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      10-10-2020, 09:05 AM   #1
JimD
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Clearing code P0442 and ABS light

My 2009 e88, n52 may be showing it's age. Actually it has had code P0442 for several years - it is the "gas cap code" and indicates a small leak in the evaporative control system. I finally took off the inner fender liner from the passengers rear and tray in back to look at the lines and I see absolutely no issues. I guess there is a line going to the engine too - anybody know where it connects? If I cannot find an issue, suggestions on what to replace? I guess I could start with the gas cap but it looks fine. The little tether line is broken, however, so there would be at least a small benefit to a replacement.

My second nagging issue is the ABS light is on. The car drives normally so I have been ignoring it for a couple weeks but I can't see the outside temperature with it on so I would like to make it go away. I'm guessing it is a sensor at a wheel but is there a way to know which one? I checked for check engine codes just now and the only one was for the evaporative leak.
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      10-10-2020, 09:38 AM   #2
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Suggest starting with the easiest thing if you are in hunt & peck mode. Gas cap is not that expensive and is obviously much easier to deal with than removing a fender or liner. If it does not clear the code, you are not out much.
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      10-10-2020, 10:52 AM   #3
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I agree and I bought one on Amazon, should have it tomorrow.

I also googled the BMW ABS system and several youtubes are consistent in suggesting ABS sensors as the most likely issue. On one of them they used a "C110" OBDII device to see which sensor. It is only $45 so I may buy one. But I looked at the reviews and some suggested it would not solve their issue. An "Autophix 7810" seems to do more, but of course it costs $120. But that is still not bad since I plan to keep this car awhile and may well have other issues. One thing the autophix does which te C110 does not is register batteries. I think I did that in INPA earlier this year but it would be nice to check it. If the new battery lasts as long as the first one I will probably not need to do this again, however. But it seems my generic code reader will not let me see this code - since it is not an emission issue.
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      10-10-2020, 12:41 PM   #4
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Rather than piss away money on one time use devices, maybe bite the bullet and take the car to someone who can fix it the first go round?
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      10-10-2020, 04:23 PM   #5
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I've thought about just taking it somewhere and I may still have to. But you can't get much work done for the $20 a gas cap costs or even the $120 for the more expensive code reader. I also strongly suspect these will not be my final issues with this 11 year old car. I do not drive it daily any more but plan to hold on to it. I like to know what the car says the problem is before I take it somewhere. I don't always fix it but I like having an idea what is going on before I decide whether I will try and fix it.

The last time I paid to have it fixed I paid $800 for an alternator changeout. The part was $600 which it may have listed for but I saw alternators for $200 in a quick search (that were for my car). It was my daily driver at that time, I did not have a backup so I did what I needed to do. But at this point I have another vehicle so it makes it more feasible for me to fix things - and potentially save significant money.

The wheel speed sensors are $40 or less per wheel at Rock Auto. Replacing them is one bolt and finding the electrical connector and swapping the connection from the old to the new. So if I need one or more, it is a job I know I can easily do. I had the passenger's rear wheel off to look at the evaporative system so I pulled that sensor off today and it was very simple - once the wheel is off.
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      10-11-2020, 02:59 PM   #6
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I took the low tech approach to the wheel sensors today and just pulled all four wheels and looked at them. Fronts show no signs of wear, seem to not be touching but both rears show definite wear, passengers side worse than drivers. For today I just put a washer for a 1/4 inch bolt under the sensor to move it out (saw that on line).

I want to take it for a drive to see if the light goes away but the new gas cap hasn't arrived yet. I reset that code yesterday and drove it to church and back (about 50 miles total) and the code has not reappeared. The only thing I did was to unplug and then replug the pump a couple times. It definitely runs now, however, and I did not notice it running before.

