135i Build - track toy with a license plate

[blossom]

Nice "1" Alex! She's looking really good now! You've just about done everything and some things twice. Pretty soon it will just be maintain and enjoy driving(yeah right!).

I recently picked up a 135i of my own and will be getting into a few mods soon. Your thread is basically a 1 stop mod guide to these cars, great stuff and thanks for all the time and effort you spend to share all this with us.

[berns]

Originally Posted by blossom

Nice "1" Alex! She's looking really good now! You've just about done everything and some things twice. Pretty soon it will just be maintain and enjoy driving(yeah right!).

I recently picked up a 135i of my own and will be getting into a few mods soon. Your thread is basically a 1 stop mod guide to these cars, great stuff and thanks for all the time and effort you spend to share all this with us.

Thanks dude! Happy to help keep pushing this platform. At times I'd like to throw in the towel, or an LS... but it's been fun!

[berns]

With the constant beating I subject my N54 to, I was having some PCV issues and was tired of filthy valves and warping stock plastic valve covers. We all know the N54 runs hot, but for anyone that does road racing / time attack, you know it is a f%^*ing oven under the hood. I suspect the heat and abuse only accelerates the wear of the OEM valve cover.

I was intrigued with the VTT kit and while this setup isn't cheap, you really have to consider the cost of parts and labor on stock valve covers over the life of your car, plus walnut blasting! So, I'm glad I no longer have to worry about this part of the motor.

https://vargasturbo.com/product/vtt-...c-valve-cover/

The VTT Valve Cover fits perfectly. Not a single issue. It is a seriously beautiful piece. I went with the Billet version over the cast one for weight savings, as this is a time attack car and every pound counts!

Both Tony & Chris were awesome to deal with. They provided instructions on routing the lines and valves, and everything came ready to install. Tapping and plugging the head ports was a bit nerve racking, but it's really not a big deal once you get going. Just take your time and be gentle!

Each catch can has a window to check consumption, and they both have easy to access drains on the bottom. I know VTT sells a small petcock valve that you can fit to the bottom of the cans and that'd make emptying them way easier. Definitely going to order some!

After 6+ track days, I've had zero issues, and I don't expect any will turn up. Can't recommend this piece enough! Sorry for the not-so-pretty engine bay, it's a track car after all.























Bonus shot of the valve cover in action at Chuckwalla!

[austinaslink]

As always, fantastic write up! You truly have a knack for story telling! lol

The turbo kit and valve cover look fantastic. Love the custom turbo work to fix the coupler melting problem. I like the idea of removing any potential points of failure. Good call!

I've always wondered, what is that bung looking piece on the front of the VTT cover? Dipstick? (One can dream. lol)

Looking forward to an update on your 2/9 event.

[Skotcoop]

Man I love this! This is all the exact stuff I want to do to my car and how I want to drive it. But I don't know where to start. I just picked up my 2010 in December and have done a few simple bolt ons along with jb4, MHD, and Xhp tunes. If we could chat more it would be great.

[mKilgore]

berns Did you switch from the Volk to Titan-7 rims?

[berns]

Originally Posted by austinaslink

As always, fantastic write up! You truly have a knack for story telling! lol

The turbo kit and valve cover look fantastic. Love the custom turbo work to fix the coupler melting problem. I like the idea of removing any potential points of failure. Good call!

I've always wondered, what is that bung looking piece on the front of the VTT cover? Dipstick? (One can dream. lol)

Looking forward to an update on your 2/9 event.

Thanks dude. Love writing, did it for many years... I try to stop myself from writing too much here but always end up getting carried away.

The bung looking piece on the valve cover is a Vacuum Relief Valve.
https://vargasturbo.com/product/vtt-...-relief-valve/

Originally Posted by Skotcoop

Man I love this! This is all the exact stuff I want to do to my car and how I want to drive it. But I don't know where to start. I just picked up my 2010 in December and have done a few simple bolt ons along with jb4, MHD, and Xhp tunes. If we could chat more it would be great.

