e8x electric waterpump failure poll...

[ORIGIN M.]

I completely missed this thread, Good Lord.

I have a super clean 2008 128i Vert [N52 no doubt:] that just turned over 40K the other day. I am happy to say I am on the Original Waterpump too...

Originally Posted by Dackelone

I should probably make a post and say my waterpump is still the original one.

I have a 2010 MY, 135i with 56K miles. N54 engine.

[ORIGIN M.]

BTW my 2007 MY X3 w/a N52 suffered a water pump at 75K miles.

I replaced both the WP and the thermostat.. Not fun w/out a lift.

The designs are horrible. They should have Honda make them.

[dm874]

2009 135i, failed at 84k,

The plastic housing on the pump got a small crack somehow...

[naeshy]

Add me to the list . Got me at midnight about 20 mi from home, so had to have it dolly towed.

Model Year/Production date: 2009 / Oct 2008
Miles: 53K
Warranty/Good Will? No
Cost: $523 (kit from Turner, going to DIY)
Engine Code: N54

So besides the amber (then red) overheating warning, and the fact that my coolant is still in place, is there any way to confirm it's the pump?

[fam]

My 2013 135is had the engine overheat yellow/red last month at 30k miles. Replaced water pump and thermostat under warranty.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by naeshy

Add me to the list . Got me at midnight about 20 mi from home, so had to have it dolly towed.

Model Year/Production date: 2009 / Oct 2008
Miles: 53K
Warranty/Good Will? No
Cost: $523 (kit from Turner, going to DIY)
Engine Code: N54

So besides the amber (then red) overheating warning, and the fact that my coolant is still in place, is there any way to confirm it's the pump?

You can check for shadow codes thrown(which do not trigger the ECL from coming on).

[naeshy]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

You can check for shadow codes thrown(which do not trigger the ECL from coming on).

So all I have access to is cheap a Bluetooth OBDII reader with Torque and it's not showing any engine codes. I turned the electrical on and heard what sounded like a high pitch whine which sounds like an electric motor trying to turn (but unable to).

I then cranked it on and the radiator fan went on full blast, non-stop (which I'm assuming is a bad sign since it was stone cold). It went up prolly 40 degrees C in about 12 min just idling.

I've got the parts to replace it tomorrow but I also read that a few of these failures were due to electrical issues (wiring, fuses) though those seem to be on N51/N52. Any chance of that here?

http://wiki.bavariantechnic.com/inde...mp_Malfunction

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by naeshy

So all I have access to is cheap a Bluetooth OBDII reader with Torque and it's not showing any engine codes. I turned the electrical on and heard what sounded like a high pitch whine which sounds like an electric motor trying to turn (but unable to).

I then cranked it on and the radiator fan went on full blast, non-stop (which I'm assuming is a bad sign since it was stone cold). It went up prolly 40 degrees C in about 12 min just idling.

I've got the parts to replace it tomorrow but I also read that a few of these failures were due to electrical issues (wiring, fuses) though those seem to be on N51/N52. Any chance of that here?

http://wiki.bavariantechnic.com/inde...mp_Malfunction

Sure sounds like your water pump is bad. Best thing is to replace it and see how it goes. I did have a friend who had an issue with the fuse-able kink(s) that sits a top of the battery. That red thing. But it sure sounds like your water pump is shot - radiator fan switching on HOGH on cold start is a dead give away.

Good Luck,
Dackel

[naeshy]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Sure sounds like your water pump is bad. Best thing is to replace it and see how it goes. I did have a friend who had an issue with the fuse-able kink(s) that sits a top of the battery. That red thing. But it sure sounds like your water pump is shot - radiator fan switching on HOGH on cold start is a dead give away.

Good Luck,
Dackel

Got 'em changed out, only took like 7 hours due to stuck hoses, upper mounting bolt and "quick" disconnects. I earned my savings, that's for sure. Drove it around and no leaks and no complaints from the car, so

I noticed a lot of oil and grit on my radiator hose in front of the serpentine belt. That pretty normal?

[Artesian]

Another one bites the dust... 71k miles on my 2009 and the pump failed.

Got the pump, hose, thermostat and coolant for about $450. Installed myself. Worst part was larger (not-so) quick connect hose. Fought with it for about 2 hours. Used a flat pry bar clamped to the cross member to finally get it on.

Also, the top screw hole was indeed too shallow to take the new aluminum bolt. Check it with a fingernail to make sure the head is holding the top of the pump. I had to grind off the tip AND about 3 threads to get it to work.

