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      01-24-2019, 01:15 AM   #265
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Looking good. Do you have your own workshop?

I think will go and get a G&T and go back and review this thread from the beginning. Such good posts. I will likely be hitting you up with a tonne of questions about what you have done, apologies in advance.
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      01-24-2019, 03:23 PM   #266
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Looking good. Do you have your own workshop?

I think will go and get a G&T and go back and review this thread from the beginning. Such good posts. I will likely be hitting you up with a tonne of questions about what you have done, apologies in advance.
Just do all the work at home. Garage has been set up with a hoist, and I have a bungalow which I have setup as storage room and workshop (lathe and electronics workbenches)
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      02-15-2019, 04:38 PM   #267
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I bought the same H8 led angel eyes from the ebay link you listed (i think in another thread) which arrived this week from China (and at least they admitted they were in China).

I found them to be pretty disappointing as these are the third set of led h8s ive tried and none seem to illuminate the outer rings much at all.

I was walking down the street a few months ago and saw a black 135i drive past with perfect led angel eyes. Was very jelly. It must have been about mid afternoon so it was impressive to see them in decent light still well illuminated.

Have you modified yours at all?
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      02-18-2019, 02:05 AM   #268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Blimp View Post
I bought the same H8 led angel eyes from the ebay link you listed (i think in another thread) which arrived this week from China (and at least they admitted they were in China).

I found them to be pretty disappointing as these are the third set of led h8s ive tried and none seem to illuminate the outer rings much at all.

I was walking down the street a few months ago and saw a black 135i drive past with perfect led angel eyes. Was very jelly. It must have been about mid afternoon so it was impressive to see them in decent light still well illuminated.

Have you modified yours at all?
Did the LCI e82s get LED rings? If so that's likely what you saw. Personally I haven't seen any pre LCI cars with led bulbs where the illumination is consistent across the rings. I think if you want that sort of result you need to get LED rings installed. That's my opinion anyway. I just put up with it. Its cosmetic.
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      02-18-2019, 04:04 AM   #269
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Originally Posted by Aus335iguy View Post
Did the LCI e82s get LED rings? If so that's likely what you saw. Personally I haven't seen any pre LCI cars with led bulbs where the illumination is consistent across the rings. I think if you want that sort of result you need to get LED rings installed. That's my opinion anyway. I just put up with it. Its cosmetic.
Yeah, I didnt think of the possibility that they had replaced the whole angel eyes with proper LED ones. Looked good though.

No E82/88 came with LED angel eyes to my knowledge.
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      03-24-2019, 04:45 PM   #270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Blimp View Post
I bought the same H8 led angel eyes from the ebay link you listed (i think in another thread) which arrived this week from China (and at least they admitted they were in China).

I found them to be pretty disappointing as these are the third set of led h8s ive tried and none seem to illuminate the outer rings much at all.

I was walking down the street a few months ago and saw a black 135i drive past with perfect led angel eyes. Was very jelly. It must have been about mid afternoon so it was impressive to see them in decent light still well illuminated.

Have you modified yours at all?
I have actually swapped the power supplies out that drives them with a bit higher current but they arent that bright tbh.

Ultimately the light output is limited by the heatsinking of the LED, and its a small enclosed space with poor airflow. Can easily get LED chips that are bright enough but to run them at that current would require much more heat dissipation than the housing allows, unless LED efficiencies improve significantly.
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      03-24-2019, 04:58 PM   #271
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With the current suspension setup I was feeling the roll stiffness has improved from when I had the KW V2 setup, but still tended to roll around in low speed corners, resulting in the rear wheel unloading a bit. Not as bad as before but still there. I also found in high speed corners at Phillip island the car really would benefit from more roll stiffness as the weight transfer feels a bit slow and was getting understeer in the high speed corners.


Decided I wanted to try out different sway bars again. I would like to run the E93 M3 front sway bar but previously having tried this resulted in a lot of understeer in low speed corners, unloading the front inside wheel. I decided that to upgrade run this E93 convertible bar I would need to upgrade the rear bar to match, so the car doesn't feel too unbalanced. Previously had upgraded to a 15mm rear sway bar from an E9X XI (AWD model, also same as E93 Msport rear sway).