Glad you like it! I actually get A LOT of questions about setup on these cars, and I'm happy to give advice when needed, but really, read through this thread, think about what you'd like to do, how you'd like to use the car and how much money you're willing to spend, and build accordingly. From the sounds of it, you've started off with all the wrong pieces to turn the e82 into a good track car. Before you add power, you need: good pads, lines, fluid. lighter wheels, good tires, decent suspension, fresh bushings and seats that hold you in place.

N54/N55 is a tempting motor to just want to add power to but if you don't build up the cooling system, you should keep the tuning stock. It's a slippery slope. Good luck and enjoy the process.

Originally Posted by mKilgore

berns Did you switch from the Volk to Titan-7 rims?

Switch is a funny word here, but yes. I pancaked two of the Volks on the track and actually had them straightened and they balance out. But they're only 9.5" wide and I love Titan7. I'm friends with the guys that own the company and really want to support them. It helps that they make an incredible product that they stand behind, at a great price. So, I'll keep these wheels till I upgrade to their 18x10.5's.

[Skotcoop]

Originally Posted by berns

Glad you like it! I actually get A LOT of questions about setup on these cars, and I'm happy to give advice when needed, but really, read through this thread, think about what you'd like to do, how you'd like to use the car and how much money you're willing to spend, and build accordingly. From the sounds of it, you've started off with all the wrong pieces to turn the e82 into a good track car. Before you add power, you need: good pads, lines, fluid. lighter wheels, good tires, decent suspension, fresh bushings and seats that hold you in place.

N54/N55 is a tempting motor to just want to add power to but if you don't build up the cooling system, you should keep the tuning stock. It's a slippery slope. Good luck and enjoy the process.

Well, to be fair, I've only done the things that I already knew I wanted to do before I even bought the car. And that was a to get a bit more power to have fun. I feel like the car already drives amazing with stock suspension and its components but upgrading the rear end to LSD, bushings, arms, coilovers and brakes are my next plans. I don't plan on racing it any time soon so I'm not in a hurry. I thoroughly enjoy driving it whenever I can even though it isn't my daily. I am a little curious how much you spent on doing all your suspension/differential work and the 1M conversion. Even though that looked like a nightmare to do, it looks amazing.

[gmx]

Any more details on the splitter and how it attaches?
Available to buy from APR?

[berns]

Originally Posted by gmx

Any more details on the splitter and how it attaches?
Available to buy from APR?

It's a custom chassis mount that was built for me by a friend / fabricator out here. I know he'd prefer if I didn't just share pics of what he built, because then everyone would be making it. The splitter itself was custom from APR as well, but it's just a sheet of heavy carbon. They likely kept the specs for it, so if you email them and tell them that KC built the splitter for my car, they should be able to get your sorted.

Any race shop or good fabricator that deals with aero could help you with a chassis mount setup. mine is full quick release. Same for the bumper. Both come off with zero tools which is awesome.

[gmx]

Ty. Quick release is what I'm looking for. Something very easy and quick to switch for street duties.

[berns]

Track prep with the buds last night. Did a power steering flush, drained catch cans, quick nut and bolt check and we're ready for Buttonwillow on Sunday. Hopefully I can shave some more time off.

[blossom]

Hi Alex, I hope button worked out well! Maybe you even scored another PB!(they don't come easily though'-)

How are those power flex sub frame and diff bushs working out? Still solid/ not wearing/ still hard enough?

I need to do mine, right from the start and even the first test drive it was immediately obvious these were an issue and on top of that i fitted some new wheels with descent(ish) rubber a couple of days ago and the problem is even more accentuated now....hard braking at 200 over a minorish bump and the car jumps to one side by about a meter.. not too cool feeling!

You commented earlier in the thread about taking a solid bushed car home for the night and the NVH being an issue... Although Ive seen lots of people comment that solid bushs are not an issue and that its the diff bushs that will transmit noise.

Any thoughts to share?

