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      01-05-2010, 07:04 PM   #1
SpacE82
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Question "Service Engine Soon" and O2 Sim

I have the CP-E catless downpipes and exhaust. I recently got an O2 sim from Riss Racing and had it installed. It says on the install instructions that you may need to add additional resistors (that come with the O2 sim) if the SES light comes back on, but to give it about 50 miles. So the SES light was off for a while and then came back on, I was going to bring it back to the shop that installed the O2 sim to have the additional resisters installed this weekend.....but the SES light is off now anyone have any ideas??? Its been pretty cold here in Chicago, single digits and teens..could that have any affect on it?
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      01-05-2010, 07:10 PM   #2
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It's probably worth your money to pick up a cheap scan tool at Autozone. They'll read and clear the basic codes, and at least that way you'll know that the SES light is a result of the catless pipes, and not something else going wrong.

The codes you get with catless pipes are set after the car has performed a self test on the converters. It does that by monitoring the difference between the front O2 sensors and the rear ones. The test is only perfomed once the car is fully warmed up, and only periodicaly. After a certain number of normal starts the code will reset itself. That could explain why you're seeing it go on, then off for a while, then back on.

After it's been cleared, I've had mine stay off for as long as a week because I was only doing short trips and it never completed the self tests.

FYI, if you've got a DINAN tune on the car, the O2 sims might not work. Something in their software uses the rear sensors apparently.
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      01-05-2010, 07:37 PM   #3
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Yeah, the shop i went to scanned it so I think I'm going to bring it to them and have the resisters installed and have them rescan it..

So when it completed the self tests, what happened? Is your SES light on or off?
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      01-05-2010, 07:45 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpacE82 View Post
Yeah, the shop i went to scanned it so I think I'm going to bring it to them and have the resisters installed and have them rescan it..

So when it completed the self tests, what happened? Is your SES light on or off?

Mine's on right now, but I don't have the Sims installed. When I had them on, once it was reset it would stay off. I've got the Burger Sims though, and I'm not sure if they've ever needed resistors to work right. I could never really understand why RR didn't just fix their Sims instead of telling people to put resistors on them.
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      01-05-2010, 09:31 PM   #5
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Have the same problem but mine comes on for a week and off for a week,got a mind of its own.
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      01-05-2010, 10:15 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by img View Post
Have the same problem but mine comes on for a week and off for a week,got a mind of its own.
Do you have Sims installed?
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      01-05-2010, 10:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremyc74 View Post
Mine's on right now, but I don't have the Sims installed. When I had them on, once it was reset it would stay off. I've got the Burger Sims though, and I'm not sure if they've ever needed resistors to work right. I could never really understand why RR didn't just fix their Sims instead of telling people to put resistors on them.
I have a BMS sim on my car, which has been 'tweaked' by Terry once already and it still doesn't work.

From what I've heard, there are some really quirky issues with O2 sensors on some, but not all N54 cars... So the companies that produce the sims aren't necessarily to blame. I've just been waiting for more details on these issues to come in to the light...

I've had the sim installed since my downpipes went on and an SES for just about the same amount of time.
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      01-06-2010, 04:56 AM   #8
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Did you check to see if you twisted up the o2 wires when tightening them to the downpipes too much?
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      01-06-2010, 08:51 AM   #9
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They weren't connected to the downpipes...they are connected to the ECU I think (the box under the hood).

So what should i do? Should I wait for the light to come back on or have the resisters installed friday regardless?
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      01-06-2010, 08:56 AM   #10
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I believe the temp does have an effect...mine seems to throw the ses in colder weather but when it's hot (most of the time in TX) it stays off.
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      01-06-2010, 08:57 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtsherri View Post
I have a BMS sim on my car, which has been 'tweaked' by Terry once already and it still doesn't work.

From what I've heard, there are some really quirky issues with O2 sensors on some, but not all N54 cars... So the companies that produce the sims aren't necessarily to blame. I've just been waiting for more details on these issues to come in to the light...

I've had the sim installed since my downpipes went on and an SES for just about the same amount of time.

That's interesting, and makes more sense than it being something wrong with the RR sims.

I'm wondering if the reason the sims don't work well on certain cars has something to do with the software revision.
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      01-06-2010, 10:24 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpacE82 View Post
They weren't connected to the downpipes...they are connected to the ECU I think (the box under the hood).

So what should i do? Should I wait for the light to come back on or have the resisters installed friday regardless?
No, actually I meant the O2 Sensors themselves not the O2 Sim/Fix. You did remember to reconnect them?
If so, you didn't twist up the wiring too much when tightening them to the downpipes. I think it could damage the sensors if that happened.
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      01-06-2010, 11:25 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randomquickness View Post
I believe the temp does have an effect...mine seems to throw the ses in colder weather but when it's hot (most of the time in TX) it stays off.

HERE TOO.... MIE JUST WENT ON A COUPLE DAYS AGO HERE IN NY WHEN IT WAS LIKE BELOW 0 TEMP. OUT SO I THINK COLD WEATHER DOES SOMETHING OT IT....... NEVER HAPPENED BEFORE... MUST BE THE COLD!!!!!
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      01-19-2010, 08:19 PM   #14
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FYI - I switched to the new, adjustable "v3" downpipe fix from BMS and no longer have an SES. I've only got about 30-40 miles on it since the switch, but generally I would have thrown the code 5 times over by now.

The nice thing is that even after some more miles, if the code(s) DID, by chance, come back, it can be fine tuned even further.
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      01-20-2010, 08:25 AM   #15
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^I'll have to look into that. My code hasn't come on again though. Also, what do you mean that it can be fined tuned?
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      01-20-2010, 08:40 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpacE82 View Post
^I'll have to look into that. My code hasn't come on again though. Also, what do you mean that it can be fined tuned?
Glad to hear it!

Regarding "fine tuning," there's a dial on the new one that allows you to adjust the sensitivity. Currently, the "magic spot" seems to be the 6 o'clock position for many of the current users.

Here's a pic:

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      01-20-2010, 11:48 AM   #17
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Oh ok, thats interesting because the Riss Racing Sim was just a box...is the BMS fix better/different?
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      01-20-2010, 10:16 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpacE82 View Post
Oh ok, thats interesting because the Riss Racing Sim was just a box...is the BMS fix better/different?
To my understanding, the Riss fix is similar to the "v2" BMS fix in that they used basic resistors to alter the signals sent to the DME.

Obviously I didn't design the thing, nor am I an expert, but to my understanding the v3 fix is the same, basic premise, in that the signal is being altered; however, it's not a static fix - this one has the ability to be adjusted to accommodate different cars and environments. Much more robust, if you will.
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