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11-27-2017, 09:14 PM | #1 |
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Suspension not feeling right after upgrade
So the short version is since upgrading suspension, I haven't been 100% happy since there are some things that I can't quite get the neutral feel that I was expecting from the upgrade.
Details: Ohlins R&T with Swift Springs upfront (forgot spring rate) M3 front control arms Dinan Plates H&R fsb AKG adj endlinks Stock height basically with some neg camber upfront (about 1.4X degrees for fronts for tire life) and currently on 17in snow tires (205/225) So basically my prob now is that there's a part that keeps on loosening up after driving through bumpy roads where I frequent. I suspect the endlinks or something to do w the FSB coz I only hear and feel the clunks on bumpy roads. I think it's either the AKGs or the FSB isn't installed right. I remember my mechanic telling me that he had to modify the AKGs, just haven't had confirmation of this visually (if it's long and he had to cut it or if it's too short). Took it to turner and they said that the AKG's bushings are "open" and that the install was not done correctly causing them to be worn out prematurely. The next thing is that the FSB does not feel up to par to my tastes, it does not make me feel that the car is flat when I need it to. Sometimes I feel like just going back to stock MSport sways for now and see if the clunks disappear and the "neutral" feel gets better. I just feel like w what I have now, the MSport seems to have been better or that my setup now just isn't dialed in. Had Turner align it recently which corrected the alignment issues from the suspension install (story for another day) but I guess I just want it to feel more connected (maybe a bit firmer would be nice which I know I can adjust). Questions: 1. Will Stock Lemforder endlinks work w this setup since I don't plan on getting it any lower than MSport height or should I get new sealed endlinks (Turner has them but how hard is it to determine which length I should get?) 2. Anyone here have any experience w the H&R FSB? I just can't quite get it dialed w this bar. Am I missing something? Should I switch to another type or the M3 bar maybe? From what I experienced back in my Honda days, having that FSB upgrade really livens up the front, not so much w this one though. 3. Are Ohlins rear springs notoriously soft? i just feel like these ones i have (road and track rear springs) are much softer than the MSport ones. Maybe it's just me being picky. Long winded, my apologies. But I always figured this forum has so much info for novice-wrenches like me and have def learned a lot over the years since joining, that I would go here first before spending any money on any car-related items/services. Thanks! |
11-27-2017, 10:18 PM | #3 |
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11-28-2017, 05:35 AM | #4 |
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If the car is at stock ride height, why did you opt for adjustable endlinks? I've heard of the adjustable mechanisms loosening but usually after a while.
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11-28-2017, 06:36 AM | #5 |
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If you're dealing with Turner's shop, why not talk to them about how to get the suspension where you want it?
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11-28-2017, 04:46 PM | #6 | |
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The spring rates for Ohlin R&T used to be 342lb (60N/mm) front, and 400lb (70N/mm) rear. If that is what you have got, it is actually softer than stock M-sport springs on the rear. IMO, its very strange engineering for this package from Ohlins. I didn't read where you wrote about changing the rear subframe bushings (RSFB). If you are going to change rear springs, I strongly recommend to change the rear subframe bushings at the same time. After you change the rear springs and RSFB you may find the handling becomes more balanced and feels more stable. Then you can decide if you still want to change the H&R front sway bar. |
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11-28-2017, 07:25 PM | #7 | |
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I will check the FSB links to see if it's something that oem fixed length will fix. Turner is about an hour drive from me so it's quite a hassle to go there everytime. It's worth the trip though. |
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11-28-2017, 09:34 PM | #8 | |
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11-30-2017, 09:16 AM | #9 |
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You didnt mention how many miles you have. After close to 160,000 miles on the e90/82 frame I've come across the clunk more then once. A lot of times upgrades in one area will reveal issues in other areas. Not everything is related to the new parts
Best bet - The dinan plates use the stock strut mount. Did you change these also? These need to be replaced every 50K. Worn strut mounts are the major source of clunks Next - FSB end links not adjusted properly/evenly so not riding in neutral position |
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11-30-2017, 10:21 AM | #10 | |
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