What did you do to/for your 1er today?

[low135]

Well, I give up on this lip at least. Might wait until it's bagged and go with a beefier lip. I think this one is too light and flimsy. I was hearing it at 50+ so I think it's flexing too much.

[Esteban]

Originally Posted by low135

Well, I give up on this lip at least. Might wait until it's bagged and go with a beefier lip. I think this one is too light and flimsy. I was hearing it at 50+ so I think it's flexing too much.

Bummer...

Guess my luck didn't help. lol

[iminhell1]

Bit the bullet and ordered the 7.5" race from Terry.

[low135]

Originally Posted by Esteban

Bummer...

Guess my luck didn't help. lol

Thanks for trying haha this thing was just too thin. I think it flexed too much in the wind and dipped to the ground. Pretty junk for $300

[1and1]

Originally Posted by low135

Thanks for trying haha this thing was just too thin. I think it flexed too much in the wind and dipped to the ground. Pretty junk for $300

Need to GoPro that! I'd love to see video of a lip flexing that much!
...wondering if it's the1m rep bumper that isn't stable/strong enough, allowing the movement? Some in-motion video might help define the issue? Maybe a set of splitter supports would be just the thing to cure what ails you?


Did the serp belt tensioner and mickey mouse coolant hose fitting, along with an oil change. The serp belt was still in great shape so didn't replace it. Walked out of the BMW dealership without the belt riding on faith here, and was totally a win with much thanks to the encouragement from Matticus91

Removed the rad fan, removed the serp belt, removed the old tensioner, removed the OE coolant fitting letting coolant drain, cut the hose to remove the OE fitting, replaced with the BMP anodized aluminum fitting then installed the new tensioner assembly and reinstalled the same belt. Changed the oil, topped off the coolant with distilled water resulting in a mix ratio of ~60/40 water to BMW OE coolant- 'bout perfect for Florida summer ambient temps...

Gotta love the electric water pump coolant air bleed process- really, that's just super cool.... (see what I did there...)

[1and1]

Originally Posted by iminhell1

Bit the bullet and ordered the 7.5" race from Terry.

Should be a sweet IC!

I'm running the more basic 5" phoenix racing unit- gotta say it's exceeded my expectations! My power goals are well within the 5" abilities and the OE fittings, so this is just 'bout right for me. The PR 7.5 Race is disturbingly sweet for the price, can't wait to see what you think about it!

[iminhell1]

Originally Posted by 1and1

Should be a sweet IC!

I'm running the more basic 5" phoenix racing unit- gotta say it's exceeded my expectations! My power goals are well within the 5" abilities and the OE fittings, so this is just 'bout right for me. The PR 7.5 Race is disturbingly sweet for the price, can't wait to see what you think about it!

I don't know.
All the BMS hoopla claims it's equal to the VRSF unit. But VRSF says it's not even close.

So I'm not sure it it'll do what I want, stable and low delta IAT's (12* max), or if it'll be a bust and just more wasted money.

My 5" stepped is easily 40* deltas and is never ambient, always 10-15 over just cruising down the road.

[1and1]

Of course VRSF does.....
Logs will tell the story

[BAN_M2C]

Originally Posted by Gangplank

Tried not to cover it in sawdust as I built our new kitchen island with my wife. (Compound miter saw in garage b/c it's 90 deg. & 70% humidity). Just waiting on an eBay shipment of wine crate pieces to finish the endcaps & some drawer pulls.

Looks amazing!

[BAN_M2C]

Had the IND Red Start Button installed.. cant wait to take a spin and feel the 5whp increase

[low135]

@1and1 it's definitely the lip flexing lol it's thin as hell which I thought might work to my advantage with my ride height. The front has a rolled lip so it looks much thicker when in reality it's paper thin

[F13.KENN]

Debadged

[Suprgnat]

Originally Posted by low135

@1and1 it's definitely the lip flexing lol it's thin as hell which I thought might work to my advantage with my ride height. The front has a rolled lip so it looks much thicker when in reality it's paper thin

Solid engineering!

[F13.KENN]

Originally Posted by low135

@1and1 it's definitely the lip flexing lol it's thin as hell which I thought might work to my advantage with my ride height. The front has a rolled lip so it looks much thicker when in reality it's paper thin

Splitter rods? Probably too thin for those to even help

[desertman123]

Originally Posted by rowsdower

Where did you get Bilsteins? I thought they were on backorder for months?

Tire Rack had 1 or 2 last sets sitting in a warehouse far away. It would bounce between 'out of stock' and 'in stock' depending on which page you looked at.

BTW Tire Rack's service was fantastic. Gave them a call and they confirmed stock in minutes, then had the package at my door 48 hours after I placed the order.

Originally Posted by WDE82

You'll really enjoy it. Recommend a 15mm swaybar from a 335 Xi also and some subframe inserts while you have all that unbolted. Get a tap for the swaybar bolt threads in the rear control arm. I forget the size (M10 maybe) but mine were clogged and I couldn't get the swaybar installed until I borrowed one from work.

