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      05-26-2019, 03:16 PM   #11925
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Quote:
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- "M" gas, brake, foot rest pedals installed
- Anthracite black interior trim pieces installed

Next, Suspension!
Pics of the pedals?
My pedals were used...
But this is the exact model...
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      05-26-2019, 04:27 PM   #11926
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Oh.
Is caster adjustable by itself on our cars or is it a consequence of toe and camber (if one has the strut mount pins removed)?
One of the things the M parts do is move the bottom pivot forward and out, increasing caster and camber. The more you can move the top of the strut back (caster) increases caster.

I forget what else is adjustable but not much.
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      05-26-2019, 04:37 PM   #11927
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Originally Posted by Ric in RVA View Post
One of the things the M parts do is move the bottom pivot forward and out, increasing caster and camber. The more you can move the top of the strut back (caster) increases caster.

I forget what else is adjustable but not much.
So if you have the strut mount alignment pins you get what you get?
Mine are in and caster is around 7.5 deg.
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      05-26-2019, 04:52 PM   #11928
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So if you have the strut mount alignment pins you get what you get?
Mine are in and caster is around 7.5 deg.
Correct.
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      05-26-2019, 04:54 PM   #11929
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What I did to my new to me 128i Sport 6 mt.

Redline MTL
Valvoline synthetic 75w90 diff fluid.
CDV delete. (If you have not done this....just go do it....)



Shifts better and the oil definitely needed swapping.
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      05-26-2019, 06:25 PM   #11930
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I added a little more boost.

Soon to follow, block venting. jeeze I hope not
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      05-26-2019, 07:30 PM   #11931
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Still plugging away at this. It's been so long since I've done major bodywork that it's been kind of a pain. Plan is to start wrapping the other panels this weekend and by the time I'm ready to hit the quarters the bodywork will be done. Lots of carbon on order so that stuff should be coming in soon hopefully
Nice!! wheels and tire set-up?
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      05-26-2019, 08:00 PM   #11932
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So if you have the strut mount alignment pins you get what you get?
Mine are in and caster is around 7.5 deg.
Also kaputt

Just to chime in a bit:

-Caster is non-adjustable without caster/camber plates.
-M control arms give a little more caster, but the largest benefit is camber. (I didn't notice any change in steering "feel" from the swap)
-Subtle changes in toe go a long way to improve/destroy steering behavior in these cars.

Adding a little toe-out (a rule of thumb that I followed is just under 0.1 degree out per 1.0 degree of negative camber) did great things for my steering feel. I get reasonable wear on the street, but still ROAST the outside edges on the track (I need camber plates desperately). The steering was lighter (read better), more linear, and far more accurate on the highway.

I still have some tweaking to do (mostly to get the steering wheel perfectly straight) with my alignment...
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      05-26-2019, 08:47 PM   #11933
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Not exactly done today....but this past week I did the following:

1) Redline 75w90 GL-5
2) Redline D4-ATF
3) Mobil 1 0w40/Mann filter
4) Brake flush w ATE SL6 LV fluid
5) Clutch Stop
6) Blacked out front Kidney grills
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      05-26-2019, 09:45 PM   #11934
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by low135 View Post
Still plugging away at this. It's been so long since I've done major bodywork that it's been kind of a pain. Plan is to start wrapping the other panels this weekend and by the time I'm ready to hit the quarters the bodywork will be done. Lots of carbon on order so that stuff should be coming in soon hopefully
Nice!! wheels and tire set-up?
ESR flow formed 19x9.5/10.5+22 on ATR Sport 245/35 and 275/30
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      05-27-2019, 02:14 AM   #11935
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Absolutely in love with how the hood came out. Can't wait to get the bumper done and see it with all the carbon coming in
Gumby is coming along nicely
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      05-27-2019, 12:02 PM   #11936
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2008 1 series  [0.00]
So this happned, decided i didnt like the side liights smoked and the centre light bright red so decided to match them
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      05-27-2019, 12:03 PM   #11937
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and results
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      05-27-2019, 01:24 PM   #11938
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Since it looks like I will have some spare time coming up to install my catless AA headers, I just ordered this Manaflow setup. Previous Owner had done a muffler delete and I knew it would be too loud.

This is supposed to be their "touring" exhaust, and I will be keeping my secondaries. So hopefully it should sound okay.
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      05-27-2019, 02:32 PM   #11939
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gjm120 View Post
Hmm. Maybe you had little to no toe all along. If I recall correctly, when I put on M arms the steering weight didn't change much but I have no idea of what toe spec I had before the installation. The before specs at the shop are useless b/c toe gets so out of whack with the M arms. That's why driving to alignment is so difficult.

