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      05-22-2014, 02:20 PM   #45
gregthegr8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fresh2391 View Post
I know this thread is a little aged, but I'm getting the bushings done this weekend. Mechanic said the same about the front subframe bushings, but he thinks he it might unsafe going through the top...any thoughts on this? I know the bushings have that lip to keep them in place...to a degree, so is that lip just pushed through until it pops out the other side or is the bushing installed backwards?
You might want to look into renting the HPA bushing tool specifically designed for this job.

http://www.hpashop.com/Bushing-Tool-...g-tool-kit.htm
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      05-22-2014, 03:46 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fresh2391 View Post
I know this thread is a little aged, but I'm getting the bushings done this weekend. Mechanic said the same about the front subframe bushings, but he thinks he it might unsafe going through the top...any thoughts on this? I know the bushings have that lip to keep them in place...to a degree, so is that lip just pushed through until it pops out the other side or is the bushing installed backwards?
The lip really just locates the bushing in its correct position. They are held in by friction (of which there is lots, as you will find when you try to push one out). You pull that bushing in from the top. There is no way the lip can be "popped through" so what you call backwards is actually forwards (from the bushing's point of view).
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      05-22-2014, 11:54 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fe1rx View Post
The lip really just locates the bushing in its correct position. They are held in by friction (of which there is lots, as you will find when you try to push one out). You pull that bushing in from the top. There is no way the lip can be "popped through" so what you call backwards is actually forwards (from the bushing's point of view).
Makes sense...thanks!
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      06-05-2014, 09:20 PM   #48
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I might be going this route.
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      06-06-2014, 04:03 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by Chunner View Post
I might be going this route.
It's totally worth it! After this next step is M3 control arm and tension rod bits.
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      06-15-2014, 08:47 AM   #50
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I agree with Dackel... Totally worth it! Tightened up the waggle and gives it more purpose. I just got mine done by VR Performance in the Detroit area (Sterling Heights). Complete, all in, WAY below all the other posts and offers I've seen. Way less. Nice shop, they do work on the evenings so best to leave a message or email. Check 'em out if you're interested.
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      07-29-2014, 10:30 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
It's totally worth it! After this next step is M3 control arm and tension rod bits.
Dackelone,

Can you check your magic hat and confirm that these rear sub-frame bushing part #s

(x2) bmw #33312283382
(x2) bmw #33312283383

Will fit in my USA 2013 135is

Thanks!
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      07-30-2014, 03:37 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chunner View Post
Dackelone,

Can you check your magic hat and confirm that these rear sub-frame bushing part #s

(x2) bmw #33312283382
(x2) bmw #33312283383

Will fit in my USA 2013 135is

Thanks!
YES! those are the correct rear axle bushings. Just look up the bushing for a 1M or M3 and you will see them listed.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...=33&fg=30&hl=2
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      08-18-2014, 05:14 PM   #53
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Dackle, thanks for this thread. My conversion will be completed this Wednesday. Cheers to you!
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      08-20-2014, 03:06 PM   #54
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yeah baby!
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      08-20-2014, 05:30 PM   #55
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Thank you very much for this post! The 1st thing I notice when I was driving from Germany to Portugal, was the wobbling at 120mph! Omg! It's scary!!! I guess I'm not used to it! Maybe because I have a track car (mini gp) with pss10, bushings, endlinks, control arms , camber plates , etc! And so the mini is totally planted to the ground!
I thought the car needed an alignment, it did but wasn't too bad... And in the middle of the trip to Portugal I found your post! And I was so happy... Because I started to think something was wrong with the car!
So the 1st thing I did when I arrived into Portugal, was head to a BMW dealer, literally that same day I arrived ( around 3pm) I went and ordered all those parts for the rear... I guess I should of ordered also the front... But just the rear parts plus man work ended up around 1000 euros... And I had already on order the induction kit and exhaust from bmwpe...
So next month I will order the front parts as well!!! I'm super excited!!!
Thank you so much!
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      08-22-2014, 03:05 PM   #56
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oh my dear... this is the must do mod.... just spent 2 hours of seat time with the 1m/m3 bushings and wow..... what a feeling. Dackel's observations are dead on. Worth every penny! Everybody, just go do it!
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      08-22-2014, 03:21 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chunner View Post
oh my dear... this is the must do mod.... just spent 2 hours of seat time with the 1m/m3 bushings and wow..... what a feeling. Dackel's observations are dead on. Worth every penny! Everybody, just go do it!
Welcome to the ///M bushing club.
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      08-25-2014, 06:01 PM   #58
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Ima do it. Looking for a tool. Hpa is back ordered for rental looks like. Any ideas appreciated.

Losing the RFTs as I type this
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      08-28-2014, 11:36 PM   #59
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Anyone know a bay area dealer who does it willing to travel till sac/fresno area of course? Cars a lease, gonna be bought at end of lease in January. Do not want to void the warranty. Me too loosing the RFT dunlops next month.
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      10-11-2015, 01:32 PM   #60
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Sub Frame To Differential Bushings

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
It's totally worth it! After this next step is M3 control arm and tension rod bits.
I have decided to upgrade mine rear sub frame bushing to M1 bushing but want to find out should I also include upgrading the 3 sub frame to differential bushing to M1 bushings also. will it this fit mine 2009 128i.

Pls revert urgently Decks.
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      10-12-2015, 12:03 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NIB View Post
I have decided to upgrade mine rear sub frame bushing to M1 bushing but want to find out should I also include upgrading the 3 sub frame to differential bushing to M1 bushings also. will it this fit mine 2009 128i.

Pls revert urgently Decks.

I really can't say you will need new diff bushings. Maybe only if your getting lots of axle hop on launches. I don't drive that way in my 135i so, I doubt they are really needed on a 128i.

What you should DO is get new SS (DOT approved) brake lines. You have to remove the rear brake lines when you drop the rear axle to remove/press in the bushings. 1M and M3 RSF bushings are the same part.

take care,
Dackel
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      10-19-2015, 06:01 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
I really can't say you will need new diff bushings. Maybe only if your getting lots of axle hop on launches. I don't drive that way in my 135i so, I doubt they are really needed on a 128i.

What you should DO is get new SS (DOT approved) brake lines. You have to remove the rear brake lines when you drop the rear axle to remove/press in the bushings. 1M and M3 RSF bushings are the same part.

take care,
Dackel
Noted and thanks, but do advise me on this, I can not get the stock wheels for mine 128i here immediately, but I have an 8J X 17 IS46 available here. If I decide to use this, what tyres specification can I use for front and back and if I want staggered tyre for this wheel, what specification for front and back.
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      10-19-2015, 11:08 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NIB View Post
Noted and thanks, but do advise me on this, I can not get the stock wheels for mine 128i here immediately, but I have an 8J X 17 IS46 available here. If I decide to use this, what tyres specification can I use for front and back and if I want staggered tyre for this wheel, what specification for front and back.

i think those wheels are perfect for your car. As for tires, I keep it simple, 215/45 on front and 225/45 on rear. These sizes are very common, and therefore best price.
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      11-30-2015, 07:07 PM   #64
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Dack (and any others that have done the 1M/M3 bushings),

How big of a difference did you notice on RFT vs. non-RFT? I'm debating whether to do it now or once I wear through my current set of tires and switch to Pilot Super Sports.
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      11-30-2015, 07:37 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ubersteuer View Post
Dack (and any others that have done the 1M/M3 bushings),

How big of a difference did you notice on RFT vs. non-RFT? I'm debating whether to do it now or once I wear through my current set of tires and switch to Pilot Super Sports.
Its a BIG difference. What I noticed most, was the tires felt like they were made out of rubber instead of really hard, unflexible rocks. When you travel over a dip or bump in the road surface... the tires would follow those bumps, instead of hang in the air and come crashing down after the bump. It really is a night and day difference. Its really worth while to ditch the run flats IMO.

I wrote all about it in my 225/255 Michelin tire writeup. What ever tires you get... buy the best money can buy. PSS's are tops! It also helps to get a tire with a reinforced sidewall(even w/o RFT's to give you some better steering response).

My new Michelin PS3’s 225’s & 255’s…
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=510873


The only real down side to ditching the RFT's is you will loose "some" of thay sharp initial steering response that the run flat tires give you. Where as with RFT's you only need to turn the steering wheel say one inch from center on position... with regular tires you have to move the steering wheel say two inches. After awhile you adjust to it. I'd still do it all over again. I love my Michelins.

I should warn you... after you do the RSB and ditch your RFT's... your gonna want to start working on upgrading the rest of the 1er's suspension. Its a Rabbit hole we all have gone down.

Dackel
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      12-01-2015, 12:51 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post

I should warn you... after you do the RSB and ditch your RFT's... your gonna want to start working on upgrading the rest of the 1er's suspension. Its a Rabbit hole we all have gone down.

Dackel
Search button would have served me well

The rabbit hole is exactly why I'm afraid to do ANYTHING yet. I like the car as-is but there is room for significant improvement. Plus, I grew somewhat used to the the loose rear end after 3 years in my e92 335i. It really bothered me coming out of an e36 m3 into the e92 though.

Currently my car sees daily driving duty, I have an e36 build in the works that will see all of my track and auto-x time. However, that doesn't stop me from wanting a sharp handling daily. I think the smart and most cost effective way to do it is to ride out my current setup until my rear tires are worn. When they're toast, I'll do a complete refresh with all the little 1M/M3 bits, sways, shocks/springs, and tires all at once. Completely agree with you that tires are one area you should never skimp on.

Thanks for the thorough rundown!

For now I'll put my time, effort, and funds towards my xenon retrofit which will yield more noticeable results on my 70mph drive home in a straight line.
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