What did you do to/for your 1er today?

[parameter416]

Originally Posted by parameter416

At Time 6:50 this YouTube video shows how to remove the old trunk light and install the new one.

In that video, he's installing new LED bulbs in the existing module. If you're getting the kit from BMW it's even easier: once you've pulled out the old module, just unplug it and plug in the new one.

[fotontom]

[QUOTE=zx10guy;30959015]Did an engine bay cleaning. Found a video about this product called P21S. It showed how with little effort you can get pretty good results. I tried hand cleaning the engine bay of my 1er a little bit and stopped after realizing the amount of effort needed to get decent results.

I can say this product is pretty amazing as all I did was cover the alternator and spray the stuff all over the engine bay letting it soak for 30 minutes before rinsing things down with a hose. I used the shower setting of my hose nozzle and an air chock off of my air compressor to blow off the excess water. I then ran the engine for a bit to have engine heat take care of the rest.

Because I did attempt an engine bay cleaning of my 1er, the results were not as dramatic as they were with my Toyota daily beater which I'm also including pics of.

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Looks great! Thanks for the tip!

[19Neil]

Had my mechanic do a PPI, and reported the MRS and FRM errors below.

Turns out the shady dealer disabled the passenger airbag warning. I have a replacement new passenger seatbelt receiver, and am hoping that might be part of it.. The existing button is cracked and the buckle doesn't always seem to click in place well. I suspect someone tipped over a drink...which may also have affected the seat occupancy sensor. So, seat belt receiver first and go from there.

FRM. The PO put LED bulbs in the halogens, I see them flicker at start up, they're awesomely bright, but yes, I get flashed. I'm going to swap back to regular bulbs and see if that helps with FRM codes.

I have a tail light out, but that could be the assembly or the wiring, as new bulbs don't work. I have a set of blackline tails ready to go in, so we'll see if that clears any codes.

Other than that, and the rusty axle nuts, car passed with a clean bill of health. Time to get her on a maintenance schedule. 99k so about to spend some money. 👍

[Hellshalfacre]

Today I did a new battery, VCG, Valavetronic motor and eccentric shaft seals, new coils and plugs on my 2011 e88 at 96k. Got everything back together and remembered that I didn't reconnect the breather hose. Awesome. Corrected that and then spent the next 20 minutes burning off all the oil I spilled on the exhaust at high speed. Couldn't believe how clean the top end was at 96k. Serp, tensioner and idler, and oil filter housing gasket tomorrow God willing.

[Fishee]

Originally Posted by Hellshalfacre

Today I did a new battery, VCG, Valavetronic motor and eccentric shaft seals, new coils and plugs on my 2011 e88 at 96k. Got everything back together and remembered that I didn't reconnect the breather hose. Awesome. Corrected that and then spent the next 20 minutes burning off all the oil I spilled on the exhaust at high speed. Couldn't believe how clean the top end was at 96k. Serp, tensioner and idler, and oil filter housing gasket tomorrow God willing.

VCG is a lengthy job. Just did mine.
GL with the OFHG and pulley work, post pics.

[Donkeyshins]

Originally Posted by Hellshalfacre

Today I did a new battery, VCG, Valavetronic motor and eccentric shaft seals, new coils and plugs on my 2011 e88 at 96k. Got everything back together and remembered that I didn't reconnect the breather hose. Awesome. Corrected that and then spent the next 20 minutes burning off all the oil I spilled on the exhaust at high speed. Couldn't believe how clean the top end was at 96k. Serp, tensioner and idler, and oil filter housing gasket tomorrow God willing.

I need to find a day where I can work undisturbed so I can swap out my OFH for an OFH + oil/water cooler and replace the belt, tensioner, and idler. Also have a Malo plate inbound for the front main seal, so I'll probably just do all of that at the same time.

[Hellshalfacre]

It is indeed a lengthy job Fishee. Took me 5 hrs soup to nuts. Today I tackled the oil filter housing gasket, serp belt, tensioner and idler. Wanted just a little more room so I removed the fan...and promptly broke the nipple off the upper rad hose. Sent the wife to the parts desk for a new hose and while wrestling the old hose off, I snapped the upper rad connection off. Yay.
New rad is inbound but I got everything else done and cleaned the front of the engine which desperately needed it. Wife has to park her x3 outside while the e88 is in drydock. She's not to stoked about that. Other than that, not a bad day.