Find you specs and post them up here. Someone will have some ideas.
I’ll definitely call the shop tomorrow when they open.

I was doing some other research and do wonder if it could be the tires? I have Continental DWS 06s on the car. These are technically Performance all seasons, but they’re still all seasons, and some reviews say that they have a bit softer sidewall than even the comparable Michelin Pilot Sport AS3.

I’m thinking I may jump on getting the wheels and tires squared up and on Michelin Pilot Sport tires pretty soon.
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      05-27-2019, 02:56 PM   #11940
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Quote:
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I’ll definitely call the shop tomorrow when they open.

I was doing some other research and do wonder if it could be the tires? I have Continental DWS 06s on the car. These are technically Performance all seasons, but they’re still all seasons, and some reviews say that they have a bit softer sidewall than even the comparable Michelin Pilot Sport AS3.

I’m thinking I may jump on getting the wheels and tires squared up and on Michelin Pilot Sport tires pretty soon.
I don't think the fact they are all season tires is alone the factor, but, the Conti DWS are considered to have softer sidewalls than some other all season tires. I may be off on this but I'd think softer sidewalls would make the steering feel heavier.

Will be interesting to see what your alignment spec are. Some on here - Chris Flies in particular - know a good bit about alignment.
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      05-27-2019, 08:06 PM   #11941
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Has anyone ever replaced a convertible roof ? My E88 rear glass has separated from the cover again and I'm done trying to glue it. I've seen complete roof units including the frame on eBay for $550 including shipping which I can live with if it fixes the issue. So, my question is, how difficult is this ? I'm thinking it can't be so bad since I'm replacing the frame and cover as one piece but does anyone have any insight on this ? Is it just a few bolts and an electrical connector or is there more to it, hydraulics, a major tear down, etc ?
I have a decent amount of experience wrenching, done an engine swap on a Speed6, did my downpipes, intercooler, walnut blast on the N54, so I'm not scared to get my hands dirty and get stuck in. It's my daily so it needs to be a weekend job....thanks in advance.
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      05-28-2019, 12:08 PM   #11942
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Has anyone ever replaced a convertible roof ? My E88 rear glass has separated from the cover again and I'm done trying to glue it. I've seen complete roof units including the frame on eBay for $550 including shipping which I can live with if it fixes the issue. So, my question is, how difficult is this ?
Do a search on this forum, there's some info on how folks did some home repairs...
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      05-28-2019, 12:14 PM   #11943
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Do a search on this forum, there's some info on how folks did some home repairs...
Thanks, I've seen a lot of posts about this and have tried a few methods, glue, 3M tape etc. I'm done trying to repair it only for it to come undone again in two months.
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      05-28-2019, 03:15 PM   #11944
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Thanks, I've seen a lot of posts about this and have tried a few methods, glue, 3M tape etc. I'm done trying to repair it only for it to come undone again in two months.
Gotcha... sorry this happened..
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      05-28-2019, 03:33 PM   #11945
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I am now into about two years with my repair. Looks like crap, but it holds. I explained process and products I used, but it is generally too cumbersome/complex for most to try. Need a 200w glue gun (not generally available at HD) and a specialty glue. If you can find the glue, you can melt the glue with any reasonable gun, which some want to do. What does not communicate is that the cheap guns do not get the glue to temp, so it melts but does not flow well enough to seal. Also have to feel comfortable caulking in a smooth, flowing motion, because that is essentially what is being done. If you want details, let me know.
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      05-28-2019, 05:49 PM   #11946
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mandinca View Post
Has anyone ever replaced a convertible roof ? My E88 rear glass has separated from the cover again and I'm done trying to glue it. I've seen complete roof units including the frame on eBay for $550 including shipping which I can live with if it fixes the issue. So, my question is, how difficult is this ? I'm thinking it can't be so bad since I'm replacing the frame and cover as one piece but does anyone have any insight on this ? Is it just a few bolts and an electrical connector or is there more to it, hydraulics, a major tear down, etc ?
I have a decent amount of experience wrenching, done an engine swap on a Speed6, did my downpipes, intercooler, walnut blast on the N54, so I'm not scared to get my hands dirty and get stuck in. It's my daily so it needs to be a weekend job....thanks in advance.
If you do the job, I'd be interested to know. I expect you'd be able to pick one up very cheap from a wrecker. Removal seems pretty straightforward (but I wouldn't under-estimate the weight of the roof) - but I thought I read somewhere that re-installation requires re-tensioning of the mechanism, and I'd hate to think what's involved in that.

I'm driving around with an acrylic back window. It works, and because it weights almost nothing compared to glass it's not going anywhere. But it looks like shit.

I just can't justify $3k on a new roof.

Last edited by xQx; 05-28-2019 at 05:58 PM..
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