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      07-08-2020, 09:27 PM   #1
niceast
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Niceast 2011 bmw 135i n55

2011 bmw 135i
black, dct, idrive navigation system

I was searching for one-series for about a year. I was going to buy a 2009 black 135i manual with 70k miles for 13k but third party dealer sold it to a bmw-tech the day after I test drove.

Bought this car years ago from a motorsport dealership, I haven't have to do any work on it besides battery, oil changes, and tires in the past three years. The car was awesome I was coming for a 2012 honda accord lx-s and this was different with rwd, +100hp from my previous car, and a fast dct. Car came with Afe intake filter, eibach springs, and 38% tint.

08/2017: Bought the car for $21,063.28 with 38.4k miles
12/2017: hit road kill smash intercooler up and damaged lower front bumper + supporting plastics.
12/2017: replace intercooler with Neiman's stock intercooler before the blue 135i
12/2017: new battery
12/2017: oil change, oil filter
06/2018: oil change, oil filter
01/2020: inspection
02/2020: Oil filter housing gasket
02/2020: two rear tires
06/2020: oil change, oil filter
07/2020: cabin filter
08/2020: HPFP
08/2020: spark plugs and coil pack
08:2020: two front tires
06.2021: water pump, thermostat, uhose
08.2021: belt kit, oil change
05.2022: power steering bolt loose, 2 bolt head snap and last one loose


intro photos



maintenance list
-1- Brakes rotors/pads/sensor
-2- All fluids: engine, brakes, coolant, power steering, differential, transmission
-3- Oil Filter Housing Gasket (OFHG)
-4- High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP)
-5- Valve Cover assembly
-6- belt tensioner/pulleys
-7- Water Pump thermostat and u hose
-8- oil pan gasket, bolts, sensor o-ring
-9- transmission filters
-10- air filters
-11- spark plugs and coils
-12- vanos solenoid cleaning
-13- battery
-14- Check power steering pump bolts [@85k miles 2 bolts snap, 3rd one was loose]
-15-
-16-
-17-
-18-

Tool list
-1- Socket set + extension kit
-2- impact gun and impact sockets
-3- e-socket and torx socket
-4- stubby ratcheting wrench (needed for OFHG)
-5- oil filter socket wrench 86mm (needed for oil changes)
-6- jack pads (weird plastic design but it supports a 3,300 lb car)
-7- thin wall spark plug socket
-8- long reach low profile jack
-9- ramps
-10- k-DCAN cable and OTG cable
-11- hook/picks
-12- paint buffer
-13- feeler gauge
-14- BMS gapper tool and BMS wheel socket
-15- fluid transfer pump
-16- bolt extractor
-17- E-torx socket set (use torque wrench to re-install)
-18- torx socket set
-19- inspection camera
-20-
-21-

If i win the lottery list
-0- 17"x7" Kosei k5r square all around (discontinued in 2017, lighter than O.Z. ALLEGGERITA HLT sub 16 per wheel)
-0- high profile tires [cause street road have too many irregularities]
-1- big turbo kit
-2- PI intake manifold
-3- Fuel system upgrade
-4- bearing upgrade
-5- tuning
-6- high pressure fuel line upgrade
-7- LSD upgrade
-8- intercooler upgrade
-9- charge pipe aluminum
-10- custom single 3" downpipes and midpipe
-11- magnetic oil drain plug
-12- solid bushing
-13- sway bar
-14- DCT clutch pack upgrade
-15- solid-deck conversation
-16-

Whats in the trunk?
-1- impact gun and impact socket set
-2- scissor jack
-3- battery, tire inflator, jumper
-4- flashlight, gloves,
-5- tool kit: screwdrivers, racketing socket set, hex, allens
-6- roadside triangle,
-7- blanket, towels,
-8- spare change,
-9- straps, rope,
-10- rain gear
-11-
-12-
-13-
-14-
-15-