[Mark Aubele]

Originally Posted by blossom

Hi Alex, I hope button worked out well! Maybe you even scored another PB!(they don't come easily though'-)

How are those power flex sub frame and diff bushs working out? Still solid/ not wearing/ still hard enough?

I need to do mine, right from the start and even the first test drive it was immediately obvious these were an issue and on top of that i fitted some new wheels with descent(ish) rubber a couple of days ago and the problem is even more accentuated now....hard braking at 200 over a minorish bump and the car jumps to one side by about a meter.. not too cool feeling!

You commented earlier in the thread about taking a solid bushed car home for the night and the NVH being an issue... Although Ive seen lots of people comment that solid bushs are not an issue and that its the diff bushs that will transmit noise.

Any thoughts to share?

I don't want to comment for the OP but just did solid subframe and diff bushings (aluminum) in my wife's 135i. The diff bushings make quite a racket. If this bothers you go with poly in the diff.

[berns]

Originally Posted by blossom

Hi Alex, I hope button worked out well! Maybe you even scored another PB!(they don't come easily though'-)

How are those power flex sub frame and diff bushs working out? Still solid/ not wearing/ still hard enough?

I need to do mine, right from the start and even the first test drive it was immediately obvious these were an issue and on top of that i fitted some new wheels with descent(ish) rubber a couple of days ago and the problem is even more accentuated now....hard braking at 200 over a minorish bump and the car jumps to one side by about a meter.. not too cool feeling!

You commented earlier in the thread about taking a solid bushed car home for the night and the NVH being an issue... Although Ive seen lots of people comment that solid bushs are not an issue and that its the diff bushs that will transmit noise.

Any thoughts to share?

Originally Posted by Mark Aubele

I don't want to comment for the OP but just did solid subframe and diff bushings (aluminum) in my wife's 135i. The diff bushings make quite a racket. If this bothers you go with poly in the diff.

It's interesting... everyone claims that the solid diff and rear subframe bushings don't have an impact on NVH, but my personal experience is otherwise. The E92 I drove could have just had some diff whine, I guess, but it was more than a subtle noise.

I can say, however, that my PowerFlex black track bushings make zero noise and had no negative impact on the car. They are a bitch to install but they're still in perfect condition and I'm glad I went this route.

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by berns

It's interesting... everyone claims that the solid diff and rear subframe bushings don't have an impact on NVH, but my personal experience is otherwise. The E92 I drove could have just had some diff whine, I guess, but it was more than a subtle noise.

I can say, however, that my PowerFlex black track bushings make zero noise and had no negative impact on the car. They are a bitch to install but they're still in perfect condition and I'm glad I went this route.

I got no NVH increase when I went to solid subframe bushings, but when I tried the same solid bushings on the diff, the NVH increase was insane. It sounded like I had straight-cut gears it was so bad (turns out the diff was also bad, but I didn't find that out for another year). Went down (but still an overall upgrade) to M3 front position bushings and a Powerflex purple rear bushing.

blossom Bushings didn't really help the instability while braking for me. Turning off nannies in the DSC module helped a huge amount with the sway and instability. Could also be your braking technique, I quickly learned that stomping on the pedal and riding through ABS is the least stable way to brake.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

I got no NVH increase when I went to solid subframe bushings, but when I tried the same solid bushings on the diff, the NVH increase was insane. It sounded like I had straight-cut gears it was so bad (turns out the diff was also bad, but I didn't find that out for another year). Went down (but still an overall upgrade) to M3 front position bushings and a Powerflex purple rear bushing.

blossom Bushings didn't really help the instability while braking for me. Turning off nannies in the DSC module helped a huge amount with the sway and instability. Could also be your braking technique, I quickly learned that stomping on the pedal and riding through ABS is the least stable way to brake.

yeah for sure the diff bushings will add tons of NHV. Same as transmission bushings. Gearbox rattles like crazy with poly "race" transmission bushings and a SMFW even at a 900rpm idle.