[matmanx1]

2009 128i, no waterpump or thermostat issues. 72k miles.

[Pablito1702]

2009 135i 80,000 miles and no failure yet.

[08135IFL]

5/08 build.

Previous owner had water pump failure and replacement 11/14 and 70k miles.

Full charges by BMW dealer ~$1350.
Authorized amountdue to extended warranty ~$950.
Customer payment ~$350

[Gangplank]

Is there any consensus re:

a) At what mileage does it commonly go out?
b) How often is the coolant changed - does it matter?
c) What mileage should it be done as preventative maint?

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by Gangplank

Is there any consensus re:

a) At what mileage does it commonly go out?
b) How often is the coolant changed - does it matter?
c) What mileage should it be done as preventative maint?

On '08 and '09 cars... the waterpump seems to fail anywhere between 50K miles and 80K miles. On 2010's and newer... most seem to fail around 80 to 90K. I believe in late 2009 BMW changed the supplier for the pump - so maybe that has something to do with it. It also seems to matter IF your are tuned or not, since some of the tunes run the electric pump more often.

IF you drive far from home with the car... I would have it changed sooner rather than later. You can buy (all)the parts for under $500. IF you breakdown somewhere and have a dealer do the job... your likely to spend $1,500 or more for the repair.


Dackel

[Gangplank]

Thanks Dack! That's what I was looking for. I have a 2011 w/ DCT and the PPK. Just bought the car w/ 41k mi. Sounds like I'll be ok putting it off a bit. Probably wait until closer to 60k.

[XAMI]

2008 135i 52k stock, today while driving in cold 4degree celsius weather, I noticed the heater wasn't heating, then all of the sudden the orange temp gauge came on, then the car lost most of it juice (would crawl at 2miles per hour) then the red light came on and i shut it off.
Luckily i was close to home so i was able to start it back up and crawl to my garage.

Does that sound like the water pump/thermostat to you guys?
How much have most of you paid for labor-only? (I plan on ordering parts online)

I just got this car 5 months ago, grrr!

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by IAMX

2008 135i 52k stock, today while driving in cold 4degree celsius weather, I noticed the heater wasn't heating, then all of the sudden the orange temp gauge came on, then the car lost most of it juice (would crawl at 2miles per hour) then the red light came on and i shut it off.
Luckily i was close to home so i was able to start it back up and crawl to my garage.

Does that sound like the water pump/thermostat to you guys?
How much have most of you paid for labor-only? (I plan on ordering parts online)

I just got this car 5 months ago, grrr!

Yep sounds like your water pump went. When you start the engine does the radiator fan come on HIGH right away ? That is also another tell-tell sign.

Dackel

[XAMI]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Yep sounds like your water pump went. When you start the engine does the radiator fan come on HIGH right away ? That is also another tell-tell sign.

Dackel

It sounds normal as far as I can tell when starting it up... but once the temp gauge appears its very loud.

Taking it in tomorrow to get fixed, $1000
there goes my winter-tire-moonie.

[tw1npower]

Just voted on the poll.

My pump went out last night a few blocks from my destination. The warning signs before total failure on my car were low oil temps, poor shifting (DCT) as well as hearing my fan run when the heater was on. I was checking it over the past week with a wifi scanner using torque and there were no codes present. Got the red warning to pull over and shut it down then had it towed to the dealer.

2011 56k pump replaced through CPO coverage.

[Gangplank]

Originally Posted by tw1npower

Just voted on the poll.

My pump went out last night a few blocks from my destination. The warning signs before total failure on my car were low oil temps, poor shifting (DCT) as well as hearing my fan run when the heater was on. I was checking it over the past week with a wifi scanner using torque and there were no codes present. Got the red warning to pull over and shut it down then had it towed to the dealer.

2011 56k pump replaced through CPO coverage.

Can you describe what you mean by poor shifting DCT?

[tw1npower]

Originally Posted by Gangplank

Can you describe what you mean by poor shifting DCT?

Sure! It would generally happen in "S" mode with just the shifter moved over to the left. I would accelerate like normal then during the 1-2 shift it would lag tremendously as if you were in a MT car and just pushed the clutch in for 2 seconds during the shift. It would just completely fall on its face and then come back to normal almost as if it was running out of fuel. It was most noticeable during 1-2 but I did also notice it during 2-3 a few times. I just got my car back this evening and haven't noticed it since but will report back once more miles have been logged. Dealer said there were multiple codes related to the waterpump when it was scanned.