The 22.5mm rear sway from an M3 was an option but didn't want to go up that far, ideally looking for something like an 18mm but couldnt find one off the shelf. Ended up settling for the Whiteline 20mm rear bar as it has been used by many people with no issues.

Turns out the Whiteline sway bar is already a tight fit with stock axles (but doesn't touch anything), but with my M3 axles (I've done an M3 diff swap into my 135i) this was a problem and when the car is at ride height, the CV joint boots rub on the sway bar. If you compare the sway bar design to the M3 one, you can see that the M3 one is bent significantly differently to allow better clearance with these parts. Annoying.

I decided to keep the 20mm sway bar as it is the specification I wanted, and figured I could solve it with adjustable end links. Unfortunately it looks like the available solutions for this platform are limited, and expensive. My particular problem means I need to extend the end links at least 20mm from stock, which the aftermarket options don't cater for anyway.

Found a good seller on ebay uk selling decent looking adjustable turnbuckle rod joints, and I figure its worth a shot making my own. Ended up having to machine up a few spacer bushes to get the universal parts to work. The stock endlink is an M10 thread on the sway bar side and M8 thread on the knuckle side.

Installation was not fun, due to the larger M3 axles in the 135i, I could not remove the bolts holding the sway bar end link on. This means going through the trouble of removing the axle, which requires a special tool to press them out, and another tool to pull them back into the hub. I had the tools from when I did the swap in the first place, and since I put antisieze on the splines it all came out nice and easy.

Installed the new sway end links, plenty of clearance to the axle, but ended up adjusting them too long. So the sway bar hit the upper control arm haha. Shortened them up now to allow adequate clearance and project done. I can also install M3 upper control arms which are a curved design which gives a bit more clearance to the sway bar as well.


Here is a link to the turnbuckles if someone has the same unique problem I did with the M3 axles and whiteline sway bar (mcgillmotorsport on ebay):

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/M10-Turn...53.m2749.l2649
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      03-24-2019, 05:14 PM   #272
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Driving impressions after the E93 M3 front, and Whiteline 20mm upgrade:

Quite unexpected but the ride comfort has improved significantly. The Whiteline bar uses polyurethane greased bushes so the bar moves freely in the bushing. This is in contrast to the OEM style bushes which uses a rubber bushing that twists instead.

The roll stiffness has been improved, rear still unloads a bit at low speed corners (possibly needed a slightly stiffer front bar or softer rear bar) but looks like it can be probably dialed out with the damping adjustments. The DTC (single press) still flashes at low speed corners but with DSC off, it seems like there is plenty of low speed grip and is just a sign the DTC is intervening a bit too preemptively.

Taking medium speed corners the car doesn't roll as much and feels a bit more composed. Will need to drive it more to make a better judgement but seems like a step in the right direction
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      04-04-2019, 09:51 PM   #273
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Last year, I installed a used set of front Alcon brakes, but with the track day and high speed logging runs, the pads were finished quite quickly and the discs were very worn.

Being a 2 piece disc I can simply replace the disc rings, although they cost around $800 each locally. I figured out the specification of my existing discs:

355mm diameter
32mm thickness
215.9 mounting PCD
12 holes, 6mm diameter

These Alcon discs were actually a standard AP racing disc size, so many alternative replacements exist. I found that DBA make a number of discs in this size, and was suprised to find the discs for sale on ebay for only $150 shipped for the pair! I then used a 10% ebay coupon code to get the price down even more. Part number was the DBA 2750 and I elected to go for the blank rotors with no grooves. This is primarily a street driven car and I feel that the grooves tend to be noisier and prefer the smoother operation of a blank disc for street use. Otherwise DBA make a few different patterns if you want grooves. Another alternative is to go on Aliexpress, and pick up a set of Alcon or AP racing replica discs, which have the identical style grooves in the rings.