Subframe mounts didn't seem to change much and neither did upper and lower strut mounts.

[gmx]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

I got no NVH increase when I went to solid subframe bushings, but when I tried the same solid bushings on the diff, the NVH increase was insane. It sounded like I had straight-cut gears it was so bad (turns out the diff was also bad, but I didn't find that out for another year). Went down (but still an overall upgrade) to M3 front position bushings and a Powerflex purple rear bushing.

blossom Bushings didn't really help the instability while braking for me. Turning off nannies in the DSC module helped a huge amount with the sway and instability. Could also be your braking technique, I quickly learned that stomping on the pedal and riding through ABS is the least stable way to brake.

Think about it.
Solid diff bushings, rubber subframe. Most of the NVH is absorbed now by the rubber in the subframe. Solidify that, and now you have nothing really absorbing it, except the property of the metals and existing insulation on the floorplan. That's it.

Considering piecemeal feedback of each component is completely illogical.

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by gmx

Think about it.
Solid diff bushings, rubber subframe. Most of the NVH is absorbed now by the rubber in the subframe. Solidify that, and now you have nothing really absorbing it, except the property of the metals and existing insulation on the floorplan. That's it.

Considering piecemeal feedback of each component is completely illogical.

Except it really isn't illogical. Piecemeal feedback isn't always the most helpful, but it usually is. Me upgrading from 200TW tires to 150TW is a piecemeal upgrade, but the difference is still relevant.

If you're even considering upgrading your diff bushings, you're in the position that you WILL (extremely likely) be replacing your subframe bushings. Of the two, the subframe bushings will net you an infinitely more rewarding driving experience vs just doing diff bushings. Besides, anyone who's done any suspension work to their 1'er has solid or other very rigid, upgraded subframe bushings, it is THE must-do suspension mod for these cars, IMO.

I had the exact same internal debate when I bought my bushings: do I just do the subframe bushings, or do I do the diff bushings, too, since I have the tool? I did both, regretted the diff bushings, and went back and fixed it while I still had the tool.

[gmx]

Well I did not upgrade the diff bushing for that exact reason. I knew it works like a package. Your tyre example is great. A semi/R-comp usually is much noisier right? Worse and more intrusive with solid mounts. So yes, it is illogical to consider each component in isolation and neglect their relationship.

I have also been down that line of messing around with driveline mounts on other platforms. Just not worth it unless there is so much distortion that doesn't let you engage gears for example. Just like we have frequencies for suspension itself. Frequencies for rubber bushes are carefully chosen and analysed under different conditions by OEM themself (obv for OEM metrics & purposes). Secondly, so many people do this and get suckered in by peers "while you're there" or vendors saying stiffer/bigger = better for all sorts of crap and are under the illusion that the aftermarket is an "upgrade". I'd go as far as saying a lot of rubbish out there is just that, a degrade.

Edit: And so, I should really reword this "... I did not upgrade the diff bushing ..." to "I did not change the diff bushing" Or better yet, "degrade" Lol

[berns]

Update: Was close to running my 1:52 lap, but caught up to a buddy in his Vette and he slowed me down at the fastest part of the track unfortunately.
Still a PB, but I'll be back to get it on the 28th and 29th.

Car ran great all day. Changing to E30 and 16psi has kept the stock HPFP happy, and @WedgePerformance has nailed the tune. He's been here since I started tracking this car and it's been a great experience.

[Skotcoop]

Originally Posted by berns

Update: Was close to running my 1:52 lap, but caught up to a buddy in his Vette and he slowed me down at the fastest part of the track unfortunately.
Still a PB, but I'll be back to get it on the 28th and 29th.

Car ran great all day. Changing to E30 and 16psi has kept the stock HPFP happy, and @WedgePerformance has nailed the tune. He's been here since I started tracking this car and it's been a great experience.

Damn that looks so fun. I'm curious how insurance works with racing a street legal car. Are you covered if something happens? Or do they even know you race?