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      07-16-2014, 09:14 AM   #89
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Hm. Interesting thing about the voltage faults via monitoring. I'll turn on the other folding mirror settings and see if it works. Long press did not work just now.

Yeah, set the voltage for very high across the board for the AE.
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      07-16-2014, 01:32 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrewcoja View Post

Edit: If I turn off the voltage monitoring, does that mean it doesn't need a resistor to trick the ECU for LED lights?
I'm 99.999% sure the answer to your question is yes. I believe the resistor trick is to change the voltage to the "acceptable" one by stock ECU parameters. However disabling them just doesn't enforce any parameters, so yes.

You can also do the same with LED side markers etc, but I'm not really into modifying my physical lighting hardware, only the software personally. Nothing against it, I just don't have any first hand experience, but my understanding is the point of the voltage monitoring coding is to let you run LEDs without any resistors to fail on you. I had some aftermarket headlights on my old 325i and needed to do that for the LED side markers. Coding only, no resistors. However those lights sucked ass and I sold them for OEM xenons to get something that wouldn't leak and have bulbs fail lol.
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      07-16-2014, 03:12 PM   #91
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OK, can confirm. Need the CAS and FRM modules edited to allow for folding mirrors. Set both options to Active and delay to 0.0s and it works perfectly.

Now to find a good set of halogen bulbs. Cant decide if I want white or yellow. Decisions.
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      07-16-2014, 09:14 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
Cant decide if I want white or yellow. Decisions.
You DO NOT WANT YELLOW.
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      07-17-2014, 08:00 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 135ivert View Post
You DO NOT WANT YELLOW.
I would do amber, but no one makes halogen amber bulbs and I do not want LEDs due to all the bullshit that has to live inside the housings with them.
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      07-17-2014, 06:40 PM   #94
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Just ordered a set of $9.00 H8 6000k halogens myself today from the Bay. Will post before and after pics after installation.
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      07-17-2014, 06:50 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
I would do amber, but no one makes halogen amber bulbs and I do not want LEDs due to all the bullshit that has to live inside the housings with them.
I hear you. I had the driver's side LED's installed and thought it looked great. Then I thought about the ballast & heatsink, and thought about AHL errors and removed it shortly thereafter.

I was talking about aesthetically, yellow just is not my thing. I'm a big fan of 4300-5000K.
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      07-17-2014, 06:58 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by highbrowed View Post
Just ordered a set of $9.00 H8 6000k halogens myself today from the Bay. Will post before and after pics after installation.
Please do. Thanks in advance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 135ivert View Post
I hear you. I had the driver's side LED's installed and thought it looked great. Then I thought about the ballast & heatsink, and thought about AHL errors and removed it shortly thereafter.

I was talking about aesthetically, yellow just is not my thing. I'm a big fan of 4300-5000K.
Dunno, I did the White LEDs thing for a few months. Got really bored with it. Might do white bulbs with this voltage coded up if I can get them cheap enough. Gotta be honest, a JDM type yellow is really interesting to me. I'm not talking a dim yellow, but a 2500-3000k hyper yellow.
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      07-17-2014, 09:08 PM   #97
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I liked how these were looking so I bought the cheapest 5000K bulbs I could find on ebay just to try it out. A massive $7.85 later and below is what I got. This is without voltage modification. Don't even know if i should even bother with voltage...I'm already pretty happy with how it looks. (edit: i changed voltages because when you turn on the headlights the ring dims and looks yellowish. Since I was in there anyways I just set things to very high like earlier in the thread. It does get a bit brighter...nothing crazy though. Unfortunately the other ring will always be dimmer. Hard to get a good picture cause cell camera adjusts to the extra brightness.)

Thanks to the guy who thought of this.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/121374214473...84.m1497.l2649
(Oh, I suppose their were some cheaper, but they'd have to ship all the way from China. I chose the cheapest US side.)


Obviously, left is old and right is new.




