BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      10-01-2018, 10:11 PM   #1
Gpio430
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Exclamation What else?

Hi guys,

I bought a 2008 135i a couple months ago and started to modify it.

These are the mods so far:

Burger tuning DCI;
Precision Racewerks Ignition system;
NGK spark plug set to 0.22;
JB4 + bluetooth connect kit;
New VANOS Solenoids;
Charge pipe with HKS BOV (to be installed this weekend);
Catless Downpipes (to be installed this weekend).

How much WHP you think I am now (based on your experience) and What else do I need to get close to 450hp?

Thanks much!
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      10-01-2018, 10:24 PM   #2
xQx
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On pump gas, that'll list put you in the vicinity of 380whp.

If you add an intercooler, stage-2 LPFP and 70% E85 you should be around 420 - 435whp (edit: JB4 map 7 w/ E85 BEF).

Add WMI/Meth and a 3.5bar TMAP sensor and you've got yourself 450whp.

Though, for a 'safe and reliable' 450whp you'll want to do away with your stock turbos.

Last edited by xQx; 10-02-2018 at 12:10 AM..
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      10-01-2018, 11:17 PM   #3
Gpio430
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Thanks xQX! I thought I would be on the high 300s!!!

Thanks so much for the advice! I’ll start looking for a new intercooler now!!!!

Cheers
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      10-02-2018, 09:03 PM   #4
Notcompens8ing
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I'd strongly recommend adding a LCD (I suggest Quaife) otherwise there's gonna be a whole lotta wasted power! Enjoy the build!
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      10-02-2018, 09:43 PM   #5
xQx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Notcompens8ing View Post
I'd strongly recommend adding a LCD (I suggest Quaife) otherwise there's gonna be a whole lotta wasted power! Enjoy the build!
typo: Notcompens8ing means Limited Slip Diff (LSD) not LCD.

And yeah, I agree.

If you're just running pump fuel, Rear Sub-frame Bushes and Michelin Pilot Sport 4 S Tires will probably be all you need; but if you're using E85 on public roads, you won't be able to use the extra power until you fork out for a mechanical LSD.
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      10-02-2018, 09:50 PM   #6
Gpio430
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Thanks guys!

So what first? LSD, FMIC, all at the same time? Lol!

Appreciate the help!!
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      10-04-2018, 11:44 PM   #7
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2011 BMW 135i  [7.00]
2016 BMW M3  [0.00]
I would say go for the LSD first.
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2011 135 w/ DCT + Some Things
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      10-28-2018, 12:23 AM   #8
Gpio430
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Hi Guys,

Unfortunately I wasn’t capable of installing the downpipes myself..... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ so I am looking for a mechanic here close to Langley (Vancouver BC).

Do you guys have any suggestions?

Thanks much!
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      10-28-2018, 08:32 AM   #9
mike.dunn17
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Absolute chaos if you want to boost that much power on stock rear sub frame bushings, no LSD on original shocks/spring. CHAOS.

Please don’t be that guy running all engine and no suspension/brakes - balance out the $$.
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      10-30-2018, 12:19 AM   #10
Gpio430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike.dunn17 View Post
Absolute chaos if you want to boost that much power on stock rear sub frame bushings, no LSD on original shocks/spring. CHAOS.

Please don’t be that guy running all engine and no suspension/brakes - balance out the $$.
Totally agree Mike! After taking care of the engine for a bit, I’ll jump on the handling as well as some preventive maintenance so the car gets as reliable as it can get!

On that note, would you guys go for Coilovers or a Suspension Kit such as the Eibach Pro: https://www.partsengine.ca/4041.78-vp-Eibach-383.aspx?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrbXG9oGr3gIVE9lkCh0Gzwl 3EAQYAyABEgI-evD_BwE ?!

Also, any link where I could find the M3 bushing kit for the rear sub frame?

Thanks much!
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      10-30-2018, 05:59 PM   #11
mike.dunn17
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Suspension is your preference - do the research and make your own opinion.

I went with Bilstein b8s paired with Dinan springs. Wasn’t cheap but wanted the best fixed set up vs low/mid coilover. No right or wrong!

M3 control arms are a must. Best upgrade that you can feel daily. TRW is the German brand that actually make them for bmw. Mine showed up with the M logo shaved off lol!! $300 cnd they should run you.

Subframe sucks and is $$ for labour but makes the rear end actually feel like it’s attxched to the car. The stock ones you could twist with tour hands. So cheap!

Good luck and let us know how you make out over time!
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      10-31-2018, 12:30 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike.dunn17 View Post
Subframe sucks and is $$ for labour but makes the rear end actually feel like it’s attxched to the car. The stock ones you could twist with tour hands. So cheap!
Yeah, I have some OEM M3 bushes in the shed that I can't bring myself to sell, but I expect they'll never be installed.

If you go down that route, expect to remove the entire subframe and use a hydraulic press to install them (or pay someone to).

For an easy, cheap DIY, just do the Whiteline RSFB inserts. Google: KDT918
Otherwise, look for the 2-piece aftermarket bushes.
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      10-31-2018, 01:41 PM   #13
asbrr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xQx View Post
Yeah, I have some OEM M3 bushes in the shed that I can't bring myself to sell, but I expect they'll never be installed.

If you go down that route, expect to remove the entire subframe and use a hydraulic press to install them (or pay someone to).

For an easy, cheap DIY, just do the Whiteline RSFB inserts. Google: KDT918
Otherwise, look for the 2-piece aftermarket bushes.
Yes - the KDT917 (2 piece full bushings) are easier to install than M3 bushings. You can probably get away with just cutting out/mutilating the old bushings worst case, and the 2 piece ones go in pretty easy supposedly.

Either way, that is a key weakpoint to address on these cars....I'd recommend go all the way with bushings rather than inserts.
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