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      11-17-2017, 12:04 AM   #1
N54guy08
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Unhappy What could cause late boosting?

Hey everyone! I need some help/input before i go any further. Im new to the site and the n54 for the most part. I have a 08 135i, n54, 6mt. All stock with stg1 mhd flash. Recently I had a devistating accident on passenger side that took out all lighting wiring and components , ambient air sensor, and radiator fan wiring. The upside is that nothing in the engine bay was harmed except the oil cooler. The downside is the insurance would only total it out because the damage was more than what i owe. Being a mechanic i decided to fix it myself cuz i love the car too much to let it go.

The car ran perfect before the wreck. After fixing control arms and oil cooler i took it for a spin (all wiring damage as described above has not been attended to yet) and zero power and engine starts missing. Run codes and cyl 1 and 3 are missing. Change those 2 plugs and engine smooth again but still no power. I did more examining and notice the canisters were also damaged so after doing research i bypassed them because i read of many people deleting the cans with no problems. Still nothing. Take another look and thought i found the problem when i noticed the passenger side ic pipe got pulled out during impact (yes, lots of damage but nothing that cant be fixed, so i thought) the o-ring looks fine so i put it back in and everything seemingly clipped back in just fine. The vacuum line to the front wastegate actuator was untouched but was very loose so i changed all vac lines.

Now the car boosts but its random psi levels and usually doesn't start boosting till around 4600 rpm. Changed boost solenoids and didnt help. Used hand vacuum pump to test wastegates and they're fine. Weird thing is that when engine is cold it feels much better and will sometimes start boosting sooner in the rpm band like around 2500rpm but once the engine warms up i cant get boost till alomst 5k rpm and peak is always a different number ranging from 3psi to 11psi. Could it be the ic pipe o-ring even though it looked fine? The car was perfect b4 the wreck. Need some good input please. My only codes are for radiator fan activation and ambient air sensor. No 30ff or anything like that. Dont have a way to do a boost leak test at the moment and i just need some more experienced advice before moving any further. Thanks in advance!

Heres my most recent log. Not sure if its a good enough log though. Let me know if more info is needed

https://datazap.me/u/n54guy135/boost...readthethread:

Last edited by N54guy08; 11-20-2017 at 03:43 PM. Reason: Title change
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      11-17-2017, 01:34 AM   #2
asiflicious
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I know this isn't what you want to hear, but you really should have let insurance total the car. It will never drive the same, not to mention the value of the car went down the drain. Good luck though.
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      11-17-2017, 10:17 AM   #3
N54guy08
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Actually the car drives fine besides the lack of power. Also, i did not buy the car to resell. Lets focus on that lack of power issue. I didn't come on here to talk about insurance (which would have cost me more money in the end if i claimed). Your obviously not the DIY type are you.
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      11-17-2017, 11:39 AM   #4
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Go to BMWCCA site and you'll find that River City Bimmers in Memphis icluudes eastern Arkansas. Their web page has phone numbers of all executive. A call to one of them might get you started on help you need.
When you are a CCA member, you can e-mail Mike Miller (Roundel tech editor) and he usually answers back within 3-6 hours. Roundel also lists 7 people who are technical service advisors, one of whom specializes in engines and high performance.
BMWCCA membership is like $48 a year and includes Roundel magazine every month.
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      11-17-2017, 12:45 PM   #5
N54guy08
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorthernDancer View Post
Go to BMWCCA site and you'll find that River City Bimmers in Memphis icluudes eastern Arkansas. Their web page has phone numbers of all executive. A call to one of them might get you started on help you need.
When you are a CCA member, you can e-mail Mike Miller (Roundel tech editor) and he usually answers back within 3-6 hours. Roundel also lists 7 people who are technical service advisors, one of whom specializes in engines and high performance.
BMWCCA membership is like $48 a year and includes Roundel magazine every month.
Thanks for the advice! Did you get a chance to look at the datazap log i posted? If u did, what is your personal opinion on what the power loss could be? Perhaps i should go ahead and change the ic pipe o-ring anyway even though it looked fine, since it was in fact forced out. Thanks again
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      11-17-2017, 01:04 PM   #6
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No I didn't; I have a 128 so NA and have no experience with N54's. Plus I'm a really old guy so not very understanding of the new technical stuff. Hence, I rely on my BMWCCA membership.
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      11-17-2017, 02:24 PM   #7
N54guy08
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Oh ok gotcha. Thanks anyway
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      11-17-2017, 03:24 PM   #8
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Have you reflashed your map? No codes after replacing those plugs correct?

How certain are you that you don't have a vacuum leak?

How certain are you that you don't have a boost leak? (maybe a cracked intercooler?)

I have a stock turbo outlet pipe thats yours if you want to pay shipping for it. (it has good o rings)

Very strange about it going into power when it should when its cold, but not after heating up.
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      11-17-2017, 03:36 PM   #9
N54guy08
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Very Strange, Also Very Interesting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ThatOneKid View Post
Have you reflashed your map? No codes after replacing those plugs correct?

How certain are you that you don't have a vacuum leak?

How certain are you that you don't have a boost leak? (maybe a cracked intercooler?)

I have a stock turbo outlet pipe thats yours if you want to pay shipping for it. (it has good o rings)

Very strange about it going into power when it should when its cold, but not after heating up.
Yes I've flashed back to stock and same issue. No more codes or misfire after those 2 plugs were changed. I've done many various tests that lead me to believe there are no vac leaks. Checked all piping, inlets, ect. And all seems well but i have no way of doing an actual boost leak test. Yes its weird that it runs better before warming up. Could it be the DME cutting back on boost due to the radiator fan currently not functioning? I have not let coolant temps go above normal though.


So great news. Power is back to normal for the most part and the car feels great again, but it also brings up a few questions. Im not sure what I did! After this thread died without anymore input from anyone, I kept digging deeper. Vac lines, nothing. CP and intercooler O-rings, nothing. I was afraid it was turbos but the WG's closed at 7 inHg and held vacuum which led me to believe it wasn't bad turbos. Desperate attempt, flashed back mhd stg1, still nothing. Started looking closer into parameters of logs, AND HERE'S THE INTERESTING PART. "Throttle closures?! But due to the wreck, passenger side DSC sensors were shattered causing the yellow brake light and yellow triangle w/arrow light and DSC MALFUNCTION message on iDrive screen" shouldn't this mean that traction control is off? So why is it still on, and to what seemed to be AT THE MAXIMUM DEGREE as bad as the throttle was closing to prevent wheelspin. Flashed to mhd stg0 and lowered load through 1st, 2nd, and 3rd and also added the MT shift bog fix (the newest version that actually works) and boom! The car feels great again? Btw, this IS the very short version of a long descriptive story. Feel free to ask any further questions but the car feels great again but I just dont feel like i really did anythig that could have helped the engine response and power that drastically.

Last edited by N54guy08; 09-19-2018 at 05:01 AM. Reason: PROBLEM RESOLVED ( ITSELF? )
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      09-19-2018, 01:05 PM   #10
N54guy08
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asiflicious View Post
I know this isn't what you want to hear, but you really should have let insurance total the car. It will never drive the same, not to mention the value of the car went down the drain. Good luck though.
Nobody will probably see this post or even care, but if you read my update, the problem at hand was resolved. More work still needed (cosmetics, some wiring, coding) but all in all, the car will definitely be restored and drive the same.
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