A tip for those doing the install. If you take out the screws on the top of the head light (one is a torx, other just pull the 10mm bolt) it gives you a couple mm more to work with. The passenger side you don't even need to pull out the whole cover unless you have really thick hands.

This picture is the drivers side. Bulb you want to change is the one on the left. Make sure you get the cover in those tabs at the bottom or else it won't close right.

Last edited by muddtt; 07-17-2014 at 11:29 PM..
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      07-18-2014, 12:12 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muddtt View Post
I liked how these were looking so I bought the cheapest 5000K bulbs I could find on ebay just to try it out. A massive $7.85 later and below is what I got. This is without voltage modification. Don't even know if i should even bother with voltage...I'm already pretty happy with how it looks. (edit: i changed voltages because when you turn on the headlights the ring dims and looks yellowish. Since I was in there anyways I just set things to very high like earlier in the thread. It does get a bit brighter...nothing crazy though. Unfortunately the other ring will always be dimmer. Hard to get a good picture cause cell camera adjusts to the extra brightness.)

Thanks to the guy who thought of this.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/121374214473...84.m1497.l2649
(Oh, I suppose their were some cheaper, but they'd have to ship all the way from China. I chose the cheapest US side.)


Obviously, left is old and right is new.




A tip for those doing the install. If you take out the screws on the top of the head light (one is a torx, other just pull the 10mm bolt) it gives you a couple mm more to work with. The passenger side you don't even need to pull out the whole cover unless you have really thick hands.

This picture is the drivers side. Bulb you want to change is the one on the left. Make sure you get the cover in those tabs at the bottom or else it won't close right.
It says fog lights only
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      07-18-2014, 02:49 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com View Post
It says fog lights only
35W is the key for our halogen angel eyes. It really doesn't matter beyond that. It can say headlight, foglight, asslight, whatever.
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      07-18-2014, 03:00 PM   #100
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MMMMM asslight.
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      07-18-2014, 03:27 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
35W is the key for our halogen angel eyes. It really doesn't matter beyond that. It can say headlight, foglight, asslight, whatever.
Im not debating any of that, im just pointing to the fact that they mentioned it in bold that it is only for fog lights.
They must have a reason
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      07-18-2014, 06:27 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com View Post
They must have a reason
Probably marketing. They likely have a product where they put in bold that it's only for headlights and charge more for them.. Who knows.
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      07-19-2014, 09:40 AM   #103
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I went out and swapped the 10 dollar 5000k bulbs I bought for ten dollars into my car. It's 930 am so I obviously can't get a great idea of what they look like yet. One thing I noticed is that my drivers side outer ring seems to be dimmer than my passenger side outer ring. I reseated the bulb but it's still there. For 10 dollars it can't be too bad. If not, I'll just switch my PIAA bulbs back in because they've been awesome so far. I don't remember the passenger side cover being so annoying to get back on. Driver's side came off and on in a matter of seconds. Passenger side was a real bitch getting the tabs to go back in. Felt like I was about to break something.

Also on the topic of coding. I can't get the folding mirrors to work. I coded the CAS and FRM modules to allow folding mirrors on lock. I set it to 0 seconds and nothing. I set it to .5 seconds and nothing. No amount of holding the lock button will fold the mirrors.
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      07-19-2014, 11:45 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrewcoja View Post
Also on the topic of coding. I can't get the folding mirrors to work. I coded the CAS and FRM modules to allow folding mirrors on lock. I set it to 0 seconds and nothing. I set it to .5 seconds and nothing. No amount of holding the lock button will fold the mirrors.
I'll take a look at my coded options today if I can remember and see if there's anything else you have to set.
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      07-26-2014, 01:34 PM   #105
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Ok, BAD NEWS....