Tips
-0- rotate the key every oil change to charge the internal battery, the keys 1 and 2 storage different profiles for seat location, air settings, radio settings
-1- Push and hold the center console light until the light turns off to disable welcoming lights
-2- Pressing the throttle all the way down for 10 seconds with ignition turned "on" and highest temp + low fan speed runs the water pump, bleeding the coolant system for air bubbles using the water pump + electrical/battery power
-3- DCT does not allow you to "d" or "r" with the door open and neutral is only available after you start the car
-4- launch control sequence: hold brake pedal> DSC once> sport button> shifter into manual mode> left paddle downshift "M1"> gas pedal> checkered flag dash> release brake pedal
-5- If your removing any e-torx bolts, reinstall using a torque wrench an according to torque specifications they will yield if over tighten
-6-
-7-

Last edited by niceast; 02-17-2023 at 04:04 PM..
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      07-25-2020, 04:58 PM   #2
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      07-25-2020, 05:18 PM   #3
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      07-27-2020, 05:33 PM   #4
niceast
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ordered:
[1] engine oil
[2] oil filter
[3] coolant
[4] brake fluid
[5] power steering fluid
[6] transmission fluid
[7] differential fluid
[8] high pressure fuel pump
[9] valve cover assembly
[10] serpentine belt kit
[11] water pump
[12] thermostat
[13] oil pan gasket
[14] oil pan bolts
[15] tranmission filters
[16] spark plugs
[17] coil packs

Is there anything else I should do during this major service?
I am still researching for
-1- solid bushing,
-2- sway bar,
-3- engine mounts,
-4- u-hose [should I get u-hose when doing water pump and thermostat?],
-5- tires,
-6- trunk all weather mat,
-7- vanos solenoid,
-8- roof rack system,
-9- crankshaft bearing (might go well when changing the oil pan gasket),

already did ofhg and rear tires early this year.

Last edited by niceast; 07-28-2020 at 03:21 AM..
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      07-27-2020, 07:37 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niceast View Post
u-hose [should I get u-hose when doing water pump and thermostat?
Absolutely, it's cheap insurance in case the old one is brittle.

As for things like swaybar and solid bushings, what is your end goal? Are going to get coilovers? Stiffer springs? If yes go for the solids and don't bother with any oversized sway bar. If no , then avoid the solids and go with whatever sway bar you want. Maintenance list looks extremely in depth, I applaud you for doing that first instead of trying to throw go fast parts at it first.
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      07-28-2020, 02:39 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BronkaidBrah View Post
Absolutely, it's cheap insurance in case the old one is brittle.

As for things like swaybar and solid bushings, what is your end goal? Are going to get coilovers? Stiffer springs? If yes go for the solids and don't bother with any oversized sway bar. If no , then avoid the solids and go with whatever sway bar you want. Maintenance list looks extremely in depth, I applaud you for doing that first instead of trying to throw go fast parts at it first.
My goal is a corolla.
bought the car with eibach springs.
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      07-28-2020, 12:03 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niceast View Post

Tips

-2- Pressing the throttle all the way down for 10 seconds with ignition turned "on" does not reset throttle adaption but runs the water pump and bleeds the coolant system for air bubbles [i was trolled and killed the battery]
The bleed only starts if you also have the temp set to the hottest and the fan set to minimum, plus pressing the throttle.
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      08-24-2020, 12:21 AM   #8
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So finally decide to finally replace the hpfp.

After attempting to contact bmw north america and local dealerships to notify them that 2011 bmw e82 135i's hpfp are the same part/version from early generation 2006-2010 bmw n54's e90 e91 e92 e93 335i and 535i, which bmw extended the original hpfp factory warranty to 100k miles/10 years. signs are "long crank", codes: 29DC, 29F1, 29F2, and reduced engine performance. I was given no credit and no awards even though I finished their homework and gave them the answers.
if you want to read the sib130309 for yourself check out dackelone's post or the attached document https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...40&postcount=9)

The car has been extremely unhappy under sprinted acceleration (from a stop and highway speed) but operates normal at slow accelerations.



