BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      06-13-2018, 11:11 PM   #1
Booey1979
Private First Class
4
Rep
126
Posts

Drives: 2010 128i m-sport BBK 2piece
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Ventura, Ca

iTrader: (0)

Suspension woes. Is this normal? You can move this part while itís screwwd in...

So check this YouTube video out.

I just shot it. Can anyone confirm if this is normal? When I drive my car and I hit a bump I hear a rattle. this is after I installed my front suspension (springs and shocks) Iím thinking this part was damaged but then again Iím not sure if this was present or not.

Last edited by Booey1979; 06-14-2018 at 01:26 AM..
Appreciate 0
      06-14-2018, 07:27 AM   #2
02Pilot
Malcontent
02Pilot's Avatar
178
Rep
296
Posts

Drives: 128i
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: NY

iTrader: (0)

Sway bar end link with loose ball joints. Very common, but also very cheap and easy to replace. Do that.
__________________
Life's tough. It's tougher when you're stupid. -John Wayne
Appreciate 0
      06-14-2018, 10:13 AM   #3
Booey1979
Private First Class
4
Rep
126
Posts

Drives: 2010 128i m-sport BBK 2piece
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Ventura, Ca

iTrader: (0)

Interesting. It was fine before I replaced my suspension. Why would it suddenly go bad when I removed the nut at the top in order to replace the strut/shocks? Anyone know of a place to buy this end link?
Appreciate 0
      06-14-2018, 11:06 AM   #4
gjm120
Lieutenant Colonel
United_States
980
Rep
1,742
Posts

Drives: 2013 128i
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: East Texas

iTrader: (0)

Do you have the end links torqued on correctly? If I recall correctly, you have to counterhold the link to get it tight initially then it will torque down. Look up the specs to be sure, but, I think the end link to the strut is 43 ft-lb. Not at all sure about the end link to the stabiliser bar.
__________________
E82 / Ver Red / Blk Boston L / BMWP Springs w/ Koni Yellows / M front control arms / M rear guide rods / AT / Sport seats & steering wheel + paddles
Appreciate 0
      06-14-2018, 11:38 AM   #5
02Pilot
Malcontent
02Pilot's Avatar
178
Rep
296
Posts

Drives: 128i
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: NY

iTrader: (0)

It's old. Removing it may or may not have exacerbated the issue, but at eight years it's likely they were at the end of their service life anyway. Any BMW parts supplier will have piles of them available.
__________________
Life's tough. It's tougher when you're stupid. -John Wayne
Appreciate 0
      06-14-2018, 11:59 AM   #6
Booey1979
Private First Class
4
Rep
126
Posts

Drives: 2010 128i m-sport BBK 2piece
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Ventura, Ca

iTrader: (0)

Ya I torque it using a wrench to hold one end.

I guess Iíll change it. It canít be any worse then when I had to remove the struts.
Appreciate 0
      06-14-2018, 12:04 PM   #7
jcrane82
Trust me....I'm an engineer
jcrane82's Avatar
79
Rep
91
Posts

Drives: 128i 6MT Sport, E36 M3 Sedan
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Elkhorn, WI

iTrader: (0)

They are Heim Joints, so the rotating is normal. You just don't want radial play in the joints.

Is there radial play in the joints, or is it just the "rotating" that you noticed?
Appreciate 0
      06-14-2018, 12:49 PM   #8
gjm120
Lieutenant Colonel
United_States
980
Rep
1,742
Posts

Drives: 2013 128i
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: East Texas

iTrader: (0)

Heim joints - new one for me. Thanks.
I knew there had to be some articulation allowed.
__________________
E82 / Ver Red / Blk Boston L / BMWP Springs w/ Koni Yellows / M front control arms / M rear guide rods / AT / Sport seats & steering wheel + paddles
Appreciate 0
      06-14-2018, 01:06 PM   #9
02Pilot
Malcontent
02Pilot's Avatar
178
Rep
296
Posts

Drives: 128i
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: NY

iTrader: (0)

Yes, the ball has to be able to rotate in the cup, but in my experience if you can easily move the link there's enough play to cause rattling, even if you can't detect any.

