technically says even the M-sport springs should be matched to B8s because they are lower than non M-sport....but there is some debate.

Bilstein B4 dampers are closer to an OEM replacement.


As for ride - if you have generally smooth roads, then go for it you will like the kit. Get rid of the runflats if you have them, and choose a tire that is slightly less aggressive and with a softer sidewall if you don't need ultimate grip and response. An example is the Continental ExtremeContactSport - it's a summer/performance tire with good dry and wet grip, but in my experience has a slightly softwer sidewall which provides for a nice ride.

Tires make a big difference (and pressure) on the subtle small / sharp bumps in terms of ride quality.


EDIT: As for H&R springs, not many people here run them with this platform, I had them on my old Audi with Bilsteins. A few people have complained they have too much "rake" meaning the front is lower than the rear. THey are also a bit lower than the Eibachs, which is too low to my taste.

[Luftmeister]

Originally Posted by asbrr

@Luftmeister

The B12 Kit is not like stock M sport. It's probably 15mm lower. The M-performance suspension is about 10mm lower than M-Sport as a comparison.

The B12 kit is B8s with Eibachs, the B6s are almost exactly the same damper but with a longer shock body - they are meant to be used with stock springs/springs that are NOT lower. There has been a lot of debate on if the M sport springs should be matched to B8s or B6s. People on here have both combos with good results. Bilstein technically says even the M-sport springs should be matched to B8s because they are lower than non M-sport....but there is some debate.

Bilstein B4 dampers are closer to an OEM replacement.


As for ride - if you have generally smooth roads, then go for it you will like the kit. Get rid of the runflats if you have them, and choose a tire that is slightly less aggressive and with a softer sidewall if you don't need ultimate grip and response. An example is the Continental ExtremeContactSport - it's a summer/performance tire with good dry and wet grip, but in my experience has a slightly softwer sidewall which provides for a nice ride.

Tires make a big difference (and pressure) on the subtle small / sharp bumps in terms of ride quality.


EDIT: As for H&R springs, not many people here run them with this platform, I had them on my old Audi with Bilsteins. A few people have complained they have too much "rake" meaning the front is lower than the rear. THey are also a bit lower than the Eibachs, which is too low to my taste.

Thanks! I meant to say eibachs.

[Luftmeister]

I run stock wheels and tire sizes. No rub problems?