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      09-08-2016, 12:43 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orangee94 View Post
how does the car feel with the subframe bushings and the ADO8 combo? as you said they worked wonders for stock runflats, so they were even better?
Car felt much much better with the AD08Rs, the sidewalls on run flats are rock hard, the Ad08rs have reinforced sidewalls for track use but they are sooo much softer and more compliant than runflats.

I have since installed Bilsteins, camber plates and M3 front sway which has transformed the handling.
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      09-08-2016, 04:19 AM   #24
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Some extra pics recently taken from the Mt Macedon drive day
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      09-08-2016, 08:55 AM   #25
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Absolutely awesome ride bro! DIY Master
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      09-08-2016, 05:20 PM   #26
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Hey you finally did your own build thread...well done mate.
As expected, the details you put into writing it up and the install is like an Encyclopedia.
Well done

I also love the fact that you have done it to improve the car for both as a DD and a fun Track car.
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      09-09-2016, 01:57 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terminator335i

I also love the fact that you have done it to improve the car for both as a DD and a fun Track car.
be a shame not to these cars are epic daily drivers, that's where they really shine IMO.
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      09-09-2016, 09:05 AM   #28
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M3 Steering wheel

I actually quite like the stock msport steering wheel but felt that the perforations weren't as comfortable as just having a smooth leather wheel.

Picked up an M3 steering wheel from an ebay auction for a bargain basement price. Initially I didn't like it, felt a bit too slippery. After a few days of use it grew on me and I quite like it now. If I didn't get it for such a good price it probably wouldn't have been worth the money though.

The wheel looked in pretty crappy condition when i got it but a good cleanup and it looks really nice now. There's a few scratches on the leather but they're not noticeable when sitting in the drivers seat. I managed to clean the leather and restore the matte look, rather than the disgusting shiny look that comes with all the oils from the previous owners hands.

I had cleaned it but I couldn't get the M tri stitching clean, still looked ugly and tatty and not much colour in them. Spent a few minutes with a toothbrush and some hand soap mixed in a cup with water. Worked wonders and really brings out the colour in the wheel now! Really pleased with how it looks. Gave it another once over with hand soap and its cleaned off all the excess oil left on the wheel and now looking very fresh.


First pic shows how dirty the stitching is

Cleans up so easily, surprised at how effective some hand soap is, don't need no fancy leather cleaner to achieve good results.
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      09-09-2016, 08:31 PM   #29
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Tidy rig
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      09-12-2016, 01:24 AM   #30
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your car is fantastic to drive and it's awesome you do the work yourself
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      09-12-2016, 08:44 PM   #31
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Thanks everyone! I am happy with the car, although there always seems to be something to do on it.

Have a minor vacuum leak that I have to sort out with the brake booster, already replaced the check valve pipe but looks like it might be acting up again.
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      09-12-2016, 09:06 PM   #32
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Suspension mods:

Heres a link to my B12 kit install
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1245723

The handling mods on the car really make the car more enjoyable to drive. Straightline performance is nice but driving the car on a twisty road or racetrack is what is really exciting to me.

Stock suspension setup is garbage on a stock 135i. Totally inadequate for the power and just gets worse as the suspension goes past 100k kms.

I did the mods in this order:

Nolathane Subframe bushings - Locked down the rear end

M3 front control arms + pulled alignment pins - Very expensive for what you get, I only achieved 1 degree of negative camber on both sides on stock suspension. Ultimately these arms are only good with lowered suspension and camber plates.

Yokohama AD08R - Much more comfortable, grip was amazing

Bilstein B12 prokit + Dinan camber plates - Much less body roll, stiffer but more comfortable due to better shocks. Handling felt a lot sharper

After all these mods the car was very capable and nice to drive. But still suffered from massive understeer at the limit, even when not going that fast. I suspect that the Macpherson strut suspension was to blame. It always felt like all front end grip would fall off a cliff after the car leans beyond a certain point.

According to the theory of Macpherson front strut suspension, the camber changes when the suspension is compressed, initially you will gain a little bit of camber and beyond a certain point you will LOSE camber!

M3 Front sway bar

Therefore the common mod is to do an M3 front sway bar to prevent the wheels from reaching that point and losing grip. Scored a great deal on an M3 front sway bar and made a massive difference in the way the car handles. I can say my theory was confirmed and it was a big improvement. At the limit there is much more grip, still has an understeer bias but you have to be going very fast to reach this point. Before the limit, there is a reduction in front end grip, probably 5-10% less grip I'd say. But the tradeoff is worth it.

