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05-08-2012, 12:11 PM | #23 |
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Did you buy it from this web-site:
http://hardbrakes.com/index.php?main...products_id=92 They only have front, what happen to the rear?
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7/08 135 Coupe, Crimson Red, 6 SP, Sport, Taupe Lette/Aluminum. Performance Mods: JB4 on Map 5, BMS DP Fix V3, Injen polished intake, AR Catless DP, Maddad resonated mid-pipes, aFe exhaust polished tips, ST Suspension Coil Over and Hotchkis front sway bar. Others: BMS OCC, BT Scanner, Mud Flap. Next Mods: AA Front Strut Brace.
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04-08-2015, 02:28 PM | #25 |
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Did anybody get a fix for this? I'm running the Hawk HPS pads too and also getting the clunk whenever I switch between reversing and going forwards. I switched over all backing plates etc.
Other than the noise is there anything to worry about with them moving? Wouldn't want them damaging the calipers or anything like that. I swear they even clunk if I go over an abrupt bump in the road. (Something back there does.) Oh, and on that note, it only seems to be the rears making a noise. Though I understand the direction of sounds can be hard to judge in a car. |
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04-13-2015, 08:12 PM | #26 |
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I found that clunking racing pads are usually related to the more agressive pads that designed to be smaller in size, to compensate for heat expansion. What happens then is that they move around in the caliper when cold, over bumps, or when driving forward or in reverse for the first time.
My solution was to use BMW brake pad backing plates from an old worn out set, and fit them over the more agressive pads. This works for street and the track. Problem solved!
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2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts
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04-14-2015, 06:45 AM | #27 |
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Is this for the fronts or rears? Typically I held onto my old ones for ages, then threw then out recently. Argh!
I just can't think which bits you were removing from the old ones though. The backing on the fronts was part of the pad from what I remember. Or do you mean the shims on the rears? |
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04-14-2015, 07:24 AM | #28 | |
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In addition to above, I use Hardbrakes.com 0.5mm Ti heat shields between the track pad, and the OE shim. My justification is to avoid the rattling , and isolate the weak 135i caliper pistons, hubs, and fluid from extreme heat. It works fine for me.
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2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts
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04-14-2015, 07:30 AM | #30 |
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Try to get a an old set of pads from a member disposing their street pads. Maybe even a scrap yard/recycler ...
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2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts
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04-14-2015, 07:40 AM | #32 | |
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So instead for my track pads I made a custom stainless shims (waterjet cut out of 0.040" stainless). That is twice as thick as the OE shim so I only wrap it around one end of the pad to take up the gap (the side that normally sees thrust under forward braking - the top), otherwise the pad would jam in the caliper. Up front I have a Ti shim between the pad and my shim. I figure the thicker stainless shim further improves heat isolation of the pad from the rotor. It works pretty well. When the pads are brand new this shim combination does make the pads a bit tighter fit to install on a new rotor, but they do fit if the pistons are fully retracted. |
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04-14-2015, 08:12 AM | #34 | |
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I didn't make provision for the brake wear sensor because I don't use them If there was a critical mass of interest I would be happy to make up a few more sets. I think they cost me about $200 for a full set (front plus rear). They get pretty hot on the track and the paint on the pad backing plate melts and/or burns away. Next time I install new track pads I will likely sand or sandblast the back of the backing plates before using them to get rid of the paint and the subsequent mess. |
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04-14-2015, 08:59 AM | #35 |
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Thanks for the info. Not a cheap job then! Did you have the shape on the computer at all? With the OEM thickness metal you could probably cut them with tin snips!
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05-27-2015, 02:16 PM | #36 |
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You should make these backing plates and sell them. I think a lot of us would love to have new backing plates everytime we change brake pads
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