BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      09-17-2017, 08:59 PM   #45
ignote
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I did this today on ramps. I feel like it was harder to change out the water pump and thermostat than changing the HPFP or the oil filter housing gaskets. It was a real pain and access is tight.
If the labor cost wasn't so high, I would pay someone to do this.
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      02-24-2018, 03:42 PM   #46
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Well done video. I do these as a business and know how difficult they can be to film and edit.

I will be doing this some time this summer. I note a huge price difference on pumps on E-bay and Amazon. Is there really a big difference in pumps and T-Stats? Has anyone had a replacement fail?
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      02-24-2018, 04:34 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ignote View Post
I did this today on ramps. I feel like it was harder to change out the water pump and thermostat than changing the HPFP or the oil filter housing gaskets. It was a real pain and access is tight.
If the labor cost wasn't so high, I would pay someone to do this.
My buddy who works at BMW says they remove the FMIC(intercooler) when changing the water pump. IDK... for this job I just let my dealer do this job. The two year parts warranty was worth it to me - especially traveling all over Europe... that might come in handy one day.

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      08-30-2018, 07:53 AM   #48
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Did mine yesterday. Five hours and fifty seven minutes later I was done. This was a tough job due to space constraints. Plus, 78K miles worth of heat cycles had the OEM rubber practically welded to the pump/thermostat. Total cost to DIY was under $600, dealer wanted MORE than $1200.
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      09-05-2018, 05:14 PM   #49
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I'm planning to replace the water pump and thermostat. What water pump brand would you use? Genuine BMW? VDO?
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      12-17-2018, 11:49 PM   #50
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There is NO NEED TO REMOVE SO MANY THINGS. If you guys would like it an easier way...




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      06-01-2019, 08:04 AM   #51
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Wow only BMW could design such a crazy/stupid mess. Why do we buy these cars? Personally I'm done!
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      06-02-2019, 11:02 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeneseeS4 View Post
Wow only BMW could design such a crazy/stupid mess. Why do we buy these cars? Personally I'm done!
Probably a good idea!
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      07-14-2019, 07:50 PM   #53
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Just finished swapping out my thermostat and water pump. My pump died during my commute home this past week; the car had a little more than 72500 miles. I got two codes: 2E81 "Coolant pump speed deviation" and 2E82 "Coolant pump cutoff." It made the drive home (which involves a large hill) pretty interesting.

I used a VDO pump; the only visible difference between the OEM and the VDO pump is that the official BMW pump appears to have rubber vibration dampers for the three mounting screws.

The job was straightforward once I'd watched the excellent BavAuto videos, but did take a long time. I used Rhino Ramps and there's just not a whole lot of room to move around under the car with those. I'd like to use jackstands, but I don't know how well jackstands would work with the small plastic BMW jacking points -- wouldn't the plastic parts get crushed?

Several people wondered about the combination of snap-connect and traditional hose connections for the thermostat. My theory on that is that because there are two snap-connect and two "normal" worm-clamp hose connections, there's only one way to attach the thermostat. You can't attach the hose connections to the wrong place. So the variety of connectors and hose-sizes may be an attempt to prevent incorrect installation of the thermostat.

I don't have much to add here, but I wanted to get in and tell people how many miles my pump lasted, what my codes were, and to express appreciation for BavAuto's excellent videos.

Last edited by mcv135; 07-14-2019 at 07:52 PM.. Reason: mis-spelling; changed mileage of the failure to be more accurate.
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      02-16-2021, 11:31 AM   #54
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I'll be doing this with my turbos. Housing cracked. I'll have to do a flush cause someone replaced the bmw blue coolant with Green crap. I'm sure they didn't have the mixture right which is why it cracked. Got cold out when it cracked.
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      02-16-2021, 02:03 PM   #55
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Just be patient and you'll be fine.

A good way to swap out coolant (especially potentially bad coolant, "wrong" coolant) is to run distilled water in the cooling system for some period of time, then remove that and put the final mixture in. Much less of the prior coolant will remain. You're working in February though, so it might not be an option to use water without antifreeze. I did my switchover during warmer weather.

Good luck! Tell us how it works out, etc.
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      07-03-2021, 10:21 AM   #56
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Having trouble disconnecting the quick release hose form the thermostat. And tricks?
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      07-03-2021, 05:28 PM   #57
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Honestly if the quick-release is all crapped up with salt or sand or road-grime, I'd just try rinsing it off with water. Warm soapy water, perhaps? Then try to work it off slowly.

Make sure you're pulling the clip away from the hose connector correctly, as shown in this small YT video:



Rinsing something on the underside of the engine compartment won't be easy. I'd use a spray bottle of some sort to get the water right in there where it needs to be.

Good luck, & stay calm. I broke a radiator hose connector when I got a bit over-strenuous trying to un-stick it -- I couldn't use my car for a few days as I waited for a replacement part to come in!
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      04-23-2022, 02:59 PM   #58
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Bumping this in case people haven't see it, get it fresh in their mind that if they need to replace their water pump to refer to these videos. They take you through it step by step and show you the tools needed.

It's a bit of a puzzle, being sure to get things done in the right order. I undid my work a few times to be able to allow things to move around so I could complete a step. It's not a ton of fun but it's do-able.

I took the anti-roll bar totally off, it wans't a big deal. 16 ft-lbs to put the brackets back on and 43 ft-lbs for the endlinks.

My order for putting things back together:

* T-stat goes up first
* Connect small hose on the t-stat that requires the ring clamp (slide the hose on, then rotate it so you're happy with the approximate position of the t-stat itself hanging from it, then tighten)
* Small hose on t-stat that requires the quick clip
* T-stat electrical connector
* Water pump up next
* Hose connecting to top of water pump, coming in to it from the side
* Lower 2 bolts for water pump
* Water pump electrical connector
* Hose connecting t-stat to water pump (it's easily added now, and delaying this allows much more room for the stuff above)
* 3rd / upper bolt for water pump (tons of fun)
* Bolts for t-stat to water pump
* Final hose to t-stat from front of engine, with quick clamp (don't forget this one! Do it last so you can have access to that 3rd water pump bolt).

All told:
* 6 hose connections, 2 with quick clips and 4 with typical ring / hose clamps
* 2 electrical connectors

Make sure to keep a mental tally of the # done and don't forget any.

Doing this sequence should keep you able to see the job the best and not have to undo anything.

Last edited by tracer bullet; 04-24-2022 at 06:04 PM..
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