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      09-04-2019, 09:57 AM   #1
monstruo
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135i Suspension Upgrades!

I'm planning to do suspension ugrade on my 135i N54 AT [Mileage:117k km/ 72k miles]
Currently it's on some OEM struts and lowering springs. Tires & wheels: 225/35/19 & 255/30/19, front 19" x8.5J ET35 & rear 19x 9.5J ET46. All setups by previous owner.

Thinking of the following:
  • ST XTA coilovers
  • M3/1M Front And Rear Control Arm Upgrade Kit c/w ECS trailing arm
  • OEM 1M Strut Bar Kit
  • Rear Upper And Lower Shock Mount Kit
  • M3 Rear subframe bushing
  • Subframe Mounting Bolts
  • ECS Performance Motor And Transmission Mount Kit - Street
  • Front 28mm & Rear 15mm Sway Bar Kit
  • Meyle HD Tie Rods
  • Whiteline Rear Trailing Arm Polyurethane Bushing Set
  • Rogue Engineering E9X Toe Arms (Non-M)

Will be adding M factory LSD 3.46 as well. Maybe APEX 18" wheels if budget allows..

Notes:
Struts are way overdue. It's very floaty and not taking bumps well. Fender rub after I replaced with MPSS4s especially on the rear.

Intent:
Overhaul all suspension componments. Keep it well for next 50k miles. It's my dd and will be tracking it.


Would like to hear some advice from you guys!. Let me know if i'm missing out anything.
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      09-05-2019, 10:33 PM   #2
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Camber plates?
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      09-05-2019, 11:58 PM   #3
monstruo
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I believe ST XTA comes with built-in camber plate for the front.
Any thoughts for the rear?
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      09-11-2019, 07:01 PM   #4
HP Autosport
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monstruo View Post
I believe ST XTA comes with built-in camber plate for the front.
Any thoughts for the rear?
Replace the upper and lower mounts as required. You should be able to plenty of camber with the OEM eccentric bolts. If you run out of adjustment or if the suspension is binding, you will need adjustable toe arms to free up the bind.
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      09-14-2019, 11:40 AM   #5
monstruo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
Replace the upper and lower mounts as required. You should be able to plenty of camber with the OEM eccentric bolts. If you run out of adjustment or if the suspension is binding, you will need adjustable toe arms to free up the bind.
Thanks! Noted on that.

Anyway, someone offers me to buy KW Clubsport coilovers. Exact mileage unknown but it's 4 years old and serviced twice. Should I even consider?
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      09-16-2019, 02:52 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monstruo View Post
Thanks! Noted on that.

Anyway, someone offers me to buy KW Clubsport coilovers. Exact mileage unknown but it's 4 years old and serviced twice. Should I even consider?
4 years and serviced twice? What was the reason for the services? Seems too frequent for normal wear and tear.
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      09-18-2019, 10:12 AM   #7
monstruo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
4 years and serviced twice? What was the reason for the services? Seems too frequent for normal wear and tear.
The seller didn't go into details but i do know she used it mainly for drag racing.
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      05-18-2020, 04:07 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monstruo View Post
I'm planning to do suspension ugrade on my 135i N54 AT [Mileage:117k km/ 72k miles]
Currently it's on some OEM struts and lowering springs. Tires & wheels: 225/35/19 & 255/30/19, front 19" x8.5J ET35 & rear 19x 9.5J ET46. All setups by previous owner.

Thinking of the following:
  • ST XTA coilovers
  • M3/1M Front And Rear Control Arm Upgrade Kit c/w ECS trailing arm
  • OEM 1M Strut Bar Kit
  • Rear Upper And Lower Shock Mount Kit
  • M3 Rear subframe bushing
  • Subframe Mounting Bolts
  • ECS Performance Motor And Transmission Mount Kit - Street
  • Front 28mm & Rear 15mm Sway Bar Kit
  • Meyle HD Tie Rods
  • Whiteline Rear Trailing Arm Polyurethane Bushing Set
  • Rogue Engineering E9X Toe Arms (Non-M)

Will be adding M factory LSD 3.46 as well. Maybe APEX 18" wheels if budget allows..

Notes:
Struts are way overdue. It's very floaty and not taking bumps well. Fender rub after I replaced with MPSS4s especially on the rear.

Intent:
Overhaul all suspension componments. Keep it well for next 50k miles. It's my dd and will be tracking it.


Would like to hear some advice from you guys!. Let me know if i'm missing out anything.
You end up doing this set up? I'm at 127k and looking to overhaul the suspension. Was looking literally looking at almost the exact same set up. How did it come out? Anyone please chime in on if you had to do a suspension overhaul for 130k, what would you do.
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      05-18-2020, 08:57 PM   #9
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I would take a close look at engine, transmission, and diff mounts at that mileage. Might as well also re-build your shifter with new bushings etc (oem or other).

