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      07-27-2017, 05:37 PM   #1
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Time to do brakes. Pads & Rotors.

OK, so I'm putting together a shopping list to do my brakes. I'm going to keep my stock calipers. Going with a straight street setup as I haven't been to the track in a year. Breaks my heart but can't seem to commit to the 2+ hour drive each way these days.

Anyway. Planning on using OE BMW brake fluid. Works fine for me. Looking at possibly Stoptech Street Performance pads with their Slotted/Drilled whatever rotors front and rear.

Also saw the ECS 2 piece rotors for the front. Considering those as a little weight loss, especially unsprung, up front wouldn't go remiss with that huge fucking CX Racing FMIC up there. But at $500 for just front rotors, I dunno.

Looking for feedback and suggestions. Fire away folks. Thanks in advance.
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      07-27-2017, 09:40 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
OK, so I'm putting together a shopping list to do my brakes. I'm going to keep my stock calipers. Going with a straight street setup as I haven't been to the track in a year. Breaks my heart but can't seem to commit to the 2+ hour drive each way these days.

Anyway. Planning on using OE BMW brake fluid. Works fine for me. Looking at possibly Stoptech Street Performance pads with their Slotted/Drilled whatever rotors front and rear.

Also saw the ECS 2 piece rotors for the front. Considering those as a little weight loss, especially unsprung, up front wouldn't go remiss with that huge fucking CX Racing FMIC up there. But at $500 for just front rotors, I dunno.

Looking for feedback and suggestions. Fire away folks. Thanks in advance.
Durago rotors... they are two piece BMW performance rotors. They aren't as light as the ecs rotors but at $80 per rotor they beat stoptech in price and they weigh 1-2lbs less per rotor.

I felt like stoptech sport pads were a downgrade for street driving and were only a marginal bit more fade resistant on track. I'd try ebc red/yellow for the same price. If you don't do any hpde then there is no need to use anything other than stock pads. Stock pads have phenomenal bite.

BMW brake fluid is also pretty good fluid. It has a higher wet and dry boiling point than most stuff on the shelf. Moving to a better fluid like rbf600 won't hurt anything though so long as you change it at least 1x per year.
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      07-28-2017, 08:53 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bNks334 View Post
Durago rotors... they are two piece BMW performance rotors. They aren't as light as the ecs rotors but at $80 per rotor they beat stoptech in price and they weigh 1-2lbs less per rotor.

I felt like stoptech sport pads were a downgrade for street driving and were only a marginal bit more fade resistant on track. I'd try ebc red/yellow for the same price. If you don't do any hpde then there is no need to use anything other than stock pads. Stock pads have phenomenal bite.

BMW brake fluid is also pretty good fluid. It has a higher wet and dry boiling point than most stuff on the shelf. Moving to a better fluid like rbf600 won't hurt anything though so long as you change it at least 1x per year.
Thanks for the input. Will look into the durago rotors. Sound like exactly what I'm looking for. Durago rotors are 2lbs lighter than which rotors exactly?

As for pads, EBC Red may be a good option and already on my short list. My wife hates the big initial bite of the OE BMW pads, so sacrificing a little top bite in exchange for less dust on the street will be fine. Not going to put RBF in there. I'm not interested in doing brake fluid changes unless I'm going to go have fun. No damn carrot and all stick.

Hoping to visit the track for a HPDE or two next spring, so ill worry about track pads then.

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      07-28-2017, 09:07 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bNks334 View Post
Durago rotors... they are two piece BMW performance rotors. They aren't as light as the ecs rotors but at $80 per rotor they beat stoptech in price and they weigh 1-2lbs less per rotor.

I felt like stoptech sport pads were a downgrade for street driving and were only a marginal bit more fade resistant on track. I'd try ebc red/yellow for the same price. If you don't do any hpde then there is no need to use anything other than stock pads. Stock pads have phenomenal bite.

BMW brake fluid is also pretty good fluid. It has a higher wet and dry boiling point than most stuff on the shelf. Moving to a better fluid like rbf600 won't hurt anything though so long as you change it at least 1x per year.
Do you have the Durago rotors on your car? If so how long have you had them? Trying to get a sense of durability vs OE on these, and to see if there is inferior metals at play (meaning more rust, faster wear etc). They are absolutely a steal, but I question how they got the price so low
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      07-28-2017, 09:35 AM   #5
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After looking for information on the Durago rotors, I think I'm going to pass. They only seem to be available on amazon and absolutely no metallurgy information or weight details seem to be listed. That coupled with the price makes me want to slam and sprint.
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      07-28-2017, 01:10 PM   #6
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Yeah, my Amazon search for the DuraGo rotors only turned up one review that said they were severely warped within a couple months
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      07-28-2017, 01:34 PM   #7
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Yeah, my Amazon search for the DuraGo rotors only turned up one review that said they were severely warped within a couple months
Bingo.
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      07-28-2017, 02:00 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
Also saw the ECS 2 piece rotors for the front. Considering those as a little weight loss, especially unsprung, up front wouldn't go remiss with that huge fucking CX Racing FMIC up there. But at $500 for just front rotors, I dunno.