DBA 2750 on ebay (disregard the picture, it is a generic one):
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252937742860

Example of Alcon fake disc:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Jeki...AbTest=ae803_4

The pads that came with the calipers are Project Mu club racer pads, which I am very happy with the feel. The only downside I can see is that they are quite abrasive on the discs and are quite expensive.

The alternative is the Ferodo DS2500 which is also available for this caliper (and I am still running DS2500 rears). I have used the DS2500 for a few years and the performance is great, but the Project Mus give a lot better progressive pedal feel. I decided to stick with the Project Mu pads, which I purchased from their Australian website. Was over a month wait for the pads, so I only had around 1mm of pad left by the time they arrived!

I disassembled the bells off the old discs, and thankfully everything fit correctly and was compatible. I cleaned every single clip and fastener which took hours, if you are able to source the hardware brand new, would highly recommended doing that to save a lot of time. Overall a very time consuming process cleaning and assembling the disc hardware.

The car that these brakes came off had wheels that were overtightened, which resulted in uneven wear on the discs and would cause vibration after a hard stop. Will hopefully not experience that anymore, first drives I am bedding in the brakes slowly, so have not done any big stops yet. So far, feels great with no vibrations
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      04-05-2019, 07:30 PM   #274
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Nice work on finding the discs Vince. Goes to show the sort of margin AP charge. Fairly certain DBAs are cast here in oz or at least they were last I heard.
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      04-07-2019, 01:35 AM   #275
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Wow nice work Vince, do the Apex EC7s hide the BBK?

Let's see some pictures of the car with the new wheels on!
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      04-07-2019, 08:30 PM   #276
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Wow nice work Vince, do the Apex EC7s hide the BBK?

Let's see some pictures of the car with the new wheels on!
Heres one from the great alpine road trip last year. Definitely can see the brakes clearly
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      04-28-2019, 10:47 PM   #277
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Did some small fixes to the car on last weekend:

BMW uses harness cable clips which are merely taped onto the hoses/cables. Several years later the engine bay heat means the tape falls apart and you get lose cables in the engine bay. The washer hose and cables had popped off the bonnet cable clip and started rubbing, which wore through the tape insulation and exposed the wires. Just taped it up with electrical tape, taped it back onto the cable clip and used a few zipties to help it stay on.

I was also getting a small pool of washer fluid on the ground, so removed the wheel liner and found the feed hose to the washer bottle would leak when I wiggled the hose. Had an o-ring kit from ALDI which was slightly thicker so sealed very well. Messy job, real pain in the ass trying to figure out where its leaking.
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      05-22-2019, 09:09 PM   #278
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I've found the stiffer rear sway bar was probably a bit too stiff for the current setup of the car, unfortunately not any options for aftermarket rear sways between the 15-20mm range.

On sharp corners the car doesnt have enough roll stiffness to handle fast transitions and the rear inside wheel tends to unload. Additionally in low-mid speed large radius corners the rear wheel inside wheel also unloads, resulting in the car wanting to rotate. Quite fun but really not putting the power down effectively.

I decided to increase the front spring rate to compensate, while additonally going to a shorter spring, to clear the tyre incase I want to run wider front rubber. I decided to go with 180mm length (20mm shorter) and 60N/mm (prevously 50N/mm). Purchased from demontweeks which was quite reasonable and did not take too long to arrive.

The install was pretty painless with the GAS monoballs installed, no need to loosen any control arm bolts, just dropped the strut and disconnected the hoses/cables from the clips to allow the strut to be lowered.

I am now at the limit for how high I can adjust the spring perch, the shock has run out of thread adjustment. The perch still doesn't clear the tyre completely but the clearance should be adequate for running 235 AD08R tyres. I am running zero preload on the spring, the perch is adjusted just enough so the spring has no rattle.

The increase in front spring rate has only decreased the ride comfort slightly. Rear end grip has improved and does not lift the rear end when powering out of large radius corners. Low speed corners grip has improved, although the overzealous DSC does still intervene when theres a lot of weight transfer. Overall another step in the right direction, and I am happy with the upgrade.

