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      06-06-2016, 08:44 AM   #111
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Originally Posted by RyanDavies View Post
Continuing on with the weight reduction, I've done a little more figuring out about how one could get lower.

As posted above, I'm at 2960 now.

Here's what's too heavy that could be reduced further:

1. Front rotors. I know that we can get a 300mm two-piece rotor to drop 5lbs a corner or so up front of rotating, unsprung mass. Just have to get someone to make it. Working on this now. There's 2950.

2. Aluminum calipers. They weigh 2.3lbs less a piece than the OE calipers, and are very cheap (I got mine for $70 for the pair). 2945.

3. Xenons and Premium Sound add 20lbs to my car. 2925 there.

4. Battery. I have a heavy 21lb battery. 15lbs is doable, but it'd be really neat to get one of those 5lb Shorais confirmed to work with our charging systems. That'd be 2910.

5. Seats. I know I'm over 25 now, and will probably be more so when I swap in Sparcos this week, but that will pretty assuredly make it so if you did the right stuff with bracketry, you could get the car under 2900.

I actually don't think I'll save much on an exhaust that'll pass sound over what I've got now, so that'll be exclusively for power. Trying to think about anything else I could do, mostly as a thought experiment.

After radically dropping rebound all around (the upper 50% of JRZ settings are completely useless in any scenario I could ever think of), and increasing front compression, my car now sweeps and transitions much better at the two lots I've tested it on, while maintaining excellent power down. It'll be *better* than it was in Wilmington this weekend in Toledo, hopefully it's as good as it was this weekend.
Rear seats delete? Almost a 45 lbs saving!
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      06-06-2016, 11:35 AM   #112
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Not legal in the STX ruleset....
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      06-06-2016, 03:43 PM   #113
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You can always remove the rear counterweight nestled in the rear re-bar as well... 22.5lbs right there...
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      06-06-2016, 04:33 PM   #114
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Care to cite where that's legal to do?
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      06-07-2016, 12:05 PM   #115
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Not especially, no

Not familiar with your rule set tbh...
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BSM 2010MY Euro 135i 6MT with many mods... Build thread below

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1264997
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      06-07-2016, 06:22 PM   #116
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Just installed a Sparco Evo driver's seat tonight, and a Sparco Sprint passenger seat. Sadly, this adds some weight to the car, but I'll feel a hell of a lot safer in them, and it is a LOT more comfortable for some of the longer trips to events (I'm putting something like 14K on the car this year traveling to/from events).

FWIW, if I were to meet minimum seat weight, it would shed an additional 14lbs off the car beyond what it weighed before (and 20 now). 2900 is absolutely possible for a zero-option non-sunroof car, without any doubt, in STX trim.
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      06-07-2016, 08:24 PM   #117
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Really enjoying this build thread. As a fellow autox'er coming from the sandbox, I hope you document the DC tour well! I ended up not being able to make it.
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      06-08-2016, 05:00 AM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanDavies View Post
Just installed a Sparco Evo driver's seat tonight, and a Sparco Sprint passenger seat. Sadly, this adds some weight to the car,
How is this possible.... Sparco evo + fittings weight is about 15kg while stock manual seats are 25kg each!
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      06-08-2016, 09:10 AM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexR6 View Post
How is this possible.... Sparco evo + fittings weight is about 15kg while stock manual seats are 25kg each!
Can you stop posting gibberish in my thread? The stock seats were not what was replaced. This is the second time in basically three days you've posted without reading any background information.
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      06-08-2016, 01:11 PM   #120
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Originally Posted by RyanDavies View Post
Can you stop posting gibberish in my thread? The stock seats were not what was replaced. This is the second time in basically three days you've posted without reading any background information.
Oh sorry I will study your carrer and history before posting.... can I find any information on wikipedia?

Anyway I have just found out how you can loose weight for autocross... leave at home your huge ego, that must be very heavy (and with no reason)
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      06-08-2016, 02:39 PM   #121
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Or, you could bother to read the thread you're posting in...
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      06-23-2017, 07:06 AM   #122
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So, after this car basically sat after a number of parts issues / other stuff (I bought a C5Z06 which I've had substantially more success in, and made a bunch of my money back on parts), I've decided to un-mothball it a bit. I also sold my other daily driver, so the 128 is now the actual daily driver.

The basic changes that happened after last season:
- Stock seats put back in.
- Stock battery put back in.
- JRZs / Camber Plates Sold.
- Custom offset lower control arms sold.

After some conversations with folks earlier this year, I actually ended up picking up a set of incredibly cheap Megan Racing (yes, really...) shocks for the car. Jeff Wong, a national champion solo driver, and shock tech, developed a set for his FRS, and has the ability to revalve/modify these as needed, so this was mostly a "how bad could it be", combined with a desire to lower the car and fit the Forgestars back on it, solely for aesthetic reasons.

I installed the Megans last week, and ran into a couple issues. My goals for this car now are basically to get the 450lb (come with the shocks!) springs on, swap the rear 12K springs for some 850lb springs, get the SuperPro front bar back on, and fit some 245 Rival S 1.5s on, and see what's what. The car will be almost 200lbs over weight, and about 100lbs over where I used to have mine even with light-ish weight prep done, but it's a suitable platform to get the handling working, and it'll also be a nice enough car to drive around on the street every day. It still makes STX power (241whp, 221 wtq on a Dynojet).