Looking for feedback and suggestions. Fire away folks. Thanks in advance.
If you're planning on tracking the car, I haven't heard great things about those ECS 2-piece rotors. Cross-drilled rotors are more susceptible to cracking with the heat cycles and abuse they get at the track, moreso with aftermarket.
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      07-28-2017, 02:07 PM   #9
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i have had the durago/pronto rotors on my car for 3 years and 30k miles with stoptech pads and motul 600 and have done 15-20 track days, some including 140+mph nascar oval sections of track and have had no problem with warping. some 45 minute sessions.
about to replace with the same rotors and ebc yellows. cooling is key, sometimes have to slow up for a lap but hey im not a racer, just having fun in a safe controlled environment.
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      07-28-2017, 02:13 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asbrr View Post
Do you have the Durago rotors on your car? If so how long have you had them? Trying to get a sense of durability vs OE on these, and to see if there is inferior metals at play (meaning more rust, faster wear etc). They are absolutely a steal, but I question how they got the price so low
I have them front and rear. I don't know how I'd measure wear lol... they've been on the car ~20k miles and ~10 HPDE events if that helps and they have been fine with track oriented pads (pfc-08) the last few sessions and stoptech sport pads.

Everything I have seen indicates these rotors are the exact same thing as BMW performance rotors. They are NOT coated at the hub, meaning the hub WILL get ugly and rusty (who cares?). This was the same issue BMW performance rotors would have until BMW started coating them (probably why the original manufacturer now sells these old batches cheap??).You can always put some clear coating over the rotor hub face before installed if you really care about the look of rust...

Whatever you decide, that's my input. Stoptech rotors for $120 a piece are a heavier single piece design and are no better quality. They are a "budget" rotor (although they do carry a well known name brand). I had slotted stop-techs prior to the DuraGo and the only benefit was that the hat was painted black to avoid the rust look.

DuraGo/BMWP rotors are 1-2lbs lighter than single piece rotors due to the aluminum top hat and cross drilling.

$160 shipped for 2:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/pro...986,rotor,1896

Last edited by bNks334; 07-28-2017 at 02:36 PM..
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      07-28-2017, 04:16 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crowtrobot View Post
If you're planning on tracking the car, I haven't heard great things about those ECS 2-piece rotors. Cross-drilled rotors are more susceptible to cracking with the heat cycles and abuse they get at the track, moreso with aftermarket.
What have you heard specifically? Just issues with cracking at drill points? If so that's good to know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mike082802 View Post
i have had the durago/pronto rotors on my car for 3 years and 30k miles with stoptech pads and motul 600 and have done 15-20 track days, some including 140+mph nascar oval sections of track and have had no problem with warping. some 45 minute sessions.
about to replace with the same rotors and ebc yellows. cooling is key, sometimes have to slow up for a lap but hey im not a racer, just having fun in a safe controlled environment.
Where do you buy your rotors from. What specific part number are you using?

Quote:
Originally Posted by bNks334 View Post
I have them front and rear. I don't know how I'd measure wear lol... they've been on the car ~20k miles and ~10 HPDE events if that helps and they have been fine with track oriented pads (pfc-08) the last few sessions and stoptech sport pads.

Everything I have seen indicates these rotors are the exact same thing as BMW performance rotors. They are NOT coated at the hub, meaning the hub WILL get ugly and rusty (who cares?). This was the same issue BMW performance rotors would have until BMW started coating them (probably why the original manufacturer now sells these old batches cheap??).You can always put some clear coating over the rotor hub face before installed if you really care about the look of rust...

Whatever you decide, that's my input. Stoptech rotors for $120 a piece are a heavier single piece design and are no better quality. They are a "budget" rotor (although they do carry a well known name brand). I had slotted stop-techs prior to the DuraGo and the only benefit was that the hat was painted black to avoid the rust look.

DuraGo/BMWP rotors are 1-2lbs lighter than single piece rotors due to the aluminum top hat and cross drilling.

$160 shipped for 2:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/pro...986,rotor,1896
What are you seeing that indicates these are the same as the BMW Performance rotors? I can't find anything.
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      07-28-2017, 04:42 PM   #12
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rock auto. i even think the durago and pronto part number are the same. same as bNks334.
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      07-28-2017, 04:59 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike082802 View Post
rock auto. i even think the durago and pronto part number are the same. same as bNks334.
Durago and pronto are the same product.
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      07-28-2017, 05:05 PM   #14
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What are you seeing that indicates these are the same as the BMW Performance rotors? I can't find anything.
They are exact the same down to every detail.

Rocketauto and every other dealer of pronto/Durgo offers a 1 year warranty. Worth the risk and I can tell you first hand they are fine. Your choice though.
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      07-28-2017, 06:15 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by bNks334 View Post
They are exact the same down to every detail.

Rocketauto and every other dealer of pronto/Durgo offers a 1 year warranty. Worth the risk and I can tell you first hand they are fine. Your choice though.
How much do they weigh? And what are you using on the rear hub.

Thought I had remembered these from another thread years ago, found it: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=643314

Perhaps they are the 1st gen recipe of the BMWP rotors.
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      07-31-2017, 07:04 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
How much do they weigh? And what are you using on the rear hub.