Car will feel fresh as ever after all that.
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      05-23-2020, 08:46 AM   #10
monstruo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wantmymoneyincash View Post
You end up doing this set up? I'm at 127k and looking to overhaul the suspension. Was looking literally looking at almost the exact same set up. How did it come out? Anyone please chime in on if you had to do a suspension overhaul for 130k, what would you do.
I did the overhaul. The car feels so much better at corners, no more mushy rolls, and even on straight you feel more planted. In a nut shell, it's a different car, LOL. Btw, DSC doesn't kick in anymore when you WOT on dry surfaces. It's not cheap when compare to power mods but i'll definitely recommend you to do so if budget allows. FYI, i also replaced my engine mounts (OEM), trans mount (UUC blue), diff mounts (1M) at the same time.

Also, the rear M3 control arms doesn't make a big difference unless you replacing for wear&tear then go ahead. Otherwise, I'll opt for SPL rear control arms to have more adjustment. As of now, my front camber sits at -3.0 and rear at -2.3. Next on my list is wheels and tires. Trying to fit a 255/275 tire setup and it's really a headache unless I decide to do a 1M conversion.

Last edited by monstruo; 05-23-2020 at 09:03 AM..
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      05-23-2020, 03:25 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monstruo View Post
I did the overhaul. The car feels so much better at corners, no more mushy rolls, and even on straight you feel more planted. In a nut shell, it's a different car, LOL. Btw, DSC doesn't kick in anymore when you WOT on dry surfaces. It's not cheap when compare to power mods but i'll definitely recommend you to do so if budget allows. FYI, i also replaced my engine mounts (OEM), trans mount (UUC blue), diff mounts (1M) at the same time.

Also, the rear M3 control arms doesn't make a big difference unless you replacing for wear&tear then go ahead. Otherwise, I'll opt for SPL rear control arms to have more adjustment. As of now, my front camber sits at -3.0 and rear at -2.3. Next on my list is wheels and tires. Trying to fit a 255/275 tire setup and it's really a headache unless I decide to do a 1M conversion.
I'd just go ahead and do the 1M front end. 275/35/18 square is a dream.

Additionally, where the benefits shine are the coilover options available when doing the full M arm and knuckle setup. Otherwise, its only really the guide arm and toe arms which are different in the rear. The toe doesn't fit, so have to go aftermarket/custom there.
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      05-26-2020, 12:41 AM   #12
monstruo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
I'd just go ahead and do the 1M front end. 275/35/18 square is a dream.

Additionally, where the benefits shine are the coilover options available when doing the full M arm and knuckle setup. Otherwise, its only really the guide arm and toe arms which are different in the rear. The toe doesn't fit, so have to go aftermarket/custom there.
Saw your build thread. You're running APEX EC-7 Anthracite Wheels - 18x9.5 et 22 Front, 18x9.5 et 58 Rear / Michelin Pilot Sport 4S Tires - 275/35/18 Square, i reckon there's zero rub in general? What mods did you do on your end to fit those setup?
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      05-26-2020, 10:19 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monstruo View Post
Saw your build thread. You're running APEX EC-7 Anthracite Wheels - 18x9.5 et 22 Front, 18x9.5 et 58 Rear / Michelin Pilot Sport 4S Tires - 275/35/18 Square, i reckon there's zero rub in general? What mods did you do on your end to fit those setup?
Zero fender rub. Genuine BMW 1M front parts.

Rubs the filler neck a bit in the rear. I have massively rolled/pulled and cut the rear fender lips and bumper tabs so I'm in the process of spacing things out a bit, thinking 10mm rear (for function) and 5mm front (to even it out visually again).

Mods I've done are substantial, but the setup should fit with stock everything other than the 1M front which is obviously required.

Cheers.
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      05-26-2020, 08:25 PM   #14
monstruo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
Zero fender rub. Genuine BMW 1M front parts.

Rubs the filler neck a bit in the rear. I have massively rolled/pulled and cut the rear fender lips and bumper tabs so I'm in the process of spacing things out a bit, thinking 10mm rear (for function) and 5mm front (to even it out visually again).

Mods I've done are substantial, but the setup should fit with stock everything other than the 1M front which is obviously required.

Cheers.
Thanks for the insight. I'll probably cut/ trim/ roll on the rear as well once my custom wheels are ready. Planing to go with 18" 245/275 with stock 135i fender. Let's see how it goes.
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