I need to see how this new setup fares with rough roads, as I am still unsure as to whether there is enough spring travel available (so the spring doesnt bottom out before the bump stop engages)
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      05-23-2019, 03:28 AM   #279
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Interesting how the front spring rate affected the handling Vince.
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      06-16-2019, 10:26 PM   #280
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Have picked up a set of M3 rear arms pretty cheap, so I decided to do a project with them.

Currently this is my rear suspension arm setup:

Toe arm - Hardrace toe arms, ball jointed both ends
Guide rod - TRW M3 arms ball jointed on inboard end, rubber bush on outboard end
Upper camber arm - Stock arm with ball jointed inboard end, with rubber bush on outboard end
Lower camber arm - Stock arm with ball jointed outboard end, with rubber bush on inboard end
Trailing arm - Stock arm with rubber bush on both ends.

I plan on ball jointing the guide rod, upper camber arm and trailing arm bushes, and possibly the inboard camber arm bushing.

You can use the ball join from the stock upper camber arm ball joint from the non M cars. This ball joint can be pressed out of the stock arms or can be bought separately from aftermarket/oem manufacturers. Upgrading to ball joints should in theory reduce compliance steer effects from the rear end (basically preventing rear steer during hard driving) and improve handling.

From my research, these ball joints should be the right size for the trailing arms bushes, upper camber arm bushes and guide rod bushes. They should be an outside diameter of 45.00mm. Since I have m3 arms, the ball joints I need to replace are the outboard ones, which go into the knuckle. The knuckle has a tapered face for the attachment points, which help locate the arms into place. The ball joints will not have this feature so tapered adapters need to be made up.

On the weekend, I cleaned up all the arms and pressed the bushes out of them. Rather than try to find the correct M12 tapered washer for sale (its hard to find specialty fasteners like this in Australia), I decided to use my lathe to salvage the parts from the original bushes. For anyone who wants to simply purchase the parts, they are M12 washers with a 120 degree taper on them. I pressed out the metal slug from the rubber bushes, around 3 tons of force and the rubber shears and the metal slug pops out. I machined off the remaining rubber, then parted off the tapered faces from them. These will now need to be machined to final thickness, which I will wait until I order the ball joints before doing that.
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      06-18-2019, 06:01 PM   #281
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For some reason images didn't load, have fixed up the previous post

Just machined all the washers to the same thickness and wirewheeled off the galvanized coating. Will spray these down with a zinc gal spray finish to prevent corrosion once theyre all done.

What I am aiming for is to measure the distance between the tapered face of the standard bushing, and compare to the ball joint + washer distance. I will then machine the washers to match the standard bushing. This will prevent any rear suspension geometry changes due to using non standard adapted parts
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      07-22-2019, 06:17 PM   #282
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Have not had too much luck with the custom end links, they started knocking after a few K kms

Rather than fuck around with more aftermarket parts, i decided to just cut and extend the OEM end links as they are reliable and cheap. I've already adjusted the end links to an optimal length, so getting the sizing correct was easy at least.

I cut the OEM endlinks up, the end link diameter is 9mm which is a bit of an oddball size. I machined up some mild steel and drilled out the holes to 9mm, was a tight fit and I ended up using the hydraulic press to get the endlinks into the holes. I drilled out some side holes to allow me to plug weld the end links onto the extension bar. I finished off the project by spraying the extension parts with some zinc paint, to prevent corrosion.

Pleased to say these links are silent with no knocking sounds anymore.
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      07-22-2019, 08:17 PM   #283
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Picked up a set of rear M3 camber arms, which I will convert my rear suspension to use these parts. This upgrade was triggered by the fact that the rear shocks are now too short since moving to a standard upper mount. The upper mounts I used reduce the shock droop and result in the rear end unloading a lot on weight transitions.

