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06-04-2020, 08:01 AM | #1 |
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128 rookie looking for recommendations
Howdy,
I recently purchased a 2012 128i with 26K miles from a single owner. Its a auto, but it was good deal on a clean car. I have been enjoying the car and feel it is time to start looking into upgrades. I purchased an extended warranty for the car 3yr/30k, which has turned out to be a good purchase because I have had to replaced some gaskets, motor mounts and alternator. That being said I am going to hold off on engine upgrades from the time being because I could not get a straight forward answer from the warranty company if it would be void if I added a DISA. So I am looking for recommendations for suspension parts (not track/daily driver) and wheel/tire. I found these on the ECS website, but I just don't know if this is a good deal. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...age-2/n52spp2/ https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...36116786888kt/ Also this is my first post on any sort of forum so I apologize in advance for bad form. Thanks for the help and Cheers! |
06-04-2020, 08:59 AM | #2 | |
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26k miles - good find and welcome! First and foremost is make sure all the maintenance items are good. The N52 engine and the auto transmission are quite reliable if maintained and pretty cheap to maintain if you can do you own work. (if you've had BMW's before and I'm telling you how to suck eggs, my apologies) There is a pretty big selection of suspension upgrades you can make to the car. First things you need to decide are (a) how much of a ride height drop you want, (b) how important is comfort and (c) your desired $ spend. I've had my car for just over 4 years and have done 2 complete suspension changeouts and some other related improvements. I've got it where I like it finally. I've not done any engine upgrades but the 3 stage intake + a tune is a good one that I'll get to some day. Most people pick up a used manifold and often buy new DISA valves for reliability. I'd bet you'd void some wtty work if you did the 3 stage intake, but, that is just a guess. Also, this forum and the E90 forum are great sources of information.
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06-04-2020, 10:46 AM | #3 | |
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My first reaction to that wheel set was that it was very cheap, but then I started plugging in part numbers, and you can actually get better deals elsewhere. Tischer BMW (www.GetBMWParts.com) was about $120 cheaper for the four wheels (36-11-6-786-888) and 4 center caps (36-13-6-783-536). It's crazy, because the one and only time I bought BMW-branded accessory wheels (about 10 years ago) they were over $300 per wheel, and they were the same sizes - but they were Style 216 wheels, and were made by BBS. I find that ECS is usually not the cheapest option when it comes to Genuine BMW parts, and usually price check against Tischer and FCP Euro - Tischer usually wins, although you need to factor in any shipping and tax to be sure, especially on something like wheels. Probably ECS's two biggest strengths are studio-quality pictures of nearly every part they sell from numerous angles, and massive selection. There are more parts available for our cars in one place than probably anywhere else, and I find the pictures helpful sometimes when I'm trying to visualize how a project is going to come together. Many times FCP Euro is a little cheaper, but not always, and their selection is not nearly as broad. I do end up shopping at ECS quite a bit because often I can consolidate all my shopping into one basket, rather than pick up some parts a little cheaper here and there, and only pay shipping charges once.
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06-04-2020, 12:14 PM | #4 |
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Well the first and most simple is a set of really good non runflat tires. Many here swear by Michelin PSS (as I do) and now their newer replacement Michelin P4S (I think).
I've had my 80% worn PSS on the race track in wet conditions and they still stuck like glue. |
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06-04-2020, 03:20 PM | #5 | |
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(b.) I use it as a daily driver and for some travel over 3.5hr so comfort is important (c.) ideally if I could keep it under $1500 that would be great |
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06-04-2020, 03:24 PM | #6 | |
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06-04-2020, 04:28 PM | #7 | |
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Assuming you have a non-sport suspension, the least expensive upgrade without much drop is to get some sport springs and new dampers. You can often find a set of used sport springs for cheap. People that go to aftermarket lowering springs will sell them off for little money. For shocks/ struts that pair with sport springs either Bilstein B4 (slight handling improvement over stock) Bilstein B6 (nice handling but harsher ride) or Koni Sports or Koni Strt. Bilstein B4 and Konis also work with non-sport springs. If you don't mind about a 1.0' - 1.5" drop there are packages with springs and matched dampers that are priced competitively. Bilstein B12 kit is one. Koni's sometimes are paired with aftermarket springs also at a good price. Even though you are low miles, it still makes sense to change the strut/shock mounting parts when replacing dampers. Especially the front as it is a bigger job to get the struts out and disassembled. As NorthernDance mentioned, getting off of the run-flats is good. If you change out to non run-flats you will get a nicer ride but with the standard suspension it may feel to soft. The suspension is somewhat tuned to the hard ride of run flats. I should have asked if you are going to do the work yourself or have a shop do it. For $1,500 and diy you can do a lot. If you're paying a shop, the $1,500 will probably get you the springs, dampers and hardware bought and installed. You might want to look into M3 front control arms and doing something about the rear subframe bushings later on. Frankly I'd do the springs and dampers first and if doing it yourself do the M3 front control arms at the same time.
