Swap 135i gauge/cluster for 1M cluster

[AnooooOH]

Originally Posted by KD135

I brought a used 1m cluster some time ago, can I install this and code it while its in the car ? Or do I have to give this to bmw prior to installing it

it depends...

you can drive it when it was coded on a 135i before.
if not, you will have to get it coded before you install it.

[1N54NE]

I just purchase a m3 cluster for my 135i.
The fitment is way off.
what exactly needs to be sanded down???

[AnooooOH]

you have to sand down the sides und a little bit of the lower part. have a look here:



take your time for the sanding. sand a bit, install the cluster and again and again.

[timhatimay]

I recently went down a similar road of fitting the M3 cluster to my 135i. AnooooOH was very helpful and informative on the topic (big thanks to him)! I'll make a thread once everything is completed, but in the meantime I'll share what I've found out so far.

I feel like there are a lot of myths about this retro-fit, so let me address those first:

1. It's a plug and play fit - No WAY! It's not plug and play at all. Requires quite a bit of sanding, because the size and shape of the 3er is different from the 1er.

2. Nothing will work - In my case this was not true. The Dynamic redline works (goes from 4500 cold to about 6800 hot). The cruise control indicator works (little line on the 3er that shows the cruise control set speed). The speedo works and seems accurate, although I didn't go over 80 mph to test the progressive part on the higher speeds. The RPM's work, but were off a bit on my car (~200 RPM). I verified them vs. my P3 V@ gauge. All of the lights and indicators worked as expected.

3. Everything will work - This is not likely. All of the options need to be the same on the cars (unlikely) otherwise you will get an error, or some features may not work. I have an Electronic Damping Control error on my car every time it starts. Could be other problems depending on the options of your car and donor car.

4. Mileage will match right up - In my case this was not true. It went up to the higher mileage on the cluster, which happened to just be a few thousand higher. Also have a tamper dot on the mileage. Note when you swap back to the original cluster the mileage goes to the appropriate amount and the tamper dot is not there.

5. It does not need to be coded - This is False! At least in my case, it does need to be coded. The cluster needs to be coded to the VIN. I didn't get it done yet, but I'm sending it out to get coded in the next few days. This should resolve the mileage, tamper dot, and also match up any options to YOUR car. Then there should be no functionality issues.


*My experiences are all with a used gauge. YMMV (literally!) if you have a brand new gauge from the dealership. AnooooOH's picture below is pretty much right on for the physical fit. I found I needed to do quite a bit on the bottom corners. I also had to do a little extra on the side near the top. As suggested take it slow, and see where the conflicts are and try it out a bunch. I probably sanded a bit to much off the side near the bottom, so there is a tiny gap, but it is not noticeable normally. I plan to put a piece of felt on the bottom for the curvature and on the sides and this should fill up the gap and make it very hard to see. Also the top mount will have to be slightly modified to fit. Either drill new holes in the cluster or in the gauge hood. Can also just kind of force the screws in if you have some longer screws.

So far this mod has been a little bit of a pain in the rear, however when driving with the gauges it makes it all worth it, even though I just did it for a little trial. The backlighting and whole scheme of the M3 is really just awesome. All the little details make it really nice. You will love it if you take the time to do it properly!

Tim

[AnooooOH]

does anyone have the m3 gauge together with a jb4?
terry said, it`ll not work!

[timhatimay]

I did when I tried it out, and I plan to run the JB4 with M3 gauge together after the coding. I can't see it affecting the tune functionality, but I can tell you the gauge high-jacking doesn't work properly. You can always make all changes with a laptop or just by counting if need be. Was this the only conflict or was there another problem?

Tim

[BLU135i]

Where can I get a 1m cluster in the US. That site that was posted in in German I think.

[AnooooOH]

Originally Posted by timhatimay

I did when I tried it out, and I plan to run the JB4 with M3 gauge together after the coding. I can't see it affecting the tune functionality, but I can tell you the gauge high-jacking doesn't work properly. You can always make all changes with a laptop or just by counting if need be. Was this the only conflict or was there another problem?

Tim

So do you think it will work to switch the maps with the steering wheel?
I think it just wouldn`t be adjusted right.
but I think you can just count the clicks.
Should still be pretty easy to switch from map 0 to map 2.

[timhatimay]

Originally Posted by AnooooOH

So do you think it will work to switch the maps with the steering wheel?
I think it just wouldn`t be adjusted right.
but I think you can just count the clicks.
Should still be pretty easy to switch from map 0 to map 2.

I think it will still work. I switched from map 5 to bypass while using the m3 gauges. I just counted back to 0. So it definitely works (confirmed bypass with boost gauge). The only problem I can foresee is that map 5 on the M3 gauges was almost to redline, so it seems like each press on the tach moved the needle further. When I finally get everything coded and installed, I'll do a full report. I think the 335i gauge calibration might be a better match, but I have to check. I'll let you know.

Tim

[Downeaster1]

Hey all, I was hoping someone could fill me in on this. would an alternative to coding the new cluster just be to swap the EEPROM chips?

[Downeaster1]

Update: Well I bought a used cluster from an E92 M3 with the same production month and year as my 135is, and I'll tell you, it's plug and play. Sort of. Everything works and is accurate, however the milage tamper light is on and its saying I have a EDC malfunction. Obviously, because there is no EDC in an E82. I haven't physically modified the cluster yet, but I'm doing that now.

[questionable]

Did changing the chip in it work ?

[Downeaster1]

Originally Posted by questionable

Did changing the chip in it work ?

I haven't swapped the chip yet. Just plugged in the cluster.

[questionable]

let me know how you go swapping the chip arround.

[leholtet]

Did this to my 123d

[loesch]

I really wish those could be had for less money. They are soo sweet

[leholtet]

I payed about 50 bucks from Poland incl white leds

[loesch]

Is that a real M gauge face or are they making them? Do they have a website or anything?

[MBM6F]

So if I got an m3 cluster, had it coded to my vin, and did the physical alterations would I be good to go?

[leholtet]

Originally Posted by loesch

Is that a real M gauge face or are they making them? Do they have a website or anything?

They are not real, they are custom made for my 123d, but its a 100% similar of the 1M

I got them from best-white-dials on ebay!

[berne]

Originally Posted by leholtet

I payed about 50 bucks from Poland incl white leds

is this just "skins" or a brand new cluster?


need coding hard to install?

[Downeaster1]

Originally Posted by berne

is this just "skins" or a brand new cluster?


need coding hard to install?

It's just an interior faceplate with new white LED's opposed to the amber ones.