BMW Garage BMW Meets Register Today's Posts




 

Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      03-17-2012, 09:06 PM   #23
Simsims
Captain
Canada
37
Rep
615
Posts

Drives: 119/220
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ottawa

iTrader: (0)

and btw to the ignorant cocky bastards up top

try driving 1M fast in shanghai.
__________________
VO 1M - everything except sunroof
RIP BSM 135i 2009-2011
Appreciate 0
      03-17-2012, 09:14 PM   #24
Ender_
Lieutenant
54
Rep
509
Posts

Drives: BMW 1M VO, V60 Polestar '24
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Ottawa

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Simsims View Post
and btw to the ignorant cocky bastards up top
Are you referring to me?
Appreciate 0
      03-17-2012, 09:51 PM   #25
mild7
BABY IN HOME
China
5
Rep
8
Posts

Drives: 1M VO
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: CHINA

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ///BYU
robertm had a good post on this topic here:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...5#post11186965

Quote:
Originally Posted by robertm View Post
Here's a halfway decent article on the proper way to shift. Those of you that are pulling the shift lever off are using poor technique. Practice shifting this way for a while and it will become second nature. It will also make the equipment last longer. There is no need to ever 'shift hard'.

Shifting
You may think shifting is a no-brainer function, but in a sport where the difference of winning may be 1/100th of a second, every detail counts. In this discussion we point out how to acheive smooth, quick shifts that are easy on the hardware. We're assuming the use of a typical H-box shifter in a street car for this.

Many people fall into two bad habits on the street when shifting. First, Hollywood has taught everyone that it looks cool to always leave your right hand on the shift knob. Wrong! You may as well tie your hand behind your back as leave it on the shift knob. Your hand belongs on the steering wheel--always. When you need to shift--shift, and get your hand back on the wheel. Don't even rest it on the shifter for a few seconds a head of time to "get ready." Every time your hand leaves the steering wheel you've given up 50% of the tactile feedback you have from your hands, and 50% of your capability to control the car. If you're racing with other cars around you, you never know when you may get tapped. Even when racing alone, mechanical failure may cause handling trouble. You'll want both hands on the wheel when that happens.

The second bad habit some people have is shifting with excessive force. Too tight a grip, and slamming from one gear to another will actually slow your shifting down, and cause excessive mechanical wear. Proper shifting uses an open palm grip on the top of the shift knob, and a gentle but fast guide from one gear to another. We repeat---all shifting is properly done with the hand open and cupped over the top of the knob, not wrapped around it like a fighter plane control stick.

To shift from the top of the H to the bottom, start by forming a cup with your palm and fingers. Place the palm of the hand over the top of the shift knob. Using the underside of your fingers and your palm against the knob, use a smooth straight-line motion to guide the lever to the next gear. Assuming the shift lever has a fairly short travel, the action involves your wrist for the majority of the movement. Do not attempt to slam it or force it faster than it wants to go. If you are locking your wrist and moving your whole arm at the shoulder, you are using too much force.

To shift from the bottom of the H to the top, again start by forming a cup with your palm and fingers. This time when you place the hand over the shift knob, the emphasis of contact is on the heel of the palm. Start with the wrist slightly bent up. Push the lever using the palm heel in a straight line using your wrist to extend the position of the palm heel while following through with a gentle push of the arm. This shift is more arm motion than wrist.

When shifting across the H such as between 2nd and 3rd gears, do not try to make a conscious jog in your hand movements. The linkage needs very little input to make the diagonal path across neutral. Your shift should almost look like a straight diagonal line. Making a distinctive zig zag through neutral is strong-arming the shifter and will slow the shift down.

Using smooth, soft control of the lever does not imply doing it slowly. A gentle force of the lever will allow the shift linkage to move freely through its natural motions. If you strong-arm the motion you will end up forcing the linkage through lines that have more resistance. This will slow the shifting down. Use as much wrist movement as possible in place of moving the whole arm.