Downside is that the car is definitely harsher over bumps. Its not much but definitely noticeable. The B12 prokit is already pretty stiff, but just about the stiffest you'd want before getting on your nerves. The front bar just nudges it towards being slightly too stiff for me. I am quite picky and would prefer a more compliant car though. Over uneven roads is the main issue, if the wheels hit the bump at the same time its not as bad but still noticeable. I may change out the bushings in the sway bar with softer ones or polyurethane ones (which would allow the bar to freely rotate). The M3 bushings are very hard rock solid rubber and would resist the twisting of the bar quite a bit on their own.

I was afraid the front end would feel too stiff compared to the rear and did feel a little bit of it when I first put it on. I have gotten used to it but still feel a stiffer rear bar would benefit and even things out a bit. Stock bar is 12mm, the 22.5mm M3 rear bar seems like overkill, I may try an E93 15mm rear bar instead. I feel the twichiness of the 1M may be due to the fact it is using the 22.5mm rear bar which might be a bit too stiff.
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      09-13-2016, 12:55 AM   #33
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Love this thread!

Any thoughts on this vs an E92 M3 front sway-bar?
http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_...r=BBF43&sq=714
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      09-13-2016, 01:21 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walkie86 View Post
Love this thread!

Any thoughts on this vs an E92 M3 front sway-bar?
http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_...r=BBF43&sq=714
Thanks!

Will be a little bit stiffer than the M3 E92 bar. Can put the diameters into a calculator to see the % difference in stiffness. The formula is dominated by the diameter so even a 0.5mm of diameter will be a significant change in stiffness.

Since the E92 bar already prevents the front wheels from losing camber, I don't feel the need for going any stiffer. I believe the front end will just lose more grip with anything stiffer, and could already feel there was a small loss of grip up front until the limit is reached. Unless you replace both sways and have a matching suspension setup, the E92 M3 front bar is the way to go on a 1 series.

Few more things to consider:
- M3 bar is hollow to reduce weight, and the torsional stiffness of a swaybar is dominated by the diameter, making it hollow doesn't reduce the stiffness much at all.
- 2nd hand M3 bars usually come with the brackets and bushings, the brackets are nicer cast aluminium and have stiffer rubber bushings
- Price, M3 bar can be had for cheaper if you watch ebay like a hawk for bargains. I got mine for around $227aud including shipping from ebay (although I spend almost a year looking for one). Came from Germany
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      09-14-2016, 06:27 PM   #35
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Thanks for the details mate. They do seem thin on the ground - have contacted a few wreckers. Probably worth waiting for a 2nd hand one considering the ~$500 price for a new one!
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      09-17-2016, 05:21 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walkie86
Thanks for the details mate. They do seem thin on the ground - have contacted a few wreckers. Probably worth waiting for a 2nd hand one considering the ~$500 price for a new one!
picked up one on ebay for $226 delivered off a wrecked car in the uk.

quite amazed at the difference it makes at the limit. can't believe how much camber McPherson struts lose (or gain depending on which way you want to look at it) in compression.

very easy to install the longest part is taking off the underbelly especially if you don't have power tools. probably about 20-30 screws. as vtl said I don't think there will be much benefit in going any firmer.
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      09-18-2016, 05:47 PM   #37
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Result from the Nizpro dyno day on Saturday, big thanks to tawfeeqh for organising and providing the food!

Great day and could immediately tell Nizpro knew their stuff and have a very well run shop.

Very pleased with the result and was the most powerful car on stock turbos, despite the high kms. Peak numbers don't interest me though, most importantly it had a decent meaty power curve and the AFRs were in check.

Previously dynoed at the Springy Motors at 241kw (Procede tune instead of MHD) and have done a lot of maintenance since then. I know different dynos aren't comparable so here's the link to the thread with some comparable cars:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1278369

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      09-19-2016, 09:18 AM   #38
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@vtl always wondered if you had your own build thread given your the yoda of this n54 platform in Melb. I was a bit foolish only waiting for a thread to pop up on the e90post section lol.

Just had a read through of your build. I love the level of detail you've gone through explaining the mods on your car. I def need the nolathane bushings in my life lol, just need to make time to book in with you along with some other maintenance items. I wished i was as skilled as you, but hey ill keep you company when we work on my car

It was a pleasure organising the dyno day. Nizpro was also happy to have us, they said we were a well behaved bunch

Agree the nizpro workshop is large, tidy and in order. Congratz on taking out highest powered stock turbo for the day
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      09-19-2016, 05:24 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tawfeeqh View Post
@vtl always wondered if you had your own build thread given your the yoda of this n54 platform in Melb. I was a bit foolish only waiting for a thread to pop up on the e90post section lol.