[Fishee]

Originally Posted by Hellshalfacre

It is indeed a lengthy job Fishee. Took me 5 hrs soup to nuts. Today I tackled the oil filter housing gasket, serp belt, tensioner and idler. Wanted just a little more room so I removed the fan...and promptly broke the nipple off the upper rad hose. Sent the wife to the parts desk for a new hose and while wrestling the old hose off, I snapped the upper rad connection off. Yay.
New rad is inbound but I got everything else done and cleaned the front of the engine which desperately needed it. Wife has to park her x3 outside while the e88 is in drydock. She's not to stoked about that. Other than that, not a bad day.

Tips on idler and belt?
Plan to buy the conti kit for a bit of spring preventative maint.

[Hellshalfacre]

It's really quite easy. I went with the FCP euro kit with genuine BMW belt. The tensioner and idler are INA brand which I've had good luck with in the past. You will need a T60 socket for the tensioner. No need to remove the fan unless you want to test the structural integrity of your upper rad hose.
Torque specs are:
Idler- 40nm
Tensioner- 25nm plus 90degrees. The kit comes with new bolts.

[tracer bullet]

Originally Posted by Hellshalfacre

It's really quite easy. I went with the FCP euro kit with genuine BMW belt. The tensioner and idler are INA brand which I've had good luck with in the past. You will need a T60 socket for the tensioner. No need to remove the fan unless you want to test the structural integrity of your upper rad hose.
Torque specs are:
Idler- 40nm
Tensioner- 25nm plus 90degrees. The kit comes with new bolts.

I'm not saying you're wrong, but anyone doing this might look into the torque specs. I went with 40nM for the tensioner and 60nM for the idler. This was from a few sources and I also remember that I went to the BMW TIS site that I paid for a day access too (also grabbed specs for the brakes, struts, water pump and some other stuff like that).

That's from my notes anyhow... I could be the one who is wrong as well so I just suggest someone do their homework and be sure. There's a chance that N52 / N54 / N55 have different values as well.

There are some good DIY's out there. Example, but not the only one: (hmm, link is being nixxed by the site so do an internet search for "Belt tensioner jiggle – Detailed belt tensioner replacement DIY")

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by Hellshalfacre

It is indeed a lengthy job Fishee. Took me 5 hrs soup to nuts. Today I tackled the oil filter housing gasket, serp belt, tensioner and idler. Wanted just a little more room so I removed the fan...and promptly broke the nipple off the upper rad hose. Sent the wife to the parts desk for a new hose and while wrestling the old hose off, I snapped the upper rad connection off. Yay.
New rad is inbound but I got everything else done and cleaned the front of the engine which desperately needed it. Wife has to park her x3 outside while the e88 is in drydock. She's not to stoked about that. Other than that, not a bad day.

I feel your pain 😂 Don’t you hate it when you are trying to fix something and break another? Is your engine N52 or N54? I replaced my tensioner and OFH on my N52 I did not remove the fan to avoid more problems. And yeah E88 dont like the rain or be outside. ☝️😏

[Hellshalfacre]

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

I'm not saying you're wrong, but anyone doing this might look into the torque specs. I went with 40nM for the tensioner and 60nM for the idler. This was from a few sources and I also remember that I went to the BMW TIS site that I paid for a day access too (also grabbed specs for the brakes, struts, water pump and some other stuff like that).

That's from my notes anyhow... I could be the one who is wrong as well so I just suggest someone do their homework and be sure. There's a chance that N52 / N54 / N55 have different values as well.

There are some good DIY's out there. Example, but not the only one: (hmm, link is being nixxed by the site so do an internet search for "Belt tensioner jiggle – Detailed belt tensioner replacement DIY")

Hi Tracer, I got the torque specs from FCPs site. 60 NM would be quite high, almost 45 lb-ft going into the aluminum casting of the alternator.
Although with the additional 90 degrees I could see the tensioner ending up near 40nm. I encourage anyone doing this job to do their own research.

Here's the FCP instruction. https://blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-repl...lus%2090%C2%B0

[Hellshalfacre]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

I feel your pain 😂 Don’t you hate it when you are trying to fix something and break another? Is your engine N52 or N54? I replaced my tensioner and OFH on my N52 I did not remove the fan to avoid more problems. And yeah E88 dont like the rain or be outside. ☝️😏

Yeah, it doesn't stop. It was the original Rad and hose so it was overdue, and as always when these kind of frustrations pop up during maintenance, I figure better in the garage than on the road. But still a bummer. I'm going with Nissens for the rad. Just replaced the wife's rad with Nissens and it was a perfect fit, good quality (notwithstanding the general plasticity of these units.) Mine's an N52. Great engine, needs just a bit more love than most.

