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01-26-2022, 12:33 AM | #1 |
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Drives: 2011 135i 6MT
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Location: Wisconsin
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Path of upgrades
Hi yall,
wondering if my fellow 1ers could shed some light on my current dilemma... So as of right now I cannot make up my mind on how I want to continue to upgrade my 1er because I am a broke college student... The car: 2011 135i m sport 6mt n55 Current Mods: BMS Cold air intake VRSF aluminium charge pipe MHD stage 1 tune VRSF catless DP For the summer I have new apexes wrapped in Michelin ps4s coming too. My plans for the car are to roadtrip a little, hit some autocross event, and maybe a track day if I am feeling up to it. Oh and the car is my daily... So far I have 3 major ideas in mind: 1. LSD, looking at the Mfactory or Wavetrek based on preliminary research. I noticed some issues in winter with having an open diff on snow but overall for driving and putting power down. Also the slight sound of a beefy dif seems insane to me. Im guessing about $3000 after parts, labor and diff. 2. Suspension, looking at Ohlin r/t + camber plates, ect. I feel like doing suspension might end up sucking me into a whole of more parts, m3 control arm, new bushings ect. Im guessing around $5000 after everything but probably would drastically increase. 3. I'm way to over my head and need to chill with my addiction towards modding my car.. I have only had it for about 8 months and love every part of it but maybe I'm overthinking it. I just need someone with reason to guide me. Before these major mods I hope to instal a FMI for stage 1+ and because in looks sick but haven't gotten around to it yet. Any information on the topic and a voice of reason would help, Thanks!! |
01-26-2022, 07:20 AM | #2 |
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#3. Maybe not over your head but - yeah you have a pretty sweet car with some nice mods and no grounds to complain. Just keep up with the maintenance and focus on school (with the occasional burst of fun of course).
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01-26-2022, 09:45 AM | #3 |
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Drives: 2008 135 blk, blk, step
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2017 AMG GTS [0.00] 1994 Porsche 968 Coupe [0.00] 1977 Mercedes 450SE ... [0.00] 2008 135 [8.00] |
Car modding is fun. My mods are listed in my signature pretty much in the order I added them.
If you plan to keep you car, have spare cash, etc modding is not such a bad financial decision. If you are not in those situations actually the smarter option is to try to find an already properly modded car to buy. As you'll see, modded cars practically sale for less than unmodded cars. Another issue you'll run into is with mods often you create other issues you have to work out (rubbing, rattles, etc). Wheels to me give you the best cosmetic bang for your buck, and they can be removed to get back part of your money. Most everyone agrees that replacing the rear subframe bushings is a critical mod if you are working on the suspension, so I'd be sure to integrate that into your plans. I'd go with whichever LSD costs less.
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Injen, RR OCC, MadDad Whisper, donut spare, 19x8.5et43fr 19x9.5et45r Volk LE37's, rear fenders rolled/pulled, PSS4S 225/35fr 255/30r, KW V1's, AR coated catless dps, Cross strutbar, CF grills and license plate holder, iCarbon diffuser, ETS black anodized FMIC, M3 control arms, Quaife, ER chargepipe, ForgeDV's, Topspeed Custom Tune, V3sims, Braille, Andrey_GTA rear hub mod, Ebay Mstyle front bumper and performance style side skirts.
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01-26-2022, 08:02 PM | #5 |
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Oh, even though I basically suggested leave it alone - definitely do the CDVC delete as it's called. There's a restrictor inside a small piece clipped inline with the clutch fluid. If it's not already gone, it needs to be.
After that the RSFB's as mentioned are good to get rid of. It'll be near a grand for a shop to do it but you can DIY for not too much. Assuming that you have the tools, time, place, and so on - but it sounds like maybe not. |
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01-26-2022, 08:16 PM | #6 |
N55 E82 DCT /// N57 F10 Daily <--
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Welcome to the club. I bought my '11 135i DCT about 8 months ago as well.. I too have been going crazy with spending and I don't care.
The List: BMS Intake BMS Charge pipe BMS hard pipes BMS Oil catch can BMS diff brace 1-step colder plugs 3.5bar map sensor VRSF 5" intercooler VRSF DP Berk mids Berk street exhaust MHD 2+ xHP transmission tune + Replaced hoses, gaskets, waterpump, upgraded bulbs, tints, etc I am going similar route from here, helical LSD and Bilstein B14s.. I bought the car with x1 wheels, need to look at specs and fitment before deciding on future wheels and tires, I have lots of tread left on a set of Michelin PS4s. I have a '15 F10 diesel, gutted, tuned, coded, hybrid turbo, IC, DP, m sport, vented 32-way comfort seats, LED adaptive lights, heads up display and I like driving the 1 series more. Spent 1/4 the dollars. Oh well. |
01-27-2022, 09:53 AM | #7 |
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Drives: 2011 135i 6MT
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What does the CDVC delete do? I haven't heard of it...
Also I appreciate all the replies |
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01-27-2022, 10:20 AM | #8 |
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Sorry, typo, meant CDV. Clutch delay valve. There's a restrictor in a piece to supposedly smooth the engagement. No one that is an enthusiast likes it.
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209440 |
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Marcinj114.00 |
01-27-2022, 10:29 AM | #9 | |
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Quote:
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01-28-2022, 01:06 PM | #11 |
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"broke college student". Wow
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Marcinj114.00 Papa Popov315.00 |
01-31-2022, 02:34 PM | #12 |
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Drives: 2011 135i 6MT
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02-13-2022, 02:07 PM | #13 |
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Drives: 2010 128i 6MT Sport Pkg. 18"
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Well, for me tires are always first so you've got that handled with Apex/ PS4S. The clutch delay delete is cheap and transforms the clutch engagement. From here it gets expensive so take it slow. If you don't track the car/ bump the power you can stop here and have a nice driving car. If you continue, the rear subframe bushings make a big difference, taking car of the rear end looseness/wiggle (either Whiteline 2 pc. or M3). Stock shocks/struts are not the greatest. Bilstein or Koni are good upgrades. When you can afford it a LSD is huge, especially with 135 power. I did a Wavetrac last year and the difference coming out of a corner is in another league. There's lots more ( see my garage list) but there's no need to go all the way down the rabbit hole to have a nice driver.
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