So maybe both issues are fixed at minimal cost - maybe. I will know later this week.
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      10-12-2020, 08:23 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimD View Post
I took the low tech approach to the wheel sensors today and just pulled all four wheels and looked at them. Fronts show no signs of wear, seem to not be touching but both rears show definite wear, passengers side worse than drivers. For today I just put a washer for a 1/4 inch bolt under the sensor to move it out (saw that on line).
This works.
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      10-13-2020, 09:25 AM   #8
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Well the washer did not clear the abs light. I did not measure them first but I did just now and they were about .006 inches thick or about 1.5mm. So I made some thinner ones, about .026 inches or .7mm and tried them. Light is still on. So although I do not see anything beyond scuffing on the rear sensors I will try replacing them next, initially at least with these thinner washers. If that doesn't work, I will probably buy the more expensive scanner but I might take it somewhere. The only real long term solution is to replace the inductance wheel that is part of the driveshafts. The scuffing is due to rusting of the wheel which isn't going to stop or get better. I don't think I will tackle that but am still hoping to get a temporary solution that works for a few years.

But the simple attempts seem to have fixed the evaporative system issue. I have driven the car 4 times since checking things. Twice with the old gas cap and now twice with the new. No CEL.

Maybe a few fairly inexpensive parts will take care of the ABS too. It was raining here Sunday when I drove the car and I found it enjoyable that the ABS and stability control were off. I'd never driven it that way in the wet. My Uniroyal Tiger Paw all seasons do not grip well at all in the rain - which was more noticable for me since I had Michelin Super Sports on before which are great in the rain. Anyway, I could spin the tires at will in the wet through first and up into second gear. I did not overdo it but it was fun. I'm not terribly worried about driving it with these systems out, I drove for several decades before cars had these systems. But it would be nice not to have the lights on the dash lit up.
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      10-14-2020, 10:49 AM   #9
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I did today what I should have done before putting in a washer. I looked at the reluctor. I viewed several youtubes where people had nasty rusted up reluctors and assumed that was my issue due to a little debris on my sensor. Today I looked, the reluctor is nice and shiny. The sensor does not move when I rotate the brake rotor (and thus axle). So I pulled the washers and ordered the more expensive scanner I mentioned earlier. There was a coupon which dropped the price to about $100. It is supposed to arrive Saturday.

For anybody new to working on a 1 series I will add a couple comments about jacking the car up for access. It is best to have a low profile jack, one that will go down to no more than 3.5 inches. I used to use one that would not and rolled the car up on 1.5 inch thick wooden blocks to get my jack under the car. But that was a hassle and the jack got to where you could not lower the car gradually and so I bought a new low profile jack (black line by arcan). Much nicer jack than my old harbor freight. I also use aluminum plates that fit into the jacking points. I used to use wooden blocks which work but the aluminum pieces are much nicer. Since you need to use your jack or a stand at these specific points, the way I raise the car is to jack on the other end of the car from where I want to work and put a stand under the end I want to work on. So for this I jack the front and put a stand under the rear before I pull the wheel. The weight distrbution is close enough that both wheels come up when jacking the other end. I do not get under the car with only a jack under it, even a nice jack. I also don't let the jack all the way down after placing the stand. I lower it just enough to get some weight on the stand. I want both helping to support the car if I am going under it. I also use the center jacking points sometimes, mostly the front one, especially if I want both front wheels off the ground. You need a low jack to get to that too.
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      10-14-2020, 08:55 PM   #10
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I have had the abs light come on three times, it will come and go then stay permanent when the wheel sensor dies. Had three replaced, you can use Carly to identify which location it is. If there is no code for the wheel sensor then it may be something else. I have an 09 e88 as well
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      10-17-2020, 10:34 AM   #11
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I got my code checker/clearing tool (the one I mention above, it was about $100) yesterday. I had codes 5D91 and 5D93 indicating the left front wheel sensor is not working. I can also see the signal from the wheel sensors so I tried that. The other 3 show up fine, the left front has no signal. So I ordered it. I took the cheapest shipping option from Rock Auto so I will not get it until late next week.

My total cost for these repairs will thus be about $200. Half of that is for the diagnostic tool I can use again. About $30 of that is rear wheel speed sensors I do not need (at least now). I'm OK with that. I do not believe I could have gotten it fixed any cheaper taking it somewhere although I am sure it would have been fixed sooner. That is not critical to me (since I have another car).