Some of you may be tempted to learn the techniques of "speed shifting"--shifting without using the clutch--in the interest of saving time. Many schools and professional racers have shown over and over that there is no speed or lap time advantage to this, and it carries a much higher risk of gear box damage.
I thought it was very helpful advice. (Thanks robertm!). I think this might have been the original source for the article:

http://www.turnfast.com/tech_driving/driving_shifting

Enjoy your 1M!
Thanks to you and the original author- robertM!
I found that shifting from 1-2 takes more time than the rest. I was looking for answers to that, after reading this post I will just try to smooth it and by practicing I am sure I will get that perfect.
Appreciate 0
      03-18-2012, 12:16 PM   #26
Fundahl
Captain
United_States
8
Rep
704
Posts

Drives: VO 1M, 300zx TT
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Corpus Christi, Texas

iTrader: (0)

Yeah man just take your time. I'd rather see you burn the clutch than ruin the synchros! And you don't really ever need to shift back into first unless you come to a stop or are at parking lot speeds. First is the trickiest one to rev match properly.

Most of the light driving I do in my 1M I just use my fingers/palm and kind of gently but quickly shove it in the proper direction. The 1M shifts so easy its just amazing to me. Try driving my 300zx at 24 psi and getting a clean shift with its dying synchros, the 1M gearbox makes it as effortless as breathing!
Appreciate 0
      03-20-2012, 07:02 AM   #27
cjswee
Enlisted Member
3
Rep
40
Posts

Drives: Status:111
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maryland

iTrader: (0)

Ender

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ender_ View Post
Sorry guys but the criticism is justified. The 1M just like any sports car should not be someone's first car or first 6spd(5spd) . You lack respect for the car then.
There is no excuse for not knowing the basics at this point.

The criticism is not justified. No one cares what your ideas of proper car progression is and with that attitude I'm sure you'll make lots of friends here; I guess you know everything. You lack respect for the forum. There is no excuse for being a prick.
Appreciate 0
      03-20-2012, 08:53 AM   #28
EmmDrei
Lieutenant
Germany
26
Rep
401
Posts

Drives: 2011 Saphire Black 1M Coupé
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: 300km to the Nordschleife

iTrader: (0)

@mild7: If you want to see perfect H-pattern shifting, watch the video below. That is the owner of the racing team that prepares my 325, driving around the Nordschleife in my car. He can shift to perfection. Very smooth shifts, yet very fast. He never "forces" the stick. In his own car, he usually shifts by just holding the stick with thumb and forefinger (the advantage is, that that way you cannot apply force - especially important in a racecar with shortshift when shiftig... it's to easy to slam into a wrong gear, when up- or downshifting if you simply force the gears).

The only way, that you can keep your foot on the gas when upshifting is, when you are in a car where the ignition is cut, when you move the gearlever. Most non stock racecars are setup that way. If you do that in a stock car without the ignition being cut, you will hit the rev limiter immediately and in the small gears (1, 2, 3), I would be willing to bet, that your clutch and/or driveshafts will not take that kind of beating for long. When downshifting the idea would never make sense and would kill clutch and gearbox at an amazing speed.

Smooth and precise is fast. Everything else kills the equipement, nothing else.

The video:

__________________
The best piece of road - worldwide.
Appreciate 0
      03-20-2012, 01:02 PM   #29
Aetey
Enlisted Member
Aetey's Avatar
Luxembourg
4
Rep
33
Posts

Drives: M Coupe
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Luxembourg

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by mild7 View Post
Thanks, I just want to confirm this "no gas when shift up".
although I felt it is more smooth to maitain a bit gas especially from 3-4
You most certainly don't want to keep the gas down when shifting up, the method described above is most definetly the correct way to shift.

