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02-27-2014, 12:01 AM | #89 |
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Use the positive terminal under the hood and connect it to another car battery with jumper cables, then negative on the battery to the frame. Once connected, use your remote to pop the trunk.
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02-27-2014, 02:00 AM | #90 |
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Even though this is a bump of an old thread, I enjoyed reading this. Hahaha. Can't believe that cars are so electronic now days that something as simple as opening the trunk with no battery becomes such a mission. Nice to know what not to do now at least.
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03-23-2014, 02:39 AM | #91 |
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Bump. Just Did This. Can't Get Any Electricity Into The Car. Tried Battery Charger, Jumper Cables With Another Car. Nothing Is Working.
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Willow Springs - Big Willow (CW): 1:35.8 - 3/31/18 |||| Buttonwillow #13 (CW): 1:59.3 1/27/18 https://www.facebook.com/JakeStumphRacing |||| http://www.youtube.com/user/RaceMeMZ3 |
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03-23-2014, 09:22 AM | #93 |
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I pulled apart the junction box, and it's such a tight fit in there, and I have no idea where to begin with the harness. Don't want to risk destroying the car.
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Streets of Willow: 1:27.7 CW 11/15/15; 1:29.5 CCW 8/15/15 |||| Autoclub Speedway ROVAL (CCW): 1.52.6 - 12/2/17
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08-24-2014, 02:13 PM | #94 |
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Ok, before going on a holiday, I disconnected the battery and locked the car. Now, wait for it, I'm in the same situation as OP. Haven't tried anything yet, though. Will update this soon.
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08-24-2014, 04:57 PM | #95 |
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Most important thing, lots of the folks who said they couldn't get it to work tried using a battery charger connected to the under-hood terminal. That may not work because the charger won't see the load it needs to start charging.
Use a good battery and a set of jumper cables to supply power to the terminals under the hood and see what happens. |
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08-26-2014, 02:50 AM | #96 |
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All good. Used a batter charger, connected to the terminal and in a few secs was able to to open the trunk. No christmas tree lights on the dash, just the clock and average consumption were deleted. Phew.
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08-27-2014, 08:21 PM | #97 |
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Is there a way to keep the trunk from locking?
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08-28-2014, 07:00 AM | #98 |
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I can't get mine out of the garage due to a dumpster in the drive way for rennovations of the house so I haven't started it to see if that allows me to open the trunk. I also haven't put a charger on it to give it a try but I should.
But once my trunk is open, I am thinking it would be a good idea to change this a bit. I would like to bring the emergency release out of the trunk into the area below the rear seat. I've had the rear seat out but don't remember whether it is just a slip fit or there are fasteners to remove. All I remember is it wasn't difficult. If I could lift the rear seat and pull a cable to open the trunk, I think I will have eliminated a significant risk. Anybody look at doing something like extending the cable into the rear seat area?
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05-15-2020, 07:15 AM | #99 |
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For any of you that are still interested in a solution to this problem, I have a method which has worked. The boot release cable (bowden cable) needs to be pulled. Actually, it can be reached via the left license plate light. First remove the license plate light then using a stiff wire with a hook in it, pull the bowden cable. It can be fiddly and you may need to shine a light in the cavity, but I have done it twice for my e88, so I know it's possible. Good luck everyone
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08-01-2020, 03:01 PM | #100 |
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NO battery, trunk won't open 2011 128i conv.
Late to the game, but, I want to thank Murray(?) and a few others - Dealer wanted $600++ to do this!
Reiterating his post: 1. Remove trim from under the glovebox. 2. Disconnect (Slide the clips on the left side) the 2 wiring harnesses to the junction box behind the glovebox and push them aside. S 3. Search through the dozen or so wires in the back right-hand corner of the junction box and find the gray wire with a green stripe -- mine was gray only. 4. Shave a bald spot on on the wire and expose some copper. 5. Hit it with 12v and listen for the trunk actuator to open. Who ever the bean counter was at BMW that decided to remove the manual key hole from the trunk should be tarred and feathered. |
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08-02-2020, 09:53 PM | #101 |
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To also jump on this old thread - I recently disconnected the battery while working on retrofitting lumbar support to the seats. When you pull the trunk floor out to get to the battery, lay the trunk floor back over the trunk latch area half in and half out of the trunk! It's a nice fit, won't move on it's own, and there is then NO way to accidentally close and latch the trunk.
For storing the car, a much better idea is a good battery maintainer - I've been doing that with my 3-series wagon for many years over the winter while I am in Florida, or even for longer work trips. The original battery lasted over nine years doing this. But I agree, having no simple, mechanical way to get into the trunk with no power is colossally stupid.
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08-03-2020, 02:53 AM | #102 |
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Yep. It wouldn't have been difficult to fix. We have a cable actuated hood and electronic trunk button.
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08-03-2020, 08:28 AM | #103 | |
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Quote:
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08-03-2020, 08:52 AM | #104 |
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It is amazing how many people just naturally close the trunk even when you know what will happen when your battery is disconnected. I did it the first time I worked on my car. I did the wire hanger in the license plate light hole method and it worked.. Ive had water getting into my battery tray before, so after cleaning the clogged drains inside the convertible top storage area and fixing a poorly installed wheel well cover, i fixed it. I put those goodyear rubber mats in the trunk and first thing I do when I open my trunk now is put a floor at over the latch. Has become such a habit now, I do it even when I'm not disconnecting the battery
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