Just had a read through of your build. I love the level of detail you've gone through explaining the mods on your car. I def need the nolathane bushings in my life lol, just need to make time to book in with you along with some other maintenance items. I wished i was as skilled as you, but hey ill keep you company when we work on my car

It was a pleasure organising the dyno day. Nizpro was also happy to have us, they said we were a well behaved bunch

Agree the nizpro workshop is large, tidy and in order. Congratz on taking out highest powered stock turbo for the day
Thanks mate!

Yeah the thread is very new, only created it 2 weeks ago. Contemplated putting it on the e90 aus section but ended up putting it here. Looking forward to some 10s from your car, the bushings should definitely keep it tracking straight under power.
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      09-19-2016, 07:21 PM   #40
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Wagner EVO 1 Performance intercooler

This is a great intercooler, not new as it came with the car when I bought it. I would happily pay the price premium again for this thing. I already had the undertray off and thought I'd remove it to get some pics

A lot of intercoolers advertise bolt on fitment. I can tell you this is a load of crap. This is one of the very few intercoolers that will bolt into the stock location without modifying or cutting anything. Uses the stock oring couplers which are idiot proof and I have found very reliable.

Other intercoolers mostly just have silicone couplers which are cheaper to make but a pain to fit. They require the 1 time use clamps to be cut off on the stock outlets and there is very little space to get a dremel in there. Also a massive pain to do up the clamps with no space to get a wrench in there. To get the lower charge pipe off is extremely difficult on an Auto transmission as there is a heat exchanger bolted to the fan, which prevents the pipe from being removed easily. The radiator fan has to be removed for access.

This intercooler performs well, no heatsoak dyno days (actually saw a 7" vrsf heatsoak on the Nizpro dyno day). Easiest to fit and highly recommended. Yes, its a little bit more expensive than VRSF but its a lot easier to fit so you'll spend a lot less on labour.

Heres a list of intercoolers I have fitted to various cars:

Wagner EVO 1 performance - Dead easy, easy removal for servicing (radiator drain requires intercooler removal for access).

ATM/Helix - Bolts on with no radiator support cutting, silicone couplers (clamps need to be cutoff, radiator fan removed). Great quality core
VRSF 5" stepped - same as above, core isn't as good as the some of the other brands
VRSF 7" - Same as 5" + bumper removal, a lot of cutting to the radiator support, not as much frontal area as it is not stepped
ER - Bolts in with a small lip of the radiator support cut, silicone couplers (decent ones). Polished, so all the couplers slip on pretty easy. Great quality product.
Wagner EVO 2 competition (fitted 1M) - Silicone couplers, small amount of cutting to rubber air deflector. I made custom brackets to sit the intercooler further back. Otherwise it would have required a ton of cutting of the radiator support to fit, similar to VRSF7" with bumper removal etc. Quality product but a massive pain to fit
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Last edited by vtl; 09-22-2016 at 08:56 AM..
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      09-19-2016, 09:06 PM   #41
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Good to see you have a build thread now Vince!

That M3 tiller came up very nice, I hate when they stitching becomes all murky and the wheel is all glossy and greasy...

I wipe mine with a wet rag once every time I wash the car and after 4 years its still in great shape. I have heard of guys using lux soap flakes and warm water with good results to clean leather also.
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      10-11-2016, 08:22 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
M3 Front sway bar

I was afraid the front end would feel too stiff compared to the rear and did feel a little bit of it when I first put it on. I have gotten used to it but still feel a stiffer rear bar would benefit and even things out a bit. Stock bar is 12mm, the 22.5mm M3 rear bar seems like overkill, I may try an E93 15mm rear bar instead. I feel the twichiness of the 1M may be due to the fact it is using the 22.5mm rear bar which might be a bit too stiff.
Hey mate, was reading up on this and checked realoem.com for part numbers for the E93 rear sway bar. But on there it suggests the E93 M3 rear bar is actually 23.6mm?

E93 rear sway bar

E92 rear sway bar

It also suggests that the 135i stock rear ARB is 12mm (as you said) but the E87 stock bar is 13mm?

But it does list both of them on each "Found on following vehicles" list so might have to get under the car and have a look what is on mine...
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Last edited by walkie86; 10-11-2016 at 10:10 PM..
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      10-11-2016, 08:59 PM   #43
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I was talking about e93 msport bar out of a non-M 3 series convertible. 23.6mm E93 m3 rear sway would be way too stiff imo

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=33_1280

Last edited by vtl; 10-11-2016 at 10:26 PM..
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      10-11-2016, 10:05 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
I was talking about e93 msport bar out of a non-M 3 series convertible. 23.6mm E93 m3 rear sway would be way too stiff imo
I agree it would be too stiff. Thanks for the clarification

Part number for 15mm rear ARB : 33556764427
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