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06-04-2020, 04:51 PM | #8 | |
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I have factory Good year Eagle LS on it. Not in love with the tires, but the dealership replaced them when I purchased the car. But I want to purchase some wheels and will look for those to replace. What are the thoughts on running a spare? |
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06-04-2020, 05:06 PM | #9 | |
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06-04-2020, 05:20 PM | #10 |
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1. tires
2. dampers 3. sway bars (you likely have none in the rear) 4. if you buy wheels, buy 5; use 5th as a spare and a replacement if 1 of the 4 get damaged beyond repair. former: 9110122826 |
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06-04-2020, 05:45 PM | #11 | |
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I went with a small upgrade over the stock E82 rear bar and then put a 135i bar on the front. Not much cost except the rear install will be high labor cost if you aren't doing it yourself. You'll miss the 911 but (and take this with a pinch of salt) two friends who have 997's drove my car and were fairly impressed. One was into tracking his car pretty seriously. I'm not trying to even hint that the limits on the E82 are near the 911's.
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06-04-2020, 09:07 PM | #12 |
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My first reaction was "damn, that's a lot of stuff to have to deal with at 26k." Regardless, have fun! They're great cars.
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06-05-2020, 06:53 AM | #13 |
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I had a whining noise coming while driving, oil leak in the engine compartment and I never saw the motor mounts, but it was all replaced under warranty so no big issue. Cost me $175 in deductible so I felt like it was worth it.
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06-30-2020, 03:32 AM | #15 |
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Time to replace my shocks and struts on my 128. Do I need to replace the springs too? What about associated hardware, mounts etc?
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06-30-2020, 07:26 AM | #16 | |
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Either way, you can "refresh" the suspension with all new rubber bits (spring pads, strut mounts etc). Your mileage is relatively low so some parts are probably just fine, but your call. Take a look at the kits that a few places sell which include everything for a refresh. ECS Tuning has one for example. Lots of threads in the suspension section that talk about this endlessly...take a look.. |
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07-01-2020, 08:48 PM | #17 |
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Your mileage is low so there should not be much to do. My used bmw stuff to do is:
Fluids - every drop replace! Brakes - inspect/replace Suspension - inspect/replace PCV - inspect/replace New spark plugs New ignition coils New vanos solenoids New MAF I buy my cars with at least 100,000km on the clock. This way major components have been put to the test. So the list above reflects that. I say just do all the fluids at at your mileage. The above list gets any bmw driving like the day it left the factory. |
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07-02-2020, 01:13 PM | #18 | |
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07-02-2020, 01:18 PM | #19 | ||
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Check this article out https://bimmerprofs.com/air-mass-meter-clean-not/ I have had maf problems with all my german cars at the higher mileage. I tried cleaning but eventually the failed maf fault comes up. Replacing restored a lot of my cars performance. Btw I noticed on my 128i that as the maf was slowly failing the engine was running in lean condition. My vanos solenoids were also failing at a similar rate to the maf so the difference was not much for the computer to notice a fault. Performance took a massive hit. My engine temps were higher, engine sounded like it couldnt breathe. Oil consumption was high. I will say use INPA to prove whats failing and replace. Running lean is no fun. |
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07-02-2020, 06:57 PM | #20 |
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I'd put some Bilstein OEM replacement shocks in it and call it good with the suspension if it's your daily. Maybe do a set of Eibach sway bars to tighten it up a little. Strut tower brace does improve steering response, but there's a slight sacrifice in comfort.
I have pretty high tolerance for a lack of refinement (a lack of age on my part), so I daily on race camber plates, coilovers, and high spring rates which makes it 10x more rewarding for the odd track day here and there. Drive the pants off that 1'er and enjoy! Lots of miles keep cars happy, especially German ones
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07-04-2020, 10:19 AM | #21 |
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Check out my build thread too - I've taken a more "dailyable" approach.
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1320030
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07-09-2020, 08:37 AM | #22 |
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Does anyone have opinion on these.
https://www.bilstein.com/us/en/produ...75816952754008 It would be nice to have the ability to change from comfort to sport. |
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