[Hellshalfacre]

Speaking of not stopping...I just found the "head bolt" sheared off next to the OFH. Terrific...It's somehow not leaking though which doesn't make sense to me. Then again, using aluminum fasteners for high-ish torque applications doesn't make sense to me either. Looks like it's back to the parts desk. I should get a free hat or a beer coozy or something at this point, right?

On the sheared "head bolt" front: best I can tell, these aluminum E-torx bolts (4 ea, 3 long, 1 short. 1 external to the VC, and 3 under the cover) appear to fasten the head to the timing cover part of the block (fwd) rather than the area of the block deck interfacing with the business end of combustion. I'm sure this is covered elsewhere in the forum, but how this isn't profusely leaking oil is beyond me. Anyhoo, looks like intake manifold off and left-handed drill bits are the order of the day. What could go wrong?

[Almuliman]

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

I'm not saying you're wrong, but anyone doing this might look into the torque specs. I went with 40nM for the tensioner and 60nM for the idler. This was from a few sources and I also remember that I went to the BMW TIS site that I paid for a day access too (also grabbed specs for the brakes, struts, water pump and some other stuff like that).

From the service manual:

3AZ Belt pulley / vibration damper to hub
(lots of other engines...)
All / others
M8
22 Nm

1AZ Belt tensioner to engine block N51
M11x65
Jointing torque: 25 Nm

2AZ Deflection N51
M10x40
40 Nm
Torque angle 90 °

[Hellshalfacre]

Originally Posted by Almuliman

From the service manual:

3AZ Belt pulley / vibration damper to hub
(lots of other engines...)
All / others
M8
22 Nm

1AZ Belt tensioner to engine block N51
M11x65
Jointing torque: 25 Nm

2AZ Deflection N51
M10x40
40 Nm
Torque angle 90 °

Thanks Almuliman. I just measured the old bolts. The aluminum tensioner bolt is indeed M11X65. The FCP Euro guide calls for an additional 90 past the 25nm in the service manual. It is a torque to yield bolt so I would think the additional angle would be necessary as with any stretch-bolt. Possibly an updated torque spec?

The idler bolt measures M10X45 and is grade 10.9 steel. 40nm plus 90 on a hardened steel fastener into a cast aluminum case seems dangerously excessive to me. I think I'll stick with what the kit recommends and give both bolts a check after a short run. Thanks again for posting the specs from the manual.

[tracer bullet]

Originally Posted by Hellshalfacre

Possibly an updated torque spec?

It could be. The bolt material may have changed, and it may be engine dependent. I notice that the values are all over the place and they are all M10 bolts listed, but the thread pitches are different so that could be a big part of it - finer is less, course more? And you mentioned an M11 bolt? The info I saw said they're all M10. Confusing to say the least.

I've seen it in N55 TIS screenshots and as mentioned looked it up for my car as well, and saw 60nM for my year N55. I went with it, apparently successfully.

So - who knows. Everyone do their own research! If you pay for TIS for a day it's kind of worth it, you can go grab anything and everything you ever think you'll need.

[Almuliman]

Originally Posted by Hellshalfacre

Thanks Almuliman. I just measured the old bolts. The aluminum tensioner bolt is indeed M11X65. The FCP Euro guide calls for an additional 90 past the 25nm in the service manual. It is a torque to yield bolt so I would think the additional angle would be necessary as with any stretch-bolt. Possibly an updated torque spec?

The idler bolt measures M10X45 and is grade 10.9 steel. 40nm plus 90 on a hardened steel fastener into a cast aluminum case seems dangerously excessive to me. I think I'll stick with what the kit recommends and give both bolts a check after a short run. Thanks again for posting the specs from the manual.

Reasonable, I think. Are you in a 135 or 128? Coule well be the difference, I suspect...

[Hellshalfacre]

128 here. Bought it for my daughter with the idea that I could show her a few things about auto maintenance by tackling the 100k mile maintenance items together, but I seem to be under the car by myself a lot...

[Finneganistan]

Stage One achieved! Definitely a nice boost in power, and an improvement in throttle response. Stage One only exists to lure you into Stage Two.

[scratchgolf135]

Finally got the EOS fuel system in the tank. Just waiting on fresh lock rings.

[hunginator]

Car is now around 180,000 kms or almost 112,000 miles and running strong!

Recently, brought my car to a shop to perform a brake job/service; brake fluid flush, new pads (EBC Red Stuff), and new rotors (OE Zimmerman).

Question... I've only driven a few miles so far, and on my passenger rear, it looks like the area closest to the centre is developing a streak. Could this be that the pad is touching that area when not applying brakes? Is this something I should be worried about?

Thanks in advance for all of your opinions. From a mechanical perspective, I'm a noob.