First, the camber plates that come with the megans have non-countersunk adjustment screws which butt into the strut tower, preventing full camber adjustment. It looks like the studs on the plate are long enough I can just put a spacer under the strut tower, sandwiched between that in the plate, and that'll space it down enough to tuck the camber plate under the strut tower opening, allowing a LOT of adjustment (I could custom mill a new top part of the plate if I wanted even more). Also, the strut tube on the Megans is quite a bit thicker, along with an adjustment perch for ride height in the way of the tire (separate from teh preload adjustment, which would be very nice if the car was NOT tire limited by it). I'd already decided to use 245 Rival S over the 255 RE71R or Rival S, because of the gearing help it offers, and the feel improvement on the 245, while being nearly the same mounted width, so this will likely not be an issue, even if I need a bit more spacer than before up front.

I've acquired some 245 RE71R takeoffs to use to do general testing, and some M3 lower arms (to substitute for STX-legal offset camber bushings until winter). I've also got a 245 Rival S for test fitment, so we'll see what's needed to make that work.
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      06-26-2017, 11:14 AM   #123
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Glad to see you back in the fold! I am finally having some success with my car and I think you are spot-on with your springs. My current springs are 7kg/12kg and I am happy with the balance but need to go up a bit in spring-rate, I am finding the car is still rolling a fair bit and needs some help with weight transfer particularly under braking.

I am planning on 8kg / 13kg but was also contemplating turfing my rear swaybar and going up a little to 14kg. The rear bar is not particularly effective and seems like it is primarily just adding weight (I wish I had thought about this before dropping the subframe and installing this...)

Mark
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      06-26-2017, 12:21 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowside67 View Post
Glad to see you back in the fold! I am finally having some success with my car and I think you are spot-on with your springs. My current springs are 7kg/12kg and I am happy with the balance but need to go up a bit in spring-rate, I am finding the car is still rolling a fair bit and needs some help with weight transfer particularly under braking.

I am planning on 8kg / 13kg but was also contemplating turfing my rear swaybar and going up a little to 14kg. The rear bar is not particularly effective and seems like it is primarily just adding weight (I wish I had thought about this before dropping the subframe and installing this...)

Mark
I went down that road before. It's more effective than you think. The rear bar is almost a 1:1 motion ratio. Spring rate = 30lbs at the wheel for every 100 at the spring. So, you can do the math with exactly how much spring you'd need to run to get rid of the rear bar (he had a 19mm, I actually have a 20mm bar on mine now). Kyle warned me about this last year and I was still stupid enough to try it. It was turrrible. And I'd added 200lbs of rear spring to make up for it, wasn't NEARLY enough. To run no rear, I'd end up at like 450/1600. And GLHF with longitudinal weight transfer there. If my car does not have the lateral balance I want with this spring rate, I'm tossing an M3 'vert bar on the back.
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      06-26-2017, 12:23 PM   #125
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Another note, after switching to the Megans on my car. They are a level of comfortable above the JRZs to a degree I can't explain. At 450/850, and damping set dead middle on all shocks, the car rides like a stock 128.
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      06-29-2017, 07:41 AM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanDavies View Post
Another note, after switching to the Megans on my car. They are a level of comfortable above the JRZs to a degree I can't explain. At 450/850, and damping set dead middle on all shocks, the car rides like a stock 128.
Awesome! I sold my JRZs as well. I've driven my car 3 times since March after moving to NYC (didn't take the 1er). I think I will end up doing the cheap coilover route tbh though, something very very simple and low maintenance because I just have so little time for anything more. Have any pics with those Megans installed?
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      06-29-2017, 11:19 AM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanDavies View Post
Another note, after switching to the Megans on my car. They are a level of comfortable above the JRZs to a degree I can't explain. At 450/850, and damping set dead middle on all shocks, the car rides like a stock 128.
Which model Megans are they?
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      06-29-2017, 03:39 PM   #128
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Euro IIs.

So, I put them on using stock wheels and drove it around like that. Strut/wheel clearance is 3mm closer, if that is relevant to you.

Their camber plate design is a bit annoying. I very much liked it before adjusting because the adjuster is tucked under the tower, which in theory would allow for much more camber adjustment than the JRZs I had before. However, the set screws that hold them in place stick above the plate, and interfere with the shock tower. I've had some Vorshlag plates laying around I picked up for $80 used a while ago, so I'm just going to get the correct bearing spacers for those and switch to them. A countersunk upper part of the plate for the screws, which is what i'd do if I didn't have the Vorshlag plates already, would be easy to machine.

You can get around 1.8-2 degrees without modifying the plate, with stock lower arms. So 2.5-2.7 with M3 lower arms if you wanted to keep the Megan plates unmodified.

My JRZs as delivered had such a f**ked up valving in them I'm not surprised the Megan's ride much better. Fixed that then sold them, sigh. Between those and the SuperPro lowers, my car was a mess last year.

I'm trying to figure out what to do about oil temps on track / an easy oil cooler solution.
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      06-29-2017, 03:58 PM   #129
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I'm surprised to hear how well they rode, given the spring rates you were running. For the price they are quite appealing.
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      06-29-2017, 08:50 PM   #130
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Yeah. I'll see how they actually work out. They come with a 450lb spring (448) up front. Undersprung in the back (672). But you can fit a 2.5 or 60mm spring to it...
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