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| 06-17-2025, 04:50 PM | #1 |
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18x8.5" ET35 Rubbing in front
I just got new apex ec7's at 18x8.5" and made the mistake of ordering ET35 instead of ET45 running with 225/40/18 in the front.
I'm on a 2013 135i msport suspension, with m3 control arms. Unfortunately it looks like ET35 is causing rubbing on bumps at high speeds. Camber is set to -1.5/-1.8 on the front. Can anyone advise me what to do? Increase camber with camber plates or fender roll? |
| 06-17-2025, 07:38 PM | #2 |
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Drives: 2008 135 blk, blk, step
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You'd have been very close or might have rubbed the strut with et45. First thing I'd try is "pulling the pins" to max out front camber.
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Injen, RR OCC, MadDad Whisper, donut spare, 19x8.5et43fr 19x9.5et45r Volk LE37's, rear fenders rolled/pulled, PSS4S 225/35fr 255/30r, KW V1's, AR coated catless dps, Cross strutbar, CF grills and license plate holder, iCarbon diffuser, ETS black anodized FMIC, M3 control arms, Quaife, ER chargepipe, ForgeDV's, Topspeed Custom Tune, V3sims, Braille, Andrey_GTA rear hub mod, Ebay Mstyle front bumper and performance style side skirts.
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| 06-18-2025, 01:32 AM | #3 |
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Yep, this is 18x8.5 et45 with a 225/40. Camber is certainly the best place to start as I feel like I could easily fit a 10mm spacer (making it et35) at -2.5deg.
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| 06-18-2025, 10:07 AM | #4 |
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I am running the same spec on Arc8 with 235/40R18 and there is no rubbing even on the track, only when I go full lock I can see there is almost contact probably 1 or 2 hair thick space between the tire and the fender liner(specially the right fender with the oil cooler vent) but still no rubbing sound or marks on the fender. I am running m3 front control arms, st coilovers and dinan fixed camber plates set to -2.5 degree on the front
Last edited by Spielmp3206; 06-18-2025 at 11:17 AM.. |
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| 06-21-2025, 02:00 AM | #5 |
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Thanks. Looks like I'm maxed out camber at -1.5 with m3 control arms. I'll try the dinan camber plates next. It also could be that I'm still on the original struts/shocks at 100k miles. The shop recommended I go coilovers, but I'll try the plates first.
What are you all running on the rears? Apex recommended I go 18x9.5" ET58 on the rears and the fronts are definitely looking more aggressive. I was considering adding a 10mm spacer or something. Here's a shot - |
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| 06-25-2025, 10:02 AM | #6 | |
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Quote:
Replace your dampers, they're done at 100k, also do new top hats. I don't like adjustable plates. Camber doesn't ruin tires. -2.5 to -3.5 is fine for street and allows for performance driving too. Rear I am still narrowbody, running EC7 18x9.5 et58 and 275/35/18 MPS4S with a 5mm spacer. 5mm spacer is to save my fuel filler and inner fender from damage. My rear fender lips are rolled pulled and rear lips bumper tabs etc fairly aggressively ground down. I did not need to cut the lips off, that introduces it's own set of problems. No rubbing.
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2010 E82 1 Series M Clone
Hydra Performance augmented OEM+ Last edited by ShocknAwe; 06-25-2025 at 10:08 AM.. |
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| 06-25-2025, 11:38 AM | #7 |
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Agreed of course.
Of note is that this will do 2 things as well that may be beneficial: 1) Less bouncing after hitting a bump, potentially reducing rubbing 2) Adding about 1/2" ride height (the pressure in a new strut is enough to raise a car about 1/2" compared to totally blown struts) |
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ShocknAwe4553.50 |
| 06-25-2025, 11:54 AM | #8 |
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I'll add the caveat that if using 255 width tires and et58 offset you won't need the spacer or fender work. I still recommend rolling the lips if they haven't been done yet the E82 lips are too big and get in the way.
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