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      03-06-2024, 10:08 AM   #1
rexlex
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Wheel and Tire Fitment issues due to worn suspension?

I recently purchased a 2012 135i e88 and immediately bought some Apex Arc-8s 17x8.5" ET 40 with 235/45-17 tires (Nitto NT555 G2s) and I have been having rubbing issues when spirited driving and large dips/bumps, mainly in the front. I proceeded to roll my fenders to reduce the rubbing and it helped but its still there. I think my problem is just worn m sport suspension. My plan is to go ahead and do the 1M/M3 front and rear control arm upgrade to get some added camber, but I am struggling on what I should do via shocks/springs.

This car is my DD and I really drive it hard on the weekend with my euro club on small town backroads. I would ideally like to keep it at stock ride height unless I could be certain to remove rubbing while lowered First thought was a coilover setup but I'm afraid I'll have clearance issues on in the front as my current fitment is already tight, and I rather not drop major cash on a setup that isn't needed. I hink I am leaning towards just replacing the struts for sure and possibly springs if needed.

Looking for options on what would give me the best bang for the buck to reduce that suspension travel to fix my rubbing issues while also giving me more performance on those spirited drives.
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      03-06-2024, 11:16 AM   #2
jsigone
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There are few places it might rub. Inside tire wall to strut, fender, front bumper mount tabs. the NT555 have more square corners, aka wider contact patch, you may rub all three under compression while turning

add 5mm or up to 8mm spacer to the front, this will clear the OEM struts better. You may need to roll front fenders plus trim the bumper mount tabs a bit. Don't over do it on the trimming. Camber will help the last two on the list. $50 amazon fender roller is fine for the front job.

This photo is with my 255 yokohama tires and RPF1, same specs as your Apex and 5mm spacer, I'm running square setup with ST XTA coilovers.

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      03-06-2024, 11:32 AM   #3
rexlex
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I am definitely rubbing in the front fender well while under full compression, and I can see that the bumper tab has chewed a bit of my front tires as well. I have already rolled fenders on all 4 corners and trimmed the tabs as much as I couled without complete removal. I dont have any strut rub but I can tell the clearance is tight. I was afraid if I add spacers that I would have worse rubbing on the outside as the fitment is already quite aggressive, maybe I'll try that, I know some camber would help but not looking to chew through tires either. When its time to replace the Nittos I'll have to find something that is a little less square to help with the fitment if I don't fix via suspension changes.

Regardless of fitment issues I know its about time to refresh the suspension as I am noticing more and more "floatiness" in the handling. With only 58K I thought I had more miles but it seems that is not the case.
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      03-06-2024, 12:00 PM   #4
jsigone
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when in doubt add more camber haha I'm at -3 up front, I have M arms but haven't installed yet.

wearing tires is part of the game, at least these smaller sizes are cheap especially since you're on 17's.
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      03-06-2024, 12:22 PM   #5
Eyeman
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The stock suspension on these cars is floaty, so yours is probably not that much worse.

This site was very active with modders back around 2010. Many used lowering springs or coilovers to get a better "stance". When you go lower you'll gain some camber, but generally more rubbing just because you are closer to the fenders.

The simplest fix that might be an option for you is "pulling your pins" on your front struts. If your pins have not been pulled you should be able to gain as much camber from this as from the M control arms. Some rub more, some less with the control arms.

For sure 8.5" wheels with et40 are aggressive. Most of us (my stats are in my signature) had wheels in this range. Like you said, spacers will make it worse, you only want to use them if rubbing the strut.

I agree, with an 10+ year old car that you want to refresh, why not rework the suspension. I've been reasonably satisfied with my setup but I wish I had went substantially stiffer and had did the subframe bushing while doing all the work. I'll probably go through and do both in the next few years. My car is in the 140k mile range now. I think the regular seller here that is most suspension savvy was HPA Autosport or something like that. They were always recommending stiff Swift springs and other components.

If you pull your pins but plan other work later, I'd not worry about a new alignment. That is the struggle especially if you go with adjustable coilovers, getting everything aligned and somewhat corner balanced etc. You'll also struggle with alignment shops if they are not mod savvy. Toe in combination with camber is what really eats up tires, so you want to stay on the low end or even a tad lower than the recommended toe settings. I have 2 deg or front and rear camber and both my front and rear tires wear out similar at like 30k miles.

Good luck, there should be plenty of old threads where you can read more.
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      03-06-2024, 12:43 PM   #6
rexlex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eyeman View Post
The stock suspension on these cars is floaty, so yours is probably not that much worse.

This site was very active with modders back around 2010. Many used lowering springs or coilovers to get a better "stance". When you go lower you'll gain some camber, but generally more rubbing just because you are closer to the fenders.

The simplest fix that might be an option for you is "pulling your pins" on your front struts. If your pins have not been pulled you should be able to gain as much camber from this as from the M control arms. Some rub more, some less with the control arms.

For sure 8.5" wheels with et40 are aggressive. Most of us (my stats are in my signature) had wheels in this range. Like you said, spacers will make it worse, you only want to use them if rubbing the strut.

I agree, with an 10+ year old car that you want to refresh, why not rework the suspension. I've been reasonably satisfied with my setup but I wish I had went substantially stiffer and had did the subframe bushing while doing all the work. I'll probably go through and do both in the next few years. My car is in the 140k mile range now. I think the regular seller here that is most suspension savvy was HPA Autosport or something like that. They were always recommending stiff Swift springs and other components.

If you pull your pins but plan other work later, I'd not worry about a new alignment. That is the struggle especially if you go with adjustable coilovers, getting everything aligned and somewhat corner balanced etc. You'll also struggle with alignment shops if they are not mod savvy. Toe in combination with camber is what really eats up tires, so you want to stay on the low end or even a tad lower than the recommended toe settings. I have 2 deg or front and rear camber and both my front and rear tires wear out similar at like 30k miles.

Good luck, there should be plenty of old threads where you can read more.
I'll have to look into pulling the pins, its something I've heard mentioned but never looked into. If that works then I may leave for the season and save some cash to dump into a full suspension rework, that way I'm not making any compromises.
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