I have not tried the tool for battery registration yet, it is supposed to do that too. Seems worth the $100. It is easy to use, you just plug it into the USB and click through the menus.

I never realized what people talk about with a BMW specific code reader, versus a tool like torque which I also use. Torque will read the codes that cause the "check engine" light to illuminate. But it does not show chassis codes like these ABS codes. My Autophix 7810 reads the chassis codes, shows the signals from the sensors, registers batteries, does neat things. For $100.
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      10-23-2020, 10:11 AM   #12
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Putting in a new left front wheel speed sensor resolved the ABS light issue. The CEL came back for a small evap leak, however. But it happened right after I filled up with gas - so hopefully it is just I didn't get the gas cap on right. The aftermarket cap doesn't feel like the OEM one did.
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      10-25-2020, 02:34 PM   #13
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almost unbelievable

Today I drove my e88 for the first time after replacing the left front wheel sensor. I rolled it out of the garage to check to see if the new sensor was working at the time I replaced it but I didn't even take it out of the driveway. Today I drove it about 50 miles to church and back. On the way, the ABS light started coming on but it would go off again a minute or so later. By the time I came home, it was on continuously. I just checked the code. Right front wheel speed sensor. I have two rears but not another front. So I just ordered it.

I find it really weird that the other front sensor failed on the first trip after I replaced the left. Just my luck, I guess.
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      10-25-2020, 05:55 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimD View Post
Today I drove my e88 for the first time after replacing the left front wheel sensor. I rolled it out of the garage to check to see if the new sensor was working at the time I replaced it but I didn't even take it out of the driveway. Today I drove it about 50 miles to church and back. On the way, the ABS light started coming on but it would go off again a minute or so later. By the time I came home, it was on continuously. I just checked the code. Right front wheel speed sensor. I have two rears but not another front. So I just ordered it.

I find it really weird that the other front sensor failed on the first trip after I replaced the left. Just my luck, I guess.
Expect the other two to go within the next year or two. Sometimes they break due to age or over voltage from the battery
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      10-26-2020, 04:24 PM   #15
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Yeah, when I got the reader and found out it was the left front sensor, I briefly considered sending back the two rears I purchased earlier. But shipping would have cost about as much as one of them and I decided I rather just hold onto them. When the second front failed, it made me happier I have the two rears. So if they fail, I will already have the parts.

I have had headlight bulbs fail reasonably close to each other before, but not this close. But not sensors. My old Suzuki SUV still has the original wheel sensors and it's a 2006 with >150K miles, for instance. I've never replaced a wheel speed sensor before but I haven't kept all my cars this long.
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      10-27-2020, 07:31 AM   #16
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If you have an iphone or android, I recommend getting carly. My father and I also use a scanner similar to what you have, but when it comes to the capabilities of carly, it is easy to see why so many bimmer owners use it.
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      10-29-2020, 02:01 PM   #17
JimD
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I use Torque. It is much cheaper ($5) but also less capable. But my OBD2 to bluetooth went out so Torque doesn't work at the moment. I ordered a new one from Amazon today with one day delivery promised. Torque is neat in creating a screen of gauges of other OBD2 data but will also read and clear the codes which trigger the "check engine" light. It will not code batteries or find the chasis codes. But I now have a reader to do that. I've looked at Carley but I like the setup I have now. One drawback of phone/tablet apps is your phone goes bad or you upgrade and now you've lost the app. There may be ways around that but with Torque only costing $5, it is no big deal. The separate reader will not have that issue. But if Carley works for you, great.

I put the other front wheel sensor on today and verified that it is sending data. I haven't installed the two new rear sensors yet but may if I decide to take the bimmer to see my daughter, son in law, and 2 grandkids for Thanksgiving. It's kind of fun to drive without the stability control but on a long trip at the time of year things could be slick, it is probably a better idea to have it.
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