I been getting hpfp pressure too low for few months right since April, 4 months and a hand full of long cranks in 2019-2020 winter. I previously had symptoms of long crank during winter of 2017 but it was resolve with a new battery. Since I have been able to get by, by stopping and restarting the car to clear limp mode. But two week ago during a stop-to-medium acceleration the engine shuttered like maracas with medium vibrations, very audible like chuga-chuga-chuga. immediately pulled over and 30-sec-shutdown and restart hasn't happen since [hope it not something worse, it shouldn't be the car is stock and no performance mods and oil changes regularly].

So the teardown beings, I have reach view of the hpfp by removing the throttle body and charge pipe. three hex #5 bolts, two pressurized fuel lines, and a few electrical connections left.


Aiya! I had success removing the charge pipe three time before by removing the metal retainer ring before removing from the throttle body. but I left it on this time and the end of the charge pipe broke, F. also went to remove the map sensor connection and broke the retention clip, F x2. hopes are to find the missing piece in the under tray and plastic weld them back on.


What i learn from this HPFP service is that, If you want to utilize the most effectiveness of time. I would service the OFHG + serpentine belt/pulleys system + HPFP all at once since its all the drive side of the engine bay and removing/partial-removal the intake is required for the ofhg and very helpful for the rear hpfp hex bolt, plus with the oil filter housing out there is more room to service the belt system. Easier to clean surfaces from the leak also.

that's all for now i'll have to update when i get to working on the other parts of the maintenance list.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf SI B13 03 09_N54 HDP Pump.pdf (66.0 KB, 182 views)

Last edited by niceast; 05-26-2022 at 12:50 AM..
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      08-25-2020, 01:41 PM   #9
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Might be worthwhile to replace your plastic chargepipe with a metal one.
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      02-17-2023, 04:34 PM   #10
niceast
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updates:

08/2017: Bought the car for $21,063.28 with 38.4k miles
12/2017: hit road kill smash intercooler up and damaged lower front bumper + supporting plastics.
12/2017: replace intercooler with Neiman's stock intercooler before the blue 135i
12/2017: new battery
12/2017: oil change, oil filter
06/2018: oil change, oil filter
01/2020: inspection
02/2020: Oil filter housing gasket
02/2020: two rear tires
06/2020: oil change, oil filter
07/2020: cabin filter
08/2020: HPFP
08/2020: spark plugs and coil pack
08:2020: two front tires
06.2021: water pump, thermostat, uhose
08.2021: belt kit, oil change
05.2022: power steering bolt loose, 2 bolt head snap and last one loose
10/2023: oil change interval changed to 3,000 cycle
12:2023: 100k miles driven
01/2023: 30mm lift spacer, oem suspension, 27.6" studded winter tires, new tie rods, jbweld the leaking windshield wiper pump
02/2023: life time alignment firestone


The tie rod passenger side got stuck trying to remove. the driver side once unbolt came off with ease. I believe it was due to over tighten when at getting the car aligned several years ago. tried used a 5 ton presser. ultimately 2-3 minutes under the torch and few whacks was able to remove the passenger side. but things got delayed by have to order the part with the car being on jack stands and a weeks wait.

ran the tires to be changed from winters blizzaks ws90 to artic claw studded 27.6" 225/60/17. lots a rubbing and clearance issues with the wheel fender. but with those components as non critical, I see it as acceptable.
also require some more fender rolling as the rear would rub into the fore-side of the fenders.
the front tires just barely clear the oil cooler,
went out and bought some wheel tires change lug sockets,




summary: would like better set of coilovers, chop the bumpers, fenders for better clearances, and possible down side to 26.5"-to-27" wheels where the 27.6" are an aggressive size.
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