I'm so excited. My old shocks weren't blown but they'd almost compress themselves just by their own weight. The new ones I really had to yank to get them installed (I am a string bean tho). And even just moving the car around (can't drive w/o a radiator) it's waaay stiffer.

I've been considering sway bars, but it begs the question - how hard will I drive this thing on the street? Still haven't made it to an AutoX and ya boi doesn't have the $$ for a track day until I'm graduated.

How big of a difference will the sway bar make? I already got the inserts and I also installed the rear shocks with the upgraded Monroe mounts.


Also here's where she sits right now. Gonna be redoing some of the cooling system because of the radiator - lower rad hose and thermostat hose.

[WDE82]

Originally Posted by desertman123

Tire Rack had 1 or 2 last sets sitting in a warehouse far away. It would bounce between 'out of stock' and 'in stock' depending on which page you looked at.

BTW Tire Rack's service was fantastic. Gave them a call and they confirmed stock in minutes, then had the package at my door 48 hours after I placed the order.



I'm so excited. My old shocks weren't blown but they'd almost compress themselves just by their own weight. The new ones I really had to yank to get them installed (I am a string bean tho). And even just moving the car around (can't drive w/o a radiator) it's waaay stiffer.

I've been considering sway bars, but it begs the question - how hard will I drive this thing on the street? Still haven't made it to an AutoX and ya boi doesn't have the $$ for a track day until I'm graduated.

How big of a difference will the sway bar make? I already got the inserts and I also installed the rear shocks with the upgraded Monroe mounts.

Since I did the M3 control arms, springs/shocks/struts, the sway bar, and inserts at the same time, I couldn't tell you the actual difference it makes. I just know my whole car feels much better now. The rear sway should reduce understeer and some body roll. There's no downside and it's about $75-100 for a used sway bar and then not much more for new bolts and mounting brackets. Definitely worth doing if you're doing the inserts.

[desertman123]

Originally Posted by WDE82

Since I did the M3 control arms, springs/shocks/struts, the sway bar, and inserts at the same time, I couldn't tell you the actual difference it makes. I just know my whole car feels much better now. The rear sway should reduce understeer and some body roll. There's no downside and it's about $75-100 for a used sway bar and then not much more for new bolts and mounting brackets. Definitely worth doing if you're doing the inserts.

the inserts made a nice and subtle difference. I remember going over a very particular bump on the highway and the front was well defined but the rear was vague. After the inserts they felt pretty similar. Still not perfect but for my power and the fact I never see the track I don't see the value in pressing in M3 bushings. I've definitely become savvy enough to do it.

Also anyone have advice for alignment specs? My goal is OEM+ with this suspension setup. Figured I'd just align to stock spec, with camber maxed out, but it doesn't hurt to ask. Think I'll end up with -1.0° all around with the alignment pins drilled. When I sat the car on the ground the front looks like it added a tiny bit.

[WDE82]

Originally Posted by desertman123

the inserts made a nice and subtle difference. I remember going over a very particular bump on the highway and the front was well defined but the rear was vague. After the inserts they felt pretty similar. Still not perfect but for my power and the fact I never see the track I don't see the value in pressing in M3 bushings. I've definitely become savvy enough to do it.

Also anyone have advice for alignment specs? My goal is OEM+ with this suspension setup. Figured I'd just align to stock spec, with camber maxed out, but it doesn't hurt to ask. Think I'll end up with -1.0° all around with the alignment pins drilled. When I sat the car on the ground the front looks like it added a tiny bit.

Do you have the M3 front arms? If you do I can probably find my alignment sheet from last year.

Lowering the car does make for more negative camber. That's just suspension geometry for you. As it compresses, camber gets more negative to lean the tire in and lifts the outer edge for better tire contact patch.

[rowsdower]

Originally Posted by desertman123

Tire Rack had 1 or 2 last sets sitting in a warehouse far away. It would bounce between 'out of stock' and 'in stock' depending on which page you looked at.

BTW Tire Rack's service was fantastic. Gave them a call and they confirmed stock in minutes, then had the package at my door 48 hours after I placed the order.

WTF, I had an order with TireRack for months and finally cancelled it and bought Konis from ECS. I must have spoken to TireRack on the phone a half dozen times about it while waiting (they would call with an update every few weeks). Lame. Glad you got them though!

[chris_flies]

desertman123 An upgraded front sway bar made the car feel more planted; as in, instead of floating like a boat over to the next lane, you'd drive over to the next lane like a car should. It's also more secure feeling on longer, sweeping corners (the Florida kind, I hear). Worthwhile upgrade, especially if you can find a used one for $100 (I got a new Eibach one for $160 from BimmerWorld). I'd also throw in some fresh end links (another $40-50 total for HD ones) and mount bushings.

EDIT: Are you going with an upgraded CSF radiator, or just OEM?

[iminhell1]

Ordered the ARM Motorsport 3" outlet pipe (hopefully it fits):

[Tarpon]

Replaced the leaking oe radiator with an all aluminum CSF one. Also replaced the drive belt and tensioner since I had some extra room to work. Took it for a quick drive and all good.
Having a beer before cleanup.