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      04-23-2019, 04:58 PM   #1
vincefreeflyer
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Hi everybody,

I don't like that ruberry feeling with the rear train since i got the car (almost 2 years), i run with JB4 since 8 months and it's worst !! It's like i drive a drag race car but i "only" got above 360/380HP with JB4 .

So i've disassembled the rear subframe of my 135i to make the usual modifications :

Hydraulic ramps to lift the car :


Ultimate grip




Come on baby !




My program :
- Subframe bushings : Strongflex https://www.strongflex.eu/en/e81-e82...553526639.html
- Solid bearing rear toe arm : https://www.ebay.fr/itm/1-Series-E82...UAAOSwGq5cLlwD or https://www.ebay.fr/itm/06-12-E90-E9...cAAOSw3bBceZOl
- M3 rear guide rod
- Shock absorber + coils
- Andddddd LSD !!! either i look for a m3 auto diff with shafts or i'll install a quaife or Mfactory one ...

Now i have some questions :

I don't know what suspension kit is the best for price (less than 1400)
KW V2? KW St? Billstein? Koni? H&R?

Replacement of the Sway Bar or not ?

See you soon for more pictures
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      04-25-2019, 07:18 PM   #2
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2009 BMW 135i  [4.25]
If you're not set on coil overs, I've been a huge fan of my setup with dinan springs from a 335i with bmw performance shocks. Great for getting rear weight transfer, but still has good dynamic handling on rough twisty roads. I changed a lot all at once though.
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      05-01-2019, 10:22 AM   #3
vincefreeflyer
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BMW performance shock? have you a link? Cause i have the M suspension and in my opinion this sucks
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      05-01-2019, 10:32 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowbudgethero View Post
If you're not set on coil overs, I've been a huge fan of my setup with dinan springs from a 335i with bmw performance shocks. Great for getting rear weight transfer, but still has good dynamic handling on rough twisty roads. I changed a lot all at once though.
I recently just installed Dinan springs (with Koni yellows) and I'm pretty happy with the improvement. Body roll is significantly reduced, though not completely gone. I may add a front/rear sway bar in the future.

Also running full M3 rear subframe bushings and front M3 control arms. It's definitely getting better
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      05-01-2019, 11:16 AM   #5
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I'm going to do a minor detour/hijack here since there is such good experience participating in this thread...

When dropping the subframe where do you disconnect brake lines?
Are the brake line pipes actually attached to the subframe?
Do you plug the ends and with what?
How to avoid loss of much brake fluid?
I assume bleeding is necessary after reconnecting.

Asking because I need to tap out the mounting holes for the rear arb bracket and need to drop the subframe a good bit to be able to do so.
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E82 / Ver Red / Blk Boston L / BMWP Springs w/ Koni Yellows / M front control arms / M rear guide rods / AT / Sport seats & steering wheel + paddles
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      05-03-2019, 02:39 PM   #6
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Dropping subframe will requier you to disconnect the middles lines. Hold the brake pedal to the floor with a wood block or some shit and brake fluid won't drip out.
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      05-03-2019, 04:48 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traf View Post
Dropping subframe will requier you to disconnect the middles lines. Hold the brake pedal to the floor with a wood block or some shit and brake fluid won't drip out.
thanks.
So the metal pipes are not attached to the subframe? I was just afraid of lowering the subframe and snapping a metal pipe.
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      05-04-2019, 03:49 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gjm120 View Post
thanks.
So the metal pipes are not attached to the subframe? I was just afraid of lowering the subframe and snapping a metal pipe.
The middle lines connect the body hardlines to the subframe hardlines
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      05-04-2019, 09:08 AM   #9
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When dropping the subframe where do you disconnect brake lines? on the left in front of the subframe
Are the brake line pipes actually attached to the subframe? yes you got metal line for the right caliper
Do you plug the ends and with what? with wood sreweded in the thread
How to avoid loss of much brake fluid? you can't
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      06-06-2019, 08:31 AM   #10
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hi guys, here arre the news.

I installed Strongflex bushings on my rear subframe.
It seem to be goods bushings they got aluminium inserts.

First i extract the old bushings, for this i do custom tools :




here the rusty subframe :


I don't like it so i did a paint job :




Front bushong are in 2 parts so easy to install! But rear are a pain to engage


So i did another custom tool :


And finish the job like this :




Next time i'll replace TOE, Camber and trailing arms with adjustable ball link

- https://www.ebay.fr/itm/272049012994?ul_noapp=true
- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOR-BMW-3...53.m2749.l2649

In 2/3weeks, parts are on the road

After i'll do coilovers and M3 front arms.

Last edited by vincefreeflyer; 06-06-2019 at 08:42 AM..
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      06-06-2019, 11:08 PM   #11
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You clearly don't have bad salty wintery roads where you live My subframe has rust patches all over.
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      06-21-2019, 05:24 AM   #12
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here we are :

i received the ball linked adjustables arms :


I was looking for an "non-expansive" LSD but not cheap too
I got it !!! M3E9X LSD baby !!
A guy who got a wrecked M3 sold his complete rear axle so i bought it last week.


I'm just disappointed to get this now because i ordered arms and bushings one month later... If i get this rear axle 1 month before i saved precious time and money ... But i have also a good setup

But i'm unsure, does i use my 135i modded rear axle or the M3 one? Or i can use some parts of the rear M3 one (like lower camber arms).

In both case i'll use m3 LSD, m3 halfshafts, m3 sway bar on the final project

Here are some pictures of the 2 rear axles :





and here sway bars comparison :
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      06-21-2019, 08:16 AM   #13
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Should have done solid subframe...
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      06-21-2019, 09:56 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
Should have done solid subframe...
for the bushings?
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      06-21-2019, 10:56 AM   #15
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Good thread 🔥
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      06-21-2019, 03:04 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vincefreeflyer View Post
for the bushings?
Exactly
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      06-22-2019, 06:57 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWWorld View Post
Good thread 🔥
thank's buddy
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      06-22-2019, 07:01 AM   #18
vincefreeflyer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
Exactly

not sur, i'll never go above 500 hp and those polyurethanne are a lot harder and not hollow than stock ones. This is a lot of difference !
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      06-22-2019, 07:24 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vincefreeflyer View Post
not sur, i'll never go above 500 hp and those polyurethanne are a lot harder and not hollow than stock ones. This is a lot of difference !
It's not a power issue. The 2pc poly are easier to install but that's about it. When it comes to suspension, use rubber or metal.
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      06-24-2019, 03:07 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
It's not a power issue. The 2pc poly are easier to install but that's about it. When it comes to suspension, use rubber or metal.
Well, subframe isnt exactly suspension related, more structural i'd say.
PU is good enough, i had PU before i switched to metal, both are fine.
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      06-24-2019, 09:09 AM   #21
vincefreeflyer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
It's not a power issue. The 2pc poly are easier to install but that's about it. When it comes to suspension, use rubber or metal.

Really? Look at the first pictures of this topic, a press is required to install those poly

And yes subframe is more structural than suspension
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      06-24-2019, 01:51 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vincefreeflyer View Post
Really? Look at the first pictures of this topic, a press is required to install those poly

And yes subframe is more structural than suspension
The typical replacement for PU subframe bushings is from Whiteline, which are two piece both front and rear. No press needed for install! That's prob why previous commenter mentions this.
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