Thought I had remembered these from another thread years ago, found it: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=643314

Perhaps they are the 1st gen recipe of the BMWP rotors.
That's what they appear to be. I am using the dimpled Durago Rears.

I didn't weigh the rotors before I put them in, unfortunately. Definitely about a 1lb rotational weight savings though which is better than nothing.
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      07-31-2017, 12:55 PM   #17
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The pronto rotors seem like a great option. I will probably get them when the time comes to replace my rotors.

However, if you are thinking about spending the money on the ECS rotors, I would consider the RB lightweight rotors as well. 5lbs lighter than stock. I believe you have to purchase the pads from them as well though as the do a minor modification to them.

My friend is running their lightweight front and rear rotors. They are very high quality. We have literally beat the crap out of them through local canyon roads and they didn't miss a beat while with stock rotors/pads he was getting brake fade. I forgot what pads he got but if you decide to considering them as an option let me know and I will find out/get you more feedback.

Front: http://www.racingbrake.com/135i-E82-...-11-p/2166.htm

Rear: http://www.racingbrake.com/Two-piece...008-p/2167.htm
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      07-31-2017, 05:30 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houtan View Post
The pronto rotors seem like a great option. I will probably get them when the time comes to replace my rotors.

However, if you are thinking about spending the money on the ECS rotors, I would consider the RB lightweight rotors as well. 5lbs lighter than stock. I believe you have to purchase the pads from them as well though as the do a minor modification to them.

My friend is running their lightweight front and rear rotors. They are very high quality. We have literally beat the crap out of them through local canyon roads and they didn't miss a beat while with stock rotors/pads he was getting brake fade. I forgot what pads he got but if you decide to considering them as an option let me know and I will find out/get you more feedback.

Front: http://www.racingbrake.com/135i-E82-...-11-p/2166.htm

Rear: http://www.racingbrake.com/Two-piece...008-p/2167.htm
A little more than I was intending to spend, but as an intermediate upgrade it sounds decent. I'd definitely like more info! Specifically with the rear 2 piece, as I thought we couldn't do a 2 piece on the rear due to the parking brake drum and shoes.
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      07-31-2017, 06:26 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
A little more than I was intending to spend, but as an intermediate upgrade it sounds decent. I'd definitely like more info! Specifically with the rear 2 piece, as I thought we couldn't do a 2 piece on the rear due to the parking brake drum and shoes.
Their rear two piece lightweight rotor works with the factory e-brake. The pads they use are either modified factory pad or pads from the EVO10 fit directly. The downside to using the EVO pads is you cannot use the brake pad sensor.

His feedback is the best part about the rotors is the weight savings and they are rebuildable. He is using their high temp street pad called the xt910. No fade on very aggressive canyon driving, but the initial bite is not as good as stock, and you really have to press on the brake pedal to get the brakes to grab. Initial thoughts on the loss of initial bite and extra effort to brake harder is a downside. Might change with time as he gets use to them. Will take the trade off for the weight savings.

He had issues melting the stock pads and grooving the factory rotors due to brake boosting and stops from high speed (150+mph). So far the RB HW has held up great. The true test will be at the next half mile event in October.

Last edited by houtan; 07-31-2017 at 09:00 PM..
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      08-01-2017, 09:30 AM   #20
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Quote:
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Their rear two piece lightweight rotor works with the factory e-brake. The pads they use are either modified factory pad or pads from the EVO10 fit directly. The downside to using the EVO pads is you cannot use the brake pad sensor.

His feedback is the best part about the rotors is the weight savings and they are rebuildable. He is using their high temp street pad called the xt910. No fade on very aggressive canyon driving, but the initial bite is not as good as stock, and you really have to press on the brake pedal to get the brakes to grab. Initial thoughts on the loss of initial bite and extra effort to brake harder is a downside. Might change with time as he gets use to them. Will take the trade off for the weight savings.

He had issues melting the stock pads and grooving the factory rotors due to brake boosting and stops from high speed (150+mph). So far the RB HW has held up great. The true test will be at the next half mile event in October.
Any issues with the rear brake pad sensor delete?
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      08-01-2017, 01:04 PM   #21
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Any issues with the rear brake pad sensor delete?
The DSC module actually has a function that increases brake pressure over time based on the estimated brake pad life (drukmodel_ha or something like that). By removing the sensor you can assume this function no longer works and you may experience a bit more pedal travel than "normal" when the pads start to wear down (which is normal lol).

I have both my sensors cut off and the wires tied together so I can permanently delete the annoying service notifications (car permanently thinks the pads are new).
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      08-01-2017, 05:36 PM   #22
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The DSC module actually has a function that increases brake pressure over time based on the estimated brake pad life (drukmodel_ha or something like that). By removing the sensor you can assume this function no longer works and you may experience a bit more pedal travel than "normal" when the pads start to wear down (which is normal lol).

I have both my sensors cut off and the wires tied together so I can permanently delete the annoying service notifications (car permanently thinks the pads are new).
Hm. Not a bad idea.
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