Some ideas for rotors/control arms/coilovers

[CSN327]

Hi folks,

After another round of diagnosis, the mechanic told me that the bushings for the thrust arm are out, the front rotors are due for replacement, and the front dampers are different.

I'm not planning for heavy modding to my 135i, but rather "upgrade on what's broken", so I only plan on replacing the front rotors (maybe pads), but not really working on the caliper. What is a good combo for some "better than original" but not overwhelmingly expensive?

And the second step of work would be replacing the front control arms altogether with some M3 control arms. Is TRW the OEM product for M3s, or there are other better options for the money?

As for the dampers, I did some searches and found Bilstein B14s kit looked like something good for the money ($800). Is there any better kit with that amount of money? Thanks!

[dtla1]

Zimmerman or Centric, I forget which ones, are pretty popular OE equivalent rotors. If you're just daily driving or casual fun drives, anything OE similar is fine. Pads, same, stoptech, coolcarbon, etc are popular, I'm currently using EBC Redstuff.

TRW is OEM for M3, they come with the ///M logo just ground off. These should be perfect as replacement/upgrade. A little bit longer than stock gives you more camber but also pushes the wheel out further which can cause issues if you're looking to push the limits of what wheel/tire combo you can fit for maximum width/clearance for track use, but otherwise they are perfect.

Bilstein stuff is great, I did the B12 kit when I originally started modding my car. Ended up being quite harsh though. Looking back and reading the recommendations and reviews of others, seems like the Konis really might be the way to go. Good upgrade, nice dampening characteristics which will be compliant, but can also be adjusted for more stiffness if needed.

[tracer bullet]

For the rotors I'd question why they are due? Thickness, condition, guesstimate based on miles? How thick is the material left on the pads?

You might be getting good advice but just be sure the work is needed and if you should do the pads at the same time.

[CSN327]

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

For the rotors I'd question why they are due? Thickness, condition, guesstimate based on miles? How thick is the material left on the pads?

You might be getting good advice but just be sure the work is needed and if you should do the pads at the same time.

Both the PPI shop and my local shop recommended replacing front rotors. There are noticeable vibrations on braking from ~40mph. The front pads had ~7mm left. The most worrying issue is that it may veer to the left when the car is about to stop in front of the light on some occasions when the road is rough, though the local shop said that the bad bushings and excessive tire load force may also contribute to this.

[tracer bullet]

Originally Posted by CSN327

Both the PPI shop and my local shop recommended replacing front rotors. There are noticeable vibrations on braking from ~40mph. The front pads had ~7mm left. The most worrying issue is that it may veer to the left when the car is about to stop in front of the light on some occasions when the road is rough, though the local shop said that the bad bushings and excessive tire load force may also contribute to this.

7mm is about half or more, not bad. How many miles? Just wondering if they are the original pads or rotors.

Read about brake pad bedding-in procedures. There's a chance you have unevenly deposited brake material on the rotors, can happen for a variety of reasons. This will often cure the issue (I just did it myself actually on a rental car in Colorado, the rotors were glazed probably from people having the brakes on the whole way down some mountains, a number of hard high speed stops practically got rid of it and it was BAD when I picked the car up).

Definitely do the arms and any bushings that are loose. Maybe do them first, and save the brakes for later. And try the bedding-on thing just to be sure.

[CSN327]

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

How many miles?

75k for a 2011 135.

I think I can feel some kind of uneven surface on the front, compared to the rear rotors. Will google bedding in the brakes, thanks!

[CSN327]

Originally Posted by dtla1

] A little bit longer than stock gives you more camber but also pushes the wheel out further which can cause issues if you're looking to push the limits of what wheel/tire combo you can fit for maximum width/clearance for track use, but otherwise they are perfect.

I'm interested in getting in something similar to the E60 M5 wheels, but 19 inch seems to be a little bit of stretch for e82 and might be too rough for daily use..

Also I wonder if the fcpeuro's control arm installation kit is a must? "Reason is the bolts have a coating that prevents corrosion of the bolt." doesn't sound too convincing?

[///Makis]

Originally Posted by CSN327

I'm interested in getting in something similar to the E60 M5 wheels, but 19 inch seems to be a little bit of stretch for e82 and might be too rough for daily use..

Also I wonder if the fcpeuro's control arm installation kit is a must? "Reason is the bolts have a coating that prevents corrosion of the bolt." doesn't sound too convincing?

If you live in an area that gets snow or excessive rain, it's worth considering. If you check under your car do you see any rust on anything?

Also as I'm sure you know fcp euro has a lifetime warranty on pretty much everything. So it's usually worth it.

Definitely try bedding the brakes before you change rotors. I'd suggest doing it late at night when there are fewer cars on the road, or if you know of a long road where you can get up to speed and brake aggressively enough with no one behind you.

[CSN327]

Originally Posted by ///Makis

If you live in an area that gets snow or excessive rain, it's worth considering. If you check under your car do you see any rust on anything?

Also as I'm sure you know fcp euro has a lifetime warranty on pretty much everything. So it's usually worth it.

Definitely try bedding the brakes before you change rotors. I'd suggest doing it late at night when there are fewer cars on the road, or if you know of a long road where you can get up to speed and brake aggressively enough with no one behind you.

There isn't snow or a lot of rain in SF bay, nor do I found any rust when it was on the lift. I've just ordered the kit anyway.

[asbrr]

I would just warn that the M3 arms do add some NVH and impact harshness, I heard the it's specifically the tension arms. If you're not tracking the car / don't need the extra camber, stick with stock arms - FCP euro has a well priced kit if your existing ones are worn.

I wish I had stuck with standard arms when my factory ones wore out, the M3 arms do add camber and some nice feel, but I really don't like the impact harshness in combination with my B12 kit.