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02-06-2018, 02:46 PM | #23 | |
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As i said, cold startup is just one part of the decision which oil you go for, the normal temp and extreme temp (both depending on your conditions) must be considered. |
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02-06-2018, 02:51 PM | #24 | |
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02-08-2018, 02:20 AM | #27 |
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Take a good look at 10w-60 in cold weather, then tell me that you want to use that oil in cold start ups/cold weather conditions. Choosing the correct oil is a very simple thing to do, i do not understand why people just say "i use what the dealer recommends" and your conditions are different (just be sure that is BMW long life and you are fine). |
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02-10-2018, 06:29 PM | #28 | |
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02-10-2018, 06:47 PM | #29 | |
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02-10-2018, 09:41 PM | #30 |
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In Summation:
The first number, found with the W, indicates the relative COLD TEMPERATURE viscosity, measured in freezing conditions. 0W flows fastest cold, 5W is a tad slower, 10W is a thin syrup, 15W is a tasty syrup, etc. Generally, if you live in a climate that experiences temperatures around or below 20 degF, a 0W oil is gonna be best for you, and will offer the best cold start protection (flows faster, fills those lifters quicker). If you never or rarely dip below 30 degF, a 5W oil would offer more protection than a 0W, but either works fine. If you never or rarely dip below 40 degF, 10W is a great choice, offering better protection immediately at start-up, and 15W if you're on the warmer side of things. The second number, without a W is the relative OPERATING TEMPERATURE viscosity. The higher the number, the better protection this offers at high loads, high temps, etc. However, higher viscosity also means decreased fuel economy, and a greater amount of parasitic (right term?) loses in the engine. -20 offer great economy, but little serious protection; -30 is what nearly every manufacturer recommends now; -40 is on the thicker side of things, and is usually recommended for high performance applications, but reduce fuel economy; -50 offers the greatest protection, but is the most detrimental to economy, and is generally the most expensive. For this number, it's almost always best (for the engine's longevity, at least) to go with the thickest viscosity you can find. For the economy-minded individual a -30, for the spirited-driving enthusiast a -40, and for the racers among us a -50. I'm not a total expert, but I do understand the physics, and the basic principle of engine lubrication (more is better). I'm open to answer basic questions, and Engineering Explained has a great video on this, as does Gears and Gasoline on YouTube (fantastic channel, deserves your subscription!). By the way, I'm running a 0W-40. Cold starts are fine (no lifter tick), and it feels great when warm, and doesn't seem to mind light track work.
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02-11-2018, 04:33 AM | #31 | |
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You are correct there, trouble is dealerships will recommend and use only 1 oil weight no matter the climate conditions or your driving style. I lived in Dubai for 20+ years and they use 5w30 on BMWs, Porsche, VWs and some Ford models. I do not see that oil surviving 50c summers and lows of 35c during the night. That oil is great in winter over there, where 10c lows and 25c highs. I remember running a 0w-40 in summer there, when i checked the dipstick after a spirited drive, the oil was as thin as water, oil pressure was at bare minimum (1 bar at idle) and oil temp easily hit well over 130c. Would never run that oil on even track days there either, yet the dealership would not run anything different. Dealership can run whatever they want "strictly" and most of the time the local conditions are well outside their recommendations, yet when you get a new car you are stuck with what they recommend due to warranty reasons. |
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02-11-2018, 07:13 AM | #32 | |
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02-11-2018, 11:15 AM | #33 | |
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02-11-2018, 11:19 AM | #34 |
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Dackelone10538.50 |
02-11-2018, 12:44 PM | #35 | |
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German Castrol oil...
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When I switched to German made Castrol RS Edge 0w40, a LL4 rated oil(which is backwards compatible to LL1) I was shocked at how much quieter my engine sounded on cold start - in the winter time. This was in January/February 2010. There was far less metallic tapping from the engine's lifters and the oil temps were almost two needle widths cooler - driving the same way on the Autobahn here. I was sold. Since then Castrol stopped making that oil... so today I run Castrol FST Edge 0w40 oil(LL1 rated). And I always change my oil twice a year or at ~5K miles - which ever comes first. I generally change my oil in the Spring(when I take my car out of winter storage) and again in late summer(a few months before going into winter storage. The cost of oil can be quite high over here in DE... but you can find a 5L jug for 44 euros. Mobil 1 on post sells for about $8 per quart... so its a wash in price. I do feel better running Castrol in my car. Asking which oil is best is like asking which religion is best. There is no answer... just a ton of "opinions". The above is my opinion on what oil to run. Dackel
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02-11-2018, 12:54 PM | #36 | |
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He also shows you how oil affects your driving style, which is key regardless of what weight you think is right. Example shown in the video, you can not take a factory GT86 with 0w20 and track it in summer. |
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02-11-2018, 02:25 PM | #37 | |
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In the late 1990s, early versions of the S62 were known for having a loud VANOS system. These engines were originally running the same Castrol 5W-30 (pictured) that served as BMW's mainstay for many years. I've been told that right before the slight redesign which resulted in a quieter VANOS on 2001+ S62 V8s, BMW changed the oil recommendation from 5W-30 to 10W-60 TWS to quiet the system down. As far as I know, the S54, S65 and S85 have continue to score rod bearings years after the change...even after BMW enacted a recall and redesigned the bearings themselves. Keep in mind the S54, S65 and S85 have always run TWS 10W-60. Old, but gold. Some more pertinent information: In doing some research, I've discovered that the new TwinPower Turbo 0W-20 is what's being used in BMW's new crop of B-series engines; B38, B46 and the B58, the latter of which replaced the N55. The N55 left the factory running 5W-30, but the new recommendation for the N55 is now 0W-30. I'm guessing the discontinued M TwinPower Turbo 0W-40 would've been a decent choice for the N55 as well. Last edited by tock172; 02-11-2018 at 02:31 PM.. |
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02-11-2018, 02:38 PM | #38 | ||
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02-12-2018, 03:00 AM | #39 | ||
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02-12-2018, 07:07 AM | #40 |
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Everything you wanted to know about oil (or don't) is on this site.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com They even have a forum - w/ a thread on Dack's favorite German Castrol - https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...8643/FAQ_-_GC_(_German_Castrol_)#Post718643 And even a thread about why NOT to run the Shell Rotella T6 full synth that I used to run in my Suzuki GSXR-750 racebike. Hint: Shell R-T6 is high in phosphates. Good for engines, bad for catalytic converters. Race bikes (and big diesels) don't have them. Oh and since I changed my oil every 4 trackdays it made sense to buy the cheapest good oil avail. For the e82 - I run what my Indy uses. Castrol. Same as Dack.
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02-12-2018, 07:33 AM | #41 | |
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http://rotella.shell.com/products/sh...eavy-duty.html |
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02-12-2018, 07:51 AM | #42 |
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On cold startup-that would be -15F, my N52 was not a happy camper. I found out why they sell thinner brake fluid, too. My brakes were very touchy, and my clutch felt like I was pushing it through molasses, which I was! Thank goodness I had removed the CDV.
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02-12-2018, 08:58 AM | #43 | |
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It is not a religion. Just data and facts. I think you are missing my point about cold viscosity. You pick the viscosity for the operating temp your car sees, that is the second number. In my case, that is a 40 weight. At 100C, the Castrol 40 weight has a viscosity of 13.5 cSt. My car runs the oil normally at 140C so, lets just say at the slightly higher temp it is 12.0 cSt for arguments sake. https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/4ABA633F17A143FD80257AA90053665B/$File/EDGE%20Professional%20European%20PDS_July_2012.pdf So, ideally, I want even the cold viscosity to be as close to that as possible. Even the thinnest oil I can think of, the newer 0W16, has a viscosity of 37 cSt at 40C. http://www.docs.citgo.com/msds_pi/C10241.pdf Normal starting temp is below 40C so will be even thicker. So even one of the thinnest oils you can get has a viscosity nearly 300% higher than what my car wants at operating temp. That is why I say it is impossible to be too thin at startup. This is why all car companies are switching to 0WXX oils. I would not be surprised if they don't come out with a new, even thinner spec for cold temp. Not sure what they would call it, -5? And agreed on the bobistheoilguy. If you want to talk oils, probably best place to do it. Last edited by MightyMouseTech; 02-12-2018 at 09:15 AM.. |
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02-13-2018, 02:26 AM | #44 |
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0w oils tend to be made from higher quality base stocks.
There is nothing wrong with running what the manufacturer originally specified from the day it was born. There are also many market regions in the world with similar operating conditions as yours. The local BMW head offices may not specify the same oil either. My opinion is that this change has been driven by modern tighter emissions regulations, hence the 'FE' designation for this 0w30 oil. By making 0w30 applicable to 'old' generation engines such as the N54 and N55, the dealership also saves money and floor space from by needing to stock fewer oils. I don't know about the US but over here, dealers do not seem to need to use genuine BMW oil. As long as it is LL01 for petrol, LL04 for diesel it seems. Aside from the M engines needing certain viscosities of course. |
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