The KW competition shock lower mounts are actually bolted on instead of being welded on. I will remove the lower mounts and convert them to a classic shock eye. At the same time I will make the custom part long enough to increase the droop travel to a good amount for rear grip.

This lower mount upgrade is a good idea since the lower non-M pin style mounts are very prone to binding up on removal/install and the threads are already damaged on mine. I figured it'd be better to fabricate a custom part on a superior mounting system than to just replicate the standard mounts

Moving to a ball jointed shock eye should also reduce rubber bind in the rear end too, the pin style mount has to bend as the suspension compresses. I am not sure what practical difference it will be, but will be interesting to find out
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      07-24-2019, 11:46 PM   #284
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I have received the Lemforder ball joints (did a mini group buy). Pressed them in and didn't want to go in straight, but eventually got it going. Once it straighted out it pressed in quite smoothly (around 5 tons). This was supriusing as I thought a 0.20mm interference would be quite hard to press in, but it is quite easy since the bore itself will dilate and open itself up when the ball joint is pressed in.

I was unable to press it in all the way with my current set of tools so I purchased a nice cup set off ebay. Got the ball joint pressed flush and nice

Will press in the ball joints on my set of arms and install them when I move to the M3 lower camber arm with custom lower shock mount.
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      08-13-2019, 06:58 PM   #285
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Some more engineering for the rear monoballs

Due to the necessity of using a washer, this may cause some undesirable effects with the geometry of the rear suspension, as using too thick of a washer can change the position of the arms.

I got a hold of some stock M3 arms (as I had foolishly pressed them out of my arms already)

I measured that the tapered face of the rubber joint is 1.5mm more outwards from the centre of the arm than the flat face of the monoball joints. This means if I had simply put a washer on the monoballs, the position of the arm would change. Since we are adding 2 washers, any increase in thickness over the rubber joints would result in the arms moving more inwards towards each other on the knuckle.

The rear suspension on these cars is multi link, and the upper two arms form a virtual pivot that extends beyond the knuckle. This allows you to move the pivot of the suspension to a location where the ball joints simply cant fit, because a knuckle or brake disc is in the way. Moving the upper two arms more inwards will result in the upper pivot point more inboard, and result in more negative camber. This is undesirable for me, since the camber adjustment is usually at its limits trying to achieve a 1 30' (1.5 degrees) camber.

Therefore the ball joints must not be pressed to depth flush like my previous post , they must be pressed offset slightly (and the opposite direction for L and R). This will allow some space for a washer to fit, while still retaining the centreline of the arm with respect to the knuckle (when compared to the stock rubber bush)

I decided on making the washer 4.5mm thick, and this requires the monoball to be pressed in offset 3mm. This is easy since the chamfer on the monoball is 3mm deep, so visually it is easy to tell that the ball joint in pressed in correctly.

Below is the washer design and a diagram of the upper two arm geometry. It is easy to see that by adding a thicker washer on the mounting face on the knuckle, it would result in the arms being spaced closer together, and therefore move the virtual pivot more inwards.
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      08-14-2019, 08:14 PM   #286
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Some work on the rear shock mount conversion


As per my previous post I am converting the rear shock mounts to M3 style, and also lengthening the shock at the same time.

I purchased some 1020 mild steel and made the lower shock eye. Its not easy work on the mini lathe, but managed to get it done. I bored out the hole to accept a lemforder ball joint and am reasonably happy with the achieved sizing.

I do not have a mill so I will get a coworker who has a mill to do the milling of the flat on it.

I have not measured the KW competition shock yet, nor disassembled the lower shock mount. I have prevously tried to uncrew the lower mount but had no luck, since there was no easy way to hold onto the shock firmly to uncrew the bottom mount. What I will most likely have to do is to weld on a nut on the mount and rattle it off with the biggest impact gun I have. I can forsee it being a real pain.

I will specify the custom lower shock mount length once I have everything disassembled and compared to the rear M3 shocks. The M3 shocks should give me a good reference on what a 'correct' shock length and shock travel should be. As you can see from the CAD diagram, still a lot more parts to make
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