It's two nuts per side with nothing else to be removed except the wheel. Doing both shouldn't take more than 15 minutes, assuming you have the right tools. FYI, thin cone wrenches for bicycle hubs work great for holding the ball joints in place.
__________________
Life's tough. It's tougher when you're stupid. -John Wayne
Appreciate 0
      06-14-2018, 01:29 PM   #10
jcrane82
Trust me....I'm an engineer
jcrane82's Avatar
79
Rep
91
Posts

Drives: 128i 6MT Sport, E36 M3 Sedan
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Elkhorn, WI

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 02Pilot View Post
Yes, the ball has to be able to rotate in the cup, but in my experience if you can easily move the link there's enough play to cause rattling, even if you can't detect any.
The force required to rotate the link also depends on if the anti-roll bar is being loaded right/left. For example, if you jack up just one side of the car and remove the wheel, the anti-roll bar is loaded since the right wheel travel doesn't match the left wheel travel. If you have the full front end on jack stands, then the anti-roll bar isn't loaded and therefore the link isn't loaded.

If the front end of the car was on jack stands during the video, the rotation of the link might be normal in the unloaded state. The OP also didn't answer my previous question about radial play at the joints of the link.
Appreciate 0
      06-14-2018, 02:01 PM   #11
Booey1979
Private First Class
4
Rep
126
Posts

Drives: 2010 128i m-sport BBK 2piece
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Ventura, Ca

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcrane82 View Post
They are Heim Joints, so the rotating is normal. You just don't want radial play in the joints.

Is there radial play in the joints, or is it just the "rotating" that you noticed?
What does radial play mean (talk to me like a 2yr old).
Appreciate 0
      06-14-2018, 02:02 PM   #12
Booey1979
Private First Class
4
Rep
126
Posts

Drives: 2010 128i m-sport BBK 2piece
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Ventura, Ca

iTrader: (0)

Iíll check it out this weekend and update the thread. I appreciate the info guys. I changed the fronts and to drive it and make the car worst is super frustrating but at least I have a lead. The rotating is pretty easy to do. Thereís no resistance at all which leads me to the cause of the clunk when I hit changes on the road.
Appreciate 0
      06-14-2018, 02:30 PM   #13
02Pilot
Malcontent
02Pilot's Avatar
178
Rep
296
Posts

Drives: 128i
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: NY

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcrane82 View Post
The force required to rotate the link also depends on if the anti-roll bar is being loaded right/left. For example, if you jack up just one side of the car and remove the wheel, the anti-roll bar is loaded since the right wheel travel doesn't match the left wheel travel. If you have the full front end on jack stands, then the anti-roll bar isn't loaded and therefore the link isn't loaded.

If the front end of the car was on jack stands during the video, the rotation of the link might be normal in the unloaded state. The OP also didn't answer my previous question about radial play at the joints of the link.
Easy movement of those ball joints is not normal unloaded. Take a new piece and try to rotate the ball joint and you'll see that there is significant resistance.

Felt play or not, when these things get loose enough to rotate easily (which they do fairly frequently on most modern BMWs) they cause rattles.
__________________
Life's tough. It's tougher when you're stupid. -John Wayne
Appreciate 0
      06-14-2018, 02:33 PM   #14
jcrane82
Trust me....I'm an engineer
jcrane82's Avatar
79
Rep
91
Posts

Drives: 128i 6MT Sport, E36 M3 Sedan
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Elkhorn, WI

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Booey1979 View Post
What does radial play mean (talk to me like a 2yr old).
Here is a cross-section of a steering ball joint:



The heim joints in the stabilizer link is similar. The radial play is the clearance between the ball and the socket. If there is radial play, that could cause a clunking sound as the anti-roll bar is loaded and unloaded.
Appreciate 0
      06-14-2018, 03:19 PM   #15
Booey1979
Private First Class
4
Rep
126
Posts

Drives: 2010 128i m-sport BBK 2piece
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Ventura, Ca

iTrader: (0)

Ahhhh wow you guys rock. Ok I got a lead now! Hehe. Iím glad I reinspected the car yesterday. That was the only thing I felt off when I inspected it.
Appreciate 0
      06-15-2018, 08:00 AM   #16
Mandinca
First Lieutenant
97
Rep
353
Posts

Drives: 2008 E88
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: CT

iTrader: (0)

Half an hour job once you get it on the stands. Unless you put the left side on the right, and vice versa....although why anyone would do that is beyond me....

Seriously though, I think most are universal but the OEM's are left and right sided, as I found out.
__________________
2008 E88 N54 135i / Cashmere Silver / Beige leather / VRSF catless DP's / BMW Performance Suspension / Whiteline inserts / Aluminum charge pipe and aftermarket BOV
Appreciate 0
      06-15-2018, 10:11 AM   #17
Booey1979
Private First Class
4
Rep
126
Posts

Drives: 2010 128i m-sport BBK 2piece
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Ventura, Ca

iTrader: (0)

I got one on amazon already. Same price as ecs turning but free shipping.
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:54 AM.




1addicts
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST