UUC DSSR for the 1er

[Justin(OKC)]

With my big suspension project this weekend I decided I would take a look at installing the DSSR. There is no way this thing will fit. I may have bought my last thing from UUC. At least their clutch stops for the E36 are good.

[akak1997]

I took the car to Evolution Raceworks and have Fred help me install the shims for the SSK and fix the DSSR.
Basically he took out the carrier and sanded that thing down with a belt sander where it was rubbing.
The shim didn't remove the play, but at least the shifter is not sliding on the pin by much. I still get quite a bit of play, but it is at where the "cup" and the ball of the shifter.

I cannot recommend UUC SSK anymore... they probably have NO QC whatsoever or just 1/2 ass R&D. This DSSR thing happens to those M3 guys as well.. I think this company is on its way out...

[nordique14]

Surprising they have gone downhill. I had a few things from them (including a DSSR) on my E36 and they all fit fine and worked correctly.

[Justin(OKC)]

I am actually contemplating removing their SSK from my car.....not happy at all

[FazerBoy]

Originally Posted by Justin(OKC)

I am actually contemplating removing their SSK from my car.....not happy at all

Justin,

Are you actually unhappy with the operation of the SSK itself?

Jack

[Justin(OKC)]

Originally Posted by FazerBoy

Justin,

Are you actually unhappy with the operation of the SSK itself?

Jack

It rotates a few degrees. For a part this expensive, it is unacceptable. I've made repeated attempts to allow them to fix the problem. The lack of returned phone calls and lack of email support is the straw that broke this camel's back.

[FazerBoy]

Has anybody else tried to fit the DSSR, or have we all decided it's a waste of money ?

I'd like to hear from anybody else who might have successfully fitted the DSSR to a 135i.

Jack

[Justin(OKC)]

Originally Posted by FazerBoy

Has anybody else tried to fit the DSSR, or have we all decided it's a waste of money ?

I'd like to hear from anybody else who might have successfully fitted the DSSR to a 135i.

Jack

I would like to hear if anyone has been able to make it work.

[theanhdy]

Thank god I did a search on SSK and found this thread. Is B&M SSK any good?

[FazerBoy]

DO NOT BUY THE UUC DSSR!!!

It does not fit and despite various e-mails to UUC they do not accept that it does not fit and seem unwilling to help. My tuning shop has got it to fit by machining both the DSSR and the shifter carrier but this is not something an owner should have to do. In any event, even when fitted it makes virtually no difference.

Jack

[Justin(OKC)]

I have since boycotted UUC because of this purchase and the support they have given me on my SSK.

[Smallbodybimmer]

WOW.

I wish I saw this thread earlier.... OK. I have had the EVO3 for maybe a year now and just installed the DSSR and RK6A-L last weekend. In defense of UUC I have to say it all feels great working together so far, Like I said I just put in the DSSR and knob. I do recognize the deficiencies you guys have mentioned, and luckily I found some work arounds on the fly that seem to be working out pretty good.

SSK

The SSK is a bitch to install because its far under the car and the damn tiny socket head cap screws (SHCS) to mount the cup to the carrier. Its tough but do-able. Best with a lift, or jack at all four corners. I used ramps which is the worst because as you slide back in towards the middle of the car you have less an less space. By the time I got to where I was able to work, it felt like the car was sitting right on my chest, lol. Ok, if you can get past the claustraphobia, Removing the heat shield isnt bad cause you dont need to take back much just a corner really and then the linkage joint (selector rod to shifter) is right in front of you.

As far as the miniature screws to bolt in the cup, they recommend removing the carrier to do this but this requires more extensive work and there is no need. You need to cut the short end of the allen wrench supplied in the kit as it is almost impossible to use as is, in order to install the screws. I used a dremel cut-off wheel. Cut it close to the bend but not too close or it will start to distort the hex cross-section of the tool. This made putting in the six SHCS a cinche really. Once you get it all put together up top, go back underneath and pin the shifter to the selector rod. The circlips can be a bitch to get on and off, just need some finger muscle and perserverence.

Other than that just pretty much follow the instructions given with the kit, and also downloadable in pdf from their website. Took me a long time to install because I had to figure all this out but really should only be like a 2-3 hour job.

As far as the shifter rotating, I didnt realize this until just recently. I kept the stock height and never messed with it for a year, so it did not budge. I went to adjust the height and I see they have some sort of long screw going completly through the shifter. I pulled this out, adjusted the height and tried to put it back but there is some rubbery thing inside and I could not realign the screw to go through both holes! And, I could not see how this was supposed to keep the shifter at it's new height and from rotating?!

I found a solution but there is a downside. So I figured out that the screw is either a M4 x .7 (metric) thread or #8-36. The metric seems the closest. So I got an M4 x .7 with 5/16 length screw from the hardware store (cost 0.30 cents). Now you cant put it back in the same spot as there is an open space there and just the rubbery stuff. You need to rotate the outer shaft about 45deg or so and insert the screw into the threaded hole side and now the screw can bite into the metal inner shaft, locking the outer shaft in place. Now you have a solidly mounted shifter at whatever height you perfer!!

But the downside is the the stock knob uses the notch at the top of the shifter to seat itself i believe, and if you rotate the outer shaft of the shifter, you rotate that notch and the knob. I installed a ball shaped knob, the RK6A-L and it doesnt use the notch at all, so it can be rotated however i need and locked with it's included set screw. The RK6a-L is worth it because it looks great IMHO, is a heavy knob, and helps you blow right on past that 1-2 gear notchiness.


DSSR

Now if you thought the EVO3 was a test in perserverence to install, wait till you try the DSSR! Now you need to be in the same position underneath the car as you were for installing the SSK so it makes sense to do it all at once, if you have the patience, freedom to cuss openly and beer to drink. The DSSR is hard because you are basically installing the joint at the tranny blind because the the driveshaft bolted to the tranny is directly in the way. This also makes the space in which you have to work pretty tight! You need to get real comfortable with the feel of the linkage and you will from my experience because you will be under for some time. But who doesnt love a challenge!

Now on the tranny side, they say use two of the plastic yellow washers on the outside of either side of the DSSR clevis. I tried and could not for the life of me get the circlip back on. So I ended up using one washer on the tranny end. There just wasnt enough length on the pin to get the circlip onto the groove at the end of the pin with two washers.

Now on the shifter end it is easier because you can at least see it. They recommend two washers on the outside of the clevis, just like on the tranny end. I put it all together and there is a bunch of play between the bearing at the bottom of the shifter and the clevis of the selector. I knew it would still be sloppy so a put two extra yellow washers inside the clevis to take out some of the slope between the shifter bearing and the clevis. So you actually need 4 washers at the shifter end of the DSSR. If it is now too tight like mine was, I had to wittle down one of the inner washers on sandpaper or something, (I used a file cause it was all I had). I also enlarged the hole of the washer a bit to make it easier to line up to get the pin through.

Now depending on your luck (and dexterity) this can be a 1-2 hr job, or better part of a day like me, (while it is cold and there is NFL playoffs on I might add!!)

After all that it feels awesome Only been driving it all put together for about a week but the shifts are crisp and short, and fast. Almost no play in gear, rock solid! Id say about 1-2 mm if that! Very nice The only thing I have left to do now is exchange out whatever fluid is in the tranny stock for some Royal Purple Synchromax! I've heard very good things about this stuff and want to try it out. I have 2 qts in the garage now, just need to find the time to put it in.

Now I havent had any rubbing of the DSSR on mine as of yet, but I will be sure to let you know if I do.

One other note, after a year, the six SHCS used to bolt down the cup to the carrier backed out a little causing some shifter slop. while doing the DSSR and knob install, I went ahead and tightend them back up. Be sure to use that locktight when you install those. I think most of it was on my fingers in the initial install a year ago trying to get it in place, before i figured out the trick with the allen wrench.


Good Luck

[FazerBoy]

I don't think the height is supposed to be adjusted using that screw that goes right through the shifter.

I think you're supposed to loosen the large (23mm) bolt at the base of the shifter and then the shifter will slide up or down and then you tighten this bolt again.

Jack

[6MT_Addict]

Reviving this... was doing some work and checked my DSSR, found shavings and the rubbing issue described here. Has anyone found a fix for this?

I'm debating pulling mine (such a PIA to install) and grinding down the corner so it no longer rubs...

See the attached pic.