The cheap bulb I bought burnt out. That's not the part that concerns me. I went to go pull it out and replace it with stock until I got a new bulb. Bulb was stuck like a mother #@$@#$. After pliers and a lot of frustration, and the plastic backing on the bulb totally breaking apart it finally came out. I thought that would be the end of it...nope. Turns out the stock bulbs won't fit anymore. I tried them every which way and they don't go back in. Seems like the plastic housing shrunk or something??? I'm going to have to dremel the tabs down a tiny bit so it'll fit back inside. I haven't had time to check the other side yet. I'll do that later this evening and report back. But for now, I'm going to work on getting the stock ones back in and the voltages back down. Oh well.

So was it the voltage? or was it the cheap bulb? who knows.
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      07-26-2014, 08:52 PM   #106
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I heard about yours and decided to swap mine back out. In a twist of fate while the passenger side back cover is a pain to take off and put back on, the passenger side bulb was very easy to take out. The drivers side was stuck in there. At first it was hard to turn and when I got it to turn, it didn't want to come out. After much elbow grease it came out. I put the new bulbs in. The drivers side would go in but doesn't want to turn. It's in, so whatevs. Lesson learned, don't buy cheap bulbs. They weren't even very bright compared to my PIAAs.

Another thing I've run into is the drivers side outer rim is dimmer than the passenger side outer rim. This has been around for as long as I can remember and is the reason I wanted to change the bulbs in the first place.

Passenger side:


Driver side:


The outer ring on the passenger side is a bit dimmer than the inner ring but it's the same color. This is normal for the lazy headlights BMW made. The driver side outer ring is a lot dimmer than the inner ring and is annoying me. This has been around since before I ever changed from OEM bulbs or coded anything. Any ideas as to what could cause this? Whatever brings the light to the outer ring being dirty? The dreaded heat issue causing it to yellow?
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      07-26-2014, 09:49 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrewcoja View Post
The outer ring on the passenger side is a bit dimmer than the inner ring but it's the same color. This is normal for the lazy headlights BMW made. The driver side outer ring is a lot dimmer than the inner ring and is annoying me. This has been around since before I ever changed from OEM bulbs or coded anything. Any ideas as to what could cause this? Whatever brings the light to the outer ring being dirty? The dreaded heat issue causing it to yellow?
What bulbs are in for this picture?

I suspect that the bulb housing on yours is slightly differently shaped than the other side, leading to even more inefficient light transfer all the way through that outer light tube. Much like how bulbs have to be put in the right way to be the brightest, you cant on yours because the housing doesn't line up right.

Just speculation of course, but my best guess.
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      07-27-2014, 01:51 AM   #108
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Update on my situation:

Finally had time to finish messing with it. As stated before, drivers side is a B@#$@#. The stock went back in but only turned 10% of what it should. It seems stuck in there pretty good though. The passenger side was much worse. It took forever to get the cheap bulb out. The stock bulb would only press fit back in but wouldn't turn. Seems stuck pretty good...hopefully it doesn't wiggle out over time. Everything is up and running again...voltages back to normal. Yellow sucks, but it's working so whatever.

Update: Pictures added to show the carnage of how hard it was to take out.


Last edited by muddtt; 07-30-2014 at 06:29 PM..
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      07-31-2014, 11:26 AM   #109
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IMO problems are due to cheap bulb.

Voltage isn't going to make that thing get stuck in there like a bastard.

I'd get PIAA bulbs or something in the future if I was to do it again, only because of how hard it is to get the lights in/out in that damn tight spot.

Still no issues here though.
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      08-01-2014, 03:49 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
What bulbs are in for this picture?

I suspect that the bulb housing on yours is slightly differently shaped than the other side, leading to even more inefficient light transfer all the way through that outer light tube. Much like how bulbs have to be put in the right way to be the brightest, you cant on yours because the housing doesn't line up right.

Just speculation of course, but my best guess.
In those pictures are the PIAA Precious White 4800K. I thought it might be something like that. That the metal bit might be blocking where the outer ring gets lit from. I'll try rotating the bulb around sometime.
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