128i build - NASA TT5/SCCA Time Trial

[bionicbelly]

So i started getting a few parts in over the weekend, and started getting some stuff done on the car. Started out installing the front struts. I bought some used AST 5200's from the E90 section that were off an M3. The reservoir hose is actually on the side of the strut shaft, instead of the top, so I had to run the line up under the fender liner.
Then I got started on the brake ducting. I got some of the Hard Motorsports chamber ducts for a E90 to make it easier. They fit the 1'ers perfectly. I havent had big wheels on yet to check clearances yet, but it looks like these will do the trick. I still have to add a piece of 3" to the backing plate, and figure out what I am going to use for inlets.
Also started stripping the car out. JP Enterprises is going to make a roll bar for our cars that is a really slick bolt in deal, and he wanted to see some pictures of the attachment points, so I took all the seats out, rear seat panels, and trunk panels, and good news,all the e90 bracketry should work, it will only be a matter of shortening and narrowing the hoop and supports. Hopefully it is a nice and quick install.
Still have a huge list of stuff to do, but once I get the front end buttoned up, I am going to start on the rear. Diff, shocks, M3 arms, and SF bushings.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by bionicbelly

Then I got started on the brake ducting. I got some of the Hard Motorsports chamber ducts for a E90 to make it easier. They fit the 1'ers perfectly. I havent had big wheels on yet to check clearances yet, but it looks like these will do the trick. I still have to add a piece of 3" to the backing plate, and figure out what I am going to use for inlets.

I routed my brake duct through the engine bay side of the wheel well. I can't see how you won't rub on that bract duct with wide wheels. Let us know how it goes once you've got the wheels on.

[spxxx]

E90 m3 front shocks fit our chassis? I was under the impression they didn't... I know the rears are easy with the M3 lower arms.

[bionicbelly]

These have (had) a sleeve that goes over the lower part of the strut to make the diameter bigger. I think MCS does the same thing. Struts are the same, just some added accessories.

[bionicbelly]

So, it turns out the backing plates are aluminum. Nobody makes bolt on backing plates with ducting, but I found a thread that suggested using aircraft duct ports for the flange on the backing plate. Here is what I ended up with.

Over all, pretty happy. I have a couple of things to clean up, burrs and whatnot, put some paint on there maybe. If any of you have seen the thread I am talking about (guy used naca ducts on the belly pan for inlets) I did do a couple of different things on the flanges. It involved a hammer, so it honestly isn't pretty, but I think it will be more functional. Instead of just cutting off the flange on the tops and bottom, I cut out some sections, so that I could fold the top over the backing plate and use that for another rivet, and on the bottom, I rolled the flange over to minimize the space between the flange and the back of the disk. Hopefully, it will allow more air to be channeled to the disc, and less of it to escape. The gap is still considerable though.

Also go the new headlights in, fender liners, etc. I still have to put the front bumper cover back on to see what I am going to do for the ducting inlets.

also, LSD is on the way. I got the Mfactory torsen unit from synchro tech (they are having 10% off) so as soon as I get the front end buttoned up, it is on to the back.

[spxxx]

Originally Posted by bionicbelly

So, it turns out the backing plates are aluminum. Nobody makes bolt on backing plates with ducting, but I found a thread that suggested using aircraft duct ports for the flange on the backing plate. Here is what I ended up with.

Over all, pretty happy. I have a couple of things to clean up, burrs and whatnot, put some paint on there maybe. If any of you have seen the thread I am talking about (guy used naca ducts on the belly pan for inlets) I did do a couple of different things on the flanges. It involved a hammer, so it honestly isn't pretty, but I think it will be more functional. Instead of just cutting off the flange on the tops and bottom, I cut out some sections, so that I could fold the top over the backing plate and use that for another rivet, and on the bottom, I rolled the flange over to minimize the space between the flange and the back of the disk. Hopefully, it will allow more air to be channeled to the disc, and less of it to escape. The gap is still considerable though.

Also go the new headlights in, fender liners, etc. I still have to put the front bumper cover back on to see what I am going to do for the ducting inlets.

also, LSD is on the way. I got the Mfactory torsen unit from synchro tech (they are having 10% off) so as soon as I get the front end buttoned up, it is on to the back.

Looks great, I had a set built but then went BBK to alleviate all heat concerns. Love me some DIY garage fab work!

[frontside0815]

Originally Posted by bionicbelly

These have (had) a sleeve that goes over the lower part of the strut to make the diameter bigger. I think MCS does the same thing. Struts are the same, just some added accessories.

So i can buy this sleeve to use e.g. öhlins from m3/1m in my e82?

[bionicbelly]

Originally Posted by frontside0815

So i can buy this sleeve to use e.g. öhlins from m3/1m in my e82?

I would actually think so. I have a set if you want to try it out.

[frontside0815]

Originally Posted by bionicbelly

I would actually think so. I have a set if you want to try it out.

A set of sleeves?

[bionicbelly]

Originally Posted by frontside0815

A set of sleeves?

I sure do. The inside diameter should be the same, and the outside definitely is. They are basically this...

http://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspensio...or-Sleeve.html

but there is a shoulder at the top.

Do you have the shocks now? If you want to try it out, I can send them that way.

[frontside0815]

Sorry but i think i am misunderstanding:
The Sleeves you Show are adding a bigger Diameter to the MCS shock for using them in an 1M.
So the 1M has bigger Shocks then the normal 135i.
That means that e.g. a öhlins damper would Need to have a sleeve which Needs to be unmounted to be fitted in an 135i.

If it is a 1M damper without sleeve i won´t fit for sure. If there is a sleeve the question is still if the Diameter of the strut is the same as needed for the 135i.

And since öhlins uses 2 Different struts for the AG and the M Model, i doubt it´s just removing the Sleeve..

[bionicbelly]

Originally Posted by frontside0815

So i can buy this sleeve to use e.g. öhlins from m3/1m in my e82?

I think I know what you are saying now. I think you have it backwards. The sleeve is to use non-M diameter struts in an M car, or some of the higher end dampers like MCS, AST, Moton, JRZ.

IF an M damper has this sleeve, it can be removed, and MAY be the same size as the non M damper.

[bionicbelly]

Got the rear subframe out. This week, will hopefully get the LSD installed, bushings, and rear shocks installed, and this back up in the car. I hope.

A couple of notes, 1. My car has the bolt on driveshaft, so no need for the 52mm (or whatever it is) wrench to remove the driveshaft. 2. I was able to drop the whole assembly with no problem with a single floor jack. with the jack under the diff, toward the rear, it was perfectly balanced, and very stable. 3. This car, while it has a lot of stupid little things wrong with it that continually piss me off, is so clean. There is no rust anywhere. All the fasteners look like new, and have, so far, been very cooperative.

[spxxx]

Originally Posted by bionicbelly

Got the rear subframe out. This week, will hopefully get the LSD installed, bushings, and rear shocks installed, and this back up in the car. I hope.

A couple of notes, 1. My car has the bolt on driveshaft, so no need for the 52mm (or whatever it is) wrench to remove the driveshaft. 2. I was able to drop the whole assembly with no problem with a single floor jack. with the jack under the diff, toward the rear, it was perfectly balanced, and very stable. 3. This car, while it has a lot of stupid little things wrong with it that continually piss me off, is so clean. There is no rust anywhere. All the fasteners look like new, and have, so far, been very cooperative.

Whoa I've never seen or heard of a bolt on diff. That big ass bolt is a pain when you're not on a lift.

[bionicbelly]

Originally Posted by spxxx

Whoa I've never seen or heard of a bolt on diff. That big ass bolt is a pain when you're not on a lift.

Yeah, I was really happy to see that. It makes so many things easier. It kind of sounds like it is a 128 thing, regardless of year, and I suspect the only reason a 128 can't use the smaller automatic 135 diff.

Also, I tore the diff down last night to install the Mfactory helical, and I was really nervous. I mean, generally, if it costs a minimum of $500 bucks to do something, it is usually a fairly big deal. This is not. I had everything apart in less than an hour. I did get stalled because I don't have a separator to get the inner races off the old diff unit, but I will today. I am pretty sure I could install one in less than two hours. Gear change would be a different matter, but a straight LSD install is a breeze. It took way longer to do the valve cover, OFH, and intake manifold gaskets.

[spxxx]

Originally Posted by bionicbelly

Yeah, I was really happy to see that. It makes so many things easier. It kind of sounds like it is a 128 thing, regardless of year, and I suspect the only reason a 128 can't use the smaller automatic 135 diff.

Also, I tore the diff down last night to install the Mfactory helical, and I was really nervous. I mean, generally, if it costs a minimum of $500 bucks to do something, it is usually a fairly big deal. This is not. I had everything apart in less than an hour. I did get stalled because I don't have a separator to get the inner races off the old diff unit, but I will today. I am pretty sure I could install one in less than two hours. Gear change would be a different matter, but a straight LSD install is a breeze. It took way longer to do the valve cover, OFH, and intake manifold gaskets.

I also installed one once. What did you use for the races? That held me up too, it took me like 6hr to do mine but this was like 5yrs ago and there weren't any good DIYs on which tools you need.

[bionicbelly]

Pulled subframe bushings. I can only imagine how terrible stock bushings are with sticky tires. I would like to know what the actual stock deflection measurement is. Anyway, replacing with Condor Speedshop solid delrin bushes.

For those that were wondering, this is the tool kit I used. It is not mine, and I have no idea where it was purchased, but it was fantastic. This job could easily be done with the subframe in the car. I am guessing it would have to be lowered about an inch and a half.

[Z3SpdDmn]

Looks possibly like the kit from Bimmertools.com
Nice!

[RyanDavies]

FWIW, the OEM bushings allow the subframe to be pried around almost an inch in every direction with a pry bar...so, a lot of deflection.

[bionicbelly]

Originally Posted by RyanDavies

FWIW, the OEM bushings allow the subframe to be pried around almost an inch in every direction with a pry bar...so, a lot of deflection.

That is insane. That would be terrible on track.

[Zombie_Head]

I read an article about the 125i/128i having so much rear play, you can move the rear subframe with a pry bar by about 1".

I believe it is a sticky "128i simple fun great price" article.

[bionicbelly]

No pictures from this weekend, but I did get a bunch done. Interior has been stripped out, M3 rear camber arms installed, Rear subframe re-installed, trailer hitch installed, Coolerworx shifter installed (F'ing PITA to keep the shift boot...I had to sew), trans mounts installed, and trans and diff fluid changed/added. Toe, track, and camber arms on the way from BW and Rouge for the rear, so once I get those, the rear should be done besides the alignment, and finding a place for the shock canisters.

Also ordered the driver seat, and Brey-Krause seat mounts.

So much still to do...