Don't mind the overweening trolls, get in your car and drive it. Practice makes perfect and you'll have it down in no time. Once you're confident, go on to the next level
Appreciate 0
      06-17-2012, 04:03 PM   #30
dorkdog
Big Mouth No Filter
dorkdog's Avatar
United_States
49
Rep
586
Posts

Drives: 128i Montego Blue 6MT Sport
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Puyallup WA

iTrader: (0)

I'm no stranger to being beaten up for the car I drive either. I'd love to drive an M, any M, once or twice but where I drive it doesn't make sense. My 128 does make sense. To me. Apparently I am some poor slob who cannot afford a 135 or 1M and had to 'settle' for a 128, which we all have been told is not really a BMW at all.

I too have driven stick for many years, and had some difficulties with the 128 at first. As far as MY experience, when shifting up the RPMs will drop based on the gear ratio - your RPMs should decrease at the same approximate ratio. RPMs decrease based on throttle response, and this is where different cars can be a challenge at first. Pull off the gas too quickly, and the slope of the RPM decrease may take the RPMs below that required to maintin speed and 'pick up' the momentum. Of course, because of that momentum, this issue is more salient in the lower gear changes.

Downshifting, what has always worked for me is to simply maintain pedal position and do a quick shift before the RPMs increase too high - again, based on throttle response. Downshifting, I pop the clutch and then release it in the lower gear after enough time has passed to where the slope of the throttle response has increased the RPMs to the correct value for speed continuity in the 'new' gear.

It pays to know your gear ratios. For instance, it is possible to force the engine into overspeed by downshifting at too high an RPM. Knowing the ratios allows you to determine a max downshift RPM (and approximate speed) for each gear.

I must add that I learned to drive a stick on a 1963 Volkswagen that had had no clutch for years. My dad taught me how to drive that car by matching the synchros; up until 1980-something I don't think I ever used the clutch in any of my cars. Newer technology makes this practice nearly impossible nowadays.

Don't pay any attention to these clowns who misread your post. It's obvious that you have driven a stick before; I think your question is reasonable but you've got a few folks around here that wish they had your car and will find any way possible to make themselves feel better by belittling you and your question. Noob to BMW not equal to Noob driving.

For more success, I would consider wording the question differently. In order to stroke some of these folks and their flaming egos, make it clear that you are asking The Gods for their opinion...."How, in the vastness of your experience and excellence, do YOU find it best to...?"
__________________
We do not inherit the Earth from our parents; we borrow it from our children
Appreciate 0
      06-17-2012, 04:28 PM   #31
Em/1
Lieutenant
Em/1's Avatar
United_States
83
Rep
562
Posts

Drives: 2011 1M VO
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Chicago

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
2019 VW GTI SE  [0.00]
2020 Tesla M3P  [0.00]
2011 BMW 1M  [0.00]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ender_ View Post
Do I really need to answer some of these, common sense not so common?

You should not learn to drive stick on a 1M:

-The car, while well built, will not take the same abuse as a lower power output car. The transmission is not made to take that kind of abuse (not pushing it hard but shifting wrong abuse)

-You can make a much bigger mess of things in a higher performing car then you can in a small little Honda or something of the like.

-I have serious concerns that this guy has any understanding of how an engine or transmission works. Anyone I've taught to drive a manual gets a lesson on how it works so they understand why it reacts the way it does when you do something wrong.

-Its also a stupid question because you can just go out and try it, mild7 let us know how it goes when you shift without taking your foot off the gas
Or just watch this...



As I said before go take some lessons - that's the best advice anyone here can give - and what I said in my first post.
I come in on the side that these negative responses reflect poorly on the Forum. I taught 3 youngsters (my sons and a nephew) how to drive a stick with my 3rd gen 300+ hp RX7 and there is no doubt that it was a MUCH more challenging beginner's vehicle than the 1M, both in terms of lousy low end torque and a much more fragile drivetrain. All did just fine with no damage to car or egos. Stalling out or even crunching in low power situations just isn't that big of a deal. All you really need to tell our friend is to practice a lot before attempting shifts under high performance situations and to especially avoid high power applications when clutch partially engaged. I say welcome to a very lucky group which is mostly helpful and friendly!